SBT

You might want to pull your ABS wheel sensor to ensure your hub bearing assembly isn't rubbing back there.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5910030&postcount=512

All good with the brake rebuild?

98 should certainly curb any pinging from too little octane. I run 93 E10 or 87 E0, both seem to work equally well. But that's on the restrictive USDM tuning. 93 is the highest we get here locally on the East Coast. It was 91 E10 at best, on the West Coast.

Are you planning to remove the cats as well?

When I was planning to build my own PC oven, ISTR that I was shooting for a 250*F max output.

And, I guess I was thinking of CK as somewhat comparable Swaintech's White Lightning coating where it's put on in molten ceramic state and allowed to cool to .015in thick vs typical ceramic coatings which are about .002in thick.

ST WL is very rough and very hard, you really have to use a grinding wheel and attack it with great vigor and you'll hardly have made a minor scuff in the coating before you run out of time, wheels, and energy.

FWIW, any coating will crack if the metal substrate expansion rate is greater than the coating expansion rate. ST WL coating is rated at/above 3,000*F, but can still crack if the metal substate is expanding too rapidly.

No lift here. That's with the car on ramps and me on the asphalt.

 

Also anyone have the torque specs for the header fasteners handy? Going to re-torque today and check for exhaust leaks.

29.5 lbft

I soaked it in acetone/ATF mixture for a many hours, used 2 different O2 sockets, the box end of a 7/8 box wrench, a pair of vice grips and a hammer. None of this budged it whatsoever.

 

The O2 sockets were just opening up at the slot for the wire and were absolutely useless.

 

I had to chisel off the small heat shield in order to properly reach the flats with the box wrench. In the end, the mapp gas and a long 7/8 box wrench did the trick.

 

As for the plug for the O2 sensor, I seem to remember TiC having to procure a harness extension. (even though BMB said it fit but barely) I never had to mess with this O2 sensor before that rebuild so I cannot say for certain what I have now. I'll look again when I get home tonight.

 

What really chaps my hide is I didn't have a new set of exhaust gaskets and will likely have to pull my headers again to replace the gaskets I reused. :spin:

Wow! That's a lot of work. Hopefully you had it in the air and didn't have to do that on your back on the ground.

I used a small amount of KOPR-KOTE SS-30 antiseize and thread lubricant on the threads before I installed the new sensor.

I'm going to look into the sensor extender. Just looking at the angle and the loss of physical length, even before getting it into the engine bay, it seems like the extender is the way to go unless there's "signal" issues with it.

And I understand there may be as at least one Master Tech mentioned that there's resistance calcs built into the ECUs tables. Haven't looked further into it, so post up if anyone has additional info on this.

Fought this sucker for a full day and a half.

 

Ended up removing my holy headers and using a mapp gas torch and fairly large pipe wrench.

 

Also learned that the Tokyo Roki oil filter barely fits with the HH. About 1mm of clearance cannot be healthy.

 

Looks a bit carboned-up/oily or is that just release fluid?

Did you use a sensor socket on it, or just an open-ended wrench/ WV socket set?

BTW - the TR AA100 and the TR Mazda RX8 filters fit perfectly with the HH once I took off the DEFI Sandwich Adapter for the OP and the OT sensors. Otherwise, there were impingement issues.

Don't know whether your are wrapped, or Swaintech or other coating, but if the former, that's likely taking up some room. Plenty of clearance with the ST coating.

FWIW - I rehomed the OP sensor to the back left (from the front) oil galley, and the OTsensor to the 2nd KB Extended Oil Pan port. Had to buy an adapter for that.

Also, any issues with running the front O2 sensor wiring though stock engine mount points to the stock connection point by the ABS pump? Haven't got the engine back in yet, but it looks like the angle that the HH puts the O2 sensor, the wiring may come up a bit short, or not mount to the valve cover points on the way to the connection.

The bad news is that my creaking steering noise persists. I thought it was strut related but it must be related to the control arm. Need a new set of cotter pins and will retighten the ball joint and tie rod. If that doesn’t help I’m at a loss.

