kingsebastian

Also for the relay, any of those other blue relays will work, I found autozone carries this relay in store.

 

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When I installed my fog lights the relay was still in the mail so I pulled one of those blue ones to test it.

So when the new one got delivered I just popped it into place.

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I enjoyed reading about your build...so much if the same in here. Glad people aren't afraid to do their own thing. Hope you're getting the results you want.

I would never go this route a it doesn't fit my needs or lifestyle...but looks very cool to me.

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Anybody know where I can get the factory instructions for the install?I need out for the relay part.

 

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The WRX axle-back actually bolt right up to the stock mid-pipe. The exhaust is a little strained and it is not ideally loose on rubber hangers. In the future, I plan to bend or redo the exhaust hangers on WRX axle-back to eliminate the strain and fit them nicely.

 

 

 

Yes, I did widen the bumper openings a bit. I just used a Dremel and sanded the edges smooth. Then I used the 3M Black Vinyl Wrap to try to mask the poorly cut holes a bit. It's by far not perfect but looks okay. Some pictures below:

 

 

 

 

 

I randomly checked letgo last night and a guy posted a pair the day before for $90CDN

I bought them off him today for $80 lol

Can't wait to get them on...they sound and look so much better.

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It's good to see the forum still surviving. I'm not fully done yet.. but fixing my custom bumper.

 

 

 

And for anyone wondering what the "custom" bumper is (I'm sure you've seen me posting around)

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Yep that's the part....I envisioned this as well.....I'm praying that thing doesn't snap before I can get it welded. The biggest issue is the SSA pin needs to be drilled out to remove it now. So any welding would need to be done on a hoist with the part still attached to the car.

It's working for now tho....I'm enjoying the drive.

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After a few days of struggle I finally got my car back on the road today.....

Since I bought the car in 2017 and joined this fourm, I've steadily accumulated parts that have sat in my garage.

With COVID-19 cancelling my vacation, what a better time to play mechanic.

Over the past 3 days I've been busy....

Today I did the clutch damper delete 2 years after buying the part. What a difference...I feel like I know how to drive a stick again.

During the bleed process I noticed the slave hose was leaking, tried to change it but one of the nuts is seized. Gonna have to order the line from the union to complete the job.

Before I did the delete I finished installing my SSA. The 90 degree post broke at the weld during install so that extended my installation time by 15 hours. Had to waited for the JB weld to cure... worked like a charm.....for now. I put in the brass bushing on yesterday as well so my driving experience is everything I want it to be.

On Tuesday I changed my bumper cover, installed back face-lift headlights, installed fog lights, and added the v-lip spoiler....

Looking good now just need some new paint.

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The perpendicular post the holds the brass bushing snapped out of place. It was a clean break right at the weld point....

I used some JB weld yesterday to put it back and it's now cured for over 15hours.

Gonna try to put it all back together right now

Wish me luck

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I ended up going to Harbor Freight and picked up a set of punches. One is just the right size. I did end up pulling the crossmember off to gain access. Some were able to do it without though.

Ended up using my air chisel....got the stock one off...struggled getting the old pin back in....pulled out the air chisel...pin went in, but the SSA broke....

Can't get the pin out again....air chisel just smashed one end of the pin, can't move now.

Broken SSA stuck on the tranny...my only hope is JB weld....I'm scared now

If this doesn't work I'll have to drill out the pin and who knows what else

FML

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let us know how those headlights are, i keep thinking of picking up a set to refresh the pitted and yellowed stock chromies i've got but can't decide if i want to pull the trigger

I'll upload some pick later in the "what did you do ..." thread. Still working on a few things under the car. Can't get the damn pin out for the SSA. PITA

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When I got a similar message on my 2010 I had to eject the disc then load again...problem solved

You can try something similar with the SD card

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Today I changed my pcv valve and t-connection...pretty straight forward except for those damn factory clamps, tossed those.

Afterwards, I finally decided to stop being lazy and changed my own oil. Rotella T6 5w40 on sale at Canadian Tire. Bought a 5gal jug. hopefully this slows my burning oil issue.

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New headlights....blackout facelift....eBay

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I accidently installed timing belt is off by a tooth on the drivers exhaust cam and my idle was slightly rough. It also set an check light within a few miles of driving. My GT has crank and intake/exhaust cam position sensors. Even though the 2.5i has 2 single overheads cams vs the four dual overheads the GT has, I imagine the 2.5i has sensors for both camshafts and cranks therefore would set a code.

 

For your issue, I would check for simple items that the mechanic likely had off and could have forgotten to connect or tightened. For instance check the intake track clamps and all the hoses connected to the intake are connected.

I've changed the oil, changed the oil solenoid, changed the crankshaft position sensor...still keeps coming.

I don't want to go back to that mechanic so I'm contemplating making the adjustment myself.....

Sorry for detailing the thread.... frustrated.

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Update:

I changed the downstream O2 sensor and both codes have been gone for a week now.

I spent so much time troubleshooting the camshaft position problem for no reason. Lesson learned. Stupid O2 sensor causing a phantom code.

Car running perfect again

Thanks for everyone's input.

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Update...I changed the oil solenoid, code came back.

I also checked the banjo bolt next to it and the filter was already removed. I read somewhere that was common a practice so I didn't question it.

I'm due for another oil change so hopefully it just needs another flush.

The next step I'll try is to change both O2 sensors, not sure why all 3 are showing at the same time, maybe there's a connection.

I'll keep you posted. Thanks for all the replies.

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Forgot to add....2010 legacy GT 6mt

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It started off with p0024, camshaft in advanced position.

I bought the car used at 165kms and wasn't sure if the timing belt etc had ever been changed and. Not sitting at 210kms so I dropped $900 just to be safe, couldn't hurt I guess.

Code came back so I decided to try the vvt solenoid, replaced that.

Not only did the code come back but now I'm getting 2 additional codes, p0037 & p0040. Both are O2 sensor codes, bank 1 position 2.

Any advice on why I could be throwing these 3 codes simultaneously? Could it be a working short? Does the O2 sensor affect the VVT solenoid?

I don't feel like handing any additional money over to my mechanic right now.

Thanks in advance for any help

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Were you getting misfire codes? It looks like those coils are nearing the end of their life.

I changed all 4 plugs and coils

She's humming now

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Changed all 4 plugs and coils this morning.

This site is a gold mine for reference on how-to-do's.

Took me 2hrs flat. No engine raise or drop, just used some creativity with my existing tools and ended up with a few hand scratches.

I highly doubt this was EVER done (2010 GT)

I've only had the car 2 years, but that being said, I don't want to ever do this again lol

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What are the wheels?

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20x9.5 Work Varianza D3S w/ 225-35-20

 

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Above average temperature today in Toronto. Sunny October afternoon, liked the view on my driveway.

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For a drop on Eibach springs do I need to buy new bolts for camber or will the factory ones work? What about the rear?

Don't forget the alignment!

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Mesh grille and twin horns added.

Debadged and blackout GT.

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