Jadu108

yeah. i got a ride to the Autozone in the morning... just irritated cause i was SOOO close to being done and i got carried away ive put more work into this car than any previous owner, and ive ended up doing most things twice, usually for a defective part, not me being a derp... oh well.

id follow mighty car mods build tbh

thanks! i will try to get a compressor tool then :\

Not today, rather the past few days Replaced all 4 shock assemblies, broke a strut mount bolt... lovely.. also changed out the rear knuckle assmeblies and axles... and i cleaned the car for the first time in 2 owners :\... wtf did the previous ppl do to this car well... now i need to replace the strut mount/bolt and ill be good, ish....

Im a dumbass >.< but the question is... can i change the strut mount without needing to compress the spring? i kinda want to just swap the strut mount from my old assembly(still decent) with it in the car. thanks

I can do this with the hub still attatched to the assembly?

95 legacy rear disk brakes, changing the whole assembly. How do i swap the cable over to the new spindle?

Should be. Found a 96 legacy with a new axle nut and behold new bearings... Whole assembly spindle and all is 25$ a pop. Struts are decent so im gonna go back tomorrow and pick them up. And i got some axles in the meantime. And if those axles are still good ill probably just repack them and reuse them or resell. All i need is to get bushings for everything in the rear. Wondering if there is parts number list for the bushings specifically in the rear so i dont accidently get the wrong ones.

Ill be changing bearing/spindle, bushings, axles, and struts in the rear tmrw/weds... Ill diagnose awd after the weekend and just throw the fwd fuse in the box.

Found another threat about the center diff and 4eat... If its not the solenoid then i can just swap the rear housing with a good unit and it will work. Basically the same if im understanding... Guess ill get on it. Thanks for the help. Any other thoughts or suggestions would be cool

So it turned relatively easy. But one of my tires could spin freely, the other was getting held up mid way thru its rotation. So i pulled the tired off and checked the caliper to make sure it wasnt sticking... It was, but i unjammed it and now it glides free, it still has difficulty spinning freely thru its whole turn. Noise souns like its coming from the opposit side of the rotor from the caliper, but in the back side of the spindle... So... As far as the drive shaft spinning smoothly and easily, what does that mean? As for the other thing? Bearing or axle?

I believe the center diff can be done with the trans still mounted, from what i understand the 4eats have the clutch packs and all at the rear where it connects to the driveshaft... But ill research more... But i wonder if its the rear, because it has worked since i got it, ive taken this thing through some weather, but a random seepage has developed at the rear diff. But i think yes for now perhaps ill get these rear struts changed out and do those bushings, im debating on slappin some axles on em too while im down there.

Okay. So just 'drove' it on stands, couldnt pin point anything in the driveshaft area, buuuut i noticed my rear 2 tires do not spin. Fwd fuse is not in. Is my diff locked up?

95 legacy wagon 2.2l automatic  Ive been diagnosing a high speed vibration for awhile. Its generally not felt in the steering wheel so much as it is felt through the whole car. Initially changing the brake calipers out had helped, as one was stuck and the rest in various stages of getting stuck. Initially that worked for a fee hundred miles... Checked the calipers again, one was stuck again, replaced it. Went away for a couple hundred miles, came back, the calipers are fine this time. Even wear on the pads(all replaced as well). Ive since done an alignment and replaced all the tires, balanced etc. The rear driver side is scalloping on the inside tread, so i rotated the tires and that didnt solve anything... So the back struts are dead for sure, i get no play or feed back in the spring when i check for bad bearings... The differential has began seeping, but nothing alarming as far as rate. No odd smell of burning up the rear diff. But the seepage seems to be coming from above and around the other side of the fill plug... There is no oil on the axles what so ever. The bushings are 50\50. Axles look, feel, and sound fine. I cant really identify a specific noise while driving, as in humming, howling, growling, grinding, but it does seem road noise is loud(er?) Am i dealing with shitty struts, can i overlook the bearings, should i be trying to check the drive shaft or rear diff Is there something i can do while its on 4 stands to check? Ive read other threads recently posted but im not sure my front is to blame as it feels like its in the rear. It doesnt really care if im turning to the left or right, tight turning is still responsive(i think. Ive never had an awd, so maybe i dont understand what torque bind is etc), no clicking. Its seem to be more prominent at higher speeds, above 70mph, seems to be better when its cold or dark outside(weird?), but once it starts i can feel it all the way back down to 30-40 mph. Idk. Thanks for any insight.

