Subsandwich

Yeah. I'm glad the gates kit has the red gap tool thingy. I'm surprised Subaru didnt list an SST in the FSM for it

Maybe check the throttle body. Sometimes they get gummed up.

Thanks both, I'm guessing the the OP of the thread had an AT since none of the guides were present. Couldn't see much else in terms of pics except for the gnarly cam sprocket broken by the vice grip. But it's good to know that the guides are there and serve a purpose.

All jokes aside, did a timing belt change without completely reading the instructions. Thus result was a hard crank no start. I did a few other maintenance things while doing the timing belt, and after all the troubleshooting I figured I needed to see if I messed up the belt. This is what I was greeted with Being impatient, I decided to just go ahead and purchase a replacement belt from NAPA for $240. Yeah... Apparently the little red thingy in the Gates timing belt kit matters... And eye-balling it doesn't quite cut cleanly. Rather it grates the belt. Anywho, is there a reason for that belt guide bracket thingy? I've read other posts where people did timing belt changes and found the bracket missing.

Just did my timing belt today, MT LGT. While replacing the water pump it dawned on me, why not run an AT radiator on the MT cars, and run the oil cooler thru the Transmission Cooler portion of the radiator? Anybody else have this thought? I tried searching here and NASIOC but haven't found anything. I'm guessing it might take away from engine cooling capacity, but it would seem like a super easy "oil-cooler" upgrade.

Wanted to post this last year, but for those who want their lid to close, this is the hinge that's jacked up: Mine would only move with extreme manual force, even after oiling it up. There was metal-on-metal grinding. Not sure what caused it, but in my quest to have a lid that closes I ended up having to buy a new armrest. Thankfully to parts-bin engineering, it's still in stock and sold new. P/N J2010AG000JD. Able to find it on eBay for cheap sometimes (at least I did so last year).

That's extremely reassuring to hear. I drive to save gas, so i rarely hit boost above 10 PSI anyway. Sometimes I just get bit with the wrenching/modification bug, and I need to be told that I'm being crazy.

This may indeed be a stupid question... but has anyone done a head gasket replacement just as preventive maintenance? For s**ts and giggles? Any major HG issues for high-mileage turbos? I know the HG issues were mainly with the NA models, but I'm getting ready to do a timing belt change, and in the spirit of "do it all at once" thought about the head gaskets. My car isn't giving me any issues or hint of concern that my head gaskets are going, it's really just a "why not?" since I'm stuck at home and not daily driving my car. Again, no signs or symptoms of HG failures. Car drives perfect. No coolant drain or oil consumption. I'm putting down slightly-more-than-stock power at more-than-stock boost (286whp @ 21psi) and my car has 160k miles. Any thoughts? My search game might not be the greatest, as I tried it on here and NASIOC and haven't really found any opinions on it.

It set me back just a little north of 2k shipped to Hawaii, but i think I've seen them listed some places for just under 1800. Damn that Hawaii tax...

The Hipermax S replaced the GTs, but they didn't have an LGT specific model, so I just went with the 2.5i coilovers (AF005). https://www.hksusa.com/news/hks-new-coilover-series-hipermax-s When doing a make/model search, the AF005 does return for the LGT models: https://www.hksusa.com/products/80300/AF005/4003 and when I looked thru their previous application charts, the coilover PNs were the same for both turbo and NA models. I never had the GTs so I can't give you the comparison:icon_cry:. What I can tell you, however, with great certainty that these are definitely better than Raceland Coilovers by far! To be fair, I don't do any track days, but am always trying to build my car with the "maybe I will eventually" mentality.

PM sent!

So I didn't install these today, but better late than never! Took 6 months from the time of purchase for them to actually arrive at my door. According to HKS the drop is -1.4 in up front and -1.3 in the rear for the Sedan. These ride amazingly comfortable! Although I did set my dampers for more "comfort" orientation.

Nice. I would inquire more about the ringland failure, mainly did it fail before/after mods, and if tuning was changed to help it out. The other thing to be aware of is the whole forged vs oem piston debate (I'm not an expert, just from what I read forged pistons may introduce cold slap, and burn more oil, and require another rebuild xxxxx miles down the road). Otherwise: - <edited> What area is it from? Rust belt states do numbers on the car - Nothing in the mod list mentions changing timing belt and all other consumables, since the engine was rebuilt it would've been good to get that done at the same time. If it was changed, ask specifically about what kit was used (some kits, which escape my mind, have been shown to fail earlier than expected) - Nothing mentioned about clutch in the mod list. Is it stock? Going out? How about master/slave cylinder? - Ask if the Banjo Bolt still has the filter or if it was stripped (again I'm not an expert, some people like it one way, other prefer the other). - Check the Turbo Bypass Valve (I don't see it listed in the mod list, sometimes they can go bad and limit boost, otherwise, some people rice out and convert to a BOV) - As always, it would be nice if you could take it out for a good test drive - Even better if you can get it to a lift and do a thorough inspection, or have someone else do a good inspection for you (check leaks around head gasket, not as common on turbos but this has been further boosted and rebuilt, check brake fluid color, look for fluid leaks, etc) That's all I can think of for now

