k00laid83

Oh, another tip for putting the engine back in, It took me a short while to realize I had to "jack up the back of the car" to help the tranny input shaft go into the Pilot bearing.

 

Well good to know. I didn't realize I had to do that. Thanks for the tip!

Oh, if you have the GS tmic it will fit great.

 

I have two of them. One on each car.

 

It's taken me over 16 years to get that post #. I have learned a lot from here.

 

If you get a chance click on my "click here link" in my sig. good pictures in there, I have reposted some of the pic' at the end.

 

16 years is a long time. I'm glad to that the GS tmic will be a good fit. So far being on here I've learned a lot. Honestly, I'm glad I just dove into putting the engine together myself. I'll make sure to take a look at your pics.

 

I am guessing you placed that oil filter to avoid debris getting into the oil cooler? Just reminding to keep the filter off when priming the engine. I think you know that already.

 

Yes sir! I'm trying to get the engine sort of sealed off. Thank you for mentioning that I will need to remove the oil filter when I prime the engine. I think I missed that part. I'll make sure to follow your instructions once I'm at that point.

Remember to test fit the tmic before you drop the engine in. Takes a couple minutes and at least you know it should mate up easy when the time comes.

 

That is if your still running the OEM style tmic.

 

Engine does look nice.

 

Oh, BTW, this was my 25,000th post.

 

I'll make sure to test fit my grimmspeed tmic before I drop it. Thank you for the suggestion.

 

Thanks for the comment on the engine. It's almost there! I just need my new injectors so I can slap on the intake manifold. Clutch after that and the engine can go back into the car. I think I might just sand down my engine bay this weekend. Maybe I can paint the engine bay this weekend, if not it'll be the next. A fresh engine bay is sounding super appealing to me right now lol.

 

Oh, BTW, 25,000 post....sounds like a post hog hahaha jk. Honestly, I always see you and mostly everyone on here post constructive and helpful information. So, thank you for always helping!

Update!

 

Nothing exciting. I installed my new oil cooler and new coolant elbow hoses that go to the oil cooler.

 

 

 

Since my rear timing belt covers are brand new I figured I'd get new front covers as well. I originally tried to piece together a used set but they weren't in the best of shape. I ended up painting the center timing cover with interior flat mat paint and I just didn't think it would last. So, I decided just to pull the trigger on a new front set to match the rear covers.

 

 

 

 

 

I'm going to try to install the exhaust manifold, up-pipe, and new turbo this weekend. I think I might get side tracked installing the rest of my black interior on the LGT. Either way the exhaust and turbo portions are next for the engine.

Yeah. Setting up the gap correctly is very important.

Is your car a manual?

 

I just used the gapping tool that came with my timing belt guide. I just set it today.

Did you set the correct gap on the belt guides on the upper corners ?

 

Not yet that's something I still need to do. Luckily, the timing belt guide came with the gapping tool.

Tiny Little Update:

 

Well I decided last minute to throw on my Company 23 Timing Belt Guide. I must say besides my experiences with their tools. Which I might add are very high quality and have made my life easier. Their timing belt guide is a quality piece. When I was taking apart my old engine I noticed that my car didn't have the timing belt guide. I decided to pick up this timing belt guide because it came with hardware and because it was Company 23. I'm not disappointed!

 

 

The lines on the belt won't line up unless you rotate everything a lot of times. IIRC my gear marks were off just like yours after engaging the tensioner. I think I turned the crank a little more and they lined up just about perfect.

 

 

Thank you sir. My timing was timed exactly as yours. Thanks for helping very reassuring.

Don't worry about it; you're fine. I am surprised you're planning to do final torque on the cam gears after installing the belt. I don't know that it's wrong per say, but I've always done it before installing the belt.

 

I've seen other videos that do it that way. I guess it's so the cam gears have another way of being held. Either way I'll have the wife hold the company 23 tools in place while I torque the cam gears to spec.

 

yeah, you're fine. I can't remember which guy said it, but the double marks won't exactly line up due to the AVCS. In the end, I always check the number of teeth between the marks as per FSM. Check that and I bet it is fine.

 

Yep everything lines up after turning the engine several times. I also posted on one of the Facebook groups and they also mentioned that it was fine.

 

The belt has a odd number of teeth so it hits the cam gears in a different position every time, to even out wear on the belt.

 

I think the service manual say's to rotate the crank a number of times, I think its 4 to check the timing marks. But that is also on a engine that has 105,000 miles on it.

 

That explains a lot. I'm just glad that I did it correctly.

 

I appreciate everyone's input! Thanks again everyone.

