NickCawks

i will try and get a video of the sound. I'd say the sound of the exhaust will cover it up though

at some point in the near future, I'm gonna put my stock DP and exhaust back on just for sanity's sake and to make sure this problem is unrelated.

I put a Whiteline camber kit on my 07 LGT a couple of years ago when I had some much too large wheels and even after getting the fenders rolled still needed to get the wheels cambered in a little more to stop rubbing. I have several complaints about this kit. first, it doesn't come with a tool to adjust it, nor could I find a suitable at all online. Due to this several different alignment shops wouldn't touch it so I was forced to eyeball it by grabbing it with a pair of pliers. Second, they don't stay in the position you set them forever, I found that about once every 6 months I'm down there fooling with them again. For all of this trouble, I don't think it has added anything notable to the way my car handles even when I am being very aggressive on the Twistys

well, i finally gave in and took the car to a local shop for them to tell me what the issue was. They couldn't figure it out, had me come in and take them on 2 test drives. On the test drives, the tech clearly heard the sound I was referring to. However, following these test drives I get a call from them telling me that the sound is happening because my exhaust is rubbing against my subframe brace. This was pretty laughable. The sound has been happening for much longer than I have had the exhaust on my car. Not to mention I have a cheap eBay exhaust I bought for $200 from a local recycler and installed it myself. The thing hangs more than two inches lower than the subframe brace. The only thing the exhaust is in danger of making contact with is the ground as it hangs SUPER low.

Man I wish it was a wheel bearing at least I'd be in charted water (for me) -pitch stop seems to be in great shape -Transmission mounts are also in good shape -All 4 wheel bearings are solid as a rock - I did try your recommended test on the wheel bearings as well and couldn't feel anything, just hear the sound of my pads rubbing on my rapidly rusting rotors. I'm truly at a loss with this one, it may just be my inexperienced eyes but I just can not find an explanation.

Good afternoon all. I've been chasing down a rattle/rumble for a few months. It occasionally happens when I'm going 65+ and turning right, but most often it happens between shifts at any speed. I have thoroughly checked over my suspension components on both sides and can't find anything that would be the cause. Just last year I replaced the control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, and sway bar end links so I really wasn't expecting it to be anything there. However, from the driver's seat, it does seem to come from the front left side of the car (though that could maybe just be where I'm sitting, as others in the car say they hear it from the rear). In another thread, I recently mentioned this and someone told me to check on my driveshaft. I just got under there and couldn't seem to get too much movement from the driveshaft or replicate the sounds. However, the carrier in the center of the car does have a little play to it. I made a quick video to see if you guys think this could be the cause. It seems unlikely to me that this would be causing the noise as I'm pretty sure there is supposed to be a little bit of play there, but that's all I could find Let me know what you guys think about this. I'd love to get this sound sorted out it drives me crazy. Also if you think this probably isn't the answer, please let me know what you guys suggest checking next. I have the car up on jack stands right now so should be able to get in there and check quickly.

I am just using an OTS tune from cobb at the moment. Been planning to get an e-tune, but haven't gotten around to it and just cant afford a pro tune. Ill have to check that out. I haven't checked that area. It sounds like the rattle is coming from the front drivers side, but all the suspension components there are fairly new and in good shape

Got the new solenoid in this morning and took her out for a test drive. Everything seems to be on the up and up and working correctly now. Next up is looking into the timing and figuring out what the rattle coming from my suspension that happens between shifts is. I want to thank you guys again for all the help and advice. It's very reassuring to know that there are people who will take the time to give a hand to those in need!

Yikes that sounds rough. The car lost its turbo around 140k (before I owned) it. The shop I bought it from replaced the turbo and gave it a clean bill of health. I've put roughly 80k on it since then and have never noticed anything in the oil. I do my oil changes at 3k religiously with Castrol edge and always use a can of BG MOA. When this one started acting up I had done the oil change right before getting on the road for a 2000 mile return trip home. Ive done this trip quite a few times and always change it before leaving at both ends. I'm really thinking I've got to chalk this one up to buying cheap Chinese replacement solenoids that I put in around 10k miles ago.

Wow, that is extremely helpful, I appreciate you taking the time to do that. So I've had a slight development today. My brain decided to actually work for me this morning and I thought why don't I just swap the AVCS solenoids over to see if the code moves, and sure enough it did. When I started the car it is now throwing a p2092 instead of the p2088. These codes are identical aside from indicating either bank 1 or 2. This makes me fairly certain that the solenoid itself has failed and not the wiring (thank goodness). New solenoid will be here on tuesday, ill keep you guys posted on my results

I will definitely be checking it when I get the time here in the next couple of days. the thought of there being an issue with timing is now looming over my shoulder. I have no idea how much they cost, but I'm assuming I don't want to spend the money on a new AVCS pulley. I watched of a guy disassembling and cleaning. Seemed pretty straight forward and that part doesn't concern me at all, it's getting it out that concerns me.

