Aphex28

In my doors, I actually put it on the outer skin rather than the inside part. So I still have access to everything. 

hehe. Yeah I decided to do it before I needed to pick my daughter up from school. Bad decision, but I did get it in with only a little time to spare. Do wish I could put her child seat in my miata to pick her up  

3 hours ago, creep_nu said:

did you just leave the top screw out? or did you work on getting it back in?

 

i've got an AC problem i'm waiting on parts for now, myself...just wondering if it's strong enough with only 2 screws to avoid having to put it back *in* using that flexy thing if i hvae to go that route

Yeah I got the screw back in. Anything worth doing is worth doing right...

 

Either way, I don't think it would work great with only 2 screw in. 

My method took me about 1.5 hours. spending about 40+ minutes just trying to reach the screw and turn it with the drill bit extension

 

72131AJ09A

ttps://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/HVAC-Air-Inlet-Door-Actuator/49280685/72131AJ09A.html

PITA to install. Either LITERALLY take apart the whole dash to get at the top screw. Or what I did was use a boroscope camera attached to my phone (To see the screw head) and a flexible drill bit extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0822K6GN8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to get to the top screw. 

Your best bet would be to find a crashed 5th gen GT and swapping over everything including the pedal box, clutch master/slave and wiring harnesses. Would be completely straight forward and you'd be best off getting the brakes from it as well. 

You may have more luck finding a H6 donor and you take the driveline from that (Although still stuck with an automatic)

Physically, the EJ255 from the 5th gen LGT and an 08+ STI are very similar. Both have dual avcs and the same shortblock with the only real difference being that the STI EJ257 gets a better exhaust cam (Which you can swap over)

Aside from that, the LGT has a 2 piece oil pan with an oil scavenge pump for the low mount turbo,  plumbing and a difference in how the engine mounts. The Legacy doesn't have a traditional engine cradle and engine mounts the Impreza chassis do. 

Yeah a boost spike like that at WOT may be telling of an issue with the wastegate. Could be too small, or there is a mechanical issue causing it to not open fully. 

Could be the boost control solenoid as well since that controls what the wastegate sees. 
Could be helpful to do some logging and see what the wastegate duty cycle is when you're overboosting. 

8 hours ago, computersoc said:

I believe my dust shield on the passenger side front is making noise and scraping something. Only happens at less than 10 mph and when braking at those speeds. Is there something I can do without taking the wheel off? Where is the dust shield? It's a constant problem every 2 or 3 years and does this.

You can try driving that corner up a ramp or curb if you don't have anything. getting under and pulling back on the dust shields on all sides might help. 
It could likely be a failing wheel bearing or just loose lugnuts as well. 

I know it doesn't solve your problem. But I got one from here for my GT while I waited for my Primitive Skid Plate

https://www.carid.com/2011-subaru-legacy-chassis-frames-body/replace-engine-cover-83727922.html

This is what they have listed for the 3.6R

Super cheap at $32 at my door in 2 days. 

 

I don't hear anything out of the ordinary. No bearing nose, no lifter tick. Make sure your oil levels are good and drive it.
What noise do you think you hear? 

dang! Tough break. But I'm happy the shortblock I sold you looked like it was in decent condition

You don't need to take any of the dash apart aside from the little kick panel by the driver's pedals. A couple screws and clips. I've run gauges and installed amps.

 

I don't remember which exact grommets I used, but there are a few that have plenty of space to fit things through. Poke a hole with a coat hangar or use a long pick(it's important to keep the hole as small as possible) and shine a flashlight from the engine bay and stick your head in your footwell and look up to figure out which grommet it is.

This hasn't taken me more than 15 minutes to run a wire, it's just a matter of effort really.

 

Although those cable glands are good, they're overkill and drilling the hole is more effort than needed. (I actually used those in some of my Industrial Automation projects, test beds and demos in MCCs (Motor control centers) panels and the like.

Oof.... good luck on the adapter install. That's something I'd like to forget I ever went through.

 

*shrug* I kind of assumed the Torque Solutions one is similar but the Kartboy one took me 20 minutes to do

 

https://www.kartboy.com/products/subaru-6-spd-arm-w-bearing

Facebook link takes me to an Ikea Sofa .

