NSFW

That would suck. If so, just get the 06 WRX version (with pressure plate), and an 06 WRX flywheel. When I did this compilation I didn't fully appreciate that 06 WRX clutches can be used on BL/BP 5MTs. You just need to use an 06 WRX (or compatible) flywheel. That opens up many more options, which I did not list here.

How do you know they had seen very little detonation?

I get you, and I think you're on the right track. On one hand, the stock pistons aren't great. In spite of our ECU's knock mitigation people still manage to kill stock pistons fairly often. Busted ring lands happen for other makes too but they seem to happen to Subarus more often. I think it was Boostin who mentioned that in other niches, people just listen for audible knock, and that approach works well enough. I think there's a reason that nobody tunes Subarus that way. Not successfully anyhow. On the other hand, there are plenty of Subarus out there with crap tunes. I don't know exactly what models/years of factory tunes have this problem but I do know that it's been well documented in 07 STIs. They stay at 14.7 AFR way into boost, before switching to richer AFR. I don't think it's a coincidence that a lot of people at NASIOC believe that the pistons got weaker around the 07 model year, since the failure rate went up. However other people claim that there's no difference in the pistons, and I believe those people. We know the STI tunes changed for the worse, I don't see why people want to speculate that the pistons did too. It's been seen in other models/years besides the 07 STI, I haven't paid close attention to which. I have not seen evidence that any LGT models are affected by that particular problem, though. I tried to help a guy at NASIOC clean up what I thought was a simple problem with an 02 Cobb WRX tune, not too long ago, and eventually decided that the timing was just so messed up it would be better to start over from scratch. For starters, the car was pulling 2.3 g/rev and the timing table only extended to 2.1. I don't believe that all Cobb tunes are bad, since I've only seen one up close, but that one wasn't good. I've also had random people send me logs enough times to know that there are people out there calling themselves tuners who have no business tuning. I don't think there's any question that bad tunes - tunes that knock a lot - will kill pistons. So when people (usually at NASIOC) post up about their dead pistons, I like to ask what they were doing to monitor knock. In all but one case, the answer was some variation of "nothing, I just trust my tuner." My guess is that if the tune knocks very little, the stock pistons will last a very long time. I'm hoping to prove that theory by running 400whp, logging a lot, knocking very little, and keeping my stock pistons for another 100k miles. I'm also ready to buy a new motor though, just in case.

I was planning to just log the MAFv from the new sensor, to make it easier to get the MAF scaling set up. Plus I think it would be cool to make a graph that demonstrates that the "FMIC rich dip" really does come from a difference in MAF as measured at each location (or not, as the case may be). I think that the new sensor's IAT will be in the same range that the ECU is accustomed to. The turbo will heat it up, the IC will cool it down, but temperatures from my CAI go up a bit during a pull too. I dunno how it will end up, but I am curious. After I switch to blow-through I do like the idea of using the TGV sensors for pre- and post-turbo IAT just to see if I can reverse-engineer the compressor map with a spreadsheet. That's not a super high priority but it might happen.

Doooo iiiiiit.

Just for fun... how to get the TGV position parameters to show whatever value you want: http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/MiscLegacy/MockTgv.jpg

You really can't beat a circular flow of ground current.

I don't think so, the +12 at the MAF connector read the same as +12 at the battery terminals. It was actually a bit less than 12, I think I killed another battery.

Thanks guys. I hooked up a voltmeter to the MAF plug and found: 1 = ground 2 = + 4.76v 3 = ? 4 = ? 5 = + 12v Presumably 3 and 4 are MAF and IAT, or vice-versa. I'm going to make a wiring harness extension to sniff those signals. I meant to stop by an electronics place and pick up some mini spade connectors that I think will work well for the flat 'pins' on the MAF sensor, but forgot to, so that will have to wait. If 3 is the shielded one (as per the FSM), that would suggest that's the MAF signal. And on the TGV position sensor connector: 1 = +5.00 v 2 = ground 3 = signal With a 1M-ohm pot attached to the TGV position sensor I was able to get a logger to read varying voltages on for the TGV position parameter. I find it a little strange that the TGV sensor gets 5.0v from the wiring harness and the MAF/IAT gets 4.76v. Anyone got thoughts on that? My car is an 05, by the way.