Nice looking car with decent mileage. Being a PA car, check for rust (suspension parts, doors, engine bay esp around radiator mounts). Looking at the car I say: - The back is debadged. It was either done on purpose, or the car was resprayed, so check for body work - If you can get a mechanic to inspect it, especially for boost leak. After I bought my LGT, turned out that my stock IC was leaking and my BPV wouldn't hold boost past 11 lbs). - Check fluids and check maintenance records if possible. 100k miles I'd inquire about belt services. Given your experience with imprezas, you know the importance of oil maintenance. As for 2007, I have one, check the following: - Dashboard, door panels, horn cover - Touch and feel it, mine had a gooey, sticky feeling. After googling, this seems like a common issue. I ended up replacing my dash and one of my door panels. Will probably replace the other door panels as I find more. And I'm definitely looking to replace my horn cover. - Check the center console cover (the arm-rest thingy). See if it latches. If not (and you want it to) you'll need to replace it (I'm going to make a post on it later when I have time). - Check the trunk lock mechanism and see if it pops up without assistance. The Torsion bars seem to be a notorious failure point and my trunk only opens if I lift up while I press the trunk button on my fob. The remote trunk release in cabin is electric, so again, someone needs to lift up on the trunk while the remote release is being used. If I were in the market for an LGT and I were within a 100 mile radius, I would've checked this car out. Given the market I'm not sure if you can negotiate the price down, but that price actually seems pretty good (to me at least, to each his own)

Whoops. IDK where I got that it had a throttle cable. Thanks for the clarification!

I think they should fit all gen 4s. I have an 07. IDK if the cable-throttles are different from drive-by-wire pedals. So for at least 2007+ it should work

P/N: C8110FG011 For those looking for a little interior Dress-up, STI aluminum pedals are still available, and although the BL/P chassis isn’t listed as compatible they fit without modification. I installed them without taking the pedals out of my car. Installing the gas pedal cover is a PITA to install while fitted in the car, especially fitting the bolt through the holes (basically done blind) but it can be done. Just keep in mind how the brackets are supposed to fit onto the pedals for appropriate fit n finish.

PCV Inspection/Maintenance System Orange: - Required Parts: PCV Valve (Subaru Part 11810AA040), PCV Connector (Subaru Part 11821AA580). If you are able to remove the valve from the connector, lucky you, otherwise you’ll need both. Standard Intermotor makes a replacement part that has both pieces, V576, for cheaper than the official Subaru valve alone. - Other Subaru pieces may work with some finangling, but will likely not connect directly to the “PCV sensor” pieces. Again, this just grounds the connected pigtail, so you don’t technically “need” this part for a functioning system, as long as you ground the pigtail with something else. - To inspect, give it a shake. If it makes a noise, your valve is just fine. But hey! Might as well replace it while you’re here right? Or at least clean it. I didn’t have the complete assembly when I did mine, so I ended up just cleaning it out with some brakleen until it rattled again. Luckily I have an FMIC so it’s not too much of a pain to get to. System Yellow: - I haven't seen anyone really discuss this, but it may be worthwhile to inspect the PCV Pipe that connects the 2 valve cover vents to the Turbo inlet. Mine had weird orange gunk caked to the walls of the pipe, but it wasn't even 20% occluded so I think it's fine. - Be wary of messing with the pipe too much though! I tried removing mine (AFAIK it's held on by bolts that go to the Intake Manifold) but one of the bolts wouldn't unscrew (I think the metal threaded fitting in the intake manifold may have separated from the actual manifold, and now I can't actually take the screw out despite using extractors and prying and stuff).