Update

 

Well I got the timing belt on and did the first step torque of 22.1 ft lbs for the cam gears. I still need to torque down the cam gears by degrees. So, I've been following another build watched videos on YouTube and followed those videos instructions to the tee. Well I got all of the timing stuff situated and lined up. But when I was turning the crank so the tensioner kicks in I noticed that my timing marks are off by a mil. I would say a hair. Then the timing marks on the belt won't line up to the marks on the cam gears like it did when I initially installed it. I guess I'm just worried about making sure this part of the build is done right. With all of the money I've spent I just want to do it right. So, I come to you guys for your guidance because this is my first Subaru and I had to do a rebuild right away. I'm second guessing myself. Any help or if I need to correct it please don't hesitate in responding.

 

Here's a pic of belt all lined up and matching all the marks on the cam gears.

 

 

Here's the pic after I turned the crank.

 

 

These are pics of the cam gears all lined up after turning the crank several times.

 

Driver's side AVCS:

 

Driver's side exhaust cam gear:

 

Crank gear:

 

Passenger side exhaust cam gear:

 

Passenger side AVCS:

 

Passenger side showing the double marks on the cam gears:

 

Driver's side showing the double marks on the cam gears:

 

Last shot of the engine timing belt after turning the crank another several times.

I just picked up these parts through Flatirons Tuning. By far the best prices for OEM parts. Just make sure you make a big order to avoid paying for shipping.

 

https://www.flatironstuning.com/

 

19 / 13581AA050 / SEALING-BELT CVR FR / 1 /

20 / 13594AA000 / SLNG-BELT COVER, 2FR / 1 /

21 / 13583AA260 / SEALING-BELT CVR RH / 1 /

22 / 13583AA270 / SEALING-BELT CVR / 1 /

23 / 13583AA280 / SEALING-BELT CVR / 1 /

24 / 13583AA290 / SEALING-BELT CVR RH / 2 /

25 / 13584AA050 / SLNG-BELT COVER, 2RH / 1 /

26 / 13597AA020 / SEALING-BELT CVR / 1 /

27 / 13597AA031 / SEALING-BELT CVR / 1 /

Huh. I did not know the STI radiator was different than ours. But I will look into the one you are installing.

 

 

I have also installed the cylinder #4 mod as well. Also installed an AOS from Radium. Happy so far. I see you have the Grimspeed one.

 

I've read that the STI radiator was an upgrade. Maybe I'm assuming that. The car came with a Grimmspeed AOS but the paint is chipping off. I've thought of sanding it and throwing a coat of paint on it. I've thought about the IAG AOS system, just because the current one is an eye sore for me.

Got up this morning and just hand tightened the new AVCS cam gears and exhaust cam gears. I also installed the GetaDomTune cylinder 4 cooling kit and new timing belt tensioner bracket on the engine. I should have the cam gears torqued down and the timing belt installed this week. I think I'll also start working on my engine bay and get it sanded down for the new paint. I have to get that done ASAP before it gets any colder. It's just been super smokey outside to work. There's a ton of fires going on right now.

 

 

 

I see. Will look this up. The stock set up is great as long as you do not consistently push the car into boost for long period of times. But if it's hot outside (100F+) and you need to stay close to 0-5 psi for, say, a minute, then cooling temp starts to climb. At least, that's what happens in my case (Southern Utah).

 

I thought of picking up a stock STI radiator but I figured now is the time to upgrade. I live in Northern Nevada near Reno, so similar weather to Utah. Yea, definitely look into that because I was going to run the thicker radiator but for a daily and weekend canyon runs I think the 2 row will be fine.

Yeah. I remember buying these little washers for the timing belt covers as well as the foam which you stick on the back of the covers. Honestly, I don't know why Subaru does not sell the covers with all of these things already.

 

 

Which upgraded radiator are you going to install?

 

You know I thought the same thing. It's frustrating because I installed them thinking they were good to go lol.

 

I was thinking of running a mishimoto 2 row because if their warranty. I have their 3 row in my 240sx and it cools great. I've also thought of the koyo n-style rad, I'm not to sure. I do know I won't run the 3 row I've read some people have fitment issues.

Update!

 

Well I've started working on the car again. I've been collecting and installing parts here and there. I discovered that when you buy new rear timing belt covers they need these little small washers where the bolts go through. Needless to say I felt very stupid! I'm just glad I caught it before I had everything put together. While ordering those new washers, I went ahead and ordered the rear gaskets that are glued to the back timing covers.

 

Here's a pic of before I found I needed those dang washers:

 

 

While ordering those new washers and rear gaskets I decided to also order the IAG top feed TGV deletes, IAG V3 top feed fuel rails, Deatschwerks DWR1000 Fuel Pressure Regulator, Company23 Timing Belt Guide, GetaDomTune Cylinder 4 Chamber Cooling System, Pro Clip - Angled Dash Mount, a few fittings for my top feed line kit I'm putting together and just a random little hoses that need replacing.