I just set my multimeter to the continuity setting, grounded the multimeter on the frame, and probed the connector with the positive lead of the multimeter. This resulted in the multimeter making a sound and giving me a reading. I cant remember the number exactly, but I did note that it was the same between the two connectors. I had found a video on youtube where someone was doing this, but of course, cannot find it again today. Electrical is not my strong suit, how would I go about checking the ohms?

Thanks for the quick reply. I wasn't necessarily saying this noise is the cam gear, more meaning that it's clearly time to get in and replace my timing idlers and pulleys, and doing the AVCS pulley cleaning isn't much of a leap of effort on top of all that. It would really chap my ass to get this problem fixed only to jump teeth and bend valves down the road. The car was bought used and I highly doubt the timing stuff has ever been done. If anything this problem has forced me to pay attention to other potential problems that are on the rise. I do love this car and I want it to keep going as long as possible. All that said, I did check the continuity on the connectors to the AVCS actuators and they came back good as well as identical, and as my code only indicated one bank that makes me feel that both sides are in spec. I still need to double-check the degree the actuators are opening during operation to confirm I'm just not in need of replacing one of them to move on and I suppose it would be a good idea to go blast those connectors out with electrical cleaner just to make sure. I will also come clean and say I used some cheap $45 actuators to replace the OEM ones when I did this about 10k miles ago, so I still haven't checked that off the list as being to cause of my code. with the development of the new sound clearly coming from an idler or a pulley I am just cramming some research on the entire prospect and trying to build my confidence towards doing a job I would normally pawn off to a shop, but just can't afford to do so at the moment. To-do: -Check the degree of actuation on AVCS solenoids (still trying to figure out how to do this on my cobb) -Blast AVCS Solenoid connectors with electrical cleaner -Re-confirm that the issue is not a wiring issue (AVCS solenoid connectors and deeper) On my new to-do list: -Locate a good (Japanese sourced parts) timing kit If anyone has any suggestions on a brand to look into that would be greatly appreciated. Again thank you guys for all the info and your patients with my ignorance. I will keep you posted on my findings

I did a good bit of research on the AVCS pulley yesterday. Cleaning the AVCS pulley seems like no problem, but it does seem like it would be difficult to get it off. Especially with the motor still in the car. However, I am starting to lean towards this being quite likely as the culprit to my issues. I went to move the car out of my garage this morning and while it was warming up I noticed a sound I have never heard before. Sounds like a revolutionary squeal, my mind immediately likens it to a failing bearing on one of the pulleys. the video doesnt really do it justice. Its much more noticeable over my exhaust in person. It certainly makes me nervous and I am concerned that im in for a decent smack to my bank account

Could be the relay is stuck closed. check in your fuse box to find which relay runs the fans. Occasionally you can unstick them with a few light wacks from a screwdriver or something. ultimately you'd want to replace it but it COULD possibly let you know if that is the problem.

Alright just ran to Advance and got my battery and alternator load tested. The guy said they were both golden. 12.6 on the battery and 14.3 on the alternator. I also just went out and continuity checked both connectors going to the solenoids - both came back good. the car has around 215k on it. I'm going to immediately look more into this AVCS pulley situation. Is this separate from the cam gear? I've done a lot of work on my Subarus but have never had the sarcastic pleasure of doing anything with pulleys or timing. I had a buddy that ran a shop who would normally deal with things like this on a friend discount for me, but the pandemic killed the shop.

Thank you guys for the quick responses. I have actually read through that page several times already. I continuity tested the connectors going to the camshaft position sensors, but have not done the ones going to the solenoid. I will do that in a bit here and report back. the battery is old, I've been meaning to replace it but haven't gotten around to it. And I had read that this code occasionally is caused by low voltage to the system. That said While I was doing this job it was on my charger/tender for two days. and before putting it back in I multimeterd it at 13.4 volts. The alternator seems to be working just fine, I have had no issues that lead me to believe it's going out, therefore haven't actually tested it in any way. Sounds like I need to: -Continuity check the AVCS solenoid connectors -Load test the battery and possibly replace it -Load test the alternator - and cross my fingers I don't have to replace it. money is tight right now :/ On top of that -Is there a way to multimeter the solenoids themselves for function? -I do have a cobb, but by no means have any deep knowledge of tuning. However, I did read someone saying there is a way to check the degree that it's actuating. This seems like a really good way to check the functionality of the solenoids themselves. Can someone direct me on how to view this in my cobb and I'd also need to know what degree they should be getting to when functioning 100%

