JRu17

Wow, so I bought the morimoto fogs back in 2019 and due to financial circumstances I finally got them installed. One works and one doesnt so I contacted theretrofitsource and two years later they still have great customer service! They're sending me a new light and he saw in the picture I sent I had a lamin-x film on the fog light so he threw in another one free of charge! I highly recommend these guys

Mine did this too. At about 35000 miles, a few months ago. Needed a new tcm or something. They said it would have cost 1600 for the whole repair but thankfully even though my car is 6 years old it had less than 40k miles. I wont ever go CVT again. They fixed it but now I just had to replace my rear hub bearing assembly which was 300+ and my car just reached 40k miles. Apparently its known the rear hub bearings are sh!t so we replaced it with a Moog one. About a week ago my car started idling rough after a few min as if it was going to stall. Felt like it was down a cylinder at first then drove like normal. I thought air filter, spark plugs, or injector but they were fine. I'm tired of a car with 40k miles giving me these issues that it shouldn't be having. I'd trade it in but all I'd get from subaru is 8 or 9k, itd be worth more to save it.

I just had to replace one of the rear bearings as well. My mechanic went with Moog too. I just hit 40k miles and thought that's kinda low

So I finally get around to putting the fogs in and am realizing I bought the SRF steering responsive fog light switch and I need the Regular switch NOT the SRF. That's probably why it's so cheap, where can I find the regular switch, I'm only finding the SR one

I just looked at the service paper, I took a pic of what they wrote I'm trying to upload it

Subaru repaired or replaced the tcm and they told me my cat was recalled and they replaced my cat, both under warranty

My mechanic looked the car over and there was nothing visible. No CEL codes and when he went to scan the TCM it wouldnt let his scanner in. I had to get it towed from the mechanic to the dealership. Now I'm just waiting to hear from the dealership what they find.

Havent changed gas stations, new battery, oil change in a about 500 miles. No visible damage. No check engine light. The mechanic was busy yesterday so they're fitting it in today. 2015 2.5 premium 37,xxx miles

I'm sitting in my car and when I turn the car on, I had my foot on the brake when I put it in drive. The dash starts flashing vehicle Dynamics control see owners manual, transmission control system see owners manual, parking brake see owners manual. The car hasn't been running right lately. About a week ago I was picking up a friend and the car started idling rough. When I was driving them home the car started rattling but I thought it was the exhaust hangers. The car doesnt handle as it did before. There were a lot of clunks and rattling and the wheels feel light they're going to fall off. The suspension was checked before but everything's bolted up tight. In neutral or park the car started idling quietly, but when I shifted into drive it was noisier. I shifted back to neutral and its quiet, drive and its noticeably noisier. My mechanic told me hes seen the parking brake lock up which maybe made the transmission work harder and overheat but then what about the vehicle Dynamics control? Idk what's wrong yet but I start work tomorrow and this doesnt help with me already being slightly anxious. Car only has 37,xxx miles for added info. Sorry for grammar I'm in my phone

They do offer Koni Yellows for our car. I have them, I'm waiting to get the springs before I install em

Whatever it is, no electric steering bs. I need mechanical.

I went with an Optima Batteries 8025-160 25 RedTop Starting Battery Model: 25 Weight: 31.7 lb C20 Capacity: 44 Ah Post Type: SAE Post CCA: 720 Amp Width: 6.75 in Length: 9.38 in Height: 7.69 in Reserve Capacity @25 Amps: 90 Minutes Voltage: 12 Volts Case Material: Polypropylene Case Color: Dark Gray Cover Color: "OPTIMA" Red Group Size: BCI: 25 Internal Resistance: 0.003 CA: 910 Amp I have not one complaint. The first thing I noticed was that it's about 10 lbs lighter than stock. There have been some frigid cold mornings and the car fired right up no issues.

I have the 20mm STi RSB, Kartboy rear endlinks, and the Whiteline RSB support braces KBR15. I think the SSD looks stronger from the pictures alone but I havent seen them in person. My next two handling mods are going til be a front strut brace and Whiteline Sub008 springs but I'm saving up for them.

I noticed Nameless Performance now has a front strut tower brace for our cars. I'm curious which is better, the SSD or Nameless

So the larger whiteline rear sway bars come with support braces. I went with the STi OEM 20mm rear bar with Kartboy endlinks. I finally got around to getting the Whiteline KBR15 and put em in today when the car was on the lift for an oil change. Havent driven around much yet so I cant say if I notice them yet

I went with stoptech slotted rotors and Ferodo ds2500 pads. Huge improvement but also squeaks sometimes

Thanks, you're a true pioneer. If it works smoothly I'll get a set and use em with the konis. What struts are you using?

That's the reason I went kartboy. From back in my WRX days I remember other brands were noisy. I havent heard one noise or experienced any NVH from kartboy. And yes bent links mean you arent getting the full benefits from your upgrade.

Have you seen them next to the kartboy links? When you upgrade the swaybar and leave the stock links you're only as strong as the weakest part

19mm? Go with the 20mm STi bar and dont look back. It's under 100 dollars. If you can afford, get a set of kartboy rear endlinks with it, when you replace the stock ones with the kartboy you'll see why and thank me At SubaruOnlineParts its 88.45 with the 20mm bushings. Cheaper than I found the 19mm. https://subaruonlineparts.com/mobile/subaru-outback-rear-20mm-sway-p-3969.html

Can anyone confirm if the Whiteline springs work for our car? https://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=WSK-SUB008

I have the Ferodo DS2500 pads with stoptech slotted rotors and it's a giant improvement form stock. If only goodridge made ss lines for our cars.

Yes just cram a panel popper tool (the smallest you have)

Just put film on the other lens. Was able to do this one in about a half hour. Also looks like shit but as long as it protects the lens and doesnt mess with the output or make weird spots in the lights I dont care. I'll be installing them into the car today or tomorrow