General Information - What is the PCV System? In short, it’s an engine-protection, emissions-related system that vents blow-by gasses (gasses that pass from the cylinder combustion chamber, through the ringlands, and down into the crankcase) back into the intake system (as opposed to venting to air). - At the very basic level, a PCV system is a one-way valve out of the crankcase that allows the excessive pressure from blow-by to normalize. - The EJ255/7 PCV system is a little more complicated than a single one-way valve due in part to turbocharging. There are actually 2 components of the PCV system, and both systems behave differently depending on intake manifold pressure. - That being said, a faulty PCV valve that fails to open would result in decreased volumetric efficiency, and makes it into the FSM as a “sometimes” cause for: low output, hesitation and poor acceleration; surging; after-burning in the exhaust system; and excessive oil-consumption. The FSM also includes the PCV valve as a “rare” cause for: stalling after combustion, as well as a rough idle and engine stall. - Despite being a part of several issues outlined by the FSM, neither the 2007 LGT Manual nor FSM dictate a PCV inspection/valve replacement maintenance interval. So let’s take a look at the 2007 Legacy GT EJ255 PCV system. The specific parts can vary both per model year, as well as per EJ255/7 vehicle utilization, but will basically follow the same pattern. I’ve marked off the 2 systems in different colors. The system is located underneath the TMIC, behind the intake manifold, and under the main engine wiring bracket. System Orange: - Here gasses travel from the crankcase into a PCV Assembly (3-way plastic housing with the metal PCV valve branching out into the intake manifold. Blow-by gasses can travel freely to the turbo inlet no matter the condition, and can enter the intake manifold only under vacuum/no boost. Once the intake manifold starts making boost, the one-way valve shuts down. - The remaining branch connects to a white plastic “PCV Diagnostic Sensor,” which acts as a pass-through that connects to another hose that leads to the turbo inlet. This white piece clips onto the PCV Assembly, and has a socket that literally just grounds the connecting pigtail. System Yellow: - While this is part of the PCV system, this actually involves the valve cover gasket. I still don’t know exactly how or why, but according to what I read under vacuum/no boost air will travel from the inlet and into the valve covers and prevent the crankcase from having negative pressure (again, I’m not 100% on this, but people more attuned to the ways of Subaru have spoken) - Under boost and higher blow-by pressures, this system will act as a secondary path for gasses to escape.

There are lots of bits and pieces in threads here and there about the Subaru PCV valve. Mmaybe my search game isn't up to snuff but I had a hard time finding what I needed. So after trawling through various forums, I wanted to consolidated the information that I’ve gathered regarding the Subaru EJ255/7 PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system. I will add additional posts to this thread with more information, and some pics as well. Bottom-line up front: AFAIK there are no specific maintenance intervals for the PCV valve. Some places say check/replace every 30K miles. The biggest thing that made me look into the PCV system was finding oil in my intercooler piping, as it’s one way for oil to wind up in that tract. If you run an FMIC the PCV Valve/system is actually really easy to get to, while a TMIC will require removal. Look behind the intake manifold, under the main engine harness bracket, and between the throttle body and the turbo inlet. Voila, you should see a 3-way black plastic assembly with a silver nipple pointing towards the throttle-body, an end terminating into a white plastic piece connected to a sensor, and the final end pointing down towards the crankcase. Once you get to you have to deal with the “click-r” clamps to separate it from the bottom hose. There are special tools that can open this, but it’s easy enough to shimmy it open with a small, correctly-placed flathead, and somewhat difficultly closed with a small channel-lock (at least that’s what I used). The white plastic piece can be disconnected from the hose that runs under the intake manifold, then can be unclipped from the 3-way plastic piece. The actual PCV valve is stuck in the plastic housing (I’ve read that people are able to remove it, I wasn’t so fortunate). Some OE manufacturers sell the whole assembly as one (Standard Intermotor part V576 for the 2007 LGT), otherwise Subaru sells the plastic assembly and valve separately. How do you know if your PCV valve is bad? Give it a shake. If it rattles you are good to go. If not, either replace it, or give it a shot of brakleen to open it up. It’s a one-way valve, so you should be able to blow through the threaded end without issue, and should be unable to pass air through the nipple. Something that not many people have noted was the secondary PCV system that connects breathes/vents from the valve covers to the turbo inlet pipe. The plastic pipe that runs between the valve covers and connects to the turbo inlet can get really gunked up with love-juice. I don’t know how important it is to repair/replace, but it looks like an overlooked area that could cause some bad juju if clogged or cracked.

PM'ed

You could also rebuild your 5th Speed transmission. Apparently Rallispec makes a "Type STI" gear set for the 5 Speed Tranny. Looks like they fabbed up a way to install 5-gears from the 6MT into the 5MT. Just found out about it now, so you'd have to do more research into the cost of it, but that also sounds like a way to beef-up the 5MT without modifying much else on the car

The STI 6-speeds are strong and reliable, and USDM ones can be found pretty cheaply on occasion (not too sure about the current market though). However, if you choose to go that route, give the 6-speed Master Swap thread a good read-through. When I did my 6-Speed swap, I ended up going with an 04-05 STI transmission as it seemed to be the cheapest available, and I didn't need to upgrade my Rear Diff and get new rear axles (which would be required if you found a Spec B tranny). - One thing to keep in mind however, is that the 04-05 STI tranny seems to have 5th gear synchro issues. I wasn't aware of this, and ended up with a transmission that has a slight grind with aggressive driving when shifting into 5th. I've read that this was corrected from 06+, and that the 06+ synchros can drop into the 04-05 tranny. However, I've also heard that labor is quite intensive. - If you want the Spec B ratios, you could also order 6MT Long Gear ratio sets to drop into a non Spec B 6MT, but I'm not sure of all the nuances related to this If you live in the Capital Beltway area, I can recommend you to the shop that did the swap for me. Great people, great prices.

Decided to swap out the old, fogged up headlights. Talk about a lot of work just to change out the assemblies. Nothing fancy, but I do like the look of the black headlights over the chrome.