Aphex28

The stock sensor is in the coolant crossover pipe

You can tap the coolant crossover pipe, but that is much harder to get to. Most of the other lines are probably too small to use although you can Tee off the throttle body coolant lines and make your own housing for the temperature sender. But again, this is much more work than using the upper rad hose adapter.

Super cheap to get a new replacement. I just got it and it fits perfect

 

https://www.carid.com/replace/front-center-engine-splash-shield-mpn-su1228105.html

Didn't matter how many miles I drove or cycles.... car would not pass in Mass. They changed something as I used to pass all the time.

 

Interesting, I've had no problems with open source tunes in my cars

A little bit of a punch in the gut, but really things like that happen for a reason!

 

Also, I do agree, the FA's power delivery is much more refined. You can really tell the advance in tech and that part of it really makes me miss my 15 wrx, although I do not miss the Rev hang

i had a cobb AP v1. You still have to do a drive cycle to get all the monitors ready. that doesn't change. i used the torque app / BT OBD2 reader to view the monitors to ensure i had properly completed the drive cycle. stopping the p0420 code should not affect the cat readies monitor from being ready once a drive cycle is complete.

 

This. You could technically, if you wanted to, force readiness with open source software. But really you shouldn't need to.

I don't have a direct picture here, but mine is tee'd off of the line that goes to the BOV, if you follow the hose up through the engine bay, i tee'd it right there for ease of reaching it.

I bought the car modified so I'm not completely confident you'll have a similar line, but what is in my engine bay looked pretty OEM.

That is the most normal code that is disabled when going stage 2. Even the cobb stage 2 ots tune disables it. The code essentially means that the exhaust coming out of the cat is too hot(or something like that). Which if you're using a high flow cat, makes perfect sense since it doesnt work as well as the stock one.

 

This is why people use a pair of spark plug anti-foulers to move the sensor out of the direct exhaust stream. Some downpipes come with a donger thing to effectively do the same thing.

Installed a DIY Dual Catch can setup.

Made from a pair of $17 baffled cans from amazon.

 

I'd definitely be interested in modifying the process west piece to fit vs the AVO, but with a discount like this its definitely intriguing.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5926427&postcount=9

I contacted primitive today and they said they discontinued the 1/8" plate due to lack of interest but did say that a black friday sale is coming. I may just do that especially if it's a discount that's actually worth it (not 10%) Or something

Yeah the 1/8" is exactly what i want. But they only have the rally grade stuff, which are great pieces I know. But it's like using a full snowsuit when snow blowing when all i need is a sweatshirt and pants

Thanka guys. I got it crappy plastic oem one for 35 shipped from carid. But the stock one definitely rusted out before i got to me, but either way, i think im going to use a spare sheet of alumilite i have in combination with the oem one until i can find a 1/8" skid plate or something not quite overkill for my suburb dad mobile

I haven't compared their designs, mostly because I have no idea what the stock one on our GT's look like but does anybody have an idea if the OEM Skid plate from a 15+ WRX would match up to our setup?

 

I was under my new to me LGT for the first time yesterday and noticed the previous owner just went all raw dog and there sure were a lot of spots where it definitely hit the undercarriage and I don't want to take that chance even if it will probably be fine.

(Was removing the Invidia N1 exhaust that made my ears bleed and custom fitting some Nameless mufflers)

 

I already ordered https://www.carid.com/replace/front-center-engine-splash-shield-mpn-su1228105.html, but I want a piece of metal between the turbo and speed bumps.

See FA20 Skidplate here:

 

I mean I mostly don't want to pay 300+ shipping for a completely overkill (for my use) rally skidplate from Primitive if I have a decent OEM or cheaper solution available to me.

Def a premium, cold weather package, moonroof but no HK audio. The difference in working on a legacy vs impreza/wrx are interesting.

 

Even my 15 wrx didn't have the extra panels in the footwell, also the firewall on the legacy has sound deadening and padding on it that makes for finding access holes more difficult

Heyo!

 

Male, about to be 35 next month.

I have the most adorable 20 month old daughter and I'm a Solutions Engineer for Schneider Electric whom I've been with for 10 years now.

 

I'm technically an old school Subaru member, I joined NASIOC in 2001 right when I could officially start to drive .

I've had 4 Subarus, most notably a 2000 RSTi sedan that I had a hand in doing all the work in myself and took delivery of one of the first 2015 WRXs to come to this shore. The former I sold because I was tired of having such a highly modified car as well as driving around with so much worry about it.

 

The latter, because I thought we needed something not as sporty and something my wife could drive. This was a huge mistake and I regretted having only 2 pedals.

 

Either way, I just picked up this 2010 LGT 6 Speed

 

It's got Swift Springs, Katskin Leather interior, Invidia TBE (I'm changing out the CBE because this makes my ears bleed). and some other small things.

I'm going for an open source stage 2 tune in 2 weeks time and I'll having a build thread once I get started. But so far I've spent 5 consecutive nights in my garage

 

Ignore my messy workbench! I'm currently reorganizing the garage.

https://jdmracingmotors.com/en/subaru/

 

Really depends on what comes in their containers, but I'm sure you can make requests

I used http://www.siliconeintakes.com for a lot of the stuff for getting the FMIC kit to work on my RSTi

Is that the main thing that keeps those from fitting?

 

So in reality we'd need some sort of compressor outlet adapter that goes from the 2 bolt flange to a silicone pipe connector?

Just as a general question, I assume the GenV rom already exists in the DB as my tuner is confident that he can get my car stage 2 via open source no problem. But the existing rom doesn't have the same features available? Launch control, speed density, gear dependent boost?

 

I'm just looking for clarification as to the complete advantage of this. At least at Stage 2 levels I don't think it matters as much but for the more advanced builds I assume so