Pleides

1 hour ago, m sprank said:

Hmmmmm... the clutch false knock problem.  Usually caused by a LWFW.  If your using OEM even a OEM single mass should not be an issue.  Give everything a good look and maybe use a small mallett to tap around for anything loose or that resonates. Maybe its age related?  My body cracks all the time now. 

Given that it's a Subaru flywheel, can't imagine that would be the issue, but it's hard to say. Everything looks quiet buttoned up there, but I'm not going to pretend that I know everything there is to know about how it's supposed to look. 

I'm having a Fluidampr pulley put on at my next oil change. We'll see if it makes a difference for this situation. 

On 1/28/2023 at 1:36 PM, m sprank said:

Most intercooler gaskets are single use. There was a silicone/steel version that may or may not still be available. 

 

Yes, knock sensor hears the valve train. If you hit the trans housing with a wrench the knock sensor picks it up. 

 

Honestly never played with cold start high idle in anything other than a track car that I recall.   Easy enough to test and revert if other issues arrise. 

So it appears my knock sensor is triggered by whatever noise I get from my transmission when disengaging the clutch with high idle from cold starts. The car sees knock if I accidentally drop the clutch kind of hard as well, like revving up to 2K before letting the clutch completely off the floor. Not really sure how to solve that... Possibly with a heavier flywheel? Using an OEM clutch and flywheel from an 07 LGT.

On 2/5/2023 at 4:56 PM, BoozeRS05 said:

Been spending way too much money lately, but found a good deal on a used one of these today. Not sure if it’ll sit on my bench until my motor refresh or maybe I’ll throw it on sooner. 

Any updates on your experience with it yet?

5 hours ago, seanyb505 said:

unplug the small hose from the bpv and blow into it. Once you've got some lung power into it and you can't blow anymore, plug it with your thumb. Wait 5-10 seconds and let go. You should feel a small rush of air escaping. It's not fool proof, but like I said it's quick and could illuminate larger sizes issues. 

You really need to vacuum test these at like 1 bar because of the turbo. Breath ain't gonna get you there.

18 minutes ago, SilentJ20 said:

Western Washington.  There's a good shop nearby, PIA, that I'll try to get it into soon. Usually I'm a diy guy. But if this ends up needing professional help I understand.

They might be able to lend you a working MAF sensor or another member can let you borrow one to see if that helps with your issues. I had very similar issues to you when my first MAF when bad. Use only OEM Denso sensors. Aftermarket ones are an absolute no-go on a modified car, or really any turbocharged car.

23 hours ago, relative4 said:

How much harshness should one expect from the Group Ns?

I didn't notice any NVH differences until the valvetrain and turbo were on full tilt compared to my absolutely tossed OEM bushings which were replaced around 200K.

Bumping this from months ago. Still have them.

I'd have a speed shop boost leak test that car before driving it. Where are you located?

I suppose if you drive 5K per year and live in a harsher climate than I that 30K every accessory belt change makes sense. My car has 240K and has been well-maintained and I've generally done the factory recommended intervals for service on it with exception to the PCV valve, oil changes (every 3-3.5K) and plugs. Driving it 12-20K per year and changing it every 2 years has never crossed my mind. The car is at an age now, however, where accessories need to be replaced. Can't imagine I have infinite life left in my alternator, for example, and the belts will get changed then. Granted, I have no idea how long the life of a belt would be compared to a tire. At 6 years of age, my tires go by both mileage or age. I'd probably replace a belt if it's been 6-7 years regardless of mileage. 

My car spends 90% of it's life on the freeway. It generally lives an easy life. Just my experience, and if you want to change your belts more often or do maintenance more aggressively than I do with the original 5-speed still in my car and this being my only car, go ahead. Regardless, these cars are old enough to vote now. You pick your battles with what isn't "quite right" in the car's age.

2 hours ago, m sprank said:

Should be nothing wrong with Dayco, per say.  I just cant recommend them from a professional stand point.  But as I said previously, the best belt is the one you change on a regular maintenance interval (30k miles or sooner depending on the elements).

30K per belt? My accessory belts on my car were in decent shape at around 10 years and 100K old on my car when the engine was replaced at 214K. Maybe if you live in a more extreme climate but that would be a tremendous waste of rubber here in the PNW.

Oh, and to actually contribute to the topic: my belts are all Subaru OEM, if that helps. 

