k00laid83

Snail is building a 1000hp lgt sedan for a local customer. If it's in the shop, get pics. Has custom lightweight windows, stripped interior, cage, etc

 

If I can my car done and get it there for tuning before they finish it. I'll make sure to get pics.

 

I've talked asked Travis @ Snail a couple of questions. AP required.

 

Yea very true AP is required with them. I'll let you know how the tuning goes with Snail performance.

Just ordered the last of my fittings. I picked up 90 deg. vibrant fittings. As we speak I'm currently 3d printing -6AN vise clamps. I'm also going to print a AN Vise Clamp that can do -3 to -32 fittings. First half of the -6AN vise clamps, this print seems very legit.

 

 

You can also checkout Snail Performance in Sacramento. That's what I'm going to end up doing. I would have gone with someone local in Reno, but I just don't trust them. Plus, Snail Performance is going to send me a break-in tune before I protune my car.

Why did they use a different one for this car? Same engine as far as I know except the turbo, no?

 

I wish I knew why because this makes it more difficult to find deals. I wish Subaru would have just kept everything the same. As far as I know the engine is the exact same. My grimmspeed tmic is the exact same except the air splitter is different. I guess I'll have to buy a new grimmspeed air intake.

It won't fit. The maf sensor is completely different. In theory you could convert to that style, buy a new maf, buy a new connector and then repin. That's all assuming the maf sensor works in the same manner as our current MAF though.

 

That's what I ended up figuring out. For $60 bucks I thought it was a hell of a deal. I've been looking for an adapter plate but can't seem to find one. I guess I'll just have to not buy it since I don't want to change out MAF. I'd rather keep it original. Thanks for the heads up!

I was doing a bunch searching and read that the 08-14 wrx/sti aftermarket air intake uses a different maf sensor than our LGT's. I can't seem to find a straight answer, and I've been going through here and facebook groups and can't find the information I need. I found a good deal on an injen CIA for an 08-14 wrx/sti. Just trying to figure out if I should buy it or not. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Update:

 

I hit up my local Summit Racing today and picked up almost all of the AN fittings, nylon braided fuel line, and a deatschWerks fuel pressure gauge. I figured I'd stick to the same brand fuel pressure gauge as my fuel pressure regulator. I was originally going to go with aeromotive everything. Only thing left is to buy (7) 90 deg. AN fittings and my pieced together fuel kit will be complete. I must say the vibrant fittings are very nice, and it's awesome that their fuel lines are E85 safe. I keep thinking about doing the cobb E85 kit. E85 isn't readily available where I live and I don't think I actually would need it.

 

 

 

 

Fixing little things like that mean a lot to me, good job

 

Thank you sir! Those little things add up overtime and make the difference. Now I have to hit up the local pick n pulls and find good condition rear door window moldings for the mean time. I think I'll replace all of the window moldings once I paint my car. I think new would be the way to go in the long run.

UPDATE!

 

Well it's not really an engine update. I've been holding off on buying more engine parts until after the holidays. Christmas is a very expensive month for us lol. The Legacy has been sitting untouched for a couple of months. I was feeling bad for the old girl and decided to check out my local pick n pull and found the same colored Legacy GT. I picked up a the hood scoop, passenger side mirror, the passenger rear door panel, tow hook cover and the seat switches since mine was broken.

 

While the car has been sitting I was trying to clean her up some more. The previous owner thought it was a good idea to rattle can the hood scoop black. The owner didn't know what he was doing and didn't scuff the paint. I decided to clean off the old paint and I think I did a pretty good job but the rattle can paint job ruined the original color. The hood scoop I picked wasn't perfect but it's in better condition than my original. I also need to figure out how to take apart the mirror so I can use my original mirror lens since it's in better condition than the new one I just got.

 

Old Hood Scoop:

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Hood Scoop:

 

 

 

 

Old Passenger Rear Door Panel:

 

 

 

New Passenger Rear Door Panel:

 

 

 

Old Passenger Side Mirror:

 

New Passenger Side Mirror:

 

 

Old Tow Hook Cover that looks like it got rattle canned as well:

 

New Tow Hook Cover:

 

Also, this might work. Azek decking had an issue with fading and they sent out a product called DeckMax. It re-catalysized the material restoring the color. I want to try this on plastic parts. I am about to order some and see if it works. It'll melt plastic if left on too long so...

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look into it for sure.

I haven't tried it in this exact application but, I have really good results taking a heat gun to plastic components to refresh their appearance. It does wonders for scratched composite decking which is how I got started heatgunning things.

 

Well I have spare timing covers maybe I can try a heat gun to them.

Damn I wish I changed my timing covers, the new ones look so good.

 

I've been replacing things as I go. I agree fresh timing belt covers really bring things together.

08+ sti, unless you can find an 07 jdm forester sti

 

I keep getting mixed reviews some say the 06-07 sti's are the best and others say 08+ sti. If I run the 08 sti rear diff. I'll need spec b rear axles correct and an LGT auto driveshaft correct?

Hi everyone I'm looking into buying a wrecked sti donor car. I'm just wondering what's the best year STI to 6 speed transmission swap into our cars? My car is already a 5 speed but since I'm building my engine currently I'm starting to consider this swap. I see so many options but I think if I got a donor car I can part out most of it.

without access to a good machine shop, build costs add up.

