flevum16

After looking at a number of the suggested posts and walk throughs threads as well as the vacation pics, I was able to extract the broken parts without too much difficulty. The problem with the bolt was resolved by removing it and simply not reinstalling. I did have to replace the front timing belt cover but otherwise it was not too difficult of the process.

Well shit, my buddy and I are gonna tackle it next weekend once I get parts. I'm very confident I can seal it up but I'm not so sure about the bottom bolt that's broken. Ill have to re-evaluate and see what the best way to go. Ill avoid removing the cam gears if i don't have to, as it does look like a pain. It recommends a special tool... but i don't know how important that is besides convenience, as the crank pulley comes off easily enough without one. A 10mm hex key is something I should have, but i hope it doesn't come to that. Has anyone done a cam gear removal guide that you know of? if not, I would consider making it one while I go! I also wasn't aware there was a banjo bolt filter behind there... is that similar to the AVCS/Turbo feed bolt on the rear passenger side rear?

I had a lifted 05 LGT Wagon. It had direct swapped outback suspension. I believe there is a NASOIC thread somewhere with all the suspension compatibility across all models available. I wish i could tell you more but i bought it with the lift. The car was my favorite I ever owned... I loved the lift!

Hi all, Currently in the midst of a timing belt replacement and whilst removing the covers I helped create a broken rear (and front) timing belt cover on the drivers side. One of the rear nuts was spinning and my removal attempt broke the front cover and now I am stuck with a damaged rear cover with a spinning nut. Has anyone ever had to change a rear cover? I cant find anything online or here and I'm confident that the cam sprockets would need to be removed to do it. I can likely rig up a fix with the existing rear cover and new front, but I would rather it be fixed properly. Any input is appreciated! 2005 Legacy GT 5MT 225k KM's (140k mi)

Nope I am still around! It's impossible for me to know what was in the old tranny before hand. The original owner was 2 before me and had it for over ten years and seemed to look after it well. He did alot of maintenance right at subaru and also took the time to remove the restrictive banjo bolt oil filter for the turbo feed line. The biggest challenge I had was sourcing or deciding on oil. I had a hard time finding much in Canada that didnt cost a fortune and realistically, once the synchros are at that point they are only going to get worse. The used JDM import transmission was only $ 600 CAD and went in with no easy and worked great. Of course if anyone wants the old tranny it's still sitting in the shop !! Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

This is the old girl after we got it going! Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

Ok folks. So turns out i may have panicked and gotten a tad dramatic. What first looked like oil on the ground must have actually been very carbon soak fuel from the exhaust. After a few minutes of frustration I was able to go back to the car and re-asses the situation. I tried restarting the car again and it resulted in the same symptoms as the very first time, cranking but no start. I then pulled the fuel pump fuse and tried starting again in flood mode (pedal to the floor). This time it started back up, spewing what i now know was fuel out the tailpipe and running super rough until it stalled when the fuel ran out. My saving grace was that I got a code during this startup for a miss fire on #2. I must have miss diagnosed which injector was bad, having assumed #2 to be alright due to it being changed recently. I repeated the entire process of removing plugs and purging fuel then changed the #2 injector to the old one out of cylinder #3. After reassembling and once again starting in flood mode the car came back to life!! I could immediately tell the difference in how it ran. It really must have been dumping fuel because it took a good 15 minutes of running to get it all out of the exhaust, I was also down nearly a quarter tank. It really surprised me how much that fuel in the cylinder sounded like a serious engine clunk/rattle, and the crazy volume of fuel it dumped. I had no idea it was possible to hydro lock the car like that with fuel. So the root of the problem here was the cheaper amazon injectors (matching part numbers of course) as opposed to the nearly 1000$ CAD id have to spend to buy new OEM ones. The cheaper ones clearly suck and I should have listened to all you people on the forums when you said to buy the proper OEM parts. I cant thank you guys all enough for the help in getting this thing going! Its a true lifesaver. I seriously doubt I'd have figured this out on my own. Ill make sure to do another oil change in the near future to ensure none of the fuel from the second time is still sitting in the oil and also replace the damn injectors with the proper ones. Hopefully there will be no other long term damage from this fiasco, and hopefully I can limp this thing to the shop to go over it a bit further!

Ok. So. Not good news. I got it turning over with the starter to clear out the fuel. No problem. Clears out good but does sound slightly off. I reassemble everything. Goes back together and start it up. Not good. It has a massive misfire and sounds awful. After a few seconds I shut it off. Go around to the back and there is a line of oil spewed from the exhaust. Looks like it's something more major. Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys. If I'm being honest, the reason I have 2 extra injectors is that I changed the other two a few weeks ago and never finished off the other side. This was really poor planning and thinking on my part. I bought 4 planning to do them all and I've put it off far too long. So here i am replacing the last 2 injectors, kicking myself because I may have caused my own problem. I'm going to make sure to purge the fuel from the cylinders before attempting to restart. I should be able to have it back going this afternoon. Hopefully. I'm changing the oil now and will keep you up to date on how it goes. Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

Ok that's good to hear. I really appreciate the offer that is way too kind. Unfortunately I am way up in southwestern Ontario. I do luckily have some injectors that are new kicking around! I'm going to try an oil change and a new injector and go from there! Thanks! Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

Pics of the injector damage. Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

Ok update! All pulleys are free. I found that when i removed plug #1 i could get engine to turn. Sweet! I checked the oil and its full of fuel... to be expected. Assuming the injector has stuck open badly I pulled it. Injector has a dent in the end of it... which could maybe be from install of it (this is not one i have replaced) or it could be from something internal? Ill post a pic soon. What do you think? Could a bent valve cause this?

