Libacy GT

I wonder if it could be the glove box dampener spring...

No it's not that because noise was happening even with glove box fully detached from the dampner.

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Youtube as mentioned, or Imgur too I think.

 

 

 

Have you driven the car without the glovebox and panels installed?

So I actually opened it all up again while the sound was happening. It is definitely from the glove box area. I cant really see much going on. But I saw this black thing that said "denso" on it which was just to the right of the air conditioning fan, and I put some pressure on it and the noise stopped lol. BUT I didn't get a chance to confirm because right at that point I had to turn off my car and attend to something, and also as the noise comes and goes it could have been a coincidence.

But I will confirm in a few hours when I can check it out again.

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I have the same sound coming from that area. Also ADM liberty, at first I thought I heard a mouse haha. Not sure what it is.

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Yes that is correct. You can use either (3) bolt but the parts department will tell you the exact one they "confirm" fitment on given your VIN number. One is the standard banjo and one is a banjo with a small restrictor hole. The m10 on top of the turbo also has a restrictor hole so I am not sure if it makes a difference.

I will ring them again and give them my vin this time. They should be able to confirm exactly what part I need. But now I'm curious as to why the big change in banjos. There is a restrictor in the turbo anyway. So maybe there does not need to be a restrictor further up on the feed line

What part did they tell you need for your car? With restrictor or without?

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What are you referring to?

 

The bolt linked is the banjo bolt that goes on top of the turbo for the oil supply line. It has a small hole but