anarchyx34

Reckon these might work? They're 3/4" thick.

Snagged a double-din kit last week on Yahoo auctions Japan for $279 shipped including the JDM hazard switch and an i88 pigtail. https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n392470427 I installed it last night along with a Sony XAV-AX1000 head unit. The install was a piece of cake. Since it came with an i88 pigtail I didn't see the need to use an adapter harness. I just soldered it in alongside the existing i88 connector. Easy peasy. Then I had to notch the dash support which was a 5 minute task using a hole saw and cutoff wheel on my dremel. The rest was a standard head unit install. The kit I bought even came with a harness adapter and I already had an antenna adapter laying around. Works great. Right now I'm just running the stock speakers off the head unit and it sounds way, way better than I was expecting. Definitely an improvement from the stock radio. Soon I'll be installing new front speakers, backup camera, sub and amp. I've been wanting to do this for a while and I'm glad I finally took the plunge.

Ooh wow those are thick spacers! How's the clearance between the speaker and the door panel? Thank you for the info BTW. This is pretty damn helpful. edit: one more question. How's the imaging with these and did you unplug the stock tweeters?

How did you like the Infinitys? Incidentally I just installed my double-din and I'm running the stock speakers off the head unit and I'm surprised at how good they sound. Like I can't even believe they're the same speakers. The stock head unit really sucks! I'm excited to see how it sounds with a nice set being run by an amp.

I'm planning out an upgrade on my '05 Legacy and I'm stuck on choosing a set of front speakers. Originally I was going to go with a set of NVX VSP65's since that's what I had on my last car and I absolutely loved them, but they have a 2.5" mounting depth which I'm learning might be a problem. They do include spaces which appear to be about 1/4 inch which I'm guessing won't be enough. I'm looking for alternatives, right now I'm suffering from fatigue due to too many choices. So far the ones I'm seeing with a sub 2" mounting depth are: Infinity Reference REF-6532ex https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R6532EM/Infinity-Reference-REF-6532ex.html?tp=105details-tab Focal Integration ISC 165 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ISC165/Focal-Integration-ISC-165.html and Kicker 46CSC654 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646CC654/Kicker-46CSC654.html?tp=105 I'm trying to stay under $100. These will be powered by an external amp + double-din head unit so sensitivity isn't really a concern. I'm just trying to avoid something that has shrill highs. Also I'm going with coax because I don't like the stock tweeter location (I'll be unplugging it) and the imaging might actually improve with coax. If I can get the 2.5" depth NVX's to work i'd really like to go with those. They had amazing detail and smooth highs. If it's going to be a hassle with DIY making spacers and then having them interfering with the door panels I'd rather use something else.

My trans is not doing too well right now and will probably need to be replaced relatively soon. I'm going to try and get a replacement unit ahead of time so I can hopefully make the swap before it grenades. My question is regarding swapping between years and models. Theoretically they're all compatible with each other provided the final drive ratio is the same, and they use the same Duty C solenoid setup, which would be the case for all 2005 and up cars correct? In that case means I can get a donor unit from a 2005-2009 Legacy, or probably from 2005-2011 Impreza as well? Then why does car-part.com show different listings for CA Emissions and non CA emissions vehicles? If I were to guess, it's because Subaru shows different parts numbers as well. That's only for 2005. 2006 and 2007 has their own part number. 2008 and 2009 Leggys, as well as 2008-2011 Imprezas are yet a third part number. I also know Subaru loves to arbitrarily give different part numbers for different years for the identical parts. In the real world does any of this make a difference? Is there a reason a 2006 Legacy trans wont work in my 2005? Or even better one from a 2011 Impreza? A local junkyard has a 15k mile transmission (15k miles!!) from a '11 Impreza for only $350. That's the one I want. I just don't want to find out the hard way it doesn't work.

