Brett_dub

Ok, so it’s an internal leak passed the diaphragm and not a leak to atmosphere.

I’m not sure I’m understanding your logic on this. The maf is the only component monitoring the total air coming into the engine. If you lose air that the maf already accounted for, the engines going to expect that air to get to cylinder. You want everything sealed after the maf to ensure the computer doesn’t get confused. The bpv is also after the turbo, meaning compressed air is escaping and the turbo has to work harder to hit peak boost.

That’s what I was hoping they would do, and after speaking with the owner that’s the route they’re going to take. Unfortunately the wastegate wouldn’t open until 22lbs, and wasn’t fully open until 25lbs. I swapped an oem actuator this weekend and will retune the Thursday after thanksgiving.

Has anybody had any experience with the bnr 18g overboosting? I dropped the car off tonight and it will get on the dyno on Thursday. I expressed that the car may overboost with the catless downpipe, and they asked me what boost I want to run. The car has ARP head studs and the 18G is ported. I also have the Sti cams to help with exhaust flow, but I’m not sure where it should be capped. They also mentioned that 5th and 6th gears are where I would see an overboosting issue, and they only do pulls in 3rd and 4th. I need to get them an answer by tomorrow night. Eeek!

I know your coming up short in boost, but your vacuum looks like it’s in good shape. If it were a leak and only occurred during boost but not in vacuum, it may be some component of the charge piping system. The stock bpv is prone to leaking above 12 psi. Is this something happening consistently in one gear at on rpm, or all gears at that rpm. Any other symptoms you notice? Have you done plugs recently? You mentioned bucking which makes me think misfire.

Where are you located, and how long have you been running the tune? I also had the 93 OTS map and my car would seem to lose power in colder “boost” weather. I always just assumed it was to prevent over boosting, but it was consistent with changes in ambient temperature, and happened every winter.

Thanks! Never knew Garrett had an option for us. It looks like better quality than the mishimoto as well. Just ordered!

With dyno day approaching sometime in the next few weeks, Im looking into my options for a new intercooler. From what I’ve read, grimmspeed is the best quality option. Not that I want to start cutting corners on the build, but the mishimoto is $520 as opposed to $850. Was curious if anyone’s running the mishimoto.

I knew the day would come when it needed a rebuild. At 208k when purchased, I really didn’t expect to see as close to 250k as I did, and I drove it drove it. I’ll probably reach the break in mileage in the next couple of weeks, and then the tuner will get it on a Thursday (Only day of the week they use the dyno). I can’t wait to see what it makes. That N1 catback with catless j pipe is loud, and I expect this thing to scream when it can finally see boost. I drive pretty aggressively in whatever I’m driving, so keeping it under 4K and out of boost is pure agony. No one used to notice this thing on the road, but now I get all kinds of subies and sports cars lining up with me on the highway and I can’t do a thing. It’ll be nice when I can finally play with them.

After deleting the tgvs, the idle was still wonky. I dropped the car off at my tuner to have a look at it while they resealed the oil pan and replaced the front sway bar (I messed up and installed the 3.6r 26mm instead of the 2.5 26mm). They replaced an o2 sensor that was causing the weird idle, but also noticed that the avcs on the RH exhaust cam was sticking. I drove the car home and replaced both the avcs solenoid and camshaft sprocket on the passenger side exhaust can. The car is now running well. I’ve logged about 60miles of city driving so far, but have to wait 300-500 miles for the clutch/engine to break in before it sees the dyno.

I think even the screen bolt has narrower passages for the oil to flow through. I just got my car back and smoking has gone down to almost nothing after putting the right bolt in place. There was still a ton of oil in the intercooler and intake track, but after running for a while, most of that oil has burned off.

Just out of curiosity, did you check the banjo bolts on and next to the scavenger pump?

This sounds identical to my current issues. I swapped the banjo bolts, but a separate issue arose where the idle was going up and down on its own, and never got to run the car long enough to see if the oil issue was fixed. I dropped the car off to the tuner/mechanic yesterday, but they won’t open to begin working on it until tomorrow. If they figure it and manage to correct it, I’ll let you know what was done.

The banjo bolts a was referring to are on the scavenger pump on the rear of the passenger side head. As for the turbo there are 3, and none of those are likely your issue. There are two towards the front of the car for coolant, and one on top for oil feeding the turbo. The one on top, I believe can’t be wrong, as it is much smaller than the standard banjo bolts. In the area of the scavenger pump is where the banjo bolts are that you need to check.