 

My confidence in driving will be much better once this noise is gone. Odd thing is, it happens when I brake and reaccelerate... IE stop and go traffic with no change in steering angle. I’m thinking it might be the front control arm bolt not being tight enough...

Presume you've checked your front and rear lower control arm bushes to make sure that that's not the source of your creaking. Particularly at the rear bushes, as tears there, or compromised poly bushes, if you've upgraded can cause fore and aft as well as some lateral movement on straight-ahead stop/go driving. Sounds like something is loading/unloading and my bet would be on the LCA and/or the BJ points.

5.12" - 5.31"*, geez, can't even get some decent help around here!

 

 

In all honesty thank you for that response - I didn't even know what a clevis was. I looked it up in the manual and found the proper section on pedal adjustment. I'm gonna experiment with that a little bit keeping in mind what you said about zero tension.

 

 

I like the bleeder as I don't like having to bother people for an otherwise two man job. Some pointers if you do get it:

 

 

1. I like to prime the tube with fluid before hooking it up to the reservoir in order to introduce less air. However priming the tube can be a little tricky, the fluid will continue to fill the tube even after you stop pumping. I made a bit of a mess as a result.
   
2. You will need to use the second gasket included in the Asian/Ford kit. The one that comes installed on the cap won't hold pressure reliably.
   
3. The cap does not fit on the clutch reservoir, only the brake.
   

 

 

 

Are you referring to (F) in the attached picture? I didn't notice whether it was on or off today, I'm the fourth owner of this car. What purpose does this damper serve.

 

 

Back to what I did to by 4th Gen. today, I also sleeved my oil press./temp. sensor wires to make them more abrasion resistant and salvaged my oil press. sensor with new Deutsch connectors.

I also use the Motive bleeder, but made an adapter cap for my clutch. Any small threaded fitting with a hose fitting on the other end, screwed and glued into the top of a spare clutch cover works. It pressure-fills, the same way as the brake master cylinder. I had a spare oil pressure switch adapter that I had purchased to prefill the engine before reinstall. Worked perfectly.

Checked your stroke measurement because I was literally just reviewing that to get Subenwagen back together with the least amount of back-and-forth after the 6MT Spec B upgrade.

The measurements you mentioned above, are the same ones that I'm using since it's for both the NA 5MT and the Spec B 6MT.

If it were a standard FI 5MT, the measurement is 5.31 - 5.51 in, which is considerably different.

If you do any adjustments, make sure your clevis turns freely when the clutch is at full rest. Otherwise, your adjustment is off.

Infosec: what's the shelf life on Rotella T6? I always thought most oils had a shelf life of around 3-5 years. If so, the only answer is to get another LGT to double your yearly oil change count

Oh, I didn't consider that... I guess I need a couple more then just to be safe

Just make it an even half-dozen.

All this talk about pulling caliper pistons... I was always good with my hands (to hold in one piston to force the other out) and a bike pump hooked up to the adapters that come with my bleeding kit vacuum hand pump. I guess I'm lucky I've never had to resort to wood, bench vices, air compressors, etc

I did mine on a bench with a standard issue air nozzle, and about 120psi of pressure. Right out. I have empathy for those whose brakes and bits are corroded ath, but enough air pressure and rust desolver if seized, and there's no reason you can't get them out.

What's wrong with the sunroof and how hard is this to pull?

Any salvageable parts off it you'd be willing to ship?

Rebuilding brake calipers - compressed air not doing the trick to push out the pistons. Can't get a good seal. Any tips?

If you haven't "picked" the dust seals loose, do that - careful not to scrape the piston. Then spray some PBB or Kroil into the piston area on the front side and spray some into the caliper through the brake line port, and let it sit.

To create a good air seal, put a small ridge of twine or floss, 1/8-1/4" high or so around your air "tip" about where it would fit in the caliper - this is presuming a tapered tip.

Then starting on the outlet side, wrap electrical tape around your tip, and continue to wrap backwards over the ridge. You're trying to create a flange-like pressure point seal, like a fuel line, to push against the caliper brake line port and seal your air.

