Pleides

2 hours ago, buppus said:

The Driver's side blend actuator is 72131AG27A. I'm leaving the passenger side alone for the time being.

Luckily for you the passenger side is substantially easier to get to. There are three actuators all in the same place so while you have the kick panel out, mess with the climate control settings and watch all three do their magic. You can drive around with the interior somewhat pulled apart for a couple days while you wait to replace any extra parts you found dead. As a bonus, you can finally replace that cabin air filter you've probably never replaced!

4 hours ago, drewmandrew99 said:

Alright update time! I think I need a new ecu so hitting up the old scrap yard. Got together with a tuner Saturday to try to open source tune the car. After multiple attempts we finally got it to read the stock map for the car after getting com port errors over and over which was weird but then when attempting to flash a new map onto the ecu were hit with a 'j2534' error and the flash would stop but the car stayed cycling in diagnostic mode. We made sure the COBB AP was unmarried by installing it again and unmarrying it a second time but still no luck. The car is a 2009 and we were using ecu definitions for the 2007 however I did notice that when pairing the COBB AP it identifies ecu as 2008-2009 so i'm also wondering if the 2009 model has separate ecu definitions from the 2007.

Yes, the 2009 is a whole facelift with, I believe, different emissions systems than earlier cars (EGR?) as well as traction control that can't be turned off (I think it can in your 07). My car is an 05 so apologies for guessing on a couple points here. You should get an ECU from a 2007 MY car. What was wrong with your old ECU to necessitate replacing it? A P0420 code is not a symptom of a bad ECU. 

You would need a hub adapter or a few other parts swapped (I believe the knuckles, entire brake set, and axles and rear diff?). This is a common conundrum during 6-speed swaps. Using almost any STi transmission creates this conversion as a requirement. You're gonna be paying out the ass for STi brakes, more likely than not. It isn't worth it. 

Yes, you will have a check engine light at the very least if you don't.

24 minutes ago, ssbtech said:

Is something wrong with yours I wonder?  I've always been able to turn the A/C on with heat to accelerate drying of the interior air.

The A/C can come on with the heat if you let auto climate control do its thing or if you use the defrost. I may be wrong but I don't think you can get the heat on full blast on just your face or feet with the A/C on in manual mode.

1 hour ago, silverton said:

quick test is to swap the AC relay with the one right next to it, which iirc is a fan relay, i'd pick the main fan vs sub fan as the sub fan should still engage with the AC button on whether the compressor is running or not. AC defaults to on in either of the windshield defrost modes, and can be turned off on face/feet. the A/C can be turned on and off no matter what temperature is selected when in face/feet mode.

Perhaps on your car. It doesn't work this way on my 05 LGT wagon.

Set auto climate control to 65 degrees. Does it come on? A/C does not come on these cars unless using auto climate control and the temperature is 74 or less (given appropriate weather outside) or the manual climate control is set to 65 degrees on both sides of the car with the A/C on. No, it doesn't make sense to me either. I thought my A/C was broken because of this and it turns out that using auto climate control is the best way to get A/C on without having it set to 65.

37 minutes ago, seanyb505 said:

Ship car to Aussie, do cross country trip there! Subarus are from Australia after all lol

I mean hey, if we're setting money on fire here...

242K here. I'm driving about 12K per year if my math is correct. I'm hoping to hit 300K! Debated between doing a cross-country road trip or visiting Australia as a grad gift to myself when I'm through with college finally and ultimately opted for the latter. Perhaps that cross-country trip will be a 300K gift to my car!

3 hours ago, max_bobby said:

I'm at 249,000 miles. Still on the original turbo.  

Man.. that's pretty impressive? Guessing ya took out the banjo bolt filters? Stock?

2 hours ago, tysparks81 said:

Wait till the weather warms up and you can really warm up the tire

Yesterday was pretty toasty compared to today where we got a glimmer of snow in the morning. Climate change and the weather in Oregon definitely is pretty wacky nowadays. Driving around at mundane speeds in the rain and I don't think I can seriously feel much of a difference between my old tires apart from the fact that these are louder and initial steering effort is heavier. I'm very excited for some warmer weather though!