 

Also, did you figure out the engine mount situation with the STI transmission?

bump! still have them

Unfortunately, taking at least 1 wheel off is a requirement for NH inspection.

 

It's been 6 years since I've lived in NH, but I used to take my car at what is now North East Auto Imports (Used to be Granite State Dyno). https://northeastautoimports.com/ But I don't think they do it anymore since Granite State Dyno wasn't the primary resident.

The ej206 is essentially hot garbage. A huge valley of death in the middle of the powerband along with a huge rats nest of vaccum lines and fittings where especially with the age of them now will be brittle and leaking.

 

I don't think anybody has stayed Left hand Drive and been able to use both turbos. the Steering column, brake and clutch masters will interfere with that side's turbo and exhaust.

 

You can convert your car into right hand drive if you got a whole front clip, a plasma cutter and mig/tig welder, but the novelty of having a Right hand drive car in a LHD country wears off fast when it is really hard to make left turns and merge onto highways safely. But again, you do this to have an inconsistent powerband and pretty prehistoric engine in the car.

 

Onto the wiring: You may be able to make it work if you convert it to using a standalone ecu to take care of the engine duties. (This option you will not be able to plug into OBD-II and pass inspection.

 

 

Using a stock/merged wiring harness is quite a challenge that only IWire has ALMOST done to a point to where it can be inspected and driving on public roads.

The main contention is that the 08+ cars use the CANBUS network to communicate between multiple sensors and the ECU. If the harness that's being merged in can't communicate (I'm paraphrasing A LOT) the car's immobilizer and network will not work.

I go between Pennzoil Ultra Platinum when I can find it and Castrol Edge 0w40

Don't mind at all. I spent about 700 (I think) with the machine shop getting the heads cleaned and rebuilt. Although my short block wasn't blown or damaged, i don't trust the ej255.

 

It happened at 78k miles and really it's just a ticking time bomb to me so I spent another $4k on a brand new short block from Subaru, arp head studs, along with as many rusty things attached to the engine as I could think of. Oil lines, oil pan, oil cooler, coolant lines, timing kit etc. (I essentially ordered everything on the parts diagram)

Just as a note. I burnt the same exhaust valve and it looked pretty similar to yours. Albeit I drove mine for 10 miles after with no compression in the cylinder limping it to the shop so it was dirtier.

I'm decently local to you, and I wouldn't mind letting the short block I pulled when my #4 exhaust valve melted go for like super cheap). Like 200 or trade for parts. I did it due to the ej255 reputation for blowing ring lands.

 

It has like 75k made good compression before melting that valve and it actually still ran on 3 cyls, well as good as it could. Oil came out clean but either way, it could be a better platform for a rebuild

They're in NJ but but AZP Installs and Broken Motorsports do good work and are fair.

just the reply I needed fellow MA-hole So I need to get the part number associated with 44643*A as well?

 

Yeah I'm not really interested in the lower shield since I have the skid plate anyhow.

After warming up on a highway drive, on decel I'm getting a distinct heatshield rattle from my turbo. Mind you I have no other stock heatshields in place on the car, and I've seen what mine looks like so I'm 99% sure that's where it's from.

It only happens under load on decel. My throwout bearing is new.

 

So I want to replace the stock heatshield over the turbo, rather than taking off my rusted heatshield between the turbo and the block, I threw some paint on it and put it back on. This obviously was a mistake, but I'm thinking I want some sort of barrier between the turbo and the underside of the block. Right now my stock heatshield is hanging on by 1 or 2 bolts as the rest of it is just rusted off.

 

The previous owners of the car ditched the undertray and it shows. (I'm running a primitive skid plate now to protect it all)

 

I just want to confirm that these are the pieces before I order them:

 

the upper part (44652*A) translates to part number 44652AA930

 

does anybody know if this piece can be independently mounted? Or should I be getting the lower part pictured as well? As of right now, I only have a piece of the part number mentioned above, but it could be floppy because of the other missing pieces.

 

 

By all means, any other suggestions as to what I can do for some turbo heat shielding is welcome

hH a bit confused on what Legacy then. My apologies, I figured you had a Turbo engine. I'm not very familiar with the FB series NA engines