MDSubie4

Funny, I see exactly that harness, and I see that grey plug which i'll assume is the one I needed to find, however, I don't have one going to that harness.

Can someone upload a pic where I can find where I need to put the radioshack resistor to have my code disappear for my swap to an STI uppipe? I've been looking for the connector (orange inside) and can't seem to find. I've managed to find closeup pics of the connector, but have no idea specifically it is in the engine bay. Would be appreciated. I can't seem to see the pics on this site of the "Ultimate Resistor Mod" link and why I'm asking. Also, I'll assume you are putting the resistor into the line that goes to the electrical, not the 02 sensor I'm getting rid of.. And once the resistor is in, what are you supposed to do, tape it up and tie strap it to something to keep it away from water or reconnect it? The latter part seems to be missing in a few videos I've seen. This is my engine bay for reference. Maybe someone can put a circle where I'm supposed to look for it. Thanks for your help in advance.

Resistor mod it is. Thanks. The STI uppipe have already has the heatshield on it. Thanks guys.

With an 05 Turbo, I'm keeping Stock header, but going to replace downpipe. Also replacing uppipe, and have a newer OEM STI one to replace my stocker. 1) I think my stocker has an 02 sensor which i'd need to do some type of mod to bypass emissions or... 2) was looking at new uppipe with 02 bung. Not sure if this is an issue for performance, but the newer uppipes with bungs are 2 inch in diameter whereas the current STI one is about 1.75. So question is as I'm keeping stock turbo, will the larger diameter tubing from a new uppipe affect performance negatively getting hooked up to stock header comparative to smaller sized OEM STI? I see on Perrin's site, they recommend the smaller 1.75inch for stock turbo's and 2 inch for larger turbos, so there has to be some logic to this but would value anyones experience with either or conversion I'd appreciate any insights.

Thanks. After reviewing as many as i could that had specs that seems to be the measure. Reynbestosists theirs at 2 inch but they must me measuring the full hole, not the piston. Much appreciated.

Does anyone know what the brake caliper piston size is? 2 inch or 1.7 inch? These freaking websites don't sort well for LGT Limited versus standard Legacy's. Apparently this ( Centric 141.47042) fits my 05 Legacy GT Limited with a 1.65" piston, and so does RAYBESTOS - FRC11848, but has a 2" piston. Would be appreciated.

Sounds like i'll be towing it to the tuners. No Cobb. I wont be adding anything, happy with those parts alone. Looking for mild upgrade and improved drivability. Thanks for your advice.

Hi, I'm assembling some perf. parts (intercooler/uppipe/downpipe) for an altogether one day install, which will require a tune. My question is, what are the perameters or even the ability to drive the car until I can get a tune. The objective on my end is to have the two scheduled as closely as possible. Will my car be undrivable? Do I need to keep it below certain rpm? How many miles can I drive it for? Don't want to cause any damage. Your input and recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks.

I have the 20mm on it now, but would prefer a 22mm if there ever was on through Whiteline or old Perrin 25mm, but thanks for the recommendation. Much appreciated

Longshot WTB for a discontinued Perrin RSB 25mm for 05-09 LGT. PM me if have one and interest to sell.

I've tried ordering coolant hose from local Subie Dealer only to find out these are on backorder. Don't have the time to wait as one is leaking. But they do have the new clamps in stock. What would be the size replacement for these two hoses below if I were to buy a length of hose from a parts store? Anyone know?

Like you, I went on a bit of a tear replacing all front control arm with poly bushings, when I got to the back, it wasn't the expense so much of the bushings for the trailing arms etc, but the labour to get all the old bushings out. I went with the full Whiteline kit, which has the added bonus that you can adjust rear camber. Car drives way more solid now. Only thing left to do was upper arms and I replaced with stock arm inclusive of new bushings from Rock Auto. Haven't got to any subframe items as of yet as I feel the car is in pretty good working order. All 4 corners, including rear trans diff and Group N trans bush, engine mounting points done. Feels like a different car altogether. Way more planted. And not a squeak from any of the poly I keep hearing about. Then again, I've put a new stereo in the car to drown most noise out

Many Thanks for your help guys, much appreciated. Like i said before, I'd prefer the solid link as I'm not sure over time if the rubber portion of the current dampener will eventually crush further causing a gap and thus movement in future rendering the mod less effective. With Canadian weather, summers in high 80's, winters below zero and salt on the roads, the rubber is bound to deform. Thanks again.

