edmundu

Thanks for chiming in Christian! Your input is much appreciated!

No it's boost/fuel cut. I know what the boost limits are, and they were exceeded for 2 lines of the log, and that is enough to trigger the cel.... The denser air, allowed the turbo to crank up easier, so the 2.8-3.2k rpm band needs to taper the wgdc some more. Or using a base flash, we can add more wg compensation.

Never, ever, place anything but 0's in the last row under higher loads in particular, but I would just leave it at 0 across the entire row. (Because whatever value is in the cell last, stays. Effectively you will leave AVCS On. You only want it ON during the low-mid range rpm's, not after.) Start around the center 'ish of the table, and gradually add more timing advance. Keep the existing tapering model, and it needs more added in the lower rpm's. Say 3.2k & under. Now, the concept is simple. an engine is only an air pump. The more it can pump, the more power made. But to explain the details of AVCS is tougher, as it isn't very well understood by many, including myself. Ok, so at lower rpm's, you want to minimize the pumping losses associated with expelling the exhaust gases, so if you advance the intake cam timing: You are using the incoming charge to help blow out the burnt gases. And effectively allowing more time for the intake cam to be open, hence better cylinder filling. And secondly, by allowing the intake cam to open earlier, you are buying more time for the cylinder to fill with a fresh mixture. And thirdly, the bit of air/fuel mix that gets out unburnt past the exhaust valve will burn in the exhaust piping, helping to fuel the turbine blade, and this contributes to better spoolup. Now, the reason for not wanting any AVCS timing after say 4.8k rpm's , is that the engine is volumetrically most efficient in this range, the engine speed itself is no longer as advantageous, mostly due to having the incoming charge go right through the cylinder, and out the exhaust valve along with the burnt gases. Wasting the precious new charge unnecessarily. Especially since it took work to get it there, only to see it get blown out the exhaust. Now combine all of the above, and you have a pretty good picture of what AVCS can do. Caution: By changing around the AVCS timing, you may likely also need to adjust your primary timing tables, as these AVCS changes do affect the timing needed. So you have to watch your middle cell areas on the tables, and be ready to take some out, if you get some pinging. And finally, with the vfxx turbo's especially, and 18g's too, you will be getting the dreaded driveline vibration if you have tweaked the AVCS well. This is due to the increased torque being produced by the engine in the 2.5-3.5k rpm range;) I have purposely tuned this out on my setup, cause I feel I don't need that much torque in that rpm band:) And this really helps the bigger turbo's more so than the smaller ones.

I just looked at the details of the graphs, and the red curve was done in 14* cold dense air:eek: ! Compared to the map I sent you being logged in 80* air, huge difference. You really cannot compare the 2 with that big of an air temp delta. If you graph out the latest map I had sent, it fairs even closer to the original's(red), and yet it is still in 80* temps:icon_mrgr. This temp difference also has a direct impact on what MAF grams/sec you can flow....

No:p JK ask jon for it...

Nope, don't have this problem with ST.

Nice writeup! I actually have the same setup...Well almost. I used the Legacy lens & holder, and only used the projector bowl from the RX330. I also needed to trim a little plastic nub, on the inside of the housing. Without trimming it, the reflector woudln't seat properly.

Yeah that was my understanding...Although, as a business looking to make money selling a product, why can't they just buy a new OEM flywheel, this way, they can be assured of it being in spec, and undamaged in anyway. I mean, it costs like what $500 retail. A very small investment for R&D of a new flywheel, of which they will make good $$$ on.... The other clutch co. Bully Clutch, I believe had a similar statement for not building an LGT clutch..."waiting for a LGT core pressure plate"....Buy one!!!! Cheap bastard's...

Just received a reply back from "Dave Norton", and he said "They are currently seeking a sample flywheel from which to begin design. And to stay tuned and check back soon...."

email sent!

Yeah, just behind the mall, there is a townhouse complex, I live there! Wayne has a lot of traffic around the daytime and into the evening. Then it really thins out once about 9pm hits.

Haha...I thought it would be someone on here:lol: It was right by the Preakness Shopping Center, you were going up the hill, and I was sitting on the opposite side in traffic.

ABP Wagon on Hamburg Tpke, around 5:30pm.

I respectfully disagree. The pads have alot to do with braking capability. If they didn't then you would only need to increase piston size. Which in of itself will only allow a higher pinching point, but put thru the same size pads, and it results in almost identical braking. Except the larger psitoned caliper's will be able to lock up the wheel that much easier. There's a reason why swept area has everything to do with pad size & rotor size, and not with piston size. A cars ultimate braking capability lies within the whole package, and basing that solely on piston area and rotor size isn't telling the whole story. I have had a few of the mentioned combo's, and the addition of the rear brembo's, clearly gave more bias to the rear. It was felt in the seat, by the additional pulling from the rear.

