Mr. Electric Wizard

After playing with it a bit more this seems to be the case. If I gently blip the throttle it plays nice and the numbers go up a little and down a little but when I rip the pedal, it goes up to a high number and then --- which I assume is LEAN AF.

Tune-time.

Hello all,

I'm FINALLY ready to start my e-tune since most everything that I'm going to do to this car has been done now. I have a Cobb AP v3.

My tuner wants these monitors in the data logging:

af correction 1

af learning 1

af ratio----(FA20 only)

boost

baro

coolant temp

calculated load

commanded fuel final

DAM

Engine Speed/RPM

Ethanol RAW ( If flex fuel sensor equipped)

feedback knock

fine knock learn

fuel rail pressure----(FA20 only)

Fuel pressure raw (if cobb pressure sensor equipped)

fuel pump duty

Ignition timing

intake temp manifold

Injector duty

MAF

Maf volts

manifold absolute pressure or map

requested torque

roughness 1-4

sns rear 02

throttle position

wastegate duty cycle

The problem is that when I try to start logging data, I'm getting an error that says "Reduce your monitor selection by 7 bytes".

It seems that each monitor is 1 byte, so I don't see any way that I'm going to be able to log all these monitors.

Is there a way around this?

(this is my first time logging with an AP, btw, so go easy on me )

Quick question, as I've never had one of these gauges.

I finally got my gauge installed and my car fired up (no tune yet but coming soon).

The gauge reads 14.6 at idle but when I step on the gas (in neutral) it quickly goes up then shows --- (three dashes).

Does this mean that it is going off the charts lean?

Thanks for the info about the passenger side foot well.

I ended up going through that same grommet but since mine is a Limited, and this grommet is where the drain line goes.

I was able to pull the wires through there by just removing the drain line, passing the connector through, then putting the drain line back through.

Worked awesome.

Just buy these to replace the large bundle by the strut tower. They are oem dampers from 04-07 wrx and stis. You'll need to use a different fpr though.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/255471490452

Thanks for the ebay link but can you expand on why I would need an aftermarket FPR? Is the flow rate different with these WRX dampers or something?

It was time sensitive at the beginning because my mechanic buddy had the manifold off and was going to put the injectors on while we were at it. He didn’t feel comfortable installing the injectors and new rails, so we kept the old injectors on. Now I have my car at home finally but no new injectors installed and a kit that is not ideal. Injector Dynamics might have been the choice because the stumble (if there Eden is going to be one) can be tuned out. Don’t know.

I do think that once the new kit and injectors are installed it will be less of a job to remove any new lines and reconfigure. The kit has AN fittings on it. The only real difference I can see is that the supply and return lines are supposed to use nipples to connect directly to the body lines for supply/return instead of AN fittings to an aftermarket AFR.

I have also heard of folks putting later model WRX dampers on the input side of the fuel rails. Not sure if a stock FPR was used or not though.

You have kind of backed yourself into a corner with the kit you bought, the OEM rails have the damper as a part of them and can't be relocated to ANY aftermarket rail.

 

Some people will buy stock top feed rails from and 08 plus legacy or WRX/sti and use the dampers from that set up.

 

You basically have two options at this point.

 

Scrap or modify your line kit to incorporate the later model top feed rail dampers or after market.

 

Only run the damper at the fpr.

 

When you originally started asking about this I suggested custom lines was the best option , or just to have your tuner buy and install whatever he suggested.

 

Also to make the situation worse as mentioned above aftermarket dampers don't seem to have any advantage over stock, and from all the reading I have done you are going to get the most reduction in stumble from a two port fpr , plumbed in parallel with independent returns for each rail.

 

At this point I would just slap on the new rails and line kit to your stock fpr, omitting the other two damper and see how it goes.

The tuner is the one that ordered this kit. It was my reading and asking a bunch of questions that uncovered the fact that I am missing a couple of dampers. Can't find too much info online about converting this specific model to top feed.

I'll get there eventually. Since the manifold has to come off anyways, might as well get the crappy cob inlet pipe out and switch to a Perrin.

Worth mentioning no matter what way you go about it you are not getting the old rails out with completely removing intake manifold and tgv's

Yep, totally.

I just went out and looked on the car and the stock dampers (#1 and #2 on the drawing above) are bolted to the top of the stock side feed fuel rail.

I have Cobb top feed rails and there is no hole for the stock dampers.