Well I installed the spacers and they definitely worked. I gained at least an inch of ride height and the rear actually matches the front now. If anything it's a little higher. The bad news is I'm still toed in and there is still visible negative camber on the right side. Now I'm torn between replacing the lateral links/toe arms again which might not even fix the camber issue or might not fix any issue at all, or just biting the bullet and getting a Whiteline KTA124 kit which will certainly fix the issue but just seems ridiculous. I really don't want to drop another $350 on this beater but it's eating tires so I guess I really don't have much of a choice.

It's not even that. I used to turn wrenches for a living, and in fact I was a Subaru master tech (granted that was in 2005 but it's good for something). I don't know what another tech is going to tell me that I don't already know. The problem isn't obvious and if this was a customer's car I'd be at the point of throwing parts at it, which is what I'm doing now. I'm just spitballing out loud at this point and maybe someone else here had the same issue. I've never seen this problem on a customer's car but at the same token they were still relatively new back then.

Already did and they had no clue. They said to bring it back after it's fixed and they'll re-align it no charge. Any other shop I bring it to is going to throw parts at it. I can do that too and not pay for labor.

I think I'm going to address the ride height issue first since it needs to be corrected anyway. I'd like to see how much improvement I can get from raising the rear before going crazy with anything else. This is how it currently sits. It's worse with a full tank of fuel. Currently it's running some Chinese eBay shock/spring combo in the rear, installed by the previous owner. They actually ride ok. So I'm wondering if I should A: Replace the rear springs only using OEM springs (maybe even LGT wagon rear springs for a little extra stiffness) B: Replace the rear springs only using aftermarket Moog coil springs. C: Coil spring boosters like this: https://www.jegs.com/i/Mr-Gasket/720/1287/10002/-1 D: Monroe OESpectrum quick struts. I'm kinda leaning towards C, the cheapest option, just to see what happens. Seemed to work for this guy: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rear-coil-springs-saggy-butt-fix-208696.html

Unfortunately I already discarded the old ones. I measured camber with the rear wheels off the ground and its even on both sides (and visibly positive). So the issue is only when the suspension is loaded. If something was bent, it'd be bent whether the rear is up in the air or not. I feel like I'm going to have to start throwing parts at this thing. Probably starting with the arms that I might have bent. They're only like $20 each. If that doesn't help then I guess I need to address the ride height. Ugh this is annoying.

I know I'm bumping an ancient thread but found it incredibly informative. I'm having an issue with excess camber and toe-in on my 2005 Wagon. Alignment shop can't get it right and the toe adjustments are at their max. Rear end appears to sit somewhat low so according to OP this all makes sense and it's working as designed. I'm probably going to see if saggy butt spacers fix this but I have one burning question. Say you take a brand new Legacy from the factory, with perfect ride height and alignment. Put 2 people in the back and some luggage for a road trip. Now the suspension squats a few inches, and then what... Excess negative camber and toe-in? Isn't that going to needlessly eat tires? Isn't that kind of a dumb design?

I measured the upper lateral links from bolt to bolt on both sides and they measure exactly the same. The rear on this car does sit a little low, which would explain some negative camber and toe-in, but the discrepancy between left and right is what I'm still trying to figure out. If it is as simple as putting on saggy-butt spacers that's exactly what I'll do but I think there's more to it than that. I'm going to try and measure the suspension at full-droop with the rear end off the ground and see if that 3 degrees negative camber is still there.

That’s a clever idea!! I’m going to give that a try.

No evidence of an accident. The lower lateral links are aftermarket but the upper one is my original, just rebushed. Even if the lowers were the cause I’m having trouble understanding how that would effect camber this much. The lowers should only affect toe as far as I can see. I suppose it’s possible that my upper lateral link is bent. I’m going to have to measure them and see.

