Bill G.
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Posts posted by Bill G.
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In the service section in the star link options you can add maintenance periods that will pop up when you hit a certain date or mileage. I’ve been using it for oil changes and it’s really convenient!
Yeah but that is just going to give you the required mileage of 6,000 for the oil/filter changes. If you ran synthetic oil, and took fairly long trips (over 20 miles all at once) you could go 10,000-12,000 miles on the Ford until it tells you to change it. And that oil change interval still keeps your warranty intact. It would be nice (and save me money) if all auto makers used that system.
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I love my '19 3.6R, white with black interior. Perfect combination of performance and utility. It's also a great looking car. No real problems, although it was delivered with a couple small dents in the door. Dent Doctor at the dealer took care of that. I'm 99% satisfied with my decision to buy it.
The only thing I do not like is that it has no "Oil life monitor", which based on type of driving, time, and mileage will tell you when to change the oil. The last two cars I had (Ford Fusions) had this feature. I was rather surprised that Subaru does not offer this feature.
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Your speedo would only be off by 1.5%. When your speedo indicates 70 MPH, you'd really be doing 71 MPH.
I don't remember the size differences, but I changed sizes from stock on my previous Civic for the same reason - to save money on tires and have better selection.
0.4" bigger. Won't affect a thing.
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Weird. I would not think 3mm would make that much difference. Maybe your camber is out of adjustment. A lot of miles on the car? Could be saggy springs too. I'm out of ideas!
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Since the 245/45R18 are the same dia. as your stock tires, that's not where the problem is. Since they are wider, the wheel offset becomes important. What is the offset of the wheels you got? Should be about 45mm.
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Thanks for the input. Going to a larger 18 in wheel too but the width increase I figured would help with the stability of the car as Bill G mentioned. I'm not sure I'm gonna go as far as to do the stabilizer mod so I figured if I have to get new tires that a tire width increase might be just enough for me to be happy enough with the stability of the car. I also hope the greater surface area leads to a tad more traction in snowy conditions. Would a slightly less wide tire but wider than stock make more sense? I. E. 235/55/18?
If this logic makes no sense please tell me. Won't get it done for another few days or week so can change the tire size I go with still.
235/50R18 will work. 10mm wider, and about 0.4" bigger in diameter than the stock tires. The 55-series tires will be much too tall.
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Dealer just put conventional oil in my 3.6R. (Far as I know there are very few cars that require synthetic.)
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This.
I swear people make shit up to sound smart.
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No, I didn't make anything up. I believe that most engines these days have some sort of hydraulic lifter, or cam-follower, to avoid having to adjust valves periodically. For example, I used to work on a lot of SOHC and DOHC Ford 4.6L and 5.4L V8s... they have hydraulic "lash adjusters" that can get noisy with age/wear. Even the newer 5.0L Ford DOHC engines use them. GM uses them in almost every DOHC/SOHC engine they have ever made. I'm not going to check to see who else uses them, but it's not like everybody uses the shim/adjustment like Subaru.
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Neither the H4 (FB25) nor the H6 (EZ36) engine uses hydraulic lifters. Valve clearance is adjusted manually, using hardened shims. Consult the Factory Service Manual.
That is surprising. I wonder how they get away with hardly ever needing adjustment. So the sound is just the injectors then? Because There is little else in an engine that makes those kind of "clattery" sounds.
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Hydraulic valve lifters need to pump up for a few seconds upon cold start. The longer the car sits, the longer it will take for the lifters to get full oil pressure. What you are hearing is a little bit of valve train noise due to excess clearance before the lifters are pressurized. It just lasts for a few seconds on my 3.6R.
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Yes, the wider/lower profile tires (245/40R19) make the car feel more stable.
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WD-40 will take it off. And unlike Goo-Gone, there is no way it'll hurt the clearcoat finish. I think Goo-Gone has too strong of a solvent. After you get the sticky crud off, give the wheels a nice coat of car wax.
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Curious if I turn it off, what other system does it impact?
I've had mine turned off since day one, and it does not impact the use, or operation of, of anything else.
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I went to town faire with new rims and wanted them to put new tires on them and I would put the tires and rims on my car and they refused for the same reason.
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Town Fair is the worst tire store on the planet! Find a locally-owned "Mom & Pop" tire store, or general repair shop. They usually will bend over backwards for the customer. At least that is what I've found around here.
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Has anyone had issues with lug nuts fitting on after market wheels?
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You're trying to use the stock lug nuts on aftermarket wheels? That will seldom work, because the stock nuts use a very large hex, and/or have some sort of flange that will not allow the nut to fit inside the counterbored holes of the wheels. Companies like McGard and Gorilla make lug nuts for "custom" applications.
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Here is my '19 3.6R with 245/40ZR19 General G-MAX RS mounted on 19x8, 45mm offset, MSW Type 71 wheels (machined w/grey accent). Otherwise all stock.
[Did you have trouble finding spline lug nuts which the socket fits the wheel hole?
No, Tire Rack sent me the right splined lug nuts, "Gorilla" makes them.
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YouTube is always a great source! Does this video work with your map lights? This is pretty much how I removed and replaced my lights. When you said your '19 map lights were hinged, I imagined them popping out on one side only and then be still attached somehow on the other side.
It looks like mine are about the same as shown in the video. Will check this out for sure within a few days, and let you know. I'm all tied up with my other project... getting the summer cruise "hot rod: ('69 Dodge Dart GTS) running a little better.
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Thanks to everyone. Somehow I never thought of checking YouTube! This one covers it!
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I dunno man. The manual makes it sound simple. They should pry open with a tool or screwdriver. This is right from the manual for a 19 Legacy..
Thanks for that reply. Too bad Subaru doesn't say which edge, or provide a diagram. I think I'll wait until someone else here has actually tried it! Also, it's too bad that know-it-alls like "Da Roo" can't actually post anything useful...
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Yes just cram a panel popper tool (the smallest you have)
I guess nobody understands what the reading/map lights near the rearview mirror are like on a '19 3.6R. The lenses are kind of hinged and you push down on one side to turn the lights on/off. I can't pry the lens our because they are hinged on one side, and I can guarantee you that something will break even if I could get a tool in there. I did get part of the housing off (where the sunroof switches are) but that doesn't help to get to the bulbs.
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I guess nobody has any real answers.
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Like the wheels. You ARE going to window tint that car, right? Right???
Thanks, but NO I doubt it.
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Here is my '19 3.6R with 245/40ZR19 General G-MAX RS mounted on 19x8, 45mm offset, MSW Type 71 wheels (machined w/grey accent). Otherwise all stock.
What's the furthest from home you've taken your Legacy
in Sixth Generation Legacy (2015 -2019 )
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