Can the #1/#2 stock dampers be somehow added to this new top feed conversion, or am I going to have to get aftermarket dampers?

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There are three dampers on our stock 05-06, one is by the FPR by the strut mount, the other two are on each rail between the injectors. Though, for the most part I think the stock dampers are fine, unless the diaphragm is damaged. I replaced all my dampers with radium dampers to see if there was a noticeable difference and my conclusion was not really.

Okay thanks!

So the two white dome things next to the stock injectors ARE dampers.

How would these be incorporated into a top feed fuel rail? I suppose they can just stay connected where they are and should fit under the new top feed rails.

I'm probably over thinking this.

For a top feed conversion, I've read that it's recommended to use the stock (or replacement) fuel dampers.

On this picture, is the fuel damper #3 (on the cluster of fpr) or is #1 and #2 dampers as well? Thank you cor clearing this up for me.

Thanks!

Here's the instructions for my kit (stock FPR):

http://help.t1racedevelopment.com/support/solutions/articles/4000017345-04-06-subaru-sti-side-feed-to-top-feed-conversion-line-kit

This fuel line kit is designed to be used with the rails in series and with the stock fuel pressure regulator. Running the rails in series uses less parts and ensures no vapor pockets form in the lines and rails.

 

 

The assembly is very easy. You’ll install the (4) 6AN to 6AN-ORB adaptors in the ends of the fuel rails. The end with the radius and o-ring screws into the rails. Use a small amount of lube on the o-rings before installation.

 

 

The 12” long line will connect from the rear of the driver’s side rail to the OEM 5/16” supply line. One of the 5/16 barb adaptors will go at the other end of this AN line, then you’ll connect this barb to the OEM barb with the 5/16” fuel injection hose and hose clamps.

 

 

One of the long lines goes from the front of the driver’s side rail to the front of the passenger side rail. The other long line goes from the rear of the pass side rail over toward the driver side rail. The other barb adaptor will go on the end of this line, and the 5/16” fuel injection hose will go from there to the inlet barb of the fuel pressure regulator, and secure with hose clamps. The fuel pressure regulator should be relocated to the driver’s side of the car, away from the heat of the turbocharger. You can mount it to one of the bolts on the intake manifold as you find fits with your intercooler design. The amount of hose provided is enough to give lots of flexibility in choosing an FPR location.

Again, the strange wording is the relocation of the stock FPR.

A Legacy GT has it on the driver's side away from the turbo already, unless I'm missing something. Any recommendations for dampers in this situation?

The stock ones are the little white dome things between the stock injectors, correct?

Can I use the stock fuel pressure regulator too?

And the dampers on a stock 2006 are on the old fuel rail. I'll need an aftermarket pulse damper right?

For your fpr upgrade, did you go with an Aeromotive?

What size vacuum line did you use? do you remember?

I think I need some vacuum line and another line that goes to the purge valve.

And for the splicing into the factory fuel supply and return, do I just cut the stock rubber line and contact it to the barb I show below? No more tie strap into the connector to release the factory hoses?

One thing I dint get about the line kit I bought is ‘the relocating the regulator to the drivers side away from the turbo’ part. The kit is for an STI too but is the regulator on the passenger side for an STI? Our Legacy GT’s have it on the drivers side already right, so no relocation needed?

The regulator is what that top fuel line is connected to right?

You mean the Cobb V2? I am actually thinking about switching mine out for the Perrin one. The Cobb is just so huge, it’s really cumbersome to deal with. I’m not actually sure that the one that I have is the V1 or the V2.

Here's another thread of mine with a photo:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cobb-turbo-inlet-w-stock-intakei-287699.html

Working on mine now

 

If you are not doing the work yourself, buy a kit with lines.

 

The cost to custom fab lines is not much less just in parts and by the time you pay a mechanic ... forget it.

 

Your other option is swapping out OEM parts that are top feed.

 

To make matters worse the kits are not as readily available for legacy's.

 

In your situation basically ask your tunner what parts he wants to use to get it done as cheap as possible, then open your wallet

 

 

 

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Did you finish your conversion?

I'm thinking about tackling this myself at some point. Are you pulling your intake manifold and removing the stock metal fuel lines?

Oh, and while I had everything apart, I put in an Aux. input on the stock stereo.

New wideband is much smaller (in the bezel area) than the one I was trying previously.

This new one, with the new thin bezel works awesome.