Wasted Potential

Sparco Pro Corsa, just debating between light silver, or black. I actually want to powder coat them gold, or anthracite grey the wagon is obsidian pearl. Sadly they are still heavy, 24 lbs each, ouch. I might change to a different setup from tirerack just due to weight, but I am not looking to spend $220/rim.

I contacted tirerack directly and it seems they DO have the rims I'm looking for so I will be going with 18 inch rims. I will be on 18x8 at +45, so now I'll be back onto, 235/40/18 or 245/35/18. Seems I'll be in the same pickle of if I want to go with Swift springs I'll most likely have to roll the fenders. Looking at H&R springs due to desire to not touch the fenders.

I'm very attracted to TSW Nurburgring's, and there is a nearly mint set within a few hours for ~$600. After seeing the DGM_WAG ride height and clearances, I am rather focused on that setup. The issue will be... getting the rims and tires I want for ~1.2k, or go with other 18s that are less desired, but still going to be ~1.4k. I was looking for the 18" Sparco Pro Corsa but they say "sold out for the season." Next option is $50 more expensive per rim.... My driving is 85% highway, 15% city at 20-45mph. I just need to make sure there was no rubbing issue on his setup, and that I won't have a bigger problem due to non Bilstein shocks regards to rubbing/bump. If someone had a similar combo 19x8, +45 on 235, 245, or even 225 and they can acknowledged they rubbed or that there was a profound issue, then that will sway my opinion to 18s. I am one of those looking for high street performance when it seeks "spirited" drives at best

I'm seemingly on the edge of "will it fit?" 235/35/19 on 19x8 w/ +45 offset. Will be on a factory ride height knowingly it will fit first, but will this fit on swift springs? Seems it has before, but it looks so close I am starting to worry about any little bump... Additionally, DGM_WAG used the swift spring and Bilstein setup that requires spec B top hats I believe, and I think that raises the front end. I intend to ise the Koni inserts into the front struts. Therefore i will have slightly more front drop? By the pictures, anymore drop looks impossible to turn. See post #1930 under DGM_WAG here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/official-aftermarket-wheels-thread-11208.html?p=4463571 Followed by post #3852 here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/need-see-hooked-up-wagons-volume-1-closed-26202.html?p=3661184#post3661184

Cannot search at the moment, anyone aware of any cosmetic or body posts about before and after rust repairs on these 4th gen LGTs?

How do you feel about the valvebody for before boost rpm around town? Did you send in a spare for them to mod and replace yours with it or just send yours in? Any pictures of before and after for rust and an idea of cost?

Any rust for you guys? Specifically in front of rear wheels between the door?

Didn't know Cobb made a catless?

Don't mean to be a pest, but any updates on the wonderful work?

I was looking at one of those with the supercharged v6! Guess they are pretty reliable. Can buy a tune and upgraded pulley and make over 400 ft wheel HP I think. Maybe it was 350whp?

Ah... Replace slave cylinder and clutch/flywheel. Yup, you're right.

Sound only came on when engaging/disnegaging clutch and was it specific to one or the other (engage or disengage)?

I haven't read through all other posts or that one (I'm sorry), but you did isolate it down to the transmission and not the CV shafts correct? Also, try putting the car on a lift and try replicating it by running through the gears.

Well... Ya, I don't have any clever joke for that one. Those were screwed!

That's a good point... Wonder what the cost on a custom aluminum shaft would be as new OE is 450+?

I thought they would be more rally cross friendly (gravel and dirt) a lot of brittle things unexpected sadly

After running into ABS sensor issues. I realized how finicky they really are... these Subarus are 'relatively' off roadable and hardcore... a.k.a. I would never take one off road if I planned to daily it haha.

NY safety requires a LEAK to fail. Doesn't matter if it is all damp and moist, needs to drop.

Salt for days here, just like you can never buy a late 80s to mid 2000s GMC or Chevy truck without the brake and fuel lines rusting out, the LGTs around here do the same because of the immense amount of salt used... I'm sure local plant life loves it...

Plan on doing an additional trans cooler and/or valve body upgrade? Not sure if you had to go top feed for those injectors unless they offer side feed? Sorry for all the questions, the 5EAT is nice for a change over a manual. Clean car!

Curious what that will make power wise on 91/93, plan on E85?

I am excited (and scared) to go cobb stage 2 OTS tune with supporting mods (scared because of the low compression component). This will give me proper consensus on if I desire an HTA 68, or vf52, or any of the higher dollar mods. If the motor lets go, there is funding afoot if necessary. I only had a 400whp 70mm turbo foxbody, but at nearly 2950 lbs it was plenty quick and sketchy with 30 year old suspension, and drum brakes in the back... sold the motorcycle, and now enjoy the more "wise" things, family, dog, etc. So you mention the enjoyment one can have at merely at 300whp and I feel that is precisely where I am looking to be, only 20 years ahead of my age group! Also, when we compare power and speed... just think, the 2020 tesla roadster base model will have over 7400 ft lbs of torque... if we gain 100 or so with an upgraded turbo and other mods, we are still little fish in a big pond!

I am a noob to EJ motors, from what I gather, these motors can handle 450 Flywheel HP (350-380WHP) fairly reliably (except for short pistons and ringland failure or oil starvation). Gkinslow has a valid point. Where will you want to max out power wise (reliably) and what's your current budget. One controls the other. Over the 350whp/400whp, the upgraded pump, injectors and turbo cost to get there is apparent. But over that (380+ whp) transmission, diff, axles, underwear, etc. become costly. P.S. I read a lot, and experiment little due to "empty-wallet-itis." Disclaimer: all of this info portrayed above is by a noob, take with two grains of salt, shot of vodka, and a lemon, sometimes preparation H too. P.P.S. sorry to hijack Max Capacity.

Heuberger Subaru in Colorado, short block for $1699 and $130 shipping. Rebuild your heads, slap it all together and transfer over other components and drive. Part number: 10103AC870

As you mention fuel pressure regulator. The 04-07 STi is a direct replacement and fixes the modulation that occurs at low rpm and high torque demand?