Found out the slowest tire leak in the world that I've had for months is actually a slightly bent wheel.... goddamn it. 

Also my sway bar bushings squeak is back but not in full force. Thinking the lube on them helped but it might be time to replace them as I drove on them dry for so long.

Surgeline changed my oil and lubed some bushings. NO MORE INCESSANT CREAKING ! The squeak was from the sway bar bushings. Thank heck nothing necessitated dropping parts of the car to fix it.

The rear door latch mechanisms are not the most sturdy on this car. Would recommend replacing the failed one if you get the door open.

1 hour ago, Febreze Mee said:

This I have also wondered!

Yeah, that guy was on one for certain. 
 

What were your mileage intervals between O2 sensor swaps? It just seems like they haven't lasted. I need to find out if there's a way to test/check the sensors before dropping $150 on a mew one. 
 

Taking the injectors from Nick's spare that I bought for $100 and more than likely sending them off, after a couple home science projects of course.

@kzr750r1I love my Moog endlinks. Meaty, and not as expensive as some of the other aftermarket options.  

I believe you can test them with a multimeter. I don't know the exact mileage that I've gotten out of them, though. Both failed without CELs, according to the one I replaced from the previous owner, and him telling me he had also recently replaced the O2 sensors before he sold me the car. Probably 30K miles maximum on the second one the car had. My third one (one I installed) is doing fine about 30K later.

Just woke up from a nap. Hope that was a comprehensible read.

Car is going to Surgeline on Thursday for an oil change. First oil change I've ever done on the car after more than 3000 miles! I've done a whole 3300 on the oil and I'm sure it's fine. 

Also having them lube the crossmember and front sway bar/endlink bushings. I've had the nastiest squeak from my car when it's driven for more than a few minutes for a little while now and I'm going insane. Hoping that a little lube without dropping everything from the car will solve it, but I don't have the highest hopes.

I swear that, at some point, that I had Surgeline install Whiteline subframe bushings at some point. However, after going through every single receipt for work done on my car, I just do not see records for that. I also have no record of ever purchasing the bushings myself... Just steering rack bushings, rear diff bushings, crossmember bushings, the Kartboy endlinks, the bushings included with the sway bars, and shift bushings.... Are any of these more apt to cause a frustrating rocking chair creak over bumps than others?

My starter isn't original and my car hasn't even seen weather as cold as yours. Definitely not a bad idea to replace the battery and see if that starter comes to life after 5 seconds of cranking or so. If not then don't drain the new battery and go out and get a new starter. Might also be worth giving the starter a tap.

Car is going to Surgeline on Thursday for an oil change. First oil change I've ever done on the car after more than 3000 miles! I've done a whole 3300 on the oil and I'm sure it's fine. 

Also having them lube the crossmember and front sway bar/endlink bushings. I've had the nastiest squeak from my car when it's driven for more than a few minutes for a little while now and I'm going insane. Hoping that a little lube without dropping everything from the car will solve it, but I don't have the highest hopes.

I swear that, at some point, that I had Surgeline install Whiteline subframe bushings at some point. However, after going through every single receipt for work done on my car, I just do not see records for that. I also have no record of ever purchasing the bushings myself... Just steering rack bushings, rear diff bushings, crossmember bushings, the Kartboy endlinks, the bushings included with the sway bars, and shift bushings.... Are any of these more apt to cause a frustrating rocking chair creak over bumps than others?

On 2/4/2023 at 11:06 AM, MadamImAdam said:

I changed to a new set of tires, this time in a size better suited to the WRX wheels that are on the car, 225/45/17s. The 245/50/17s were awful with the huge sidewall. Also had the gear oil changed to motul, shifting is much smoother!
Was thinking to change out the factory cat back exhaust for something that is more free flowing and a bit louder. But the air injection pump has been deleted and block-off plates were installed on the head. It's on a Cobb AccessPort v2 currently. What is involved in re-tuning it for an exhaust? Thanks!

No tuning needed for a catback. Pretty much anything else on this car requires a tune, however. Outback exhausts are a bit tricky to come by, it seems. Nameless is the only company I've ever heard of that appears to make one.

19 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

Performed a valve adjustment yesterday. Cyl 3 rockers had no play at top dead center (TDC). Adjusted, and gained about 30psi on a compression test. If I remember correctly were sitting at 120/130ish now. Misfire and it's code are gone. I threw some Berryman's B12 in the fuel tank and filled up last night. I've put 60mi on the car and all is good for now, save for the P0420 code that came back. I'm suspecting a dirty duel filter, but will verify tomorrow or Tuesday. 
 

