pseudonym

Finally got around to tossing tires onto the GT wheels I bought last fall. Now I'm in the market for new spacers since the 20mm ones I have on don't seem to cut it anymore. Is there a point where spacers are too big and they **** things up somehow? Sorry, that was just a random thought. Anyway, no pics of the setup mainly because the car just looks like a stock GT that was mildly lowered without a hood scoop and is also filthy. Anyone have any suggestions on how big the spacers I need to buy to make these stupid wheels sit more flush since 20mm isn't big enough?

I'm on a set of VLED's too but only closing in on a year. At this point, however, I would've had to change my halogen bulbs so I'm pretty psyched about not having to remove the bumper. I want to buy another set to use for high beams and just disconnect the DRL's altogether until someone comes up with a viable and moderately headache free wiring of another set of lights for DRL's.

Im kinda liking the idea of the city lights being the drl's since theyre so easy to replace.

I'm hesitant on the mustang fogs just because my fogs arent exactly held on by the stock tabs anymore since they've all snapped. Gorilla tape was the temp solution till I employed the JB weld and now they're fixed there so I'd likely have to saw them out at this point. Is there a write-up on here or some keywords I could search to see what level of a headache rerouting the DRL's will be?

Lets resurrect this thread. New question... Anyone toss any LED bulbs into their foglights? Is there anything I should consider before buying? There are a million and a half H11 bulbs on amazon to choose from and these were the first that I found with decent reviews. Also, has anyone disabled the DRL feature on the high beams and basically redirected the DRL feature to, say, the foglights? Seems like it'd be a solid option so that I can just replace my highbeams with a standard LED bulb and not need whatever extra piece of equipment thats apparently necessary when using LED's in a setup like ours where the highbeams and DRL's use the same bulb.

Pardon my ignorance on the matter, but are the pillowball versions a downgrade somehow? They look slimmer than the others and are also cheaper.

https://www.cxracing.com/index.php?route=product/compare Anyone know what the difference between these 2 are? One is pillowball while the other isnt? Not a huge difference in price.

This shouldn't have this effect on me, but absolutely infuriates me. I purposely avoided the coilover route because of the ride on my last car with them and was just looking for a more mild drop this time and went with lower springs and stock struts to maintain the stock ride. Now here I am with a much harsher ride than I'd hoped for and people talking about how similar their coilovers that they got for $600(?!?!) are to stock feel. The aggravation I endured installing those goddamn things when I could've just tossed some coilovers in...

I have consistently heard otherwise. In fact, this is the first time I've seen this typed. Far too many times I've read complaints about how sluggish it is and how much money is involved to get any feelable power.

Well shit. I got these purely out of desperation because the swifts are out of production and these lower the car the amount I wanted.

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So, I have installed the Tein springs as well as the OE 2010 (not 2013) struts and I'm really blown away by how much more harsh the ride is. I recall people saying the swift springs were better because of their design, but could they have been that much better? I'm curious what I can do to get the car as close to factory feeling as I can while retaining these springs. I'd only ever had coilovers before (my last car) and assumed the harshness was from the sportier shocks involved but goddamn, was it only because of the height of the car? As it is now, my girlfriend does not like riding in my car and I find it a little nerve wracking dodging every imperfection in the road. I should clarify, it doesn't feel like ive replaced all my bushings with titanium and added 40mm swaybars but there is quite abit more harshness than I was expecting especially since I used the softer struts. What should I tackle next?

I'm on a 1.5" drop on some springs and stock struts. I'm really considering picking up some 25mm's for the rear now. Just curious to see what the GT wheels look like when theyre on the car before I do. I may be satisfied if theyre +7mm over the 3.6's wheels.

I have 20mm all around and always thought that a few more in the rear would look better. I have a 3.6 but just recently bought a set of GT wheels and was waiting to see how it all looked with the 20mm's in the rear but now you've got me thinking otherwise.

It's a shame subaru decided to make the mount for the stock shelf subwoofer the way they did. It effectively eliminates any possibility of using that shelf to mount a bigger sub that can be used in an infinite baffle setup, with all its ridges and uneven areas. If one wants to do a truly space-saving sub install without a box, you basically eliminate the folding down seat feature.