Hello all, long time since I had cause to post on here. However, as I sit here writing this I do so in utter dismay and reeking of failure. I recently drove my legacy across the country (about 2k miles) the trip there was completely fine. The return trip was good until the last 500 miles or so. At this point, my car began to throw a P2088. Now the car was driving and idling completely normally. So my first reaction was to clear the code and get myself out of limp mode. I had been driving for nearly 12 hours that day and I was not excited about my CC being unavailable. but the code would come back within 10 seconds of clearing it. Less than 10k miles ago I threw a different code (can't remember it at the moment) that indicated my VVT solenoid was failing, So I went ahead and replaced both solenoids. Now that I am getting this code specifically referring to the camshaft position sensor, I go ahead and spent the last two days on a wonderful adventure of shoving my hands in small spaces to get those both replaced. The job went over fairly well and only caused me to cuss a couple of times. Now I have put everything back together and turned the car back on. I was letting it idle in my driveway so the damn ECU can learn the correct idle speed. Just about the time my car reached operating temperature the code popped on again. I'm at my wit's ends with this problem. I totally DONT care about this issue because the car is driving fine, BUT I don't want to be permanently in limp mode. My buddy says it has to be my VVT solenoid(s), but I can't understand how a part that previously lasted 200k on my car has gone bad within 10k if being replaced. I am not exactly sure what my next step needs to be and was ready to get some advice from others because clearly, I'm trying to shove a square peg in a round hole. Car Info: -2007 Legacy GT Limited -215k - Well-loved and maintained regularly -Turbo was replaced when I bought the car about 70k ago with an F-Diesel clone (not my choice, but hasn't seemed to be an issue) -Tuned on Cobb OTS map -Grimmspeed air intake -Grimmspeed boost control solenoid -Catless eBay downpipe -Catless Noname 3" exhaust -Otherwise, the car is completely stock Any and all advice is appreciated, I truly will drive to someone and kiss their boot if they can help me solve this issue.

I have seen some of the LED bulbs that have heat syncs and fans attached to the backside. These have proven to help a lot with heat, but have also presented some fitment issues. IMO you should just wire the resistors in yourself. I'm sure there is a forum out there somewhere that someone has brought this up as well. let me know if you find anything out on the ford front I'd be interested to know if there is a better work around than installing resistors in line.

im pleased to report that the Diode Dynamics relay has solved the issue. Thanks for the suggestion guys! super glad to have gotten rid of this very irritating issue

I have run just about every filter they sell at advance auto. The decision usually lies in which one is on sale in combination with Castrol Edge. Before my 02 WRX blew I had an oil pressure gauge in it. I noted VAST differences in oil pressure between each filter, around 20-30 PSI differences between most the major brands. The Mobil 1 filters seemed to run at the highest pressure which also resulted in the smoothest powerband. Obviously the differences were minor, but it's also worth noting that the previous owner had the car tuned on a Mobil 1 filter so that is likely why it felt better with those on. On my legacy which is running a base map from cobb, I do not notice hardly any difference at all between the oil filters, but I still try to run the Mobil 1 filters because they worked the best on my WRX and old habits die hard. ultimately my conclusion is that with today's advances in filter media pretty much all filters are good enough and/or equivalent. However, if you get a pro tune with a certain type of filter you will likely notice that the car runs slightly better with that brand of filter.

Alright, I will go ahead and order the diode dynamics relay and see if that does the job. After looking into it I honestly believe I was wrong on that front. I believe this might be a case of me assuming something that just simply isn't true; coupled with some very tricky wording in the product description. When I went back and looked through the product description on the bulb it says "no need for a resistor", but with a little further searching into the product description, it says no need for a resistor if you install an LED relay. So i'd chalk that one up to wishful thinking lol.

I will attempt to resituate the relay and post back my results

totally forgot to mention that I do already have this LED relay installed

Not sure if this really explains the sounds, but it sure sounds like your AWD system is having some issues. seems like the wheel that is having trouble spinning is having the brake applied. I would start at the wheel that is having trouble spinning. pull that sucker off and inspect the caliper, pads, and lines to make sure there is no visible evidence of an issue. perhaps the bearing is beginning to seize? have you heard any noises previously that might indicate this?