Becks1818

That was a great pic![emoji38][emoji38][emoji38]

That ^^^

 

Private selling. Depending on potential buyer of the car, mods may or may not be a good thing. The skid plate is coming off and the shift knob too. The other stuff...dunno. Maybe too much work for the reward.

 

I suppose I forgot about the APv2 ... That too.

 

Shipping is always a killer.

Installed new (to me) tires and tpms sensors. Tires are Procontact Tx ssr 235/50R18 and the sensor are oem subaru off ebay. Both used items, but the tires are between 7-8/32 and the sensors are 4 years newer manufacturer date stamp. Ateq took care of the tpms light. Speedometer is off a bit according to will they fit, but not enough to bother me. These should hold me over until I decide on wheels at some point. $300 for the tires, $50 for the sensors, and $60 for the mounting are tough to pass up when you're on a budget trying to get a house.

 

http://i.imgur.com/0dmFYl6.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/ZVK7oep.jpg

Thanks guys.

 

With your information and a bunch of internet research I have learned a lot today. It looks like my AFRs are good. I'm going to email my tuner about the weird feel at boost, the laggy feel, and the rough transitions. I think I will also take a log of those things happening and ask him to take a look. I'll also ask about the steady WGDC because I am curious, and because I'm interested in a broader usable power band. I'll also ask what he thinks is my limiting factor right now. I bet it's my ACN91 and stock turbo, but I'm interested in his thoughts.

My idle is kind of rough and rather stinky. I have gotten comments from strangers and coworkers that my car is running rich-

**What is your afr at idle ?

The car does not take the clutch as well. I haven't stalled it yet, but there are a lot more close calls.

**Ask him to adjust the throttle and make it more sensitive

The car is laggy. Full boost is around 3k rpm, where it used to be ~2600-

**What is the ambient temp? Could be the power limiting rule that adjusts the boost based on intake temp

The car feels kind of like it's bogging at full boost.

**Could be realted to your lean afr.

The car only hits full boost (18psi) for a brief window, ~700rpm.

**What rpm? Sounds normal due to our turbo design and size

The AFR at full boost is ~11, shouldn't it be ~12, or am I misinformed?

**12 is too lean. Mid 11's are safe

The WGDC is flat, no increase in lower rpms or higher. (that would explain my peaky boost?)

**Can't explain that.

The transition from WOT to partial throttle, or vice versa is sharp and jerky.

**Sounds like poor tuning and I'm assuming he didn't calibrate your MAF and TPS prior to tuning ?

Less important note: I thought with the FMIC I could run a little more boost. I know PSI isn't everything, but it's weird to me that I'm hitting lower with more intercooling.

** The front mount won't allow you to run more boost. It will lower intake temps which will allow for more consistent numbers and maybe a little more timing. Our turbos are pretty much maxed at 18psi anyways .

So am I crazy here? Do I have incorrect expectations? What are your thoughts?

You know, that actually looks pretty good with the factory wheels. They don't look sucked in. What spacers did you use? I've never used spacers before, but coming from the Jeep world, a lot there did (and do) to help with swapped in axle width differences.

I just took a tapemeasure to the lip of the rim, looked straight down the fender and based my spacer size off of that.

It completely changed the look of the car.

Now they will be retired as my winter set up since I've bought +35 offset rims.

Many of the brake rotor manufacturers dual drill their Brembo rotors so they don't have to carry 2 different part numbers. Yes, that should all work for the fronts. Rears are a different story on many fronts.

Reviving old thread.

I'm picking up front Brembo calipers from an 05 STi.

I noticed everyone is going with aftermarket dual drilled rotors. Is there any reason we can't just use a stock 04' STi 5x100 rotors?

The 2004 STi 5x100 rotors are the same size as 2005+ 5x114 at 326mmx30 and share the same center bore as our car at 56.1.

Seems to me like the would would just fine no?

well my car is still sick.. suffering from P0171 again.. at the Subaru dealer... none too pleased at the moment....

...in the first pic the edge near right side of the wastegate exit has been smoothed out, it's normally a sharper edge. In the other pic the wastegate diameter has been slightly increased.

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...sure.

 

 

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You can have wheels shipped to a P.O box ?

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Power washed the salt off of her today after I went to my PO box in Buffalo to pick up my new summer rims!

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No, I got the superpro set covertrussian did the how to with, and went with the .75 caster set.

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Ordered my lower control arm bushings.

 

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Resurrecting an old thread. Has anyone used this for mounting the AP? Just have to add a magnet to the bracket.

 

https://grabcad.com/library/iphone-5-car-mount-fits-into-subaru-air-vent-1

 

Here's the one I'm using (Amazon pics)

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I had a loud clunk pop in my front end recently and it was my front sway bar link that was loose. Only way to check that is to keep weight on the suspention and give it a wiggle.

If you suspend the car the weight of the unloaded suspention will firm up lose linkage and it will seem tight when you check it.

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Identical description of my rattle (GT,6mt). Which turned in my a louder rattle and catastrophic engine failure.

Go get it assessed at a Subaru performance shop before it's too late.

You can find my build thread near the top of the fifth gen area

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Nokian is hands down the best all weather tire.

Look em' Up!

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lookin good! what suspension parts do you have on?

She's on Gecko G racing 32 way adjustable coilovers and spacers on all 4 corners.

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Love how she sits.

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