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flevum16

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About flevum16

  • Birthday 11/26/1995

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  • Location
    Woodstock, ON, Canada
  • Car
    05 Legacy GT, 04 WRX
  • Interests
    Cars, Rallycross, Computers, Hockey!
  • Occupation
    Robotics Technician

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  1. After looking at a number of the suggested posts and walk throughs threads as well as the vacation pics, I was able to extract the broken parts without too much difficulty. The problem with the bolt was resolved by removing it and simply not reinstalling. I did have to replace the front timing belt cover but otherwise it was not too difficult of the process.
  2. Well shit, my buddy and I are gonna tackle it next weekend once I get parts. I'm very confident I can seal it up but I'm not so sure about the bottom bolt that's broken. Ill have to re-evaluate and see what the best way to go. Ill avoid removing the cam gears if i don't have to, as it does look like a pain. It recommends a special tool... but i don't know how important that is besides convenience, as the crank pulley comes off easily enough without one. A 10mm hex key is something I should have, but i hope it doesn't come to that. Has anyone done a cam gear removal guide that you know of? if not, I would consider making it one while I go! I also wasn't aware there was a banjo bolt filter behind there... is that similar to the AVCS/Turbo feed bolt on the rear passenger side rear?
  3. I had a lifted 05 LGT Wagon. It had direct swapped outback suspension. I believe there is a NASOIC thread somewhere with all the suspension compatibility across all models available. I wish i could tell you more but i bought it with the lift. The car was my favorite I ever owned... I loved the lift!
  4. Hi all, Currently in the midst of a timing belt replacement and whilst removing the covers I helped create a broken rear (and front) timing belt cover on the drivers side. One of the rear nuts was spinning and my removal attempt broke the front cover and now I am stuck with a damaged rear cover with a spinning nut. Has anyone ever had to change a rear cover? I cant find anything online or here and I'm confident that the cam sprockets would need to be removed to do it. I can likely rig up a fix with the existing rear cover and new front, but I would rather it be fixed properly. Any input is appreciated! 2005 Legacy GT 5MT 225k KM's (140k mi)
  5. Nope I am still around! It's impossible for me to know what was in the old tranny before hand. The original owner was 2 before me and had it for over ten years and seemed to look after it well. He did alot of maintenance right at subaru and also took the time to remove the restrictive banjo bolt oil filter for the turbo feed line. The biggest challenge I had was sourcing or deciding on oil. I had a hard time finding much in Canada that didnt cost a fortune and realistically, once the synchros are at that point they are only going to get worse. The used JDM import transmission was only $ 600 CAD and went in with no easy and worked great. Of course if anyone wants the old tranny it's still sitting in the shop !! Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
  6. So to follow up on this long post. I ended up sourcing a used transmission and replaced the tranny. I minimized the other changes made and used a slightly different oil in the replacement transmission. Clutch looked good when i inspected it and I couldn't find any other problems. Started it up and its worked great ever since. My thoughts are it was 100% syncro issues. likely aggravated by a change of fluid and by the clutch failure. Thanks for everyones help on this.
  7. I appreciate all the responses. I have already changed the oil, not to a nice motul but rather a cheap oil just to see if it would make any difference. So far no change whatsoever. I have also played with the pedal setting on the clutch itself. This morning when driving into work I made sure to try shifting at different levels of clutch depression, it didn't seem to change anything. As of yet the only thing that improves shifting so far is low rpm shifts. Tonight I will try putting the car on stands and test full disengagement.
  8. First off, the car is a 2005 Legacy GT 5MT, 210,000 KMs with a few basic mods, nothing too crazy. The clutch failed a bit ago and I had to get it towed because it wouldn't properly engage/disengage. Turned out the friction plate came apart. So I installed a replacement exedy clutch and flywheel, the install went pretty smooth. I also changed the tranny oil, using redline 75W90NS. When taking it for a test drive I noticed immediately a relatively nasty grinding when shifting both up and down into second. All the other gears are ok. The only other issue is a smaller grinding shifting into first while coasting at low speeds. I have tried double clutching, rev matching, different speeds and nothing seems to help with the grinding. Im reluctant to tear everything apart and reinspect the clutch install as I'm not sure if that is the issue. There was no grinding when shifting before I had to replace the clutch. Things I have read and what I can think of are, 1.Clutch is not disengaging the transmission properly, maybe a problem with the fork or the throw out bearing on the shaft. I did notice a bit of play in the fork when inspecting it. The nose of the shaft the where the TOB sits also did seem slightly worn.. ie. the bearing had a bit of play on the shaft. OR 2.The sycros are bad in second and possibly first, and the change in fluid just let the problem crop up. I'm not sure if there is anything else that could be looked at before tearing the entire thing apart again, and I hoped that someone on here may be kind enough to offer some insight. I was also considering taking the car to a dealer and seeing what they thought of the issue. Thanks!
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