shralp

Yup, motor replaced in May of '22 and then the turbo in '23.  Haven't dug into all the comments but wonder what "motor replaced" means... 

Saw this yesterday… https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2005-subaru-outback-6/

Only advantage is the car feels like it gained 25HP with the short 1-4

I know that pain  did not pay attention to it in my ‘08 Outback daily and got bit in the ass last summer. End result was a built 5 speed with shorter 1-4 OEM 5th from ZF Design in Colorado. Wasn’t cheap tho….

Nice! Was watching that auction! Welcome back.

Nothing here that a can of Seafoam and some JB Weld couldn’t handle! 

Well that just sucks, sorry to hear  Surprised to hear since Killer B has always had a pretty sterling reputation in the Suby community. Have you contacted them to see what they have to say? Still wouldn’t suggest OEM due to past issues that are well known. Did run a Moroso pick up with no issues for many years and only swapped it out when I swapped in a full IAG pan/baffle/pick up kit.

14 hours ago, legacybt said:

What model Setrab is that?  Looks like a great fit

its a Series 9 20 row.  Yes, the fit is great!

Saw this with my morning coffee if anyone is looking for a Spec B 

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2007-subaru-legacy-spec-b-7/

15 hours ago, Gex said:

Another wet track day last week.  Still managed to do one damp session on my new slicks.  Look at that meat!

Nice pics! What are you running for tires/rims in these shots? Fattest I can get to fit is 9” with a 255/40 on my track set up

3 hours ago, m sprank said:

Its a tricky balance.  You dont want to "soak" the intercooler with water as this will block air flow.  You want maximum airflow.  But, at the same time you are trying to cool the aluminum fins to increase overall efficiency.  So, evaporation is necessary for thermal transfer.  

Ii did not read the post and must assume you are trying to maximize potential within a rule set.  Otherwise track car and TMIC dont mix.  Damn rules.  Methanol injection into the intake post turbo is also a power gain (that requires tuning).  Unfortunately, I have experienced too many leaks/clogged injectors/crapped out pumps, etc. to recommend a system. 

I knew there would be a lot of debate on this   I guess I'm choosing the "middle way" as I was never able to really determine which route was best in the Water vs. Water/Alc arguement.  I can definitely say that the IC isn't getting "soaked" to the point of blocking airflow, its getting a ton of air jammed thru it on track.  When I get back to the paddock the IC is clean as a whistle and completely dry, obviously plenty of heat under the hood to manage that.  I don't think that the STI nozzles can pump out enough water to impede airflow anyway.  I see that the Flat Irons tuning guys are running the AEM meth kit on their Pikes Peak car but are using it externally to mist their front mount.  The AEM is certainly more complex than my set up and uses high pressure nozzles that really atomize the spray much more than mine do.  For me I wanted to try something that would cost minimal cash, (STI nozzles and a Vibrant Performance washer bottle).  

Actually no rule set on the car, I could run a FMIC for sure and probably should at some point because it is a dedicated track car.  Always lots of looks in the paddock from other turbo folks, "whoah, your running at top mount?!"    They really look at me funny when I tell them I'm currently running a 16G as well!

6 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

Nice work, and as you say, best for a track application.

My only question is why bother with any alcohol in the blend for the TMIC mister? The specific thermal capacity of ethanol is ~1/2 of water, so you're providing less cooling the more alcohol you mix into the blend.

Given the ethanol isn't really going to help your track cars' windsheild stay a whole lot cleaner 20 minutes at a time, why not just go 100% distilled water for maximum cooling? I guess it will prevent the tank and pump from freezing, but surely it's easy enough to just empty it in the winter?

Purely curious. I just figure for all that effort, you'd want maximum cooling/L sprayed into the IC.

I assumed that the evap potential of the alcohol/water mix would be beneficial but maybe not? Definitely out of my area of expertise. Front windshield washers are no longer hooked up.

