Subsandwich

For anyone with higher mileage, having issues with rough idle, a good throttle body clean may be for you. The throttle body hides underneath the intake manifold, but it's a 1-hour job (at least with my FMIC, I would assume somewhat the same with the TMIC though, cleaning the throttle body takes maybe 5 minutes, the rest is removing/re-installing the IC). Engine bay: The yellow circle (where the charge pipe and BPV lead) is where the throttle body is located. Angle from driver side. Charge Pipe/hose removed: With the charge pipe and silicon hose removed, you can see the Throttle Body. And a close-up of the throttle body. Doesn't look like much, but that gunk indeed caused a (barely) rough idle. Took some carb/throttle body cleaner ($4 bucks at Advanced Auto), a rag, and a toothbrush. A quick spray, wipe-down, another quick spray, brush, and wipe-down, and done-zo (forgot to take a pic). $4 bucks and less than an hour of my life and idle is back to nice and smooth.

Well, technically done yesterday, but got my car tuned for a VF37 on 91 w/ 18 PSI target, 90 degree weather. Results (DynoCom): HP: 286 @ 4950 TQ: 321 @ 4400 Asked for a conservative tune, satisfied with the results. Maybe I'll go for more after a rebuild (high-mileage motor). Current Mods: 2007 Legacy GT 2004.5 STI transmission Cobb AP3 VF37, OEM EL headers, TR catless downpipe Cobb 1050x Fuel Injectors AEM Fuel Pump Mach V Boost Controller Borla Cat-back GFB BPV

Thanks! I have a DCCDPro. Will try to check the DCCD pigtail once I get it to a lift (in the process of moving, and all my tools are packed away until mid July )

After further review of the 2004 STI FSM and 2008 STI FSM: The 04 Center Diff is Open, while the 08 C Diff (any other docs or healthcare providers out there?) has an LSD. The owners manual to both models seem to reaffirm this (the 04 just mentions the DCCD as a method to modulate F/R torque distribution, while the 08 explicitly states the DCCD acts upon an LSD). The AP Suretrac on the 04 STIs refer to the front differential. Based off of that, I am lead to believe that the issue with my car would be a non-functioning DCCD. Since the center diff is open, the torque distribution would remain in the default 35:65 configuration, resulting in a difference in the wheel speeds. Sound about right?

Thanks for answering that! It was bugging me that there were two different parts listed but no explanation to the difference other than the noted 10mm difference. I hate having unanswered loose ends...

https://www.exedyusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/2017-OE-Catalog_booklet.pdf For some reason the catalog states the FJK1007 works on the 09 spec B, but the FJK1002 doesn't. But if you select the 09 model on their website both kits pop up. Given yours is an 08 either should work.

https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-oem/exedy-oem-replacement-clutch-kit/g-50051.aspx?aid=9262797 Looks like FJK1002 or FJK1007 are direct fits

Need some help trying to troubleshoot something. I have an 07 LGT with an 04 STI trans. Tried to get it dyno tuned the other day, but the front wheels were spinning slower than the rears. I was working with a reputable tuner, and they couldn't get the wheels to spin at the same speed. I have a DCCD wired in, and they tried adjusting it but it didn't work. So the conclusion was that one of three components are messed up: the rear doesn't have the right diff ratio, the center diff is broken, or the DCCD is not functioning. Checking the 07 FSM, the LGT should have a 3.9 rear, which would negate the first thought... I think... That being said, I think something might be going on between the center diff and the DCCD. If the DCC isn't wired properly, then would the center diff just remain open? Would it remain in the 35:65 bias and would that explain the difference of wheel speeds? I'm not too familiar with the AP Suretrac diff in the 04 STI, and I'm not too familiar with Dynos, but anybody have any thoughts?

I know I know, the lid staying open shouldn't bother me... And for the most part it doesn't. But every now and then. It's like that one co-worker that you just want to work, that's how I feel about my console lid. I don't want to sink to much money into buying parts without knowing what exactly needs to be changed to be aligned. I'll probably end up MacGyvering a piece of plastic to extend the latch. If I get around to it, and if it works, I'll let you all know.

I saw a couple of posts regarding the center console lid not staying closed, and that it relates to hinges being bent. Anyone know any more specifics on this? Or what specific hinge needs to be replaced? Just in case: I have a 2007 Legacy GT. The center console won't stay closed. I removed the latch and it looks to be in good condition. The mounts are self-tapped into plastic so there's no way to slide it back or forward to adjust where the latch goes. As far as I'm aware when I play around with it, the plastic latch simply does not lock onto the bottom portion of the center console. Anyone else troubleshoot this without going to the dealer? Any tips?