 

IAG offers a built long block with upgraded heads for $9000 - https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-Performance-600-Long-Block-Subaru-WRX-STI-p/iag-eng-4010.htm

 

That's a good point!

or you could buy a long block and get the heads /preinstalled?

 

That option is a lot of money. When I bought my Type RA short block I paid $1,840 plus shipping. When I looked at that option used long blocks were going for $4k from a dismantler and then imagine getting one from a builder. For the OP do what best works for you buddy.

Hi,

 

I'm planning to do a pre-emptive rebuild and was wondering if I can get some advice.

 

For the short block, I'm planning to just order a stock type RA block. I will import this because Subaru Canada won't sell a new short block. I spoke to a few dealers and they indicate that they only exchange rebuilt blocks and save the new ones for warranty work. For those who have shipped a block to Canada, any issues with Fedex mangling the delivery? Are the blocks generally well packaged?

 

For the heads, I'm debating if I should simply order new castings and valves as needed. The issue I'm facing is that I don't have access to a good machine shop locally, and the cost of shipping the heads two ways will be more than half the cost of new castings.

 

For the guys who have done this before, could you advise if the valves are selective fit to the guides or can I just order new valves and new head castings and only need to deal with lapping and lashing the valves. I was also wondering how often used heads have cracks that make them unsuitable for rebuilding. I'll be using B25 heads.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Why don't you just order your short block and have it shipped. I got free shipping and it came in a box from FedEx. I recommend ordering from flatirons tuning.

Small Update:

 

I picked up a new to me 2012 sti dome light and 2012 sti map light in black. As well as a 2015 sti sunvisors in black. Can't wait to get rid of the two tone tan interior. I'll be doing my headliner in black and using SEM landau black interior paint for all of the plastics. Should really make the car stand out. I'm going down madrig's and BagRidersJohn's foot steps. I should have the dome light later on in the week. I'm planning on doing madrig's map light air bag indicator mod.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/darker-side-legacy-black-upper-trim-262063.html

 

 

 

 

BagRidersJohn's sunvisor mod:

 

madrig's airbag indicator mod:

Hi Everyone,

 

I was doing a bit of research and I know this is going to be a touchy subject. I'm wondering what everyone thinks is the best motor oil. I was running Rotella in my engine before it took a dump on me. I've been doing a lot of research and I've heard some great reviews on the Amazon's Full Synthetic and Costco's Kirkland Full Synthetic. I know everyone is going to say you get what you pay for but I'm just wondering everyone's thoughts. I was thinking once I had my engine fully broken in I'd switch to Mobil 1 full synthetic. I watched a few videos where the Amazon brand was pretty much on par with Mobil 1. Just wondering what everyone thinks.

 

Amazon vs Mobil 1:

 

Costco's Kirkland Full Synthetic:

Updates might take a while gentleman. I'm having surgery on Monday and will be limited on what I can do. Which totally blows!! Hopefully, I can recover soon and get this car on the road.

is your taupe driver seat good looking?

 

i need one if you are planning to peddle it?

 

I still have all of the original tan interior except all of the seats. When I bought the car the guy who sold it to me switched out all of the tan seats to the black leather seats. If you need anything else please let me know. I can for sure ship things out as long as the buyer pays for shipping.

Wow, that's a lot of work. Looks good.

 

It's definitely been a lot of work. I'm feeling it today lol.

Update

 

This isn't really an engine update but it's more of a car update. I finally finished switching my interior to black. I'm using the front and rear seat belts from a newer legacy. I hope I don't run into and airbag issues. Everything plugged back in like the original tan ones. All of the airbag connectors all plugged back into the newer ones. Only extra connector I had was an extra connector that's on the loop hole that bolts to the 2005 Legacy passenger seat. I ended up bolting that part to the body instead. I'm just glad I got the interior done, I hated the tan interior. Hopefully soon I'll have this car running! Well on to the pics!

 

How the interior looked before I switched out door panels. In this pic you can see the black carpet I switched to. I didn't have a pic of how dirty the tan carpet looked. My OCD couldn't leave that dirty carpet in the car. I got lucky that I found a legacy with black carpet at my local pick n pull. The two pics in the section shows how the interior sat for a while. Tan interior with black carpet and black seats.

 

 

 

 

 

Then I picked up the rest of my black interior and JDM double din conversion:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well today I decided to hit up my local summit racing. I bought everything to remote locate my prosport oil pressure gauge sending unit. I was trying to do the same thing I did with my 240sx. I was thinking of buying the ProSport Remote Oil Pressure Sender Install Kit but I just didn't like the oil pressure line they use. While at summit racing I picked up -4AN 20 inch black coated stainless steel line, a female 1/8 NPT to male -4AN adapter, and a male 1/8 NPT to male -4AN adapter. I already ordered my male 1/8 BSPT to female 1/8 NPT adapter from amazon, but I should have thought and just bought everything from summit racing. Either way I think this black line is going to blend in great with the rest of the engine.

 

 

I'll add that the filter is left off only long enough for oil to pour out where the filter resides then put back on, crank again and you should build oil pressure pretty quickly.

 

Thank you sir!