michaelj11103

Unfortunately, I was unable to get those two bolts off. I even broke the head on one of the bolts and said enough was enough so I stopped messing with it. I even went out and got the Milwaukee m12 right angle impact wrench, still couldn't break the bolt. My only other idea on how you could get it off is to use something like Tite-Reach, obviously you'll still be limited in space so you'd need to make sure the tite-reach extension can fit. And last resort, you'd need to remove the intake manifold to be able to break the EGR valve bolt with a good size breaker bar.

I am looking for a way to wire my automatic headlights to my wipers so that the headlights turn on automatically while using my headlights in my 2015 Subaru Legacy Limited 2.5l. There is currently no “wiper-link” like other models/years have that do this automatically. I’m wondering what the easiest way to do that would be. Attached is the wiring diagrams for both the headlights and the wipers. My initial thoughts are this: from the front wiper switch, take the green B1 wire (that goes to the front wiper motor and body integrated unit) and connect splice it to the N23 connector blue (L/B) wire going into the H/L LO Relay. That’s at least the path that I believe would work to trigger the lights to turn on when the wipers are on. Would this work? Or am I completely off? The second part to this is I hope to be the least intrusive as possible when creating this wiring path. I’d like to create a solution that could easily be remove. So my thought was maybe to get female and/or male connectors (opposite of the current connectors) and create the path using these connectors so then if I need to revert back I just take out the connectors I added and reconnect the original ones. I know that seems like a lot of work for such a small thing, but I’d like to keep it as clean as possible. Anyone know of any other ways to keep it clean, physically? Thoughts? Comments? All and any ideas accepted. Thanks! Much appreciated!

Thanks for the update Painless. After about 5k miles since I replaced my PVC, I took it out and tried to see if I could get it to thread further down. (This was before I read your comment, Painless). I used some carb cleaner on a paper towel and a battery terminal brush to try and get the threads clean. I took the PVC Valve out because when I put it in, I forgot to use liquid gasket. When I was pulling the hose out, the hose cracked so I ordered a new one. The end where the PCV valve is, the hose was very hard compared to the other side. The PVC valve also had a small trace of oil outside the valve at the base, probably due to not using liquid gasket. It seemed like I was able to get it a little further down this time not still threads are showing. Torqued it down to 25Nm and let sit for ~24 hours for liquid gasket to cure.

Today I tried to take off my EGR Valve and was unsuccessful. I was able to remove the 4 bolts for the EGR Pipes, but the 4 bolts to the intake manifold would not break free. Tried to use a right angle impact (60lbs torque) but was unsuccessful. Tried to use PB Blaster, didn't help considering the upward direction. I then removed the alternator and tried from the front, again was unsuccessful. I have about 113k miles. Has anyone else had problems and/or success taking off their EGR Control Valve. Anyone have any tips on how to remove the EGR valve from the intake manifold. My next step is to remove the intake manifold and then remove the EGR control valve with the intake manifold out of the engine. I don't particularly want to do this, but that may be the only way. Has anyone had to have their EGR valve replaced because the EGR valve was throwing a code? Thanks

Was the PCV valve threaded all the way down, covering all the threads? I changed mine and I was only able to turn it a few times, leaving many threads visible.

I'm sure it would be a suitable tool for our gen legacy's, but looking at the price of $148 US Dollars, I don't think it would be worth it to purchase. I bought this thin wall swivel spark plug socket and was able to remove my spark plugs fairly easy in my 15 Legacy Limited. I had another set of swivel spark plug socket and they were actually too thick to use. Hope this helps

If you updated your navigation to the current version and afterwards lost Engine and Info Monitor Function, as well as compass and navigation direction on the instrument cluster, it is not the file that is bad, it was the update. I updated my 2015 Legacy Limited last year and for the last 8 months thought that the firmware version was bad. Yesterday I tried the update again and it fixed my issue. Some key notes: Make sure you use 2GB flash drive formatted FAT32 (It says you can use up to a 4GB drive). Check your Unit Version Information: When I lost the engine and info monitor function the Nor and ESD were updated to the updated version, but DB was not. If your DB is not updated, then this is a sign that the second USB did not update properly. (also my CAN changed versions too once the second update was successful) When updating the second USB, the progress bar for me completed three times, I believe for each file on the usb stick. The first time I tried to update it, the file transfer and upload happened very fast, faster than USB 1 (this is also an indicator that the second USB update failed). It should take slightly longer than the first USB. It seems like the it first transfers the files to the ECU, then once it is complete and you restart the ACC, then it actually installs the update. I redid both USB 1 and 2 (not sure if you had to redo the 1st one, but I did just in case) and took my time and followed the instructions exactly (sometimes waiting an extra couple of seconds). Hope this helps someone.