See my post from 2020. I decided to use my rear wiper sprayer as a TMIC mister on the track car since I have no need for it. I’ve been using it 3 seasons now with a water/alcohol mix. Would not suggest this for a daily tho… 

Out of the two coil overs you’ve listed I’d definitely lean towards the Fortune’s. While still a bare minimum choice in my book, they have upped their game in recent years and are producing an acceptable kit now. Still not on par with KW, Ohlins, etc but priced accordingly to reflect that. Based on what your doing with the car, I’m in the “nice struts with springs” camp as well. Are you sure you really need coil overs?
 

would not suggest Whiteline for ball joints. I went thru two sets and shockingly trashed each in just a few days at the track. Thought it was an anomaly but after the second set went, (WL did replace them for free), I threw up my hands and went back to OEM. No problems since. Why a part supposedly designed for “motorsports applications” can’t make it through a few track days is beyond me

4 hours ago, KZJonny said:

But, BUT...

How will you listen to the first 6 Fast and Furious soundtracks with no CD player in the car? 

 

Oh man totally forgot about that.  Screw it, I'm out!! 

Gotcha I’ll do some digging around. Don’t want to go JDM with it just to drop a little bit of weight but hoping I can just pull the CD player module out (where all the weight is), and then re-install the faceplate 

Hey all, now that I'm towing the track car I won't have long drives to/from anymore so I'm considering pulling the CD player, etc out of the dash.  If I remember correctly from a number of years ago, its a fairly chunky unit and I don't need that weight in the car now.  I do however still need full HVAC controls.  Anyone know if I'll still have that functionality if I pull the stereo guts out? 

Your set up is probably a bit different compared to my Killer B header but for me the proximity to the backside of the fan enclosure, (plastic) was getting roasted and starting to deform and melt.  I've got the 12" long DEI piece in place to keep it away from the closest parts of the fan.  Maybe not an issue on the street car but on track it was a problem. Not pictured here but also put DEI heat sleeve on the first 4" of the 02 sensor starting right at the sensor and going up into blue wire.  Too close for comfort and I don't want to toast the O2 prematurely.  Heat sleeved that black hose that you see running above the header as well, (pictured in the first pic but not in the last).  Also might want to gold tape your middle timing cover on the lower third.  Mine was getting discolored and thermally hammered from all the heat loading now that there are no OEM shields to protect that area. 

Meh, I know it stings but OEM all the way. Never had good luck with aftermarket

Perfect thx!

Hey all, looking to tap into the hot lead for the cigarette lighter in the console cubby between the seats so I can install a switch for my Cool Shirt set up.  Amazingly I don't have a multi-meter, (maybe that's because I hate all things electrical!!).  Anyone happen to know off hand which wire is hot?  Black or Yellow?

Casopolis was our go to back in the day.  I see his site is still up but yes, your fitment is listed as out of stock.  Might be worth contacting him tho to confirm.  I've had his dual gauge 52mm in my '05 for years. 

https://casopolis.wixsite.com/cubbypods/subaru

2 hours ago, Pleides said:

It's something that is a potential theft magnet being stuck on the dash or wherever and the coolant temp isn't super important to me as the dummy gauge does a good enough job of letting me know when things are working as intended. I leave the AP in the armrest. If it did oil temp I might consider it but the hardware isn't there for the AP to read.

Yup I can see your point for daily driver use.  I don't even have my AP plugged in in the Outback, its just sitting in the rear storage caddy in case I need to take it out to see if something has changed or to  trouble shoot.  The track car rarely, if ever, is left unattended in a public place so its easy to run the AP full time.  

I do like having real time water temp, particularly on hotter days because I know where the car likes to run.  It was nice to see real time data when I ducted in the gaps around my Koyorad that were created when I pulled the AC condenser from the car.  So much air was bleeding around the radiator that it needed a block off.  I was able to see a nearly 8 degree drop in water temps on my AP just by adding those. Never would've known that from the OEM gauge.  I also kinda like having the gear position window selected as well.  There have been a few times when I'm learning a new corner or trying a new race line option that its nice to confirm what gear I'm in.   

32 minutes ago, Pleides said:

For me I just wish we had a boost gauge and oil temperature sensor. Former for troubleshooting and the latter for knowing when I can step on it. The Audis I drive at work almost all have oil temp sensors and it takes far longer than the coolant getting up to temp for those to even register the minimum temp on that gauge of I think 140(?) F, like roughly twice as long in the winter. That's with 0W-20. Not sure how a modern engine with such thin oil gets up to temperature compared to our old EJs but just food for thought. I always wait until the coolant has been up to temp for at least a couple minutes before I seriously flog the car. 

Why not just monitor boost and water temp with your AP?  

Sorry to say, $549 for a set of coilovers means you’re getting warmed over dog crap…