Outblack

Ahh ya I read that wrong

You’ll end up with 8.7-8.8:1 cr It needs to be tuned, you’ll have a more responsive car off boost but on pump gas you’ll most likely be tuned for less boost

I would highly recommend not having it built on the road, if it were me I’d have it transported home and do the build right

It’s possible a boost line came off or a bad leak....when I first bought my outback it was running great no issue then I boosted it hard uphill on the way home and it started bucking badly and cel started flashing, threw a misfire code. It was a real aw shit moment but it was the seal between the turbo and top mount that was bad. The turbo has threads on it and it’s an aluminum housing so they strip very easily, I was able to turn the bolts by hand. I got it tightened up with longer bolts and nuts on the other side then everything was fine.

Don’t run it if the turbo failed catastrophically there’s a chance of it damaging the motor....check for loose items or heat shields, disconnected wiring harnesses or boost lines. Check your oil level, check your coolant (once it cools), check all your drive pulleys....I’ve heard of a bad idler pulley fail and going into the timing case cover and take out a timing belt before. Hopefully it’s something simple

You can do a ej257 block replacement also but the compression ratio on the ej257 is 8.2:1 The compression ratio on the ej255 is 8.5:1 So if you rebuilt your d25 heads and used an ej257 block it would be wise to budget some money for tuning because pairing them together results in approximately 8.7-8.8:1 CR

You have a 2008 so you have an ej255 with the d25 heads...I have an ej255 longblock sitting in my garage right now with a killer b oil pickup and killer b oil baffle. I had plans for it but they never came through. I think freight to Tennessee from where I am (California) would be around 4-500. Dm me if you’re interested.

That’s a great car for getting around locally I’m sure, but I go northern to Southern California frequently which is around 400 miles each way. I love how utilitarian my wagon is and it’s fun to drive but the 22-25 mpg on the highway SUCKS it gets much worse when hitting a headwind too. Just looking for a car that won’t break the bank that’s reliable yet fun to drive with good fuel efficiency and the fiesta st seemed to check the boxes, it’s tiny but my friend gets around 35-40 mpg on his keeping it under 80 on I-5.

Yes, it’s a ford lol. Never owned one but the fiesta st is a cult classic, internationally. The focus st doesn’t hold a candle to it really, I would never consider owning one. I see the limited production run of the fiesta st making them hold some value. That being said I would never buy it new but I’ve seen some for 10-15k with pretty low miles. The 1.6 ecoboost motor is a really solid motor, but like I said in my original post it is most definitely a fiesta interior.

Idk, I drove one with an upgraded intercooler and tune, it made around 300 wtq and had a nice set of tires it handled really well everything else was oem. I’ve never driven an i3 they’re full electric right?

considering a fiesta st....drove one the other day it was too fun, had the recaro seats, it was definitely a fiesta inside but damn what a fun little go kart. Someone talk me out of it.

Sounds like the previous owner took care of it, like max capacity said keep oil in the vehicle...I check mine every time I fill up, you’ll notice higher oil consumption after hard driving. Just ask what weight oil is in it already, best not to mix. I run Rotella 5w-40 diesel oil in mine and I’d recommend it to anyone, just my .02 As for crank pulley there are a lot of options and you can find them used a lot but you’re going to want to replace it with a one piece sooner than later....they have a picture of a failed crank pulley on here https://www.grimmspeed.com/lightweight-crank-pulley-subaru/ Max capacity, I’m a long time lurker/owned turbo ej’s For about 12 years, I’m no expert but I know a bit about these cars

Motul 300

5 speed manual or automatic? Check the areas where the block mates with the head for residue, potential head gasket issues. If you’re able to pull the plugs check their condition, the front ones are easy for a newb the rears are more challenging, but the fronts will give you an idea of condition. Check the coolant for weird discoloration, smell. Check the axles for tears on the boots. check trans fluid level, condition. Air filter condition. Jack it up grab the wheels firmly check for play and slop, ball joints and wheel bearing can be apparent this way. While it’s jacked up look at tie rods. Look for leaking steering rack, usually wet around the boot. Check power steering pump for leaks, wetness. Check accessory drive belts for cracking, look carefully at crank pulley it’s a two piece design known to delaminate and fail. Check for major rust issues. Anything else is aesthetic, maybe I’m forgetting something but those are major issues that could potentially give you a bad time on your trip, the torn axle boots not so much but if they’re in bad enough condition maybe.

Hey guys anyone have any experience with the Subaru repair kit for the steering rack? I just ordered it from the dealer it’s part #34191AG06A I was doing an oil change today and saw the leak by the boot, no groaning or issues with the pump or rack yet besides the leak. Looked up the diagram on Subaru parts website it looks like a few seals and a gasket. Cost 33 dollars I ordered it already going to tear into it next weekend.

Oil change and cleaned my MAF....P0068 is gone......for now