Becks1818

This is what I run on mine...

 

 

Audi love for life

+35 will look suuuuuuper nice. Here's one that's sitting on 19x8.5 +45 on 245/40/19 and dropped on Bilsteins/Swift Springs, BUT with a 15mm spacers, so it actually works out to about +30. I think you'll love how +35 looks.

 

Positive. Talked with Tim tons when he was buying his setup. My own is 45 offset as well. 19x8.5 +45 on 245/40/19. Less than 1mm diameter difference than Tim's setup, so essentially the exact same fitment.

 

I usually use Timothy.B's car as a reference, since he's running almost that exact set up. This is 18x8.5 +45 on 245/45/18. The setup Niko will have will only be a scant 3mm further in.

 

http://i.imgur.com/Wy1bk6z.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/iKIUgfJ.jpg

AHHHHHHHHHHH....

 

I think it's clutch time... dammit........ lol

 

My options are ...

 

exedy and act... trying to figure out which to go with...

exedy 15952 + FF502A flywheel

 

ACT

 

SB11-HDSS

 

These two are readily available to me, i'm not sure... they are both equally reviewed/talked about.

Any negetive feedback I've read about must have been from people who ride the crap out of their clutch.

I just noticed most people here used 18x8.5 offset 45 with 245/45/18, Will the 48 offset fit? Should I cancel my order ?

Only 3mpg less in your GT!? I hope your only doing around town driving. The only time my fuel economy in my Cobb OTS stage 1 GT has dropped that low was when I am towing my boat. My lifetime average is 24.3mpg on Fuelly for my GT. (I probably drive 75% - 25% high/city)

Sorry about that.

I would still live with the crap mpg of the SRT8 GC lol

Damn no bueno, sorry hear that. Next time if you put blue painters on top it actually prevents this. I know it's not gonna fix the situation at hand. But for next time at least it will help, it will be hard to get them to pay for it. But worth a shot. Let us know how it goes

They will pay for it. Its in the works.

Becks... Isn't that how everyone in Ontario parks anyway? [emoji3]

You could park it anywhere you want. Curbs wouldn't make a bit a difference. You can park it like an A-hole but at the end of the day people would still admire it eventhough subconsciously they'd think you're a prick.

You'll be "that guy's [emoji38]

I think for 60k and shitty gas mileage I'd rather take a Raptor truck

One of my friends had the previous Gen Jeep GC SRT8; he averaged 13mpg on it. For the amount my miles I drive, I couldn't justify buying a car with that low of fuel economy for my daily driver. For 2nd summer car yes, but not my daily.

Not to mention my LGT doesn't get the best fuel economy now with the rebuild, mods and protune. What's losing 3 more miles per gallon ?

Kia Stinger GT AWD?

 

*flame away*

I am afraid of the Durangos reliability. Other then that it looks like a decent suv. Not a replacement for LGT though...

Yeah, agreed, SRT is cool. But I'm NOT an SUV/Truck guy.

Got my TGVs from Becks yesterday evening! Now I need to find time to delete the unnecessary parts.

Got a ride in a Grand Cherokee to the dealer's "other" lot to look at some SRTs, and with the passenger seat far enough up to let my kids + wife sit in the back, I was SUPER cramped in the front. Kept banging my left knee on the dash. And that was after turning nearly sideways to try to fit in. Sitting normally was a total no-go.

 

Based on that, would never even consider a GC..

I saw someone stomp on it getting on the highway over the weekend. Sounded awesome.

This is the goal. Same color and options.

I wanted to stay full recirculation and go with a design that looked as close to stock as possible.

 

So I went with the Turbosmart TS-0203-1223 Kompact 34 mm Plumb Back Universal Fit Blow Off Valve.

 

It was around 125 on Amazon, and I have to say it is working really well. I am thinking my BPV might of been not holding boost very well. But I don't have any scientific data to prove it.

 

I also zip tied the vacuum line before I slid it on and put a little spit on the barb fitting to make it more slippery and hopefully help glue it a bit. I remember hearing people use to use hair spray on barb fittings for extra bite.

If the head gaskets get replaced, the timing chain cover has to come off anyway so that would be fixed. The nearest subaru shop is Turn In Concepts. I know they do good work, but I feel just jumping the gun and asking how much it is to pull motor and do the work is not the way to go. They are still a 1.5 hour drive and I get shit by everyone when I take my car there and not to a local shop. My wife got so pissed when I took my WRX there for tranny work I thought she was going to throw me out of the house. haha :spin:

Dealer said both my heads and front timing chain cover are leaking oil. I was told the Timing chain is a "wet chain" meaning there is oil behind the cover. Is this correct? I was also told the head gaskets are not MLS but asbestos style.

 

I'm not 100% believing the heads are actively leaking. They cleaned it off and I'll look later to see if I notice any difference. Dealer says about $3500 to fix it. I'm going to take it to my mechanic and see what he thinks. Sucks.....

Should cost half of what the dealer is quoting.

Note* Don't waste your time JUST replacing the head gaskets. They will leak again if you don't replane your heads. A lot of people/shops make this mistake and wonder why their headgaskets keep leaking.

I'm on a partially custom FMIC. I started with the REV9 '10 WRX kit and tweaked it to fit. It's pretty large, but my research indicates that the difference in response and pressure drop between no intercooler (chemical intercooling) and a large FMIC is within the realm of statistical noise.

 

You're making me doubt myself... I might go out and see if I can adjust the preload...

 

It this is the case, why would it not be opening at WOT?

 

EDIT: Brain fart. My BPV is connected ~9 inches from the throttle body. It's discharging reflecting a pressure drop before/after the throttle. I just popped out there and adjusted the preload. It was softer than I thought that I had it set at. I moved it to a quarter turn below the stiffest setting.

Adjuster went to look at it today and said the failure is due to rust, which is an exclusion to the policy. So for now I am just going to have the dealer replace the one that failed and move on. I did ask him to check the coil for cylinder 6 since that was replaced about 18 months ago. If that one is rusted as well, should I be concerned that there is a bigger issue that needs to be addressed?