Heading down to Portland to have dinner with @Pleides this evening, so I can put miles on the newly -adjusted valves and clean off any carbon deposits laid on the stems so they can seat better. I'll recheck compression and valve adjustment early this week again in case we gaij more compression back and the valves adjust themselves further after burning off any gunk on them.

 

P0420 is for a system too lean, usually from an O2 sensor. My front O2 sensor has been replaced twice, FWIW. My original sidefeed injectors were also toast when they were replaced a year or two ago with my 1050X. Might be worth removing the injectors to have a shop clean and flow test them. I believe there's a shop in Spokane that can help you with that.

Good times seeing ya yesterday, even if that weird homeless guy decided to walk into Lardo xD

I'll sub! Curious as well.

36 minutes ago, Scottydunno said:

@Pleidesyou think I'm hearing normal noise just amplified by worn bushings? Would make sense since the noise has gotten worse in the year, not to mention sitting as a weekend car for about 3 months.. 

My bushings are tossed under the car for the subframe and crossmember bushings because I didn't realize, at the time they were installed, that they need regular greasing and that a ton of car has to be removed to lube them. Now my front diff/trans is super loud even though the fluid levels are fine and the fluid is in good shape. I definitely regret the urethane bushings and wish I had kept those OEM.

If you wanna be sure, check the fluid in the diff. I'd bet it's fine. Also, potentially check the wheel bearings?

I know the 5-speed is quite noisy and I'd assume the split case 6 speed is much the same. Could just be the way the car is in the cold until the fluid is hot.

1 hour ago, Scottydunno said:

@xt2005bonbonI'm getting a grumbly/growl type of sound on decel and off throttle coast in 1st and 2nd. No gear whine or anything. 

@Pleidesstock high mileage bushings! Nothing fancy yet.

Worn out bushings could also be the culprit.

Did you install super hardcore crossmember bushings when you did the transmission swap? Might be time to drop the subframe and lubricate them and see if your noise subsides.

53 minutes ago, m sprank said:

2000rpm and only when cold?  Only when driving on road not rollers?  Something that heats up, expands and quiets?  Subaru (especially turbo cars) knock sensors are very finicky about postion and torque.  Otherwise they are just a microphone picking up noises.  Remove hood, have friend lay across engine with stethoscope over knock sensor while you drive and log.  Hand signals to communicate noises and knock counts.   Shit we used to do to troubleshoot, lol. 

Part of me wonders why I never asked my tuner to remove the high cold start idle. I have an aftermarket cat but it would get up to temp just driving. I'm willing to bet it would solve my issues. The knock sensor can pick up valvetrain noise from a cold start, right? 

I'm currently holed up at home on a very cold day (snow is potentially in the forecast for my neck of the woods) but I'll see if I can get my car in the shop at work tomorrow and check out the knock sensor. I can't remember - are the intercooler gaskets single-use? Been a minute since I removed it to do anything.

7 minutes ago, m sprank said:

I picked up false knock from a failing front sway bar endlink. 

 

That was my own car and I posted about it. But the thread was probably from 2009, lol. 

This has been an issue since I purchased the car. I've replaced every single component on this car by now, including OEM worn out endlinks with Kartboy ones, ha! The car has 240K on it and nearly nothing it came with when I bought it in 2018 with 200K.

The previous owner told me that the hesitation started as soon as he modified and tuned the car. He did TGV deletes and a turboback exhaust as well as a Perrin inlet. I've had it tuned by two other shops and neither has been able to trace the source of the stutter, so I'm kind of just stuck with it. I'll see if I can get an eyeball on the sensor but my assumption is that the PNW climate has been relatively kind to it and that it won't have any cracks or issues like that. 

5 hours ago, Underdog said:

That's a pretty solid clue right there - if it only happens when the car is cold and moving. I'm assuming you've checked the sensor itself? Tightened it down, looked at the wiring, etc.?

Yeah, I mean the whole engine was removed from the car two years ago so barring replacement of the sensor it all looks and performs like it should. Given it has no issues with tuning on a dyno I would assume Surgeline would have let me know that something was wrong with it if it had issues. I suppose I could replace it but I strongly suspect it works fine.