AZP Installs

February 18, 2019

Honestly, I'd be happy with a good rev-matching automatic 8 spd, like the Aisin in the Lexuses or the ZF 8HP in everything else. I really like radar cruise control. It takes a lot of the fatigue out of a 90 mile per day commute, especially when I hit stop-and-go traffic on the highway. Manuals are incompatible with 0-mph radar cruise control.

Not likely to happen. Subaru doesn't have the leverage to purchase those units unfortunately.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

February 18, 2019

Sets the depth that the shaft can go into the top hat. Basically an adapter for top hats of different thickness. You will use the adapter. Without it the top hat would not be seated to the shaft.

+1

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

February 14, 2019

Lol.

The people that would be drawn to an XT model will not want to go anywhere near a CVT and the people that would tolerate a CVT or dont even know what one is will not want to drive or pay for an XT.

Good job morons!

There aren’t many if any AWD Grand Touring cars with manuals so I don’t see that as a deciding factor.

Mike

February 13, 2019

Mike,
I remember taking my 3.6R to you for exhaust and suspension work in the end of 16 and you guys were PHENOMENAL! My biggest concern is the CVT still has the issue of 300wtq and going boom. The 2.4DIT with a few bolt ons (appropriate intercooler, correct downpipe and headers...in the same of economy and not showing up the STi) would easily hit that. The question is can we make the transmission withstand that power.

Thanks for the kind words!

I'd look at it this way. The Ascent is heavier and has a 5K towing capacity. The stresses that you will see from the weight and towing likely will give the Legacy XT a decent margin for error. Add in an external fluid cooler and don't launch it, likely will help extend the life of it.

Will this car be gutted out and become a club race car? Not likely. An upgraded downpipe with highflow cat, an AP with a stage 2 tune on it, upgraded suspension though are all within the realm of possibility to make it a fun grand touring car imo.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

February 13, 2019

I would be interested if they could couple it with Eyesight, but the R&D that would need to go into it to support the MT likely makes it cost prohibitive.

The Legacy XT will be an awesome grand touring car, the CVT will net it great milage and overall it will be a phenomenal car. I would work on petitioning Cobb to start development on the 2.4DIT tuning. That is something I could see happening realistically and would benefit lots of folks.

We at AZP will of course be closely supporting the Legacy XT community!

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971)

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

February 13, 2019

Old thread but the IAG AOS isn't always straight forward and the OPs installer likely was leaving leeway for any issues they might encounter. We charge 4hrs for the IAG AOS if it's standard, so with the strut bar and other items I could see it hitting 4+ hrs.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971)

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

May 31, 2016

Anyone have any issues with the rear springs? I have a 2 finger gap in the front but in the rear I can fit 5 fingers.

Springs haven't settled yet but this still seems way too high.

I have the kit with h and r springs sku: 1140 1671

The lower perches are likely inverted on your struts. This pushes the springs up too high....

-mike

July 30, 2015

Looking for a tech at AZP.... E-mail to Paisan@AZPInstalls.com

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

December 2, 2014

So why has no one done the swap with a 6mt yet?

It's just not a smooth swap unfortunately. So far there has been no evidence that the swap can be completed 100% without some kind of issues lingering which is probably why it hasn't been done on a large scale.

5MT->6MT is relatively easy and we've done it several times at our shop for customers. Our customers though are pretty picky so none of them have wanted to do the 5EAT->5MT/6MT swap due to the Dash and Cruise issue.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

November 29, 2014

The problem with not having cruise and having the odometer with an error is an issue that as a professional installation can't be something that goes out the door unfortunately. I have yet to see a professional installation done yet on an 05-09 from AT to MT.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

November 26, 2014

On my car, new bushings made 0 difference for noise, vibration or harshness and an entire world of difference for steering precision and control.

Yup we install the AVO or WL ones on soccer mom's cars and they never complain about any increase in NVH...

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

November 25, 2014

Meagan... Lol.

Mike

November 24, 2014

After alllll the other work I've just done, I also have this problem.. I probably shouldnt have cleaned all the gunk off haha.

