NSFW

Sweet! Can't wait to see how that turbo performs.

Try this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/nsfws-6mt-swap-thread-143520.html

Sorry for the slow response, I just saw this question... no, I never did. I still want to, but it's going to be a while. Lots of other stuff on my to-do list these days. But it helps that the days are getting longer now.

TYPE OF STUTTER/STUMBLE Steady throttle/Increasing throttle/Both: 2000-2250 RPM, light throttle. Most pronounced after a cold start, but often still noticeable when warm. Without even thinking about it, I just got into the habit of driving at 2400+ to avoid it, and I've been doing that for so long that I'm not sure when the stumble started. I think it may have been there since the car was stock. MODS Intake: KSTech 73mm CAI Exhaust: Invidia catted DP, Perrin Mid/Y, stock cans Fuel: AVO 245, then later Aeromotive 340 Turbo: ATP 3076 Engine Management: Stock ECU Tuner and revision of tune(if you don't mind): Me, about 175 'official' revisions plus a couple dozen one-offs here and there. Only a few of those flashes were related to the stumble, mostly the revisions have been due to changing mods, adding power, tuning tip-in, changing boost levels, etc, etc... lots of little tweaks here and there. MAINTENANCE Sensors changed: I've got two MAF sensors, didn't notice a difference between them. Plugs changed: Last summer, didn't notice a difference. Coil Packs changed: Never tried that. OTHER SYMPTOMS Check Engine Light: I've had a few, but never anything related. Etc: Car runs great otherwise. RESULTS What has and hasn't worked for you: I've tried forcing the car to stay in open loop, to see if the was related to the O2 sensor or closed loop - made no difference. Tried adding and removing ~5 degrees of ignition timing in the affected area - no difference. Tried adding and removing ~10 degrees of AVCS in the affected area - no difference. Changed fuel lines, changed fuel pressure regulator to an Aeromotive 1000 - no difference. If something worked, how long has it been working for: Nothing has really worked. It's pretty mild after the engine has warmed up, but it doesn't go away completely. Going to try speed-density as soon as I have the time and energy. I made a speed-density ROM for 2005 LGTs but haven't had time to really tune it, so the ROM is still in MAF mode. If the problem is MAF-related, that should fix it.

05-09 LGT clutches are push-to-disengage, and 04-?? 6MT clutches are pull-to-disengage (04-08 at least, maybe 04-current, I don't know). That guy's WRX was probably pull-style as well. You might be able to reuse an LGT flywheel and clutch but I'm pretty sure you'd need a pressure plate that moves in the right direction, and at that point I can't help. Maybe it will work, maybe it won't. The 6MT clutches tend to be stronger than the 5MT equivalents so compare specs before you make up your mind.

f(x) calls a pizza parlor and asks for a medium pepperoni, delivered. The employee says, "I'm sorry, but we don't cater to functions." Yeah, I know. Really, really bad.

The cost was right around $100, and the part number is 41310AG040.

Quoting a couple things from earlier in the thread... A couple months ago I started getting clunk noises every time I started from a stop. Based on the posts above, I ordered the spec B rear diff mount, and I put it in last weekend, and it fixed the clunk noises. I gave it a couple of hard launches this evening and those were clunk free as well. EDIT: The clunks came back after a a while. I'm not sure exactly where they're coming from. Huge thanks to Citka for all the help with the installation, by the way! The stock diff bracket just barely contacts the underside of the diff, basically right in the center, between those two bolts that come out on the bottom. The spec B mount has a slightly wider and deeper notch around the 'spine' on the underside of the differential, so there is no contact, and no noise. I think that when I first installed the R160 bracket, the fit was tight enough that nothing moved around except when launching hard. But after enough of that abuse, some play developed, and every time the diff moved it would clunk. Bracket flex might have been a factor as well, as the R180 mount seems quite a bit stiffer around those two bolts on the underside - it's very stout piece of metal. I'm going to update the first post to point to this one, since between the three of us we've now got confirmed documentation about which part to use, and why.

Relevant to our interests? http://siliconfilter.com/openxc-ford-launches-an-open-source-platform-for-in-car-connectivity-and-apps-tip-techmeme/

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I wouldn't use anything but a laptop. I don't want to write a dissertation about it, but I will say that built-in power management makes a bunch of hassles go away. The key was to finding one that allows easy access to the power button wires. I have an HP 530, but I'm not sure what I'd use if I was starting over. It's like 1.6ghz or something... no good for gaming, but more than enough for navigation and data logging.

On second thought, it looks like there's more to the AT-to-MT swap than I thought: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/another-5eat-6mt-5mt-swap-questions-05-lgt-thread-132374.html The crossmember that supports the back of the AT doesn't bolt up to the chassis in the same places as the crossmember that supports the back of the MT. This can be fixed with a welder. The AT ECU gets confused when the TCU is missing, and it reports a CAN error on the trip meter. This might be fixable by flashing an MT ROM onto the AT ECU but that hasn't yet been tried. And of course the AT instrument cluster has the PRNDL thing on it. I suppose that's what DRoc to ask about swapping the cluster... I'd forgotten about that little difference. I guess I have to retract my earlier statement that he was over-thinking this, actually I was under-thinking it.

The way things are going in this thread, my next car might be a 5EAT LGT...

FWIW, I'm using a drive shaft from Driveshaft Specialist (aka Thrash Driveshaft), and it fit perfectly. I have no idea about the clutch, sorry.

You're over-thinking this. My 05 LGT + STI 6MT still has the original 05 LGT pedal assembly, gauge cluster, ecu, ignition switch, key, immobilizer, etc.

I would like my map-light mod: [_] With BIU killed [X] Without BIU killed I have a couple other little things in mind too... I'll call tomorrow. Plus there's that lunch thing we keep not doing.

I do know how to use a meter, I would love to have my map lights come on with my dome light, and in spite of following this thread since day one, I haven't tried it... because I'm afraid of killing my BIU.

Where do these BL5 & BL9 designations come from? I thought BL5 meant 2005 BL, but I've only seen it used once or twice. Does BL9 mean the BL chassis after the facelift with the swoopy headlights?

I'm guessing he means 2009 BL.

I mostly run it in auto mode, but I still can't turn it up more than halfway, otherwise mild throttle will cause it to bind in sharp corners. In manual mode, it will start to bind at a bit less than 25%. I was thinking of contacting him about this actually, it seems like only half of the range of the knob is actually usable. He mentioned that it's programmable but I haven't looked into that yet. Have you guys noticed that sometimes it will switch from auto to manual? It seems to happen somewhat consistently when the engine cranks longer than usual before starting.

I did. It took a few days, but I mined it all the way to the end. This might be the best thing since Kuvaton.com: http://www.tastefullyoffensive.com/

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