What does each wire do? http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/Intake/MAF.jpg From left to right they are... what? Power and ground should be easy enough, it's really the other three that I wonder about. I ask because I want to feed the MAF signal into a now-unused 0-5v input that used to be connected to a TGV position sensor. I just installed a blow-through MAF sensor, and logging MAF from both the existing and new sensors should make it very easy to get the new MAF scaling correct (or at least, close) on the first try. Logging both at once should also prove or disprove a theory about FMICs, lag, and a rich dip that generally occurs right after spoolup on Subarus with big intercoolers. So again, from left to right they are... what? Thanks in advance!

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1992851&postcount=2 ^ That's a Xenarc 705 TSV. Before removing the case, it looked very much like the Lilliput in this picture: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2617154&postcount=1309

Got pictures? My screen was taken out of its case, so the LCD itself could be installed, with the circuit boards, etc, attached behind it. The buttons are not accessible anymore, but the screen itself fits nicely and the remote does everything the buttons did anyway.

Damn, you guys are brutal. Roldan, there are a couple threads in this forum about putting 6MTs into our cars. Read up on them. And come to some meets (check the northwest forum). If you make the right friends, and are willing to turn a wrench, you might not have to pay for labor to get the 6MT installed. (I want to put a 6MT in my car, but it would be nice to practice on someone else's first...)

This thread gave me a headache. Am I going to die?

Why do you believe that 200 watts from an amp will create more heat than a 400-watt subwoofer can handle? An honest subwoofer manufacturer will not rate their subwoofers with a number higher than the amount of power (read as: heat) that the subwoofer can dissipate. It doesn't matter if the signal is a sine wave or a square wave, a signal at a given amount of power will create a proportional amount of heat. I still believe that if you kill a 400w sub with a 200w amp, it wasn't a 400w sub or it wasn't a 200w amp.

Why is that so hard to believe? Your hypothetical 400wrms subwoofer can dissipate the heat from a 400wrms signal, and it has the excursion to handle a 400wrms signal... so why do you think a 200wrms signal is going to exceed any of that sub's limits? If you blow a 400wrms sub with a 200wrms amp, then it wasn't a 400wrms sub, and/or it wasn't a 200wrms amp.

"In order to attain the impossible, one must attempt the absurd." - Miguel de Unamuno "One machine can do the work of fifty ordinary men, but no machine can do the work of one extraordinary man" - Elbert Hubbard

http://www.drive.subaru.com/Win09/Win09_ItsWhatMakes.htm That said, thanks for introducing the term "transfer clutch" to my vocabulary.

I'm pretty sure you meant "transfer cases."

I updated the first post a few days ago but forgot to acknowledge your post until just now. Thanks for the extra information.

Good point, I've updated the 1st post to clarify that, and also to reference your post about 6MT clutches.

Thanks! I was kinda hoping for that.

Awesome, thanks! Since yours was the 1st reply I'll just leave the 1st post as-is rather than duplicating that same information 2 inches higher on the page. The prices on those pages are also MSRP, and I'm guessing street prices will probably be 20-25% lower.

