Aphex28
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Posts posted by Aphex28
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congrats! look forward to seeing it! Check into it's history and see if it's had it's block and/or head replaced. From what I've seen it's kind of only a matter of time. At least on the stock tune
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Ah ok. I'm going to do exactly this. But cmod closed their shop/webpage until they open up again
JK. I just bought all the stuff on Ebay. spent about $200. I'm just going to plastidip the ebay grill and see how it looks. I mean my current stock grill is plastidipped anyhow. Either way, if it sucks I'll just get it painted.
Just to contribute to the thread, some pics I took last week (Also posted in the wheels thread)
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That grill is perfect! Is that the C-Mod grill and you put an emblem in it? Did you have to get it painted elsewhere?
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18x8 +45 Enkei TSP-6 with 225/45 General GMAX RS summers.
Running 5mm spacer front and 10mm rear.
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That bolt should have a filter in it, did you replace that when you rebuilt?
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I would guess it is the BNR turbo seal. You are on the right track and that is how I would proceed. I would just make the lines don't crossed up and your sucking air from valve cover into the intake tube before the turbo.
Also does the BNR turbo need an oil restrictor (or a different one)? I had an issue on my GMC Syclone's aftermarket ball bearing turbo where I had a little too much oil pressure and it would leak past the oil seal. If I let it idle, it would smoke out the exhaust and the wastegate shaft would get wet with oil. I put in a restriction and went away.
yeah, I'm with him. Like I was wondering, especially since you're running that 18g (which I didn't realize before) it could be using a different oil feed specification. What you're describing is like when we were running the wrong oil feed restrictor on a GT3076 that we built.
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yeah mine definitely didn't really smoke at all after I rebuilt it.
Double check that you have the correct oil feed line banjo bolt. You could be dumping oil in through the turbo.
You could also have your PCV lines incorrectly run and are sucking oil into the crankcase.
Those are the first places I'd check.
Edit:
Also check that your turbo oil return line isn't pinched it could be pooling up in there.
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It's weird because it has the 08+ WRX flange. It's most likely a VF-40 or VF-52 and not a VF-39.
Unless they figured out how to get the wrx/lgt cold side flange onto the 39, but I don't know if they had to clip the wheel or not
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Mines! Heh i bought exel g rear struts in anticipation of changing all of mine next year. But this is much better
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Are the tophats also only 10k old? Or are those the originals?
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I replaced my oil cooler when I did it as well. Not necessarily something that is traditionally changed, but I didn't want to take any chances.
Also change all of the banjo bolts that have filters on them. They're on the AVCS oil lines, you can tell which ones have it as the bolt heads have a protruding dot on them versus the other banjo oil bolts are flat
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Do you attach this to the turbo, or to the intake pipe where the MAF is?
I take off the intake box and put that in the intake pipe
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I use this with my pancake compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0825WNGP3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uZ4dFb7236SBV
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DAM definitely starts at 1.0 after a reflash. That is definitely something i'd look into as well.
I don't think they're related, but definitely check for a boost leak first and foremost. If you have the stock intercooler and charge pipe, the section where those two mate leaked the most for me.
For the DAM, check your plugs, clean your MAF and get some good gas to start.
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really make sure that it's the ringland and not a burnt valve, which seems like it's a bit more common on these, before you commit to removing the block from the STi
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sometimes if I pass under a really high voltage power line the Sat Radio would cut out on my other/previous cars (2000 2.5RS, 15 WRX, 19 Kia Optima, 12 Equinox). I don't have it on this car though so I can't give you direct experience.
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So. I found it on a current Gen WRX, I can't find it on the legacy since I don't think we ever got HID's here.
84031FG000
I can't say for sure that it is the same, but I do know the control arm is the same part number.
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It looks like thats your headlight adjuster arm thingy.
Do you have HID headlights? That came stock? This arm adjusts how high your headlights are aiming depending on how much weight is in the back of the car.
Can you circle the part that is broken?
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shrug. Although I can't speak for the cars that came with Navi. My Kenwood android auto headunit was literally a 1.5 hour install, with a lot of that time spent playing with options
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I'm running an Invidia Catted DP, stock mid-section and a pair of Nameless 5" mufflers. I'm not sure you can get much quieter than this besides stock and I think it's quiet enough to not seem like a boy racer to my neighbors. On the highway, unless I floor it, I can't tell that it even has an exhaust which I like. But this is the minimum amount for a proper-ish stage 2 tune. (technically you can use the stock mufflers, but they really cork it up)
Here's a couple videos from this past week on my dyno tuning session and one interior clip
IMO though, if you really want it quiet, follow what FLlegacy said and have a shop build you one with some decent sized mufflers.
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Just use imgur for images and vids. Easy
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A new block (10103AC860) is about 1800 depending on your discount. I went that route since really that sort of quality control is hard to beat. Also the fact that i plan on never really going past stage 2 was in play since this is my dad-car. Any real internal upgrades wont really be used to their potential and be mostly wasted cost
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Definitely price check against Heuberger Subaru (https://parts.bestbuysubaru.com/Subaru_2010_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Premium-Sedan.html) They sell their parts online at 36% off.
I had the same issue as you. Burnt exhaust valve on #4.
I ended up just buying a brand new replacement shortblock from Heuberger along with a gasket kit, replaced all my turbo oil and coolant lines, turbo oil pan, lower oil pan, oil cooler, oil pump, filtered banjo bolts, O2 sensors, a couple ignition coils along with a lot of other associated gaskets, hoses and stuff. Spent about $3k there, and the another $1k on ARP head studs, head gasket, timing belt kit, spark plugs, belt, break in oil and other stuff I can't think of. Head work was about 800, but they essentially just cleaned and refreshed my heads, replaced 2 valves and replaced the seals.
Getting that new shortblock from Subaru has really helped me trust this engine more.
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Does it only happen when the car is sitting still and you turn the wheel or while the car is moving and you turn the wheel?
If it's while moving, I would say you have a bad center diff.
ohhhh yeah, forgot about that one. Hopefully it's just the ps rack
2011 Legacy GT
in Fifth Generation Legacy (2010 - 2014 )
Posted