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  1. Thanks for all that info. I got everything apart fine and was able to move it. This last week I started taking things apart and cleaning with a tooth brush before moving it to the engine stand. One thing I'm wondering about: The oil pan is off and as i'm sliding the block along a wood deck I see the pistons pumping, I'm guessing from air coming through the bottom? This wouldn't mess up the timing would it? I set everything properly before splitting up the heads and the crank wasn't touched. Re: Parts, it's been tricky, I don't know if it's just because of the Phase II 99 status still having the EJ22. Kits don't seem to have all compatible parts. Seems like the water pump and belt are different between 2.2 and 2.5 but everything else is common? I'm just ordering everything separately-Stuck with Aisin, NTN, and Mitsuboshi for the belt (a little harder to come by). With seals it's really weird and that's why I came back to ask, I kept finding a complete FEL-PRO gasket set at Amazon and Rockauto with the part number: HS26415PT-1 that didn't include the 1999 year, searches weren't producing anything else so I contacted Fel-Pro and they pointed me toward HS26415PT, problem is there's a couple of negative reviews online stating that kit does not fit the Ej22. Not sure, but if anyone has any ideas? Osei?
  2. Thanks for the advice Osei! Re: Seals, the motor has about 122k on it. I read something about a black vs. brown seal, and if it's one of those to leave it alone? That one color rarely leaks. Know anything about this? I'll still probably do it while I have access but I have read horror stories before with VW's anyway, about seals constantly leaking after being changed, when they probably would have outlasted the car if left alone. I changed the rear main seal and cam seal on my Jetta wagon without issues but I was nervous for a while. The SOHC vid I watched was clear and concise, but the kid doing the work ended up snapping a head bolt. Any precautions to keep in mind? Use heat or PB Blast? Breaker bar is the tool to use, not an impact right? If you had any on guidance on which suppliers to go with for parts, I'm all ears, this is my first experience with Subaru and I've read stories of parts in timing kits being inferior. Is the suggestion still to go with the dealership for most important parts? Do you know of a reputable online shop? Thanks again!
  3. Just noticed the link, thanks for that. I have a Chiltons that came with the car but I've never thought Chiltons manuals were very good. I removed the oil pan and intake manifold easily yesterday but my son and I were unable to lift the motor high enough to get it in the tailgate of the wagon. :/ I watched a good teardown video and am unclear on something: To get the heads off it looks like I have to remove the cam pulleys. In the video I watched, the belt was wound around the 2 pulleys and clipped against the body of the long block with vice grips. Is there a locking tool available? I don't want to mess with the timing when pulling the heads. Also, once the cam caps are removed, are the cams keyed a certain way so as to only be able to slide back in a specific way? Obviously I'd be careful to keep them more or less in the same orientation but even a smidgen off could mess with the timing, so I'm guessing they are keyed somehow? Thanks for any suggestions folks. EDIT: Watched another video on a SOHC and it looks much easier. Guess I should figure out if mine is SOHC or DOHC.
  4. Thanks! I was able to slide it around when I removed it, on a piece of cardboard. The engine is an ej22 out of a 99 Legacy sedan. Not sure about the exact engine code. I didn't realize that was true across those models. I'll take a look again on youtube, that might expand my search. I plan on going through the motor completely. Thanks!
  5. I was going to change all the gaskets and do a timing belt. Would that change your recommendation? Thanks!
  6. Hey guys, I have a complete legacy motor I've been looking to transport from my mother's house where it was removed to my place. I thought I was going to have some extra manpower to do this so my plan was to rent a van or pick-up from home depot, connect some straps and raise lower it with a section of pipe. Well, it looks like I may not have the extra muscle to do it that way so I'm exploring other options. Can anyone breakdown how easy it is to remove the 2 cylinder heads and the oil pan where the motor sits and just transport everything in the back of my wagon? I have an electric impact. Am I looking at a couple of hours? Less? Also, my understanding is the complete motor weighs around 300 lbs. or so, does that sound right? I should be able to distribute that weight in the wagon no problem I would think. I've removed cylinder heads on VW's before no problem. Is it the same on Subarus? Remove valve covers, head bolts, done? I have never removed an oil pan. Links appreciated if you know of a good video or photo tutorial. Many thanks!
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