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hpcbmw

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  • Location
    near Sacramento, CA
  • Car
    2005 Subie Legacy 2.5 GT w/nav

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  1. Replaced the upstream 02 sensor with the $85.00 denso from Amazon, cleared codes and the CEL has not come back on. The old sensor wasn't too tight, so I didn't need to use Max's hose clamp trick. The Denso sensor came with anti seize compound, so I used that also. Still gotta find the coolant leak, but at least the CEL issue is resolved. Thanks for the help!
  2. Thanks Guys- I checked my records and don't see any notes or receipts for the O2 sensor, and i've had the car since 40k miles. Especially thanks to Max Cap for the link to the $85.00 denso part on Amazon. I checked with Densoautoparts.com and verified that the upstream 02 sensor part number is denso 234-9120. Ordered today! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F799X6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  3. My car is an 05 LGT limited with 170k on it, all stock. I've got a small coolant leak, so sprayed the entire engine and engine bay with degreaser, then blasted it with my garden hose to rinse off as much dirt as possible. The next day, I get 2 codes- P0030 and P0134. Both seem to be the front/upstream 02 sensor, which is about $140.00 at Napa. I've unplugged the yellow sensor 02 sensor wire at the top of the passenger side of engine compartment and sprayed some electrical cleaner in there, then plugged it back in, but still have the codes. Any other ideas? It seems strange to me that spraying the engine compartment down would damage the 02 sensor- or maybe it's just a very strange coincidence. Plus- I still have to find the damn coolant leak! Every time I drive the car, it starts to smell of burnt coolant. Thanks!
  4. I picked up the Subie from the shop and spoke to the mechanic. I was mistaken about which hoses had to be replaced. The turbo inlet, throttle body hose and turbo drain hose all need to be replaced. The mechanic explained that the intake must be removed to replace onThread Toolse of these- I think it's the turbo inlet -a large hose about 14" long that goes under the intake. He said some people try to do it without removing the intake, but that often results in breaking or cracking the plastic and rubber hoses that attach to the hose. I took the car home and will be removing the intake to replace these hoses and any other old, swollen or cracked hoses. If anyone has a good used TMIC with no air leaks, please PM me. I'm near Sacramento, Ca. I looked on ebay for the TMIC "repair kit" the WhiteXc referred to, but can't find it. I'm more interested in getting this fixed relatively cheap than in upgrading to a better intercooler- I'm saving up now for a new car and plan to sell this one in about a year. I just need to get another 10k miles out of it.
  5. Thanks Guys! I'll pick up the car and talk to the mechanic about exactly what needs to be replaced. I just picked up an extra car, so I can take my time working on the subie.
  6. My 05 Legacy GT has about 145k miles on it. The CEL came on with PO171 codes. Took it to a local shop and they did a smoke test, which showed air leaks in two hoses and the intercooler. Their price to replace hoses and intercooler is about $1,300.00. They only buy parts from Subaru. They are a reputable shop that is known for doing excellent work, but they aren't cheap. My car is kinda of beat up and has a salvage title. It's got a leaky power steering pump that I've been feeding pump seal into for over a year, plus a couple other small mechanical issues. I can't see putting $1,300.00 into it. My two options are to try to sell it as is, or fix it myself. I'm a so/so shade tree mechanic, with an open garage and a good supply of tools. If I can get by with about $500 in parts and not too much headache, I'll do the work myself. That's where my question comes in- how difficult is it to R&R the intercooler? Is it time consuming, but straightforward? Does it have 5 or 6 really difficult or complicated steps? Should it take a newbie 2-3 hours or 10-12 hours? Thanks in advance for any advice!
  7. Thanks BBB, that's great info on tracking down parts! My only problem is that none of the self service wreckers around here seem to have subarus, except the random Subaru Justy or wagon from the 80s. However, by searching the actual part number, which you found and I double checked with my VIN, I can find online dealer pricing for $68, which is MUCH better than $91. If the guy with the parts car doesn't have what I need next week, I'll probably order a $68 one online. Thanks!
  8. Thanks for trying WL, but it is not the same part. I've searched around ebay and can't seem to find the identical part. A local guy has a parts car on craigslist, I'm hoping he's got the part, but he's out of town for a week. I've rigged it to blow up for the defroster, but my wife says her toes are freezing. Since it's her car, I've got to fix it next week one way or the other.
  9. Anyone have one of these actuators laying around from a parts car? Mine seems to work intermittently. Sometimes when I plug it in, it works, then I test it 5 mins later and it doesn't work. I took it apart and cleaned it up, with no luck. I don't want to spend $90 at the dealer to find the problem is an electrical issue, or that the problem stems from another part of the hvac system. I need the upper one on the passenger footwell in my 2005 lgt with nav and dual climate controls - it controls the defrost/face/foot vents. Here's what I'm looking for:
  10. Hey Guys, my bone stock 2005 LGT with 95k miles started running really rough when accelerating onto the freeway. My wife drove it gently about 3 miles home. I pulled the codes and got PO302 (cyl 2 misfire) as a current code and P0303 (cyl 3 misfire) as a pending code. I pulled the intercooler to see check for vacuum leaks. All looked good, except these two vacuum lines in picture 1 that are open to the air. They ae directly underneath the intercooler. Is this normal? Do they need to be capped or anything? Next, I pulled plugs and pic 2 is what cyl 2 plug looked like. The tip is completely burned off! Any idea what would cause this? I put in new plugs in cyl 2 and 4 and it still ran like crap and CEL light came on. I swapped cyl 2 and 4 coil packs and pulled codes and it said P040 - cyl 4 misfire. So, i'm hoping all I need to do is replace one coil pack and change the plugs in cyls 1 and 3. I have most of the cars service records going back to about 30k miles and it doesn't look like the plugs have been changed. What brand coil packs are recommended? Napa has "ultra 8" brand for $85.00. Amazon has beck arnley for $57 and delphi for $69. Rock auto has a number of brands for $40 to $70. I'm sure my local subie dealer has OEM for $200 or something crazy. Anybody have suggestions on what brand to buy or what brand to avoid? I'm hoping to buy only one. Thanks!
  11. Actually, the rattle happened with window up, down or in the middle. I got the door panel off and found that the two tubular door supports that run front to back had broken loose form the weld, or whatever holds them in place. That door has been hit in the past and the impact apparently broke the welds loose. I stuffed some foam material in to wedge the tubular supports against the door frame and the rattle is now gone. To get the door panel off, I used these two posts: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=53186&postcount=5 and http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/door-panel-removal-sound-deadening-install-pics-20069.html Look at picture one and two of the second link, then use the description in the first link to remove the door grab handle cover. It's kind of confusing but push up on the door panel, in front of the grab handle, with one hand, while twisting the plastic cover towards the front with the other hand. Once I figured it out, it only took 2 minutes to get the cover off. The rest of the door panel is easy.
  12. Drove the wife's 2005 LGT today and when I shut the driver door, I heard something knocking. The driver window goes up and down ok, but when I push/pull on it, it seems a bit loose. It sounds like something is swinging loose in the door when you shut it. Any ideas? How hard is it to remove the door panel? Thx for any ideas.
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