NSFW

I've only seen one, but it did disable learning at high-ish RPM and load. If you can pull your tune with EcuFlash, you can see the "fine learning knock connection" ranges. It's one form of knock correction, there is another (feedback knock correction) which remains enabled but it only lasts for seconds. This guy's engine will hit the same timing, and knock again, on the next WOT pull.

Thanks.

Are Acura TSX projectors similar to the MDX and RX330? There's an ebay seller with "RX330" in his TSX listing. It doesn't look quite right, so maybe it's just keyword spam, but I gotta ask... EDIT: Ebay seller "hidparts" is a keyword-spamming douchebag! Thanks!

<cough> Mobil 1 <cough>

I've heard a lot about knock sensors mistaking rattles for knock. I'm not sure how you'd go about determining whether the sensor is picking up false knock though, other than fixing any obvious rattles. I found a company that modifies spark plugs to measure combustion chamber pressure, which would make an awesome knock sensor... but they want about $1000 each and that doesn't include the cost of a computer interface.

That makes sense, thanks.

How to interpret learning view results: http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic4899.html http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic5371.html It looks like you've got injectors (or an intake) that you're not tuned for. You're knocking a little bit, in a lot of cells, which might be a side-effect of the fueling problem. The numbers in the knock correction cells are strange - previously I've only seen multiples of 0.35 (stock tune works that way), or a multiple of 0.20 plus a multiple of 0.01 (my tune does that). I don't see a pattern in your numbers... Can you look up the "fine correction retard value" and "find correction advance value" in your tune?

My child is an honor student at the Skip Barber School.

I like this a lot. Especially if you're catless.

Thanks for clarifying.

At some point I'm going to replace the blue Subaru oval with a Ford oval.

I think you're mostly on track except maybe this: It's my understanding that the ECU uses FLKC when RPM and load are changing slowly, and FBKC when one or both are changing rapidly. I think of it as the ECU's way of mitigating knock when conditions are changing too rapidly to really know for sure which FLKC cell should be adjusted. So, if you disable FLKC above (for example) 2.2 load, FBKC may not help much at all... only right after you let off the throttle and other transient conditions like that. I don't recall Merchgod saying anything about the ECU using FBKC when rpm and load are stable but FLKC is disabled - it's possible but I wouldn't bet my motor on it. This also means that you can and will see FBKC in the areas where FLKC is active - when shifting, for example.

I'm in for that.

See also: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1851197

Thanks for the offer, but it was a couple Sundays ago.

Thanks for being the guinea pig! There was a set of these on ebay for a while, I was tempted to go for it but didn't want to take on yet another experiment with my car just yet.

99% chance I'll be in the Puyallup show.

The Edmonds Classic Car Show is on Sunday. Our cars are about 25 years too new to enter, but there was a bunch of great stuff there last time I went. http://www.edmondswa.com/09CARSHOWINDEX.html I'm going. Anyone else interested?

That's interesting because I have a similar issue. However I just thought it was my fuel injectors. Nothing changed after pulling and replacing my intake manifold and TGVs last weekend, and nothing looked bad about the O-rings or the TGV-block gaskets. Also, I would expect any leakiness there to manifest as a boost leak, and I have no reason to believe that my car has one. Do you? Are you running upgraded injectors or any other mods that have been known to affect idle? I've been thinking about playing with timing to see if that has any effect. Injector latency sure hasn't made any difference.

No, he just gave me the printouts. That's a cellphone pic of one of them, I'll scan them at some point to get decent resolution.

This was on the same dyno as Trademark, a few posts up above. Except the RPM sensor was flaky when I was there, so it's MPH on the X axis. All pulls were 2k to 7k though... http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/Dyno%20Charts/2009-08-25-1.jpg The curve is shaped about right and the peak power is good, so I'm happy. I do have some work to do on the boost and AFR though. But I'm about to start from scratch on the boost anyway. We did 6 pulls, those are from the 2nd set. The low pull was when the engine (intercooler, especially) was hottest. After that one we spent a few minutes BSing and spraying the FMIC and letting things cool, then did the final pull, which ended up being the highest of the day. Actual AFR is about .3 lower than their sensor indicates (catted exhaust + tailpipe sniffer). Power mods at this point: Intake FMIC UP, DP, MP, YP Tuned by me Stock turbo, stock mufflers.

Open front diff gets my vote. You might think that the viscous coupling in the center would bind up and therefore save the day, but those things don't really bind up nearly as hard as we'd all like them to.

Thanks! Decisions, decisions... Hmmmm.

What time do they open when they do the street legal / test-and-tune stuff?