Some backstory: Bought car about 2 months ago. Noticed rear end wiggled everywhere on bumps, creaking noises, saggy butt, the works. Found trailing arm bushings torn, upper inner lateral link bushings completely gone (metal to metal), and the rest of the bushings looked not too far behind. Also car had excessive rear toe-in, and possibly camber too. Also found new rear shock/springs of unknown brand but undoubtedly from eBay. I replaced the trailing arm bushings with whiteline polyurethane, the upper inner lateral link bushings with whiteline, dorman forward lateral links, and some other aftermarket rear lower lateral links, as well as new Moog toe adjustment bolts. The ride height issue seems improved, but the toe (and I guess camber too) issue is the same, now verified by a machine and not just my eyes. I guess the question I should be asking is how much does ride height influence camber and toe? If the car is riding too low by an inch could that be what's throwing everything off? Another possibility. I accidentally installed the rearward lateral links upside down and drove on it a little bit before reinstalling them the right way. The arms might have bent slightly although visually they look fine. I'd be ready to blame them for it if it didn't already have this problem to begin with.

'05 Legacy Wagon 2.5i. Bone stock. I just tried to have my Legacy aligned after rebuilding the rear suspension and it's pretty out of wack. This was the best he could do. Forward & Rear lateral links are new. Upper lateral links have new inner Whiteline bushings. The outers are fine. Also new whiteline trailing arm bushings. New toe adjustment bolts. Ride height, measured to the ground to the fender lip is: LF 25 3/8" RF 26 3/4" LR 25 3/4" RR 25 1/4" This was measured in my garage which I believe to be level. What should I do? I know Whiteline makes a rear camber bolt for the upper lateral outer bushing but is that enough to correct 3 degrees? That also is unlikely to help rear toe much. How much effect does camber have on toe anyway? Also the R/F camber. That was the best he could get it. The struts appear to be originals. Is there a camber bolt that gives a little more adjustment?

hahaha I've done that before when I was a Subaru tech. Oil hit the ceiling of the shop when I started it up.

Last week I installed rear lateral links upside down. The arms smashing into the subframe over bumps/dips did not feel nice. Thought I actually had blown shocks and felt like a complete moron once I realized what I did. Fortunately there was no damage and everything's fine after flipping them around.

Door intrusion beam inside the door has a tendency to become detached. I remember seeing a bulletin on it somewhere. The one on my passenger's door is loose and rattles like crazy when I'm idling in Drive.

Ok it worked out. A $3.99 3/8” ratchet, plain Jane 6” extension, and a shallow 14mm socket worked a treat. I did have an issue though. The bolts Autozone ordered me were waaaay too long and actually will push the rotor off the hub. I ended up looking through their generic hardware bin. The OEM bolt is M10x 1.25mm, 20mm long. The best I could find was 25mm so I ended up stacking 5mm of washers to make up the difference. I hate to do some ghetto shit like that but it worked. I’ll be ordering the correct bolts from the dealer. Car had brand new pads and rotors all around when I got it. I also found a front caliper bolt loose too. I think I need to go over every bolt in the car, god only knows what else this moron touched.

Don't give me nightmares lol.

Unfortunately HF is a bit far away so I'll have to make do with whatever Autozone has. I'm going to go with 3/8". I just need to get them snug and I'll address it properly when I get home. For the 3/8" straight extension. Is 8" enough or should I go with something longer?

I'm in a bit of a jam. This morning on my way to work I heard some clunking. Turns out one of my rear caliper bracket bolts fell out and the whole thing is flopping around (just one more reason for me to curse the PO of this car ). Anyway I'm going to take the subway to Autozone to pick up some new bolts, and whatever tools I'll need. I have no tools with me. I know I'll need a 14mm socket (shallow right?) a chinese 3/8 ratchet, but I need to know approximately what length extension I'll need. Also does it need to be a wobble extension because from what I remember it isn't a straight shot. Just want to take care of this as quickly as possible so I can drive home later lol.

Brunzo thanks for the pics. Those are very helpful. I bet the sensor is located in the rear portion where that dark squarish looking thing is. I think the problem with using an aftermarket mat is that the switch wont enable the element without reading a value from the sensor.