06Obsidian3.0RB
-
Posts
66 -
Joined
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by 06Obsidian3.0RB
-
-
Gen 3 struts?
-
14 hours ago, KZJonny said:
There are a good handful still trying, but I'm no better than a backyard mechanic, and I really only know what I've driven on.
There are a couple of GTs near me that I've been in, but the heyday of this Generation of car is passing. Just us handful of diehards that are keeping our old Legacies, so yes. Comparo questions about running gear doesn't tend to get a lot of feedback. Usually at best you get the "this is what I have and it's great"....
I really like my Bilstien/Spec B stock strut/springs combo for the roads around where I live. I had pinks in there before, but even that inch of drop wasn't great for the speed humps and curbs, and I got very tired very fast of scraping my trailer hitch on stuff. I still hit it on things as stock height if I'm not wary.
Ymmv.
What's your opinion on the spring combinations I mentioned?
-
1 hour ago, KZJonny said:
There are a good handful still trying, but I'm no better than a backyard mechanic, and I really only know what I've driven on.
There are a couple of GTs near me that I've been in, but the heyday of this Generation of car is passing. Just us handful of diehards that are keeping our old Legacies, so yes. Comparo questions about running gear doesn't tend to get a lot of feedback. Usually at best you get the "this is what I have and it's great"....
I really like my Bilstien/Spec B stock strut/springs combo for the roads around where I live. I had pinks in there before, but even that inch of drop wasn't great for the speed humps and curbs, and I got very tired very fast of scraping my trailer hitch on stuff. I still hit it on things as stock height if I'm not wary.
Ymmv.
In my view they have become a classic. They are a sweet car and have that perfect combination.
But days as a regular car on the streets are over.
Ours is now a second car and it's going through a bit of a revamp because we're keeping it as a classic.
You do touch on an important several points. That the suspension even at stock height is low, and it has limited travel, and can easily become harsh.
I feel like there was something missed with the bilsteins. I have read many times people prefer stock springs with them, which are very soft. Too soft IMHO.
Anyway, your helping me out here.
-
20 minutes ago, KZJonny said:
People have been chatting about this for years mate. If you can imagine the combo, it's probably already been done and written about.
Most of the crowd these days seems to either be on Bilstiens and Pinks/Swifts/whatever, coilovers or staying stock/KYBs. Not a lot of options left for our chassis these days. even some of the high end coilovers are discontinuing support for the BP/BL.Yeah I have been reading and usually I find an answer that way like I did with the rsb and avo brackets and everything else I'm doing.
But this time there was less consensus and more vagueness in what I read. And most post were pretty old.
Decided I needed to ask some direct questions.
But, like you say. Not much action here anymore.
-
King springs have come on sale.
I can do the kyb and kings springs combo for $750.
This is the cheapest avenue open to me.
Kings I have options:
30 mm lowered front and std rear (can use a spacer in front).
30 mm lowered front and rear.
Not really looking to lower it. Has spec b 18's and is pretty low anyway.
Anyone have experience with king springs?
Or kyb king spring combo?
-
5 hours ago, KZJonny said:
Ah!
Should've put that together, the H6 Spec.
You in the UK/Europe?
Yes ez30 spec b but we had to ditch the worn bilsteins years ago.
Replaced with regular 3.0R struts which are same as GT I believe.
Australia
-
3 hours ago, KZJonny said:
Someone else may have a clue there but I do not.
I have used exclusively KYB GRs or Excel-Gs and Bilsteins on my Subies. Sometime you just stick with what you know. If I were going to get coilovers, I would look at Fortunes or something mid-range equivalent, but they just don't make sense for the roads where I live.
Sachs are supposed to be good too, but I doubt they're all that much different that other comparables, and the KYBs certainly have a good reputation. I don't remember hearing from anyone that they had a bum set.... Maybe not stiff enough for their burgeoning street racing career, but that is another issue entirely.
I think kyb struts and King springs will probably give the 'sporty street' road feel I'm after. The thing is currently very soft.
When it comes to Subaru's yes I agree kyb have a good reputation.
From what I read Sachs are softer but who knows in this case.
I was talking to someone today about the limited strut choices for these vehicles. He was surprised there was not 6-12 options like most cars.
For most vehicles we can get 'Monroe GT's' which are a firmer shock which gives a really nice sporty feel and is priced regularly. But not available it seems in this case.