Put your calipers in a bench vise, with some thicker wood in place of the pads to cushion the initial piston movement and to balance the pistons as they come out of the bores, moving to smaller thickness wood to allow them to come all the way out. Make sure you wear hand and eye protection.

Then put the air to it, 120-150psi if you can manage it. If one piston moves, but the other doesn't drive a wedge into the back side of the wood block on the moving piston side so that it can't move, but the other piston can, and put the air to it again. The other side should start to move. Coat any exposed piston surfaces and push them back in the bores, and keep at it with the wood and air. Use wedge pieces if one side is moving but the other doesn't or stops.

They should pop out with just air pressure.

Edit: See that you have it out already.

I assume all of these parts are "go to the dealer" sort of parts, yeah? I'd love to replace all of these hoses/gaskets before I put the motor back in, but with the process of having to look up every individual part number, ensure fitment, and then figure out where the cheapest dealer is after shipping (or pick-up, if it's local), I just haven't been motivated enough. I haven't seen a need to replace the heater hoses or the coolant hoses on the back side of the motor, to the turbo and turbo reservoir, etc., but a lot of the vacuum lines could use replacing. There aren't any "kits" that include all the hoses, are there?

If your car has seen winter salt/chemicals, I'd replace the heater hoses and the hard coolant pipes as well. I'd be confident that the vacuum and decktop coolant lines have seen enough heat cycles to be brittle, swollen, or cracked. And definitely do your CO coolant pipe gaskets. That thing is a royal PITA in-car...less so when on a stand.

And, I bought fuel-certified silicone line in 4, 6, 8, 8, and 12mm sizes IIRC, then cut to fit and used Oetiker clamps for all the vacuum lines. I did buy factory replacement fuel lines and install those while I had the IM off the car. Used Oetiker clamps on those too.

Agreed, having just done something very similar to that in my driveway; that's a lot of hours.

Also having gone through this, $3-4,000 would seem a reasonable estimate (predicated on an $80-90/hr rate) , for everything - parts and labor.

BTW, change out all your coolant and vacuum lines, including the hard mount pieces and the gaskets on your coolant cross over pipe, and your oil cooler...would also replace the oil cooler if it's high mileage and unknown provenance.

Do the rear vapor barrier as well since the engine is out. Might as well do the pilot bearing in the flywheel too. Definitely replace the heater and radiator hoses, inclung everything to/from the turbo coolant tank.

Inspect your AC and your PS lines while it's apart and replace as necessary.

She's alive!

I missed the sweet song of the Stromung...

 

Based on research, I decided to try "The Right Stuff" to help seal up that hole on the lower starter bolt.

Put in about 1/2" plug, then ran a bead down the threads, pushed the bolt in.

Tighten it down and left it to cure for a few hours.

 

DHL finally showed up with my NGK coils from RockAuto. Learned that NGK coils are made by Diamond just like OEM

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Not the exact same number, but the car is happy with them.

 

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Got it all back together, filled and burped the cooling system, no leaks

Idled it for 15 min, fans came on, no leaks of any fluid.

 

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Put the covers back on and ran an errand to the storage garage where 99% of my stuff is right now...

 

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Needs a bath pretty badly. She'll get one today.

Holy cow, that clutch!

Completely different feel than my almost dead OEM DM setup.

It's heavy, but not too heavy.

I'm loving the feel of the SB Stage 3 Daily.

I love that it has a solid engagement period, no slipping.

You know as soon as it starts to grab, because it's not letting go.

Wow, my tired stock was slush compared to this.

 

It's going to take me a bit to get used to driving this, but some shifts are already seamless; I love it.

Motor is running smooth, no misfires what so ever.

Everything feels so tight/new. The driver's seat has only 1/3 of the butt time my old one did, it feels really nice and firm.