Sorry for late response. I was on the road from Salt Lake to my next destination. I guess im not quite sure i understand this. Is there a noise or soemthing im looking for? Something additional ive noticed is my MPGs seems a little low, at about 25 or less. And i now have what sounds to be lifter or valve tick?

TLDR; intermittently sluggish, p0440 CEL Code So ever since i replaced the rack and pinion ive had a check engine, and it was orignally because I had broken a weld right before the cat, and of course it through the code at the sensor on the cat. So i recently got it welded up at my buddys in topeka, and while we did that we noticed the hoses were unplugged from the egr valve, so we plugged those back in, and all this power loss i had comes back. All is fine and i can get back to not being an old lady in traffic... Okay now the CEL is back with p0440 again and my power decides itll come on its own terms... Thoughts, suggestions, and things to check would be helpful Ill be back in salt lake for a couple days and ill have a decent soace to work on the car and get parts etc from a very conveniently located pick n pull, auto parts store, and subaru, all within a block of my friends house Thanks again

They were mush. Sneezing at the wheel gave me play in the tie rods lol. I decided to follow the first commenters advice and out of the box i could tell a difference from when the last set was new. Thanks guys. Appreciate the input!

Title is the summary, and the TLDR question is, is this just shit duralast parts being shit duralast parts, or is this a pattern that will repeat regardless of brand... Details and specifics below. Feel free to ask questions and any advice is helpful... As some of you may know, I was given this strong but beat up stallion of a 95 wagon. And ive been having to do a lot of replacing of stuff in the steering/suspension/ and braking departments. Among these were of course the Tie rod ends(the old ones were dead and i was alrdy replacing the rack and inner tie rods). So after 3k miles, somewhere on the hell that is the i75 in Georgia outside of Macon, my caliper bolt fell out, and while investigating that, i discovered lo and behold my driver side new tie rod was completely dead... I mean it was barely holding on i mean BARELY holding on. Whatever. I have a spare, was close enough to a friends house, got it over there put the spare on and continued on my journey. Okay. Now between Macon GA, and Topeka KS(where im at now at another friends house, thank the lord for friends)... I discover my other new tie rod is biting the dust, not as bad as the other one, but i can still twist it by hand and wiggle it in the joint by hand... Okay. Cool. 2 tie rods dead in under 5k, i now i do not have a spare... And i we just did an alignment....UUUUUHHHHHHGGGGGGGGGGG. Im getting ready to throw on the warranty replacements but im actually pretty curious if there may be a reason why they failed in under 5k that is related to a greater issue in the car... Or if its because duralast crap is well... Crap. Thanks guys.

I swear im just gonna save up some money and just redo the whole suspension system

So ive been on my way back from Florida to NM/UT, taking a different route because i happen to have friends this way. Today im at my buddies in Topeka and we are going to he diagnosing a few things that keep coming up, that i thought i had fixed... Uhg.

Uh one of the back calipers started to stick. So i just got the parts to redo both backs. And someine is offering free suspension off a 05 wrx... Im wondering if its worth changing the fronts out. I dont think the backs are direct swap or desirsble.

Today(and yesterday) i drove my Subie 1700 miles across the country. Utah to NM to Florida

95 legacy Its only when im going over curbs or something. Pot holes do it if im going slow. Alrdy changed tie rods and ball joints. When i break nornal its fine, but like if i kinda hit the brakes hard, its more like i feel the clunk than hear it... The noises from the curbs are heard not felt. Im leaning toward a control arm bushing? If thats what it is i just dgaf anymore. I need to get home. Trying to do hard turns and violent back and forths do nothing accept feel and sound normal. Cant make noise on my own. Im not fat enough

Yes. Odd thing was no play in the wheel. But after the whole spindle was off the the bearing had a ridiculous amount of play

Today is the day i finished all the repairs i needed to make this car road safe i.e. wont die while driving it. Today it was a wheel bearing, opted to replace the whole hub and knuckle. I imagine some more stuff will become needed soon. But i can finally get back after weeks of being stuck in Utah.