I'm still tempted to get some used bilsteins but really these guys have priced themselves out of the market now compared to coil overs.
Bilstein want $600 pair to do seal's and oil. Which is ridiculous.
In reality I have more choice in coilovers, probably about 8-10 options ready to ship.
I don't have access to fortune but from what I have seen the HSD dualtech is a very decent street option.
It's a low pressure dual tube so it's a street strut. I might give them a call tomorrow and see what they have to say for themselves.
-
19 minutes ago, KZJonny said:
Ah, you got me. I was thinking b4=b6 yellows. That is a *big* difference.
I think for the sale price listed I would get the KYBs and see what you think with a fresh set of struts and that sway bar + bushings… I have those on my cars except for the GT (B6s) and Datsun (coilovers).
For many, that’s all the improvement they’re likely to ever need and use. Unless you regularly drive the car pretty hard, I kind of doubt you’ll see much of an improvement vs. the loss of comfort/compliance going to inexpensive coilovers, etc…
Awesome thanks!
If I go a more expensive option then I will probably just go the dualtechs with a 5kgF/7kgF springs. Soft by coilover standards, but still former than stock.
Anyway.
The sale price on the b4's is $786. $300 more thank kyb and enough for a set of king springs
One option I forgot to mention.
I can get Sachs for $500/set.
How does Sachs compare?
-
46 minutes ago, KZJonny said:
Bilstein b4 >> KYB Excel G
BUT, until and unless you replace all the original bushings everywhere in the suspension + stiffer sway bars of any flavour, it's all a little academic.
Maybe you already have those things, in which case you already know. But you'll get a lot more handling improvement from a $200 rear sway bar and bracket supports + some stiff endlinks than from fancy coilovers.
LOL
You been reading my mind?
I ordered a 20 mm whiteline rear bar this morning.
Already have superpro LCAs.
This is all part of a planned suspension and brakes revamp which started with a torn front outer cv boot.
Figured while I'm in there should also replace the tired struts.
So your saying the black bilstein b4 (not yellow b6) is far superior to the kyb's?
-
3 hours ago, KZJonny said:
Kyb = oem
You already know what the Bilsteins are like, which is an improvement over stock.
Assuming you’re staying away from coilovers, those are about your only options. I don’t think there are really other manufacturers, aside from Koni, if you’re willing to do the cut-a-strut treatment. (Do they even make a set for H6’s?)
B6’s are mainly for lowering, different valving, etc… no point really in a daily that has stock(ish) springs.
There are entire threads comaparing these things it you search for them, but end of day, unless you can take a ride in a bunch of cars with the exact same setup aside from just struts (unlikely) it’s just a matter or paying your money and taking your chances….
Honestly, compared to bilsteins ($2000) or konis ($1350 inserts only) coilovers are actually an option.
I can get a set of hsd dualtech coilovers delivered for $1250 with softer springs.
Is there a difference (if any) between kyb excel g and bilstein b4?
I have read the kyb excel g is a bit firmer than the oe strut. Can anyone confirm this please?
I can currently get on sale a full set of kyb excel g for $487 delivered but I need to move fast.
-
No one has ever done struts on their legacy?
-
Hi there,
The original bilsteins were well dead by 200,000 and were replaced with low mile used on struts from a 3.0R which I understand were same as GT.
Now at 250,000 and 6 years later the oe 3.0R struts are worn out. Not blown out but not controlling the car correctly. Changing lanes etc. Can feel rocking.
It's time for new struts. The oe struts were actually pretty good but something sportier would be nice. Not looking to lower it as on our worse roads it does already bottom out occasionally.
I'm wondering what people have done and feedback.
At the entry level I'm looking at kyb Excel g or a bit more $$ for bilstein b4.
Kyb cheapest is $600 set while b4 is $800 set.
I will probably get new springs but only std height option is king springs at $400.
>>> How does the KYB Excel G and Bilstein B4 compare to each other, and to the oem 3.0R struts?
I can go back to the stock bilsteins but this is an expensive option. I can get a used set here for around $600 shipped, and then run the risk of them being blown. I can get bilstein to rebuild them but that is starting at $600 + shipping.
And at the end of the day they were an improvement over stock but by no means a natural wonder.
By the time I'm at $1200 + I'm at a set of HSD dualtech coilovers with custom spring options warranty and parts support.