Since my stock clutch started slipping, I've been doing a lot of research on clutches for my 5MT 2005 Legacy GT. While only a few of the manufacturers below make clutches specifically for 2005+ 5MT Legacy GTs, you should be aware that any clutch made for an 2006 or 2007 5MT WRX will work in a 5MT Legacy GT, if you also use a 2006 WRX flywheel. Also, as Unclemat noted in post #8 below, the 07-09 SpecB 6MT transmission will work with any STI clutch, with the stock SpecB flywheel. See post #8 for more detail. I have not listed the 6MT / SpecB options below, focusing instead on the 5MT options. However if you are interested in a 6MT clutch, the links below should allow you to find one in short order. ACT / Advanced Clutch Technology http://www.advancedclutch.com/ ACT clutches for the LGT are similar to identical to their WRX clutches, and they require and ACT flywheel, or a flywheel from an 06 WRX. The "performance street disk" clutch is very popular among people here with stage-2 cars - lots of happy customers. It's rated at 420 ft/lb, which seems to be a very good match for stage 2. However, j255c's 20G+meth setup apparently twists a little bit harder than that (link) so if you have moved beyond stage 2 you should think twice before going with that clutch. ACT does make clutches rated for more torque, but they're all puck-style and service life seems to be 10k-15k for that design. (link) (link) Spec http://www.specclutch.com/ Spec's clutches are LGT-specific. Spec insists that the flywheel be resurfaced however. Subaru doesn't recommend that for dual-mass flywheels, but it can be done (click here). Or you can just get a new flywheel. Spec's "Stage 3+" clutch is the highest-rated full-face unit I've found, and was at the top of my list for a while... however after reading the following, I've decided not to risk doing business with them: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1595639&postcount=2 (That was originally posted here, by Malingator's mechanic: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3585180&postid=44094099#44094099 ) Bullyclutch http://www.bullyclutch.com/ Bullyclutches offers an LGT-specific clutch, and they will be happy to sell an 06 WRX clutch which (like all others) can be used with an 06 WRX flywheel with a BL/BP 5MT. They claim a 60% increase in torque capacity with their Stage 2 full-face clutch, and 100% increase with their Stage 3 puck-style clutch. They also offer their stage-2 clutch with a stage-4 pressure plate for an unspecified increase in capacity. DSchultz has their stage 1 kit (click here), LittleBlueGT has their stage 2 clutch with a stage 4 pressure plate (click here and here). I followed LittleBlueGT's lead with the 2/4 hybrid setup (click here). Clutchmasters http://www.clutchmasters.com/ Clutchmasters does not list any clutches for the 2005+ Legacy GT, but they do make a range of clutches of the 2006 WRX, which should drop right in provided you use a 2006 WRX flywheel. Their FX100 and FX200 clutches uses organic and Kevlar discs, respectively, and both provides a moderate increase over stock (they claim 70% additional holding strength). Their FX300 uses a segmented Kevlar disc, and claims 110% more capacity than stock. For major power upgrades, they also make 4- and 6- puck clutches using ceramic (FX400) or iron (FX500), for 170%-400% more capacity. To the best of my knowledge, nobody here at LegacyGT.com has tried a Clutchmasters clutch yet. Exedy http://www.exedyusa.com/ Only three of Exedy's designs are listed for an 05 LGT: OEM, Stage 1 (full-face), and Stage 2 (puck). Torque specs are not listed for any of them. It's probably not coincidence that these all require a new flywheel, and they are the same models they offer for an 06 WRX. OEM (do they make the original?) Stage 1 (full-face, no torque rating) Stage 2 (puck, no torque rating) Note that Exedy does not list their twin-disc clutch system for the LGT, nor can I find a listing for the 06 WRX. However they do offer them for the STI. SubyDude 555 has one in his Spec B, and I have one in my STI-trans'ed LGT, and we both like them. Twin disc clutches do have an audible rattle when the clutch is pushed in, as a side-effect of the "intermediate flywheel" that's loosely sandwiched between the two clutch discs, but they are silent when your foot is off the clutch. Unorthodox Racing http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/ They don't claim to offer anything for the BL/BP LGT. If you tell their web site that you have an 06 WRX, they list several clutches, but since they offer them in 2.0L and 2.5L versions it's not clear how accurate their database is. If anyone knows for sure that some of these will fit our cars, please reply to this thread and I'll update this post. So far it looks like only one person has tried a UR clutch, he started this thread about it: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1025138 RPS http://www.turboclutch.com/ Someday, maybe? RPS offers 3 clutches for Subarus, however it appears that none are suitable for a BL/BP or 06 WRX. If anyone sees errors or has information that belongs in this post, please reply and I'll update this ASAP.

Your basic idea seems good to me, however "spotless" is too optimistic. I bet the knock sensor would still go off with some bogus knock even if you were running race gas with > 100 octane. Running 93 on a 91 tune is still a good investigative idea though, when your car is (or seems to be) knocking a lot.