 

List of changes:

- 88k Long Block

- 88k 5mt tranny (4.44)

- 88k Rear diff

- JDM TGV delete

- Reman Starter

- New NGK plugs (one step colder)

- New NGK/Diamond coils

- Intake from 202k engine

- 88k Power Steering pump (no leaks)

- Timing Service w/ Water Pump

- 4k SB Stage 3 Daily w/ SM Flywheel

- Full black interior swap (inc. dash)

 

In case anyone was wondering, you can pull the engine and transmission at the same time, you just need to put the car up on jack stands so you have the room to really tip the tail down. Removing the exhaust manifold helps with clearance on the A/C cooler. It's pretty tight, you have to watch it closely, but it can be done. Highly recommend having a second person with you to help watch and push things.

 

I'm glad to be done and driving again. Doing this in my in-laws driveway was a bit nerve-wracking. Plus, next week I start getting ready to teach Comp Sci in the fall. Thanks for the all the help, suggestions, etc. One of these days I just need to make a build thread and stop cluttering up the "what did you do today"

Well done!

Hope to join you very soon in the realm of the selfsustained 4 cycle goodness amplified by that wonderful Stromung tonal goodness.

Never heard of that. What's it for?

It's what's recommended for lubing the clutch pivot shaft and slave cylinder to pivot shaft contact point on the 6MT. I think the Conoco Phillips Red #2 is a substitute, but don't want to buy 10 tubes.

I've been sending samples on every oil change since I got the built motor. According to the samples the engine took approximately 15k to break in.

Same on the 05 LGT. This was my first OCI on the 14 OB on Subaru's 5W30 Idemitsu Full Synth, and the first opportunity to do a health check on the internals. Probably be November before I can check it again.

:spin::spin:

 

So, got it all back together.

All the fluids in, double, triple checked everything.

Go to start it up, starts up fine.

Idle learn is going ok.

Notice a little leaking from the back of the engine.

Is coolant.

Is ok, prob from one of the heater hoses.

Nope.

No leaky hose.

It's leaking from the lower starter bolt...

 

 

How can it do that?

 

Sit down kids and let me tell you a story.

Looks like a previous owner replaced the starter at one point (or pulls the engine).

Then puts it back together.

The lower starter/bellhousing bolt is shorter than the others.

Someone puts in one of the longer ones and keeps going until it shears off

Then puts a placeholder bolt in with some kind of thread sealant.

 

I come along and find the sheared bolt.

No problem I say, I'll just drill that out and we'll be good to go.

I never considered that they might have buried the old one all the way to the end.

So drill until I get to the end of the "bolt" and have a little gap.

I totally expect this.

Tap it to rethread and all is well.

 

Fast forward to today.

When I realize that coolant CAN come out of that bolt hole because the "gap" I drilled into is a freaking coolant passage behind the bolt hole.

Curious as to the depth, I go measure the bolt hole on the old engine.

Mark it on a screwdriver.

Insert the screwdriver into the "new" engine.

Sure enough, it goes a little more than 1/2" further. :mad:

 

Trying to decide if I can try to use either some jbweld or gasket maker in the hole ahead of the bolt to seal up the passage.

 

Either way, I think I'm about done for the day...

Sweet mother of mechanics everywhere, that has got to be frustrating.

My beloved 05 Momo steering wheel has started to fall apart. Not an urgent fix, but it steps up the timeline on getting steering wheel controls going...cause why not.

I am not sure if anyone has put the cruise and audio controls from an 09 into an 05 (I did zero research) but I started looking on my own since I have an 09 wheel from the junk yard. Looks like I just need to swap out clock springs (easier said then done) and add a harness in the column to the head unit for both the illumination and audio controls.

 

The cruise control resistance readings are 1:1 with the dingle dongle that the 05 has, so that's sweet!

 

Also the wiring diagram looks like the wiring for the airbag is also 1:1 aside from one wire's color coding (but copper is copper, it sees no color)

 

If anyone whats me to make a more detailed thread when I am done let me know. This will also open up the aftermarket options of wheels that still accept an airbag.

Something is rattling around in my mind that the 08 plus steering wheel spline count/size was different than the 05 to 07s