Mr. Electric Wizard

Whiteline RSB is definitely something I should do along with the brace.

I found it.  Had forgotten that it was just chilling under the intake with the harness plugged into it.

I have had a Cobb turbo inlet pipe on my car the last couple of years.  I don't like it, and I'm about to change it out for a Perrin unit.  There is a part that the stock unit has that was not used for the Cobb unit.  It's a white plastic piece (kind of L-shaped) that goes on the back of the pipe, near where the turbo is.

Can anyone tell me what the part number is for the white plastic piece?  I think it's the crankcase breather?  I could have sworn I kept this when I put the Cobb inlet on but I cannot seem to locate it, and I need one.  The Perrin hooks up the same way as the stock inlet.

Thanks!

16 hours ago, subisubisu said:

This afternoon I put about 25 miles of mixed roads on it, including a bit of interstate, making about 65 miles so far since first start.  Most of that was trips around the block wondering what the air-fuel problem was.  Now it seems to be OK, but I don't have a lot of experience with it.  However, I can say that I definitely am not experiencing "floaty".  Steering feel is a bit heavy; firm.  I did the 2015+ STi quick-ratio rack swap in mine, too.

I am really thinking about this STI rack swap.  How difficult was it to do, and do you think it was worth it?

My issues may just be steering related honestly.

5 hours ago, blackobxt said:

This has a lot of information on it. My outback is on lgt stuff, let me know if you have any questions.

NICE!  Thank yoU!

I will probably need to replace one of my front Koni's as one of them is not getting full adjustment and is binding at almost one full turn.  How do you like the result?

I love my car, and I love the power but the handling at speed leaves something to be desired.  It's so floaty it scares me.

A while ago (I should have bookmarked) there was a thread I believe on here where a guy converted his Outback XT to Legacy GT suspension.  I'm interested in possibly doing this.  I was looking and KW makes a set of coilovers for a Legacy GT and not an Outback and I'd rather remove spacers and all from the Outback and effectively turn it into a Legacy. 
Does anyone remember the thread I'm referring to? 

4 hours ago, covertrussian said:

Updated the first post and clarified that the Dorman connectors are optional.  Also fixed the image embedding

You are so generous to put this guide up.  This stutter has gotten pretty annoying.

4 hours ago, BoozeRS05 said:

I’m looking forward to doing all this stuff too once I gather parts. Much appreciated on the write up 

I second this!  Thanks SOOOO MUCH for the write-up!  It's awesome!

Okay, this makes sense.  It seems that nobody has had to use these Doorman connectors.  But just so I'm aware, these would be used to connect a new (non stock) flexible rubber fuel injection hose to the stock hard lines?

I have not, no.  No idea what was done before I got the car.  Are you thinking one of the speed sensor gear things might be off or incorrect?

Are those connectors showing in this picture?

The best I can tell, everything in there is a barbed connection, except for the stock connections.

Fuel injection clamps sure, but I don't see the other connectors mentioned in the list of items to do the install.

Can either of you answer my question about the Doorman Fuel Line Connectors (800-120) and their use?

Got a reply this time.  I must not have submitted the question correctly the first time (from my phone).

Here's the reply I got:

Quote

If one adjusters is only rotating 1 full turn from stop to stop there is likely and internal issue with the damper, as closer to 2 full turns is normal. Stuck or jammed adjusters are most commonly related to a bottoming of the damper, or improperly installing the top strut mount nut with a pneumatic impact gun. Working the adjuster rod back and forth to see if you possibly free it up is about the only thing externally that you can do to see if it will free itself from the hang up. The adjuster mechanism is completely housed inside the damper, and what you are turning is a preload nut at the very bottom of the piston rod, and under the piston and valve stack. If the adjuster is unable to be corrected by working the adjuster tab back and forth, there are really only two options in getting both sides to match. Send the shock in for warranty evaluation if you are the original purchaser, or if not having replacing the damper out right.  

I finally got my ABS issue fixed, so cruise control is working again.  Does it seem like cruise control on a LGT is a bit jerky?  Every other car I've owned has a smooth cruise control.  I'm wondering if it's because this car has a lot of power or what. 

Curious what your experience and thoughts are.

I've been sending them emails through their site but have not gotten a response yet.

Now I just need to figure out why one of my fronts only has one rotation available.

Thanks!  I noticed this flat metal adjuster that Koni makes.  I might get one!

https://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/Products/Accessories/KNOBS/

Just removed the cargo area pieces and I can ALMOST get the Koni adjuster knob on.  I even Dremel'd out a notch but still couldn't get it on.  I don't want to notch any bigger because you'd be able to see it over the carpet.  Dang!  So close, yet so far. 

I might go with that cable idea.  That's pretty cool.

Interesting idea!  You leave it installed all the time or do you remove when not being adjusted?

Bumpity bump. 

I've searched and cannot seem to find an answer to this.

I have the Koni inserts on the front of my wagon, and the regular shocks on the back.  They have adjusters on the top of the shock that you can adjust the firmness with.  The front is no problem because the adjuster knobs stick out of the top of the shock tower.  But the rears are buried under the car, so adjustment is not very easy.

How do you wagon owners deal with the rear shock adjustments?  Do you put a hole in your cargo area?  Or do you really take the shocks out every time you want to adjust.

Side question:  one of my front Koni's only has 1 full turn of adjustment and the other side has 2 full turns.  Any ideas what the issue could be?  Supposedly they are supposed to have 2 full turns.

I am planning to do this mod at some point but I cannot seem to locate any good vacuum port plugs that folks say are acceptable.  I'd rather not plug the manifold port with a rubber one that will only start leaking.

Are there any vacuum port plugs that are acceptable? Considering just using some vacuum hose, a bolt with silicone and a zip tie.

And what exactly is the function of the Doorman Fuel Line Connectors (800-120) and how do you use them?  Is my red arrow pointing to one of the Doorman connectors?

ABS light fixed!  The left rear (I think) was intermittently working.  I had the shop just go ahead and replace it with a used one they had on a parts car there.