It's my wife's car and she would rather return the original bilstens but they're potentially an expensive option for what is in my view slight gains.
Replacement b6 bilsteins are definitely out. That's a solid $2000 option.
I've also seen Gabrielle ultra struts but don't know anything about them.
-
Lucky break.
If it's still making noises for example on full lock after start up then there's air trapped in the system. There's a purge procedure.
-
I went through this a few months ago.
Apparently no there is no h6 ps pump seal kit aka mr subaru on utube.
My fix was in the end ps fluid with magic ingredients and turning full lock to get out the air.
Actually this may be your solution. Have you tried purging your rack. Its easy.
-
19 hours ago, BoozeRS05 said:
Good summer tires can handle wet conditions without issue. Once cold becomes a factor, it’s acceptable to discuss summer and winter tires.
All-season tires don’t have a place in any serious tire conversion, but that’s just my opinion.
We all must realise summer tyre typically refers to tyres developed with summer in places like Scotland, Norway, Russia, North Japan etc. In mind.
Their design temperature range is typically from zero 0c or a bit lower to 40 or 50. And are designed for all weather types which may be encountered in 'summer' in the above mentioned countries
. Some are notorious for really bad summers.
So a good summer tyre is not just designed for a nice summers day, but also an early spring sleet.
-
1
-
-
4 hours ago, boxkita said:
meh...
Arguing about which high end summer tire works best for a 20yo touring sedan or wagon with a random assortment of parts in a variety of conditions seems like a waste of time. Any tire you buy currently will be better than the tires that came on the car new. Even my much loved Michelin Supersports are more than a decade old and have been surpassed.
This is a 4yo thread with alot of knowledgeable replies up front.
You want a fast summer tire, pick one of the top 3 autox tires. You want a track tire that lasts any slick other than Hoosier A7 is going to outlast a summer tire. If you live in a warm climate, buy summer tires. If you live in a cold climate, buy all season. If you have to actually drive in snow, buy a second set of wheels and put studded tires on.
If you want the most life out of whatever tire you buy, replace all your bushings, get an alignment that matches factory settings. Additional camber only matters in limited situations after you have done all your bushings and the rest of your suspension parts. really.
Michelin Supersports had a 30k warranty. I never got to use it because I wore off the outer blocks on the track. 15 years later, Michelin PS4S have a similar warranty. My gr86 wore them out in 16k miles. This time the wear pattern is even across the tread. Performance tires wear from performance driving. If spending $1000-1500/year on tires is too much, buy a high mileage all season. It'll still be higher performance than the car was designed for.
Hey you said it. Were arguing about $1000 to $2000 tyres on 20 year old $3000 sh1t boxes.
We keep my wife's car for when she has to go to a poor neighbourhood.
Honestly falken fk520's are overkill.
-
1 hour ago, Febreze Mee said:
For $70 more, on the same site, I can have an objectively superior tire with a higher tread wear.
Post wasn't directed at you. It was answering OP's query and the Florida man who revived the thread.
PS4s has a excellent reputation if you like it stick with it.
This is a good comparison of the SS vs 4s:
In answer to the OP and Florida man the tyres I'd consider as real street/track UHP summer tyres are:
GY SS
PS4s
Continental Sport Contact 7.
And by this I mean real treet tires which will handle rain and not die if used on a track.
-
8 hours ago, silverton said:
They call them DWS06 Plus now.
They improved the wet and snow performance by like 10% or some silly metric they decided to use.
Cross Climates are for your grandmas outback.
I don't even understand why people who run DWS year round are even participating in a thread about true UHP summer street/track tyres.
-
1
-
2
-
-
Simple tyre currently has Goodyear Eagle F1 Supersport in 225/40 18 92 Y for $227.99 each.
These are an excellent true UHP Street/Track tyre and are a direct competitor to the 4s. However have a better sportier steering feel.
Honestly if your looking for a street track tyre UHP you would be nuts to pass these up at that price.
We have these on our 3.0R spec b. And honestly are more tyre than the car needs.
-
On 12/8/2023 at 7:07 AM, Febreze Mee said:
I do not. I've only ever driven extensively on the PS4s. And now I have a Autocross season on some Falken 615K+ s.
Fair point. Your decision should definitely consider the style of driving you take up, and the amount of that driving type. I'm out for a spirited drive 370/365 days a year, and am dependent upon all the performance I can get from my tires. The PS4s make sense for the pleasure I derive for my daily drives. If it was only a get-to-and-from-work car, I would loosen up a ton on my tire choice.