What kind of grille is that?

RESURRECTION!!!! The last few months I've been without the lumbar support because of the weak clips (really made me feel like a fat piece of shit when it happened) and I really came to this thread to see how to go about fixing it and where everything was but upon reading I'm seeing people leaving the clips undone and using the bungees. Do the bungees help support your back at all? Driving without the clips, I feel like I'm driving in a slouched position and get uncomfortable after a period of driving. Are the bungees better or in my case would replacing the clips with a more durable piece be the better option?

Given how often we have to remove our bumpers if you haven't upgraded to lights that last longer than 6 months or have baby arms that can change a bulb through the fender liner, how does one keep the bumper sitting flush and prevent this from happening? I swear I get it lined up with the precision of a swiss watch maker, but after an hour or so of the bumper being back, it typically looks like this...

My previous car was at a point where I'd take anything for it. When I found the dealer that was selling my current car, I brought it in and tossed them the keys and said what can I get for this? They took $1000 off my price and I said deal. They bought a mazdaspeed6 with more rust than fenders and a very stiff and poorly aged coilover suspension. Also had the signature rust hole in the hood, you know, for less wind resistance and to help cool the intercooler. All in all, I think I made out pretty well given they saved me the headache of trying to sell it privately.

Welp, I'm tossing the towel. Got the car all jacked up to do the rear last night and drenched the bolt/nut that needs to come out in pb blaster and still managed to round it off. I'm calling up the place that did my spark plugs and having them install the rears and take care of the rounded nut. Side-note, I'm utterly blown away how integral that washer is that sits between the tophat and the spring perch. Got that piece put in and rotated the perch to sit correctly and voila, all the noises I was hearing just magically vanished. Side-side-note...also really surprised by how much having the stock height rear and the 1.5" lower front effects the headlights. I figured it would but wow.

Literally just did this and came in for a break. To keep the shaft from spinning we took a tshirt and a vice grip and held it in place making sure not to put too much pressure. Just enough to keep it from spinning while we torqued things down.

I wish you would've seen my headlight thread before doing the laminx because the exact same thing happened to me too. Pulled the laminx after botching the install and off came all the hard work I'd done before. I have a buddy who does paint and he said his shop has some spray-on-once-and-your-lights-never-go-cloudy-again kind of stuff. He told me when my lights start to go south again to give him a call and he'll hook me up. Said he can even throw a drop of tint into it as well. He's done it to his lights and they look factory new. I wish this shit was available to the consumer instead of all these goddamn temporary bandaids.

Just ordered a pair. Hope the car doesn't erupt in flames before they arrive.

Hold on, gimme more detail on that because I bet thats it. I was never sure if I positioned those correctly. Those 2 holes have to line up with what other 2 holes? Also, I dont remember any washer associated with that piece. edit: and as i did more reading i found the koni shock/strut install thread and read this: 17. Place the conical washer on top of the upper spring seat, smaller diameter side up. This washer allows the spring seat to interface solely with the inside diameter of the bearing in the strut mount. If you install it upside-down you will essentially be grinding the spring seat/washer/strut mount interface every time you turn. Now I'm curious just how urgent I need to get this straightened out. I have a very short commute to work and really cant get to this until like friday or saturday at the earliest.

Made it back to my old man's house and since we had everything from the night before put together everything went in smoothly this time. Of course, theres a catch though. After buttoning everything back up (mind you its just the front suspension we did) I lowered the car back off the jack and got in to check for noises. Bouncing the suspension stays quiet, but turning the wheel back and forth from a stand still and very low speeds (under 10mph) yields a low creak. I've had my fair share of slammed cars and expected noises but this is a (what should've been) straight-forward lowering spring install and I'm still getting noises. I made sure everything was good and tight when bolting back up, hell I even torqued the nut that shows through to top hat to 40ft/lbs like I saw on youtube. Does anyone have any idea what it could be? Hopefully the link below works so you all can hear it. That was taken with my phone from the drivers seat as it isn't too audible with the engine running from outside. Here is the noise I'm referring to