Hey Ted, Using this calculator, shows the Brembo F&R setup actually improving the rear bias. And by just using the front Brembo's w/stock rears, is when you create more front bias. In driving with this setup, I feel the rear brakes grabbing more. You can actually feel the rear pulling down a bit harder. I previously had just the fronts, then both the F&R, and then also various pad combo's, along with ss lines. I think that the formula used to calculate the number's omitted a critical value, in the radial pad height. This determines the actual swept area of the braking system, and can shift how the brake bias moves. The Stoptech referenced formula has no provision for this, and assumes all brakes will have proportionately equal pad heights. Not true. The STI Brembo's are one of the largest production brake pads in the world, if this didn't matter then brake manufacturer's would use smaller pads, less cost, space, weight.

...Nah, it is NA, no FI, so not needed. Wifey wouldn't let me turbo or s/c it anyway:(. Although, driving this compared to my car, has me calculating any moves I normally make without a second thought. and the Ody is no slouch! Actually moves out for something this big...

This am, Rt287 South around exit 26. Silver LGT, w/exhaust. I didn't have my car, was in the wife's Odyssey.

I'm in!

Last night on Rt23 Northbound, at the Riverdale HD traffic light. It was a ABP sedan w/spoiler, and exhaust! I was behind you at the light, as you made the u-turn.... I was in the middle of a tuning session;)

1) What tire are you offering for review (size, model, type (summer, A/s, winter, race, etc), price paid, miles driven on tires, etc): Pirelli Pzero Nero M+S. Stock tire size. $148 ea mounted at Etd Discount Tire. 42,337 miles. 2) What is your geographic location: Northern NJ 3) What types of driving events if any (Track, AutoX, Commute , etc): Very spirited driving. 4) Percent of highway vs. city driving:75% highway,25% city 5) Tires used previously:Stock RE-92's & Toyo Proxes4 6) Your review and personal comments (Dry, wet, and snow, if applicable. Also, please compare to other tires used):I found these tires to be a significant improvement over stock in every aspect of performance, except with the exclusion of winter snow. They give the car a much more positive feel, like you are connected to the road with rails! They were quiet for the 1st 6/32 of wear, then they developed a humming noise around 40-50mph right up until I took them off. They also road stiff, a bit more than the RE92's did even. The snow performance of the Pzero's were really no better than the RE92's, so if you are thinking of using these as 3 season's with a touch of snow then they are perfect! The RE92's were ok in dry, pretty bad in wet, and surprisingly good in dry powdery snow. If it was wet/frozen slush they were terrible. I did get some good mileage out of the Pzero's, and they performed the same from start to finish, except for the humming noise near the end. I also briefly had Toyo Proxes4, they were much worse than the RE92's, in terms of road feel, noise, and their grip didn't impress me. They are awfully loud, constant drone on the hwy, and mushy soft turn in, no matter the air psi. I returned these within 2 wks to get the Pirelli's. I now have Conti Extremes in 225/45/17 and so far they seem to be the best of both worlds for me. I'll follow up with a review on them once I have a few more miles, and some winter snow driving on them.

Not sure, we'll find out later tonight.... Although I'm not sure the 700* temp rating is enough to tolerate an UP connection, but it should be able to tolerate the DP side:icon_conf ?

Watchin', please......I'm still watching them now! Anyway, I was able to get some copper rtv on my leaking MR exhaust, and swapped out my destroyed front Ferodo pads! I couldn't believe how I didn't grind metal on metal, the inner pads were that worn.... Didn't have time to order new good pads, so I went with Duralast Gold, actually not a pad looking/build quality pad. Came with riveted heat shield, low pad indicator, and are semi-metallics with a lifetime warranty to boot! We'll see how they hold up to my braking style.....

ABP w/newly added bug deflector, getting dried after being run thru Wayne Car wash....I also think I know who it was..... Looks like someone was getting ready for the meet in Montville! Too bad I couldn't go....

:lol: The wheels are actually steel grey, but with enough Ferodo dust they appear like you described! I'm pretty sure that was me...

^^ It's not that tricky... If they tune Subaru's using another reflashing tool (Ecutek), this will be even easier. The Real Time tuning aspect of ST is great. No wasted flashes, trying to hone in on the right balance of settings. About the only drawback w/ST, is you don't have access to as many tables as a Protuner(yet!), so you might have some issues with non-stock type injector's, and what not...