Brett_dub

Yes, but i ordered based on Subaru’s online parts diagram which has two options for the bolt in that location. Neither of the parts they listed had the filter, which is why I now have trust issues. I have that bolt, with the screen, and the bolt has the same protruding circle on the head.

Would anyone be willing to remove this bolt and take a picture of the hole for me? It would be greatly appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I should say i know its incorrect, based on the subaru parts diagrams. What is messing me up now is, what bolt belongs to the oil feed line located right next to the scavenger pump? The options are number 1 (the link from the previous post) Number 2 ( https://estore.subarupartswarehouse.com/p/Subaru_2010_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/Turbocharger-Oil-Line-Bolt/49227605/15194AA270.html) or Number 3 (pretty much 2 but with a screen/filter) Subaru lists number one and number 2 as options for the feed line bolt.

Got it. For some reason i thought there were two lines off the scavenger pump, but one is coming out of the head. The only line on top of the scavenger connects to the circled hose. The bolt pictured in the following link is whats installed in the top of the scavenger pump, which looks incorrect. https://estore.subarupartswarehouse.com/p/Subaru_2010_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/Turbocharger-Oil-Line-Bolt/49227607/15194AA420.html

I think that bolt in the top of the scavenger pump is my issue. Can someone please confirm that bolt should have a good size hole in the side (maybe quarter inch) and not a pinhole. This would cause the the scavenger pump to struggle to pull out oil. Please be this.

So I did check the restrictive banjo bolt that goes in the turbo and it seems almost impossible to have the wrong bolt in place there. The bolt is actually a smaller thread size than anywhere else, and all other bolts would not have fit in that oil line. As for the banjo bolts in the scavenger pump. The bolt in the top of the scavenger pump has a dimple in the head of the bolt and a restrictive hole similar to the one on the turbo, and the one that goes in the back has a larger hole similar to the turbo coolant pipe banjo bolts with no filter. Routing of the pcv lines seem okay from what I can see without pulling the intake. The lower line of the turbo oil pan runs to a hard pipe connected to the scavenger pump while the upper joins to the correct line of a pair of hard pipes.

working on things now. Does anybody have any good angle pictures of the routing for the pcv hoses? I’m going off of parts diagrams and it’s tough to tell their end locations.

Just out of curiosity, does anyone know if the scavenger pump is feeding oil to the turbo or pulling oil from the turbo? Based off the name I’d assume it pulls oil back into the head from the turbo.

Just got Bryan on the phone. His advice is to check the pcv lines and if all is well there, check the restrictor banjo bolt.

Turbo is soaked inside. It doesn’t smoke for a little until the car warms up a bit. My thought is that the oil is getting inside the exhaust after the manifold. There should be constant smoke from startup on if the oil was burning in the cylinders, but being that the turbo gets hot from exhaust gasses alone, I think I’m looking at the turbo as the issue. Whether it’s the seals or the pcv/oil lines is my next investigation. If I end up stumped in that investigation, I have another stock vf54 to test with.

I have to check that as well. I did my best going off pictures taken before tear down, and I’m pretty sure I got the pcv lines right, but now I’m hoping I didn’t..

Obviously I still need to check the remaining plugs to make sure there’s no oil at any other plugs (will do so tomorrow) but any ideas regarding the hoses to the turbo? This is a freshly built bnr 18g

Pulled cylinder 2 plug and had no oil on it. Dropped the j pipe off and saw the entire inside of the turbo is wet with oil, all the way down to the tips.

Building the engine was a lot of fun, but boy is this break in stuff nerve wracking. After priming the oil pump and reinstalling the fuel pump fuse the engine started right up. Then it dumped the oil out of an open bolt hole in the back of the head. This was caught immediately and the engine was shut down. Installed the bolt, topped off the oil, and tried again. It ran okay for about 30 seconds before my extra set of eyes saw the smoke at the exhaust. Lots of it. I assume some smoke might be normal with assembly lube still in some areas, but this was clouding up the driveway. Spoke with a mechanic friend who mentioned it may be a result of the rings not being seated yet, but 10-20 minute drive of light acceleration(base map tune, so no boost), jumping off the gas to allow for vacuum, has not seemed to change anything. Vacuum is reading around 11 lbs when I let off. The boost got slightly over zero near the end of the drive and threw a p0014 code almost immidiately as I crossed into boost, and the af shot up to 19 I’m not sure if this needs more attempts at seating or more checking around under the hood. The car smokes at idle, when first getting on the gas, then clears up slightly, then completely goes away at full vacuum. Any thoughts? Engine sounds like all is well A/f is holding around 14-14.7(as long as it see no boost) Oil pressure light stays off No knock detected I’ll be calling the tuner who also builds a lot of performance subaru engines when they reopen Tuesday, but wanted to see if anyone has any thoughts on an easy fix.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I still have to get to the garage for the pictures. My local dealership was able to get me what they claim to be the only fuel pipe Subaru of America had left in stock. 17542AA140 will be discontinued if what they told me was true. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll post a picture when I go back to the garage.

I’ll try a few other places then. Thanks for that. As for the rust, mine was in mass for 210k and another 40k in Jersey. I’m replacing bolts left and right, heat shields were almost completely rusted off, so I’m painting anything that looks solid with high temp engine paint. I did the turbo coolant pipes at 210k when they crumbled, so those are just getting painted, but the salt on the roads in the northeast literally eats cars. Probably didn’t help that it came without a splash guard.

I found a few pretty bad areas of rust on the fuel lines that run under the intake manifold. I tried ordering the part from Subaru only to have them tell me that they cant get it.. anywhere. Its on the various Subaru parts sites, but multiple companies have told me they cant get it. Has anyone switched over to IAG fuel lines without going to parallel fuel rails?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Spent the better half of the day talking with a friend who’s been building race engines for longer than I’ve been alive. Got a good lesson in ring gapping and here we go! Top ring will be gapped somewhere between .020 and .023 for the target boost somewhere between 17 and 25 lbs. Second ring gets gapped a little larger (0.025) to avoid trapping gasses between the rings which would cause the rings to flutter. 3rd ring seems to be the least crucial, but will likely be gapped at .015 inch. This is a long tedious process. Slow and steady with a hand file making sure to keep the gap square and only filing towards the center of the ring. Take a little off, measure, repeat. It would probably be easier with the right ring filing tool, but according to my friend, this method can yield the same results with just a little more patience. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s the enabling I needed! And just in time! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bryan at BNR received the turbo on Monday. I had thought I had my mind set on the 18g, but I’m now realizing the turbo would be all tapped out right around 350 whp. Is it true these transmissions can only handle 400 torque?