Maybe I don't understand American . You purchased the solid STI steering link (unsure what year as you don't say), but you didn't install it, however, you installed the lockdown dampener on your Legacy with the 2015+ steering rack and it fits and makes the steering feel terrific. Do i have that right? In my last message, all I'm looking for is confirmation that someone has installed a 2015-2019 STI Solid Steering Link to a 2005-2009 OEM steering shaft and it was a direct fitment, no issues. Not sure if your response actually answers my question, but is good to know. Much appreciated.

Just to confirm, this was the 2015-2019 STI solid link?

Can anyone confirm they have first hand experience installing a 2015-19 STI steering u-joint into a 05-09 Leggy GT with success? I'd prefer solid connection over the Cusco lockdown. If not, would be second best thing to go to. I've read where some have used it, but with a plus 2015 steering rack. Am more interested in knowing how it works with 05-09 stock Leggy GT rack. Thanks.

Awesome! Thanks for the prompt reply and input. I'll order one. Was thinking to see if there was a solid replacement from another model that would fit in nicely but this should do fine.

I'm looking at buying the Perrin Steering Lock Damper for 2005 Legacy Gt Wagon. Anyone know if this particular part fits? They say no in the ad but depending on whether it has the same steering damper. It looks exactly like the one I have but not sure if its same as all the 2005 Outbacks or other vehicles listed on the compatability list. Anyone order this for their Leggies? https://www.perrin.com/shop/drivetrain/steering-dampener-lockdown

As my car is pretty much rust-free except for the lines, I had the mech re-route the junction box close to the seat and away from the original destination accumulating salt or creating corrosion. On top of this, I bought the NiCopp line on Amazon and sent it to him. They've rerouted and replace all the lines in the rear of the car. It was only marginally more expensive. At the same time went with Stoptech softlines. I'll have the lines in front next year. The car is worth it. But the whole premise that all Subaru does under warranty is spray down a rusting freaking line is in my mind not a safety resolve. They should be as responsible for replacing the whole line as they are replacing an air bag. It's not like they taped the freaking air bag to stop it from deflating, they changed the whole bag. I'd rather not have airbags then not have freaking brakes where the damage to others is infinitely more grim. While I understand the car is old, whats the point of a recall if you don't do it write the first time. My hunch is they don't want to absorb cost of replacement and just give it a provisional "we've done what we can" considering, sending out a potential out of control missile into the general public. I mean "for real". My dad had an old Pontiac Parisienne for 20 years and 200,000 miles, rusted body and all and never undercoated throughout it's history and the brake lines never failed. Geepers. Some whine to go with my morning toast. . In all seriousness, I'm surprised there hasn't been a class action on this.

I just got into and accident here in Toronto a month ago because brake line ruptured. On Highway. Subaru Canada just told me to deal with insurance company. Insurance doesn't cover mechanical. Subaru Canada and Dealer don't take responsibility they say after recall was completed on both the line and the pipe. WTF. I am now dealing with one of their senior staff. This is insane and they should be taking responsibility. Perhaps some kind of class action should be in the works. We all could have been killed or killed someone else, children, hoards awaiting a bus, it's insane. I was quoted about $750 Canadian by my mechanic for repair of lines if nothing is rusty underneath like bolts and stuff. So this is common fail even after the recall.

Huge shout out to Raul(TightFitFab) aka k00laid83. Terrific guy, informative, patient with questions, responsive and excellent customer service. Highly recommend as your go to for the I88 plus.

Also tried PMing but I don't see my PM count going up. Maybe something wrong with my access. summersday4u@gmail.com Looking to order a harness.

Also PM'd and in need of one of your well-crafted harnesses. Cheers!

What is the enclosure size of these units?

Rehashing thread: Koni's on the way and prepping my KYB's in advance. 4th Gen GTWagon Just want to know before the inserts arrive. I don't have the instruction manual just yet. Am I cutting the strut 40mm from the top of the silver cap on the KYB strut or from the bottom of the silver cap mounted on the KYB Strut? I want to make sure I leave enough of the shaft for the Koni nubs on the insert to fit into the shaft.