 

 

 

 

New parts going on slowly:

 

 

 

The only few things left I need are a new clutch fork and pivot ball, ID 1050X injectors, an AEM 340LPH fuel pump, an Accessport, clutch, upgraded radiator and a tune. I'll be sanding down the engine bay this weekend to prep for new paint. I think the Safari Gold color from the Datsun 280z will pop. Pictures of the color are on page 4.

Aisin TSK004 I think is the correct part # for the timing belt most of use now day's.

 

Or if you just need a belt, go to Advance Auto Parts and get a Dayco belt. I used that the first time back in 2008.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replacing-timing-belt-94193.html?t=94193 post #9

 

That's the right part number. I just checked my timing belt kit label.

Yeah. Keep us posted.

 

I'll make sure to do so.

I did not prime my brand new oil pump and it did give me issues getting it to build up pressure. What I ended up doing was remove one of the bottom allen bolts from the pump and used a siringe with a tube to squeeze engine lube into the pump. I made sure no spark plugs were installed and no oil filter installed. Reinstalled the bolt, then cranked the engine and it did not take long to build up pressure (oil started to pour from the oil filter location).

 

Thank you sir. That's something I'll keep in mind when I start the engine. I'll make sure to maybe get oil through that allen bolt you were talking about. I think I'll try both when the time comes.

Never heard anyone having to pack an oil pump with Vaseline to get it to prime on a Subaru. I know the subaru can sometimes have an issue with an air bubble between the filter and the pump; which is why Flatirons Tuning will tell you not to fill your oil filter ahead of time. Why don't you just prime the system manually with a pressure bleeder?

 

Hey man that's a great suggestion. I really didn't want to remove the oil pump since I've already installed it. I usually never put oil in my oil filters when installing. I'll for sure try this method.

 

So you just fill the engine with oil like you would normally and just use that pressure pump to run it through the engine?

Well it's been a long time since I've posted. I pretty much stopped working on the legacy. I stopped since the person with the dealer license I bought the car from was slow playing me on getting me a title. I bought the car back in February and just got the title on Friday, August 7, 2020. Long story short I had to get the police involved and place a complaint with the DMV's compliance department. Well now that I can move on I can really start working on the car heavily again. Time to get the rear of the car converted to black and get the engine put together. I was watching a YouTube video of someone having issues getting the oil pump to prime. They ended up having to tear everything back down and packing the oil pump with Vaseline. So, I'm thinking since I haven't put the engine timing pieces together that now is a good time to redo the oil pump and pack it with Vaseline. Then get the timing and everything else put together. I should have more pictures in the future.

no worries. The specs on the NGK site show exactly the same thing for both. But there is a slight price diff

 

If I'm being honest I was a bit confused since summit racing had so many options that said fit the LGT. I was looking at a bunch of threads on this and these plugs were listed as it fitting. I wanted to pick up a set of G-Power instead of the V-Power. But I've had great luck with the V-Power's on my sr20det. I prefer copper plugs over iridium plugs personally. I'm lucky that I'm 30 minutes away from summit racing and the salesman recommended these as well.

Or in english, the plug gap should be .027-.029" if you running higher boost.

 

The OEM exhaust manifolds will be fine. Put that money somewhere else.

 

Oh, remove both banjo filters.

 

Perfect, I gapped them to .029. - 030 per some other forum posts.

 

That's what I'm thinking, I'll stick to the OEM exhaust manifolds. I have a couple of buddies running them and they're putting down good power.

 

Oh I made sure to remove those dang banjo filters. When I removed one of them I couldn't even see through it. The one behind the timing belt still has the filter inside the banjo bolt. I'll make sure to remove them when I clean the bolt up when I'm reinstalling the line.

Did you adjust the gap those spark plugs? They don't have the correct gap since they are part number -11 which means a 1.1mm gap and you want a 0.7-0.8 mm gap.

 

If you want the OEM plug, you need ngk ILFR6B which is part number 6481 amd comes gapped at 0.8mm out of the box.

 

Yes sir! I made sure to gap them. I always make sure because when I buy spark plugs for my sr20det they're never gapped correctly.

 

I appreciate the heads up man!

I took the long weekend to get the heads put on the new engine block. It took a lot longer than I expected since I was being extra careful not to mess things up. Overall, it went smoothly. Now to just put things together quickly and repaint the engine bay. I spoke with my tuner and they recommended to me that I go ID 1050x top feed injectors and get rid of my TGV's. Per their recommendation I'll be going that route. Also, I keep going back and fourth if I should pick up equal length headers prior to getting my car tuned. I might just stick to the stock exhaust manifold since from everything I've read says they're great out of the factory. While putting this thing together I realized how satisfying it was to see everything go on the new engine.