So the coils come off but plugs do not have to come out? They are straight through the valve covers?

You should remove the plugs too.

You should also use a razor blade to clean the surfaces that the gasket and liquid gasket material will mate to. This isn't something that should just be cleaned a little, we are talking eat off it clean.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

November 15, 2014

You begin by setting all 4 corners to the "middle" setting. Half way between "hard" and "soft". Then you drive the car. Take notes and make small adjustments from there. Always keep notes of the adjustments made and the response. Make small changes not large and adjust 1 strut at a time or 1 side or front/back. Just dont make too many changes or you wont know what worked/failed.

Exactly what mikey said. We have been working with our Spec86 Test Car for an entire race season here in the Northeast and at each event we've made 1 change to the car so we could document and learn what each component did to improve or not improve the car. There is a lot of testing that is done in R&D. Most folks don't understand that or respect it.

This is why when Mike or I or other folks on here mention things like R&D and QC in regards to "cheap" brands of products, its because they haven't had the time or money or put forth the effort to do R&D and QC on their products.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

November 11, 2014

why forge no matter which one you go with??

As long as you are going in there may as well get forged ones. The non-forged ones generally lead to Piston Ringland Failures...

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

November 6, 2014

Matched sets are the only way to get them to be perfect.

The advantage of having adjustability is you could throw them on a shock dyno and tune them to match. That's why non-adjustable are sometimes not good in that manner. Non-adjustable's are good in that you can't adjust them so you just have to live with them.

I would put way more faith in Koni or Bilstein than Tein or BC

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

November 5, 2014

Remember every one of these dampers is different. 1-1/4 on the left may not be the same as 1-1/4 on the right even.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

October 31, 2014

Also whenever adjusting the settings, turn them all the way down and then up from there IIRC.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

July 8, 2014

so, i want to make sure im getting this right. to do this install all you need is the koni front inserts, rear strut assemblies, oem front and rear struts to supply all the oem parts listed and springs? and for all the oem parts required such as bump stop, dust guard, top mount, conical washer and spring seat, can you take these off your stock struts and re use them? Im guessing it wouldn't be ideal but could you use oem springs in this set up?

Don't need donor rear struts, but need the hardware from the ones on the car.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

May 31, 2014

I'm thinking luck played a large part in them being well-matched. Doubt they're spot-on, but the HDs seem much better than that Spec B Bilsteins.

Remember, every part in our vehicles from the manufacturer came from the lowest bidder!

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

May 29, 2014

Thanks Mikes. I always forget that Konis aren't matched. Bilsteins OTOH, seem to be really well matched for non-adjustables and very consistent, day-in, day-out.

Bilsteins aren't matched either. No Sub $3-5k dampers will be. Bilstein might have a better chance of them being matched though or you may have gotten lucky.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

May 29, 2014

That something I always thought about. What the downside if they aren't the same? Would we feel a difference?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The average street driver probably won't feel a huge difference but definitely fiddle with each side to your liking just like front to back, side to side as well.

The only "matched sets" you see out there are on higher end coilovers used for racing. One of our goals this year is to get a shock dyno so that we can actually start rebuilding and revolving dampers for folks. This will allow us to actually sell matched sets of dampers normally reserved for race teams we feel everyone should have access to that level of damper...

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

May 29, 2014

Guys a few things about the "settings" on dampers....

1) They are not going to be the same from side to side. There will be a difference even if you turn them to the same spot because Koni doesn't sell "matched" sets of dampers meaning that they will have different valving side to side.

2) The front and rears will also have different settings in terms of stiffness. For example 1 turn from soft in the rear is not the same as 1 turn from soft in the front.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

May 16, 2014

If the nubs aren't inside completely, when you put the weight/stress of a car on them, they will start to jiggle around and you will have variable camber.

I would just get an insert and do it right before it becomes a PITA later on.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

May 15, 2014

I checked and the the bottom of shock does bottom out before the bump stops on the shock itself hit the oem housing that was cut off unfortunately.
So I guess I will need another donor front strut to install? Damn!

Yup Yup.

-mike

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