Hmm, that's a good thought. Ill make sure to do that first thing in the AM. I wonder if its possible to have a fuel injector stick open, enough that if when the fuel system primes for starting it just dumps fuel into the cylinder. Ill keep you up to date. Thanks!

Hi all, First off, i have done a few hours of forum searching and so far have not come up with a good specific scenario that answers the questions I have about my current situation. If there are any similar or relevant threads I have missed please let me know, and I apologize for missing them. I have a 05 Legacy GT Sedan, it is stage 2 OTS Cobb tuned with all specified mods, otherwise stock. It has about 215000 KMs and is up to date on all major maintenance. I drive the car daily and haven't had any engine troubles besides a miss that ended up being a bad injector. Today I had the car out for a short drive and all was well. About a half hour later I came out back out of the house to run another quick errand and oddly enough the car wouldn't start. The car cranked fine, so I tried staring a number of times until it suddenly stopped turning over. The lights seemed to dim while starting so I figured bad ground or dead battery. I changed a bad ground cable and removed inter cooler and checked all cables to starter and cleaned the battery terminals. I also hooked up booster cables and tried again to crank car over. NO luck. I next removed the starter and checked its operation using booster cables. The starter spun and threw out fine. I also noticed a significant amount of fuel in the intake pipe from the manifold to inter cooler when I removed the inter cooler for the second time. I haven't seen anything like that before and I'm not sure exactly where that much fuel would come from. Now being worried, I'm wondering if the car has blown a timing belt or had some sort of valve failure, causing the car to not start and no longer turn over. I put a socket on the crank pulley and I am still not able to turn the engine over past a specific point. It moves freely in either direction except past that specific point. I even made sure the I didn't have the car in gear like an idiot. It seems very odd to me that I could experience engine failure when not driving the car. Call it lucky or unlucky if that is the case. I am looking for any advice on something I may have missed or further diagnostics I could try before tearing off the timing belt cover or removing the engine. Tearing it further apart is not ideal where it is as I usually work on the car at my dads 10 minutes away. That being said, the car seemed pretty screwed now. Any help you smart people can offer is greatly appreciated. Thank you all in advance!

So to follow up on this long post. I ended up sourcing a used transmission and replaced the tranny. I minimized the other changes made and used a slightly different oil in the replacement transmission. Clutch looked good when i inspected it and I couldn't find any other problems. Started it up and its worked great ever since. My thoughts are it was 100% syncro issues. likely aggravated by a change of fluid and by the clutch failure. Thanks for everyones help on this.

I appreciate all the responses. I have already changed the oil, not to a nice motul but rather a cheap oil just to see if it would make any difference. So far no change whatsoever. I have also played with the pedal setting on the clutch itself. This morning when driving into work I made sure to try shifting at different levels of clutch depression, it didn't seem to change anything. As of yet the only thing that improves shifting so far is low rpm shifts. Tonight I will try putting the car on stands and test full disengagement.

First off, the car is a 2005 Legacy GT 5MT, 210,000 KMs with a few basic mods, nothing too crazy. The clutch failed a bit ago and I had to get it towed because it wouldn't properly engage/disengage. Turned out the friction plate came apart. So I installed a replacement exedy clutch and flywheel, the install went pretty smooth. I also changed the tranny oil, using redline 75W90NS. When taking it for a test drive I noticed immediately a relatively nasty grinding when shifting both up and down into second. All the other gears are ok. The only other issue is a smaller grinding shifting into first while coasting at low speeds. I have tried double clutching, rev matching, different speeds and nothing seems to help with the grinding. Im reluctant to tear everything apart and reinspect the clutch install as I'm not sure if that is the issue. There was no grinding when shifting before I had to replace the clutch. Things I have read and what I can think of are, 1.Clutch is not disengaging the transmission properly, maybe a problem with the fork or the throw out bearing on the shaft. I did notice a bit of play in the fork when inspecting it. The nose of the shaft the where the TOB sits also did seem slightly worn.. ie. the bearing had a bit of play on the shaft. OR 2.The sycros are bad in second and possibly first, and the change in fluid just let the problem crop up. I'm not sure if there is anything else that could be looked at before tearing the entire thing apart again, and I hoped that someone on here may be kind enough to offer some insight. I was also considering taking the car to a dealer and seeing what they thought of the issue. Thanks!