DadBod

92 Civic sedan > 93 Civic w/JDM B16 swap > 98 Saturn SL > 95 Nissan Quest > 2000 Cherokee Sport, 3" suspension lift on 33"s > 05 Mini Cooper S > 15 Fiesta ST > 05 LGT Wagon > 08 OBXT (still the DD) > 05 LGT Sedan > 05 LGT Ltd Wagon

You can just about tell around when I got a real job.

I got the covers from the marketplace here. But they can be found relatively easily.

Also, got the SpecB bumper fitted. Looks good.

Got it up and running today. Still need to flash the tune to it before I try to move it though.

Started putting the front end back together too. Needs paint, but I think it’s going to look good with the facelift SpecB bumper.

After installing my ID 1050x injectors I turned the key on w/engine off to check for leaks. I heard rapid clicking, so I immediately shut it off and what I found was that I had accidentally plugged the left over (from delete) tgv sensor plug into the injector pig tail on #4. Not sure that you’re having the same issue but the rapid clicking and flooded cylinders sounds like injectors are being energized not just stuck open.

Welp. Looks like this was it. Verified wires against the FSM and confirmed that I borked it plugging everything back together. New plugs to hopefully go in tomorrow. Oil already drained and refilled. Fingers crossed that it runs and that I didn't permanently muck anything up.

JDM headlights are supremely easy to open. You should definitely flip the shields.

IIRC the brackets on the lamps, bumpers, and fenders are different (and not interchangeable) from USDM to JDM and JDM to USDM. YMMV

hmmm...this might have my ca's problem. sorry, OP

Please tell me the solution wasn't a new short block

Alright, plan of attack for tomorrow (or this weekend):

• Mess w/injectors (they're ID1050Xs, might be worth sending them back to ID for cleaning/flow-testing as a CYA?)
   
  
• Replace spark plugs
   
  
• Drain oil
   
  
• Refill with fresh oil (thanks Prime Day!)
   
  
• Cross fingers and try to crank it again...
  

Bad news.

Pulled the TMIC, checked and cleaned all the grounds. Everything good there. Checked the chassis to head grounds, also good (and should be bc they were just replaced.)

Put a known good battery in - from the OBXT - cranked and got the same results as before.

Pulled the plugs, starting with cyl 2. Soon as the plug came out a rush of fuel came after it. Same with cyl 1. Plugs in 3 & 4 came out w/o a splash, but I don’t think they look good.

So, any idea what would cause cylinders 1 & 2 to flood? Bad injectors? Two bad injectors?

Pics of plugs for reference:

Just have to ask, the battery terminals are clean and tight ?

 

IMO you might want to start your onw thread so its easier to follow this problem.

Battery terminals clean and tight. (Had spent some time on the forum looking for similar posts and noticed you giving this advice multiple times. So, that was the first thing I checked. thanks btw)

New thread started to document the process.

Will be pulling the plugs later today to see if they're fouled, or if the cylinders are somehow flooded.

Battery terminals are new, clean, and tight. Battery fully charged. Alternator is new, starter is new (put old starter back in jic, got same result.)

No coolant loss, no oil loss.

:spin::spin:

Copy pasta from WDYDTY4thGTD:

Finally got the wagon running. Sort of... Discovered that my turbo oil drain line wasn't fully seated (wife not happy about the driveway,) and the DP to mid gasket is leaking.

Spent an excessive amount of time getting the drain line clamped properly, then tightened up the DP connection, now it won't start. Tested battery and starter, both good. Signal wire to starter is good. All grounds good. Tried with a jump box jic it needed a boost to crank. I hear rapid clicking when I turn to key on engine off. Sounds like coming from the throttle body. If I try to crank it I get one half crank then it sounds like the engine locks. I can turn the engine over via the crank pulley, so that should mean engine isn't seized, right?

Going to pull the plugs tomorrow, but I'm kinda lost on what to check next.

Finally got the wagon running. Sort of... Discovered that my turbo oil drain line wasn't fully seated (wife not happy about the driveway,) and the DP to mid gasket is leaking.

Spent an excessive amount of time getting the drain line clamped properly, then tightened up the DP connection, now it won't start. Tested battery and starter, both good. Signal wire to starter is good. All grounds good. Tried with a jump box jic it needed a boost to crank. I hear rapid clicking when I turn to key on engine off. Sounds like coming from the throttle body. If I try to crank it I get one half crank then it sounds like the engine locks. I can turn the engine over via the crank pulley, so that should mean engine isn't seized, right?

Going to pull the plugs tomorrow, but I'm kinda lost on what to check next.

I know of the difference between the different whites between USDM and JDM, how are the reds? Is there a matching JDM red or are they all a different shade like the white is?

Just a shade or so. Though it’s hard to tell how much is due to an actual different color formula, or how much is due to age/wear. It’s like they’re a couple variances apart. But hard to tell from ten feet. The front look darker than my side skirts. I’ll get some close ups once I have those on.

If I were guessing on paint mixes I’d say the JDM red likely has more blue pigment in the mix than the USDM, but less mica than USDM.

That axleback looks great, now you just need the shorter JDM bumper so they can peek out in all their glory.

I've been looking for one. Considering the amount of paint work I'm lining up might as well do the rear bumper too.

Didn’t get to start the wagon last week. Turns out I’m an idiot. I had measured for the trans cooler fitment and thought I was spot on, BUT I failed to account for the additional space for brackets and elbows. Derp.

New cooler due tomorrow.

Instead I did this - got the Wangan axle backs on, JDM tails, and rear spats. Not shown, I stripped the JDM SpecB front clip down to get ready to swap over. (Ignore the jack stands and Ravens bumper sticker.)

Gettin closer to turning it over...

Got belts back on, rad is in, trans cooler goes on tomorrow.

Excuse the mess under the hood, I haven’t secured everything back down yet.

Should work just fine the other way too (undo the pinch bolt and leave the BJ bolted into the LCA). I'm sure that doesn't really lessen the requirement of some heat and some generous donations to the cursing gods, though

FWIW that’s how I did mine recently. I was lucky that both pinch bolts came out clean. Left the ball joints in the control arms, but instead of a pickle fork I used a bull pin. http:// https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000302WP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PrUtFbHPJKGS0Something like this. Jammed it between the control arm and knuckle. Couple of very satisfying whacks and ball joints popped right out. (I can’t take any credit for this. Someone here posted this tip but now I can’t find the post.)

Made some more progress on getting my red wagon back on the road. Pulled the stock center pipe and mufflers to get ready to swap over an AVO mid and Wangan axle backs. Was hoping to save the OE muffler jic the Wangans were too loud, but they've chemically bonded themselves to the old center pipe.

Also got the timing covers off, figured I'd do the timing belt and water pump while changing everything else. Found what looks like brand new pulleys, tensioner, belt, and water pump... Since I already have the kit, should I just replace it all? I don't know how old the stuff on there is, but's definitely been done recently.

Also, what are everyone's thoughts on lightweight crank pulley vs. Fluidampr vs. OEM crank pulley. I have all three at the moment, just not sure which to put on when I button it back up.

Who are you ordering from??? It maybe my local guy

Global JDM Auto Parts. Good parts, good prices. Def worth a look/call/email before getting something shipping from Japan.