Bax004

9 minutes ago, Jeremie said:

The o-ring gasket we were talking about is orange, so should be good there. 
 

I think it’s safe to say we found the cause of the mis-fire, now I’m afraid to ask what could have caused this? I’ve only pulled the plugs from 2 & 4, you can see why I stopped. The ground and center electrode on 2 are practically touching.
 

There’s a total of 375 miles on the plugs. I checked the gaps when they went in (to make sure) and they were all within spec. When the car broke down there was well under 1/4 tank of gas, low enough the gas light was just about to come on. I was making a hard left turn onto a freeway on ramp, maybe 20 ish thru 3/4 of the turn which I then floored it coming out of the turn (car coming the other direction using the same merge, I would’ve had em). As soon as the turn straightened out is when is when everything went to shit and I stopped. 
 

my theory, correct if im wrong, although very rare and unlikely, I possibly sucked up air in the gas tank which shot into cyl 2 and caused some sort of detonation…..

 

I’m not sure what the cause would be, it could’ve been dropped before and re-gaped to make it look like it wasn’t damaged and doing so could’ve weakened the metal and caused it to close up while under load. But I would definitely replace it with a brand new one just to have more confidence. Good find! And that wasn’t saying you dropped it, I was saying it could’ve been dropped by someone at the store or someone previously bought and returned it.

On 7/17/2022 at 7:17 PM, Jeremie said:

Update 

 

went thru all the fuses both inside and under the hood, not a single one blown. Dropped in a new battery and car maybe and extra second or two of cranking, but it started and idles. I only let it run a couple of seconds before turning off, it’s idling pretty rough. Engine is shaking. I can hear a hissing, but not finding any vacuum leaks or disconnected lines. Almost sounds like the hissing is coming from the alternator (next on the list to check out anyways). In park and neutral, slowly raising the idle I get a flashing CEL at 3k rpm but goes away if I let off and rpm’s go down. Only code I pull is a pending P0302. When rpm’s did hit 3k, there was a rattle that started. I’ve heard that noise before, usually when car was in higher rpm’s - usually followed with P0244. When the car initially broke down merging on the freeway and I realized transmission wasn’t shifting from 2nd to 3rd I heard the same noise before letting off the gas (had pulled over and car died back then). 
 

Try swapping cylinder 2 ignition coil with another cylinder and see if the misfire moves. If that doesn’t give you anything then do the same test with the spark plug from cylinder 2. 
 

I just saw you already swapped coils and replaced plugs. I would still say do the spark plug swap just for shits and giggles. If that doesn’t result in anything then I would do compression and leak down tests. 

When I did this on my 07 they said there was no way to re-assign a new vin to the used ECU. Key programming was easy. That being said I had to mail a letter with proof of replacement to the DMV so when I go through emissions the vin miss match is allowed. Copying the tune of course can be done with any tuning tool, accessport or open source. I doubt a dealer would put anything other than the factory tune on it though if they did the swap, liability reasons.

 

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That’s weird! I plugged the new one in, my buddy connected the scan tool in and was done within 5 minutes. Programmed the keys, and vin # so it would match. I guess it helps that I’m good friends with someone there. I know most dealerships don’t want to deal with a used situation because either they’re scared and want you to buy new.

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Have you tried wiggling the battery terminal connections? I’ve had cars that “look good” on the terminals but still had just enough corrosion inside to cause an issue.

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UPDATE: I finally said screw it and pulled the trigger on a used ecm. Had a friend of mine that’s still at the dealership, program the keys and everything works great. No more check engine light. So it is possible to transfer ecm’s.

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I spent the weekend replacing the clutch to my 2009 lgt. Lesson learned, don’t buy cheap drivetrain parts.

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2009+ came with blue subaru super coolant. Zerex, peak, napa, and other companies have their blue asian variety.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NAFNABB53?

 

If you drained green out of your old engine, your radiator should be empty, and there should just be a little left in your heater core. Question is to mix what little might be in the heater core, if any with the blue that you should be using? Subaru makes it sound like it's okay to mix green and blue coolant

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/super-blue-coolant-mix-with-green-sllc.182330/#lg=thread-182330&slide=0

 

Still maybe just stick with green since that's what came out, like the stuff you posted..

Just an fyi- You can add blue to green, but not recommended to add green to blue. If you add anything to blue (besides blue) even water, it shortens the mileage interval. Anything added to blue cuts the replacement interval by at least 50%. If you have green coolant the mileage interval won’t be affected.

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wait, you want to change your ecm because of a P0032 code?? Thats the code for your front o2 sensor, I would start there. Unless your o2 sensor wires burnt out and shorted your ecm, I think your problem may be something else. Does the car start and run? I'm wondering how you came to the conclusion that its the ecm.

Yes I know what the code is for, I’ve gone through the test plan for it that’s why I’m concluding with replacing the ecm. Yes the car starts and runs, just doesn’t run the way it’s supposed to.

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All the weird stuff happens with my personal vehicles as well. What code are you having

P0032 - A/F sensor circuit high input.

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Also I think ecm failure is fairly uncommon

I’ve tried everything I can for the code that I have. And everything says “repair loose connection” and that’s at the ecm. I’ve done voltage checks, ohmed out wires in the harness. Trust me the last thing I wanted to do was deal with the ecm but that’s what it looks to be. But yes I do agree with you, all the years of being at the dealer I never had to replace one. Leave it to my own personal car, and not being at the dealer anymore for this to happen lol.