Ouch.. can either of you take a pic of this drain your referring to? I’d like to clear mine out before this happens, as I’ll be upgrading that amp under the passenger seat in the future.

Thanks guys, I ordered the bar for the 2.5i which should be at the dealer tomorrow. It looks like the bar ripped the nut almost clean off the endlink, so it was making some pretty good contact with the pan, but the car was only on the road for 10minutes since the rebuild. I’ll be bring the car to the tuner to do the reseal and the sway bar, as well as to diagnose why the car is running rich. Hopefully it doesn’t need a new pan.

Noticed a small drip of oil under the car and it seems to dripping off the center of the sway bar. I recently installed the 3.6r stock sway bar while the engine was out. Now I’m noticing the stock one for the GT has a notch in the center to accommodate the oil pan. Is anyone running the 3.6r sway bar in a GT without this issue? It looks like the sway bar may have broken the seal on the lower pan and is dripping onto the bar.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/tons-smoke-after-rebuild-283647.html This thread has some of the details.

My freshly rebuilt turbo was just puking oil too! I haven’t confirmed yet that swapping them made a difference, but confirm your banjo bolts on the scavenger pump and the turbo feed line didn’t get mixed up. The pickup line from the turbo oil pan to the scavenger pump should have a banjo bolt with wide open hole on it, similar to the one for the coolant. If it’s got a pinhole like the one located on the turbo oil inlet, then it’d be sucking oil out through a straw, and leaving to much in the pan.

I went through this last weekend after deleting the tgvs. The fuel rail cover bracket on the drivers side normally has a ground bolted to it. After installing iag deletes, the cover no longer had anywhere to bolt to. I had to relocate the ground elsewhere on the block. I had similar issues while trying to find a good place to bolt it. The Christmas lights were cutting in and out and the accessport was reading please connect to obd2. Found a good bolt that held on the coolant pipe and it started up fine, just had to extend the ground wire.

After working on an issue with oil getting into the turbo, I noticed another issue. The cars idle would jump all over the place if I didn’t have my foot on the gas. I ended up smoke testing the intake system and found a leak at the rear of the passenger side tgv (under the small cover held in by two philips head screws). I ordered and installed a set of IAG Tgv deletes, and will hopefully have the car running right after receiving the updated base map.

I wasn’t too worried about mileage when I got it. It was driven a lot, so I assumed highway miles(208k in 7 years is about 30k a year). I drove it like I stole it for another 40k and hadn’t addressed major oil consumption issues knowing a rebuild would come. I ended up overheating the car at 248k and cracked an exhaust valve. Right up until the overheating it ran great.

Well, time to update. Started my engine replacement back in April and just got it back in the car a couple weeks ago. Project began after a bad misfire developed from burnt exhaust valves New Short block Replaced stock pistons with Manley pistons Heads rebuilt by HeadGames Motorwerks Brian Crower Spring kit Brian Crower Intake and Exhaust Valves Bronze Valve Guides OEM 2012 STi Intake and Exhaust cams New OEM Oil pump and Scavenger Pump New BNR 18G Turbo Cobb 1050x Injectors TSK-03 Snout Repair Sleeve and Throwout Bearing Versus Forged Clutch Fork and Pivot Ball ACT SB11-HDSS Kit w/ Lightweight Flywheel Breaking in the car on a Precision Tuning Base Map Dyno Tune to follow after clutch and engine have been broken in.

So does your bolt have a dimple and a screen? My dimpled bolt has a pinhole, but the protruded bolt has the filter.

Well my top scavenger pump bolt is wrong and has the dimple, with the tiny pinhole. I believe swapping just that bolt out with proper wide open turbo line bolt will fix the issue of too much oil. When I started it for the first time the scavenger pump was trying to suck oil out through a pinhole. I’m thinking it just couldn’t get it out fast enough. That feed line is messing me up now, but really may make no difference since the other end of that line has the same pinhole. The one I posted a picture of is what’s been there since I bought it. That has a filter. Your’s does not, but if it has a dimple, is also super restrictive. Then Subaru’s website says it may just be wide open. I don’t think I can pick the wrong one for the feed line, since the restriction is at the turbo regardless. I’ll let you guys know how things go when I start it up again. Just waiting on a replacement part from Subaru.