Have a look at tyre reviews on utube for his UHP tyre reviews before purchasing your next set. Other manufacturers have caught up.
-
3 hours ago, Impatient said:
Whiteline has a similar offering, though SuperPro “sale price” is better than Whiteline’s “sale price.” Whiteline wa456L (and wa456R).
which of the three (seven) would you choose?
1 Mevotech CMS8028x
2) Whiteline WA456x
3) SuperPro trc1058 (pair)4) loaded OEM (Subaru) with the noodle bushings
5) OEM or Moog, but press out the rear noodles, and replace with 20204AG011
6) Moog RK622030 and -31
7) Beck Arnley (a Moog company???) alum 18775-05550579 picture looks like Mevotech, but rear bushing more like OEM (w/voids) ???
that’s enough options, not sure if any are perfect
Mevotech or Superpro (on sale). Pick your favourite.
My superpro rear bushings are not solid like I think the Nolathane are. More like a multipiece pillow ball with the inner part forming a sliding joint similar to a pillow ball. It's hard to explain but it isnt a solid piece of neoprene. There is two parts and some play designed in.
Superpro and Whiteline/Nolathane are both Australian and we consider them interchangeable. They are direct competitors, with one being a copy of the other (cannot remember which).
One was probably started by ex employees of the other out of spite.
Superpro is the most popular in home country.
Superpro warehouse is about 45 minutes from my house if that makes any difference.
Whiteline started out in sway bars.
It's normal to go Superpro bushings and whiteline swaybars with king springs.
-
8 hours ago, KZJonny said:
All the same geometry. I suspect the Superpro stuff will have a little more NVH than even the WRX stuff you have on now, just because it's poly and not high durometer rubber.
For the money, I've been happy with the Mevotech aluminium arms, and I haven't had a problems with the ball joints. Perhaps they've improved them over time, as a long time ago they had a reputation for being poor. In my market, it would still have been cheaper to get the Mevotech parts and put in a good set of 555 balljoints than to source used Spec B arms....
Mevotech has the solid hardened rubber like the WRX and old school (Group C?)?
I don't think the superpro has a huge increase in NVH over solid hardened rubber but some people report a difference. It is still flexible and you can indent with your thumb nail.
Later years went solid rubber with spherical bushings so possibly not a high impact area NVH.
I don't think he will notice a difference.
-
On 11/16/2023 at 6:14 AM, Impatient said:
It’s probably time for new FCA rear bushings, and who knows what else. One (trusted Subaru-specific) shop suggests steel Moog, another (trusted, but non-specific to Subaru) the steel but with SuperPro bushings….currently on sale. I DO NOT WANT MORE NVH!!! That said, maybe I already have the NVH, as I have 20204AG011 WRX bushings instead of 20204ag01b Outback bushings in stock OBXT FCA’s. this is on an Outback XT sitting at about stock spec-B height or maybe a smidge higher, with the Bilstein B6 spec-B upgrade struts, and the BTS5056 JDM springs. I don’t want to go back to noodle bushings either. So wondering if a preloaded LGT FCA or the Mevotech would be the happy medium.
So, similar to original question, are all FCA’s the same geometry ( Mevotech, stock LGT, and stock Outback)?
I have not fit them yet but the Superpro steel LCA's look nice. All apear to be quality parts.
-
No one has the McIntosh system?
2006 3.0R Spec B new struts
in Fourth Generation Legacy (2005 - 2009)
Posted
Well I've decided to go the oe+ route and try to wrangle as much sportiness as possible.
It's going to be kyb struts and king springs.
I just purchased a rear set of std height kings springs for $98.99 AUD shipped. Open box
KSRL-29. 345 lb or 6.2 kg/mm. Vs stock approx 5 kg.
Will probably go front KSFL-42 progressive rate 160-270lb (2.9-4.82), vs stock 3.5 kg.
I need to double check gen 4 kyb pn but I know they are different. Maybe just different plants.
What I am excited by is the prospect of gen 3 struts, apparently they are much firmer valved due to the gen 3 increased rate.
Pn is same au and us front: 334274 and 334273.
Have not checked the rears pn yet.
I'm probably going to give the fronts a go.
Old mate here reports fully sick:
Question is
Rears. Are gen 3 rears stiffer also?