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Why do you think you need a new ECM?

 

How close of a part number you need can depend on what you can do from a flashing perspective.

 

There are two main things, one is the tune and the other is the anti-theft.

If you match the numbers, you probably don't need to flash the tune; but you do need to handle that the replacement ECU doesn't match the BIU or instrument cluster.

 

At a minimum you'll need to either have the dealer flash the eprom with your VIN, you will need to flash it, or you'll need to desolder the chip and move it over. Not all dealers will do it, and most that I have asked wanted $300 or more (I think it depends on your area)

The main reason I’m asking is because I found a 2009 LGT ecm that is literally 1 letter off from mine, the one listed 22611am96a mine is 22611am96b. Even the two big letters match, just that last character on the part #. And it’s also $200 cheaper lol.

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I found a used ecm on eBay that matches my part # and everything, but they want over $300 for a used ecm. Has anyone succeeded in replacing their ecm with a different part # ecm?

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Bump

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Welcome! Where in MD are you? Not sure why the harness wouldn't reach, but there could be a few possible causes of this issue. Did you follow the diag procedure?

Thanks. I’m in Southern MD. Apparently the borla header sensor spot sticks out a little further than others. I contacted my buddy that works for Subaru and he sent me the test plan, so I followed that. There were only 2 steps, checked resistance through the harness and checked voltage at the ecm. But my voltage readings didn’t seem legit so that’s still in question. I may try to take another crack at that when I get some free time and day light. What ideas do you have in mind? Any information would be greatly appreciated, I miss having my sport # mode lol (and cruise control)

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So I have a P0032 code pop up after I replaced my headers. The harness was tight and unable to reach the A/F sensor connection. So I bought an harness extension for the A/F sensor, installed it and cleared the codes. Start the car and code comes right back. Performed a resistance check from the engine bay main connection to the sensor and all wires checked out fine. So then I started looking into the ecm, performed some voltage checks and couldn’t seem to get any feedback for the results. (And I checked all fuses)

So now I’m around eBay for a used ecm. While there are used m/t gt ecms available, none of them match my part number. Does anyone have any input as to whether or not a different part number would be compatible?

Any information would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

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Most likely is residual from replacing the turbo. I had it happen when I rebuilt my engine. The reason you’re only seeing it during situations because when you’re loading the engine, there’s fluid built up somewhere and is then flowing on to the exhaust. I’d give it a week or two with driving and if it doesn’t go away then maybe check for an issue. Keep an eye on your temp gauge and your reservoir to see if any drastic changes.

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MD: Trying to find a used, unmarried AccessPort for my LGT. I’ll even consider a married unit if the price is right.

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Had eBay header for 4 years, ceramic coated before install, but recently discovered it's leaking at the passenger head.

 

Need to find a stock manifold since I've misplaced mine, or maybe buy another cheap one online. Looks like the bolts and flanges are rotten, gonna be a mess to remove.

I have my old stock headers just sitting, it's rusty as hell and the heat shields are crap but its yours if you want it.

I'll take a look at the links provided and read up. I appreciate everyone's input. Here is a link to the original thread on how all this started and the road that lead us to the timing belt. The car cranks and sounds like it wants to catch but never does. It did ONCE briefly when using ether but won't again since.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replaced-bad-alternator-now-car-wont-start-p0026-282050.html

 

Initially, I just want to reset the current belt once everything is aligned properly just to see if the car finally starts. If it does, then I will get a kit and replace everything. I feel it needs to be replaced because why else would the teeth have jumped if there wasn't something wrong with what's currently in place?

 

I didn't see a logout where I was told. Only on the bottom right. Lt me see if I can put up pics now. Before it just kept saying invalid file but they are jpg's so I don't get it.

 

Nope, no pics. Still invalid files.

With it starting briefly while using ether, that makes me think the fuel pump might be bad. Even with a tooth or two off the engine should still start, only thing it would do is cause the check engine light to come on. Can you verify that you're getting fuel pressure?

Unfortunately there isn't "one price for all" between different dealerships, every dealership has their own labor rate and flat rate time set. Before I left my dealership, they set a system to where every job was the same cost no matter the writer or tech working on the vehicle.

If you have to have the dealership do any repairs, I for one would look into getting your own parts. That could save you hundreds of dollars depending on the job.

There's a ton of information out there to where you could do these jobs yourself, its a matter of ability and confidence. But if you do find a tutorial, make sure you follow it to a T!

Also, ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK YOUR WORK!!!!

Yes but the rear fog is a two position switch of some sort on the stalk. At least in the jdm vehicles.

 

 

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Gotcha. Kvikken I'm thinking check the switch for any type of corrosion, and ohm the switch to make sure its making contact (or if you can find a cheap known good switch you could always replace to rule out the switch.) If everything there is good, then I'd start ohming out wires and connections.

Agree with Notorious, swap bulbs and see if it moves. If it doesn't move then you definitely got something inside of your drivers headlight.

I took my headlights apart after I bought my LGT (2009, bought it in 2018) there was sand and crap all inside of the housing (makes me think it was flooded at one point) after I got everything apart, I noticed the finish on all of the reflectors were chipping and no longer having that mirror effect. So I refurbished all of the reflectors, sand blasted and repainted. They still aren't the greatest but they are by far better than what they were when I bought it.

In your case, I hope its just the bulbs!