2 hours ago, drewmandrew99 said:

Also from contacting various tuners off of cobbs pro tuner list ive found none of them so far are willing to tune out this code. if anyone knows of software i could use to import the cobb map into and edit to remove the code? not even sure if thats a posibility but yk.

Open source software is the way to go here. I don't particularly care to name the software as I do think the EPA monitors a lot of these forums these days (not to sound too conspiratorial but you can see why we'd hesitate to mention it, right?) but the stuff is out there. Tuners do not tune this code out anymore because the EPA has a heavy hand when dealing with these tuning shops. Your best bet is to return the downpipe if possible and get a Gesi catted one from Cobb or Grimmspeed. The code will always come up regardless of the weather with no catalyst but cold weather may tend to increase it's propensity to give you a warm amber glow. 

I'm not sure how you managed to actually come across a catless downpipe these days unless you bought it used but hey, that's the risk you take buying a used part. Also, the inclusion of a Gesi cat is not always a 100% success rate for eliminating that code, but it helps. Leaving your factory TGVs alone as well as any other emissions systems will help you there. 

Also, FYI, constantly resetting the code will prevent your car from being "emissions testing ready" when doing DEQ or whatever equivalent you have in Michigan. 

On 3/18/2023 at 9:45 PM, drewmandrew99 said:

Alright fellas I bought a 2009 subaru legacy 2.5gt that had a cobb downpipe and exhaust when I bought it, installed the stage 1 tune off cobbs website, now I'm getting the P0420 code which sends the car into limp mode and I have to re-flash the ecu. The code is for catalytic converter however the car does now have a catalytic converter anymore. How fix?

This is probably something you should have done a bit more research before committing to doing. With Green Speed changes for Cobb, they no longer tune out catalytic converter-related codes. You need a Gesi downpipe with a CARB compliant catalytic converter.

I got my PS4S on yesterday. Wow, amazing steering feel right off center and insane levels of grip. My Falkens definitely didn't hold the grip around corners like these do! They might actually be a bit louder than the Falkens? Hard to say, but I do really quite like these on this car. 

On 3/20/2023 at 5:00 PM, Jolbaru_LGT said:

The worn out Indy 500s were kinda freaky in the rain. I hydroplaned a few times enough to warrant wanting new tires. But I should have expected that, as they were almost slicks. 
Im fine with super high performance on this car. I think it’s going to be more of a weekend racer, now that I’m getting an old Lexus es300 for a DD. which that one has newer all season tires on it. 

Indy 500s are notoriously weak in their category in the rain. My Falken FK510s were phenomenal in the rain, and we get a decent amount of it here in Oregon! Low tread definitely won't help there.

2 hours ago, Jolbaru_LGT said:

I guess Best is what I'm looking at? Can't really put a price on nice tires, right? It's the most important thing on a car. Now, would the Pilot Sport 4S be good in the rain? 
I'm looking for 3 season, early spring to late fall. I don't think I'll ever not have snow tires. But when there's a cold downpour, I don't want them to get all squirrley/spooky. The Indy 500's I had a blast with until they got kinda baldish. Now I found myself just grandma driving because I couldn't afford to bald them out and replace them. Fun tires, sure, But I'm not made of money to just trash them and replace them every season. But with that being said; I do like to have a little fun every now and then. Until I can afford to replace the engine with a built one and track race it, it's going to be a high mileage DD. So, safe driving with the option of dusting a BMW/'Vette/911/STI every now and then. 
Hope that helps?

Super high-performance summer tires are better in the rain than any other category of tire. They stop quicker and they can corner with more G-force without slipping. 

Modern high performance all season tires like the Michelin AS4 can pull higher G-forces around a corner than an UHP summer tire per Tire Rack's categorization of tires and only barely lose on stopping distance. I'm in a similar boat right now.

If you're OK with a lesser summer tire, the General G-Max RS has a great set of rebates right now if you check that out on Tire Rack. The Goodyear Eagle Exhilarate is also on sale right now and it's an all-season performance tire. It's around the same price on Tire Rack after rebates. Michelin also has a $110 rebate on PS4S so I'll be grabbing those this week.

I'm coming from a set of Falken FK510 that have suffered underinflation damage and some dry rot (guess who overused silicon-based tire shine... oops) so they need to go. Absolutely zero complaints with them for the time I had them. I swear the Michelin AS3+ I had before had a higher grip limit though.

30 minutes ago, m sprank said:

Why do you need to monitor these things?  For troubleshooting???  You dont monitor every day for troubleshooting.  You monitor if/when there is an issue.  So, an oil pressure gauge can be temporarily installed (for less than $50) for troubleshooting if needed.  If your losing oil you should know it.  Check your dipstick periodically.  Fuel pressure gauge can be easily added for temp troubleshooting as well (less than $50).  You do not need to monitor oil temp, just dont be a fool.  If it is that cold outside chances are road conditions do not permit "flogging it".  There might not be snow, but you cant see ice. 

Boost gauges are the most distracting of all.  I have never ridden in a force inducted car with a boost gauge that the driver was not watching.  Why??? 

You wont be able to convince me and you wont be able to come up with an excuse that over rides common sense.  Saying drivers with gauges are better is ludicrous.  All devices except radios should be outlawed as studies have shown that your brain can listen to a the radio and drive, but you lose focus as soon as it becomes a conversation.  In some states aftermarket gauges are illegal for this exact reason - DISTRACTION.  There are enough distractions and distracted drivers already.  Gauges are no better than cell  phones, video screens, etc.   

There are BT devices that can be used to send the ecm data to a logging device that is stored safely and not being watched.  You can make your own "black box" rather cheaply is you need to be able to revisit the data. 

I admit that when I was in high school I though a bevy of gauges was cool too and my Professional Race Driver dad told me I was an idiot.  Dad was not always right, we rarely agree on anything these days.  But... he was right about gauges.  All I need is a speedo and a tach.  Race on a bike and you will learn. 

 

Every day is not a shake down.  Your car is either ready to drive or not. 

This seems weirdly outrage-y to me. Should we start removing coolant and fuel gauges from cars because they're "distracting?" What about odometers? Are those distracting on cars since they update while the car is moving?

I agree that huge screens and stuff are distracting and that people should get off their phones but double-checking your speed on your way through a school zone takes your eyes off of the road for the same amount of time as checking your oil temperature. 

30 minutes ago, shralp said:

Why not just monitor boost and water temp with your AP?  

It's something that is a potential theft magnet being stuck on the dash or wherever and the coolant temp isn't super important to me as the dummy gauge does a good enough job of letting me know when things are working as intended. I leave the AP in the armrest. If it did oil temp I might consider it but the hardware isn't there for the AP to read.

59 minutes ago, m sprank said:

Why do you need this?  If you spend your driving time looking at gauges, AP's,  phones. etc. you are obviously NOT PAYING ATTENTION TO THE ROAD.  Do you think race cars have all these gauges?  LOL. 

You have a coolant temp gauge on the cluster.  You have an oil pressure light on the cluster.  If your coolant temp is up, your oil temp is up too. 

This is all "Fast and the Furious" BULL SHIT that no car needs.  It is also dangerous to the general public if you are looking at gauges driving instead of the road.  A REAL race car does not have gauges.  They have dummy lights.  Dummy light comes on, shut it down.  Data logger tells what happened later. 

 

My two cents.  Its your money, spend it as you wish. 

For me I just wish we had a boost gauge and oil temperature sensor. Former for troubleshooting and the latter for knowing when I can step on it. The Audis I drive at work almost all have oil temp sensors and it takes far longer than the coolant getting up to temp for those to even register the minimum temp on that gauge of I think 140(?) F, like roughly twice as long in the winter. That's with 0W-20. Not sure how a modern engine with such thin oil gets up to temperature compared to our old EJs but just food for thought. I always wait until the coolant has been up to temp for at least a couple minutes before I seriously flog the car. 

Leave your car stock until you're 200% certain that everything on it works and it's in good shape. If the car is rusty then I'd suggest not investing any money into modding it. It's an 18-year old car. My car has 241K on it and I've replaced more parts than you can imagine, sometimes by myself and sometimes though my shop. These were not tremendously cheap cars to keep running new and they're definitely not now. Change the oil every 3-4K miles, make sure your suspension bushings are in good shape (they aren't based on age alone if they haven't been replaced in the last 5 or 6 years), make sure your axles are in good shape (the right front one probably leaks) and make sure your wheel bearings are good. After that, keep the car clean inside and out and be proud of it, THEN start modifying it. If all you want is for the car to be lower then sure, Riceland coilovers will do you fine, but the car will ride like shit, handle worse than stock, and those COs will last a year or two before they're completely blown. 

Also, only @Febreze Meereally touched on it, but there are much better things to do with your money in high school. I know that this won't stop you from spending money on an old Subaru, but if I get to yell at clouds... 

Edit: just checked from the post history - you're in Massachusetts. I am 100% certain your car has a decent amount of rust.

42 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

Is the (now-unavailable) home pro-tuning software *that* much different from the normal Accessport manager?

I turned off the auto-update on mine as soon as I head whispers of the coming changes to Cobb AP, so I am still able to connect to the internet while using the software, but it is all still pre Green Power updates.

Genuinely curious, since if I ever needed, I would drive to NY for a tune, it's not that far. And there would be no tracing work like that back across the border in a no-emissions testing province!

Good question! I don't know the answer but hopefully someone here does.

18 hours ago, Tehnation said:

So.... cobb is still on the table! I found a place to get my tune, not going to drop any information, cause its that serious these days, but it looks like as long as the shop didn't upgrade their software and use old versions they can still rock and roll! Cause now that I'm thinking about it my tune works with my cobb which has had firmware updated within the past year I believe, so as long as the tuner can use old cobb software,  ... screw this tgv noise lol

The software requires being connected to the internet to work so I'm not sure how they did this, but congrats!

12 minutes ago, Max Capacity said:

I know it's a 2008 with low miles, but I think you guys are pricing it very high. It's just a 2.5i.

 

Was the timing belt ever replaced at 10 years old ? 

Here in Oregon it would sell for 12K without trouble. No rust to see here!

The problem with an old Subaru of the dreaded era of head gasket failures is that they're basically all worthless to a point unless they've already had the heads done. I'd recommend listing it on Craigslist and Facebook marketplace at 12 grand and seeing what someone will pay for it. This is assuming it has zero rust.

16 hours ago, Tehnation said:

Luckily for my state cels and visual inspections of cats are the only thing that can fail you. I thought my state was going crazy like the rest but in reality not really. EFI Logics is in Connecticut which is close to me like an 1-2 hrs depending on how you drive, but their state and or them being tuners brought down the hammer, so now they play by the book, which is still pretty functional, basically like you said about the hi eff cats they can run better than stock but they just have to do it while not triggering any cels which is easy cause its like u said more efficient. I have passed inspection for years with my tgv codes turned off, looks like california is still the only super hardcore place where cars are literally made differently from the rest of the country, its either a USDM car or a USDM CALI car.

..... so basically I just gotta go to a state that doesn't give a fck about CARB and get a tune..... which is actually a lot when I look at this map! 

So if only 17 out of 50 do carb, and to varying degrees because not everyone is as hardcore as cali.

hmmmm I think I might just have to take a road trip somewhere cause fck this! 

Actually I think we are being paranoid. I forgot about math, 17 out of 50 isn't much and look at the states that don't have it.... good luck taking their cars away let alone their guns lol. The entire south basically said fck you! 

It looks like all you have to do is find a red state 

Most new OEM cars are manufactured for stateside with California emissions standards and have been for 30 years or so. 

I'd think your best bet would be to avoid Cobb stuff as much as possible from here on out. My tuner exclusively tunes with Accessport software and has not been doing catless downpipes for years. They're in Portland and are doing fine. I think this particular aspect with topfeed conversions unfortunately affects a small enough group of people with older cars that it's kind of a nothing burger. You'll want to tune open source, that's my guess. Learn it yourself or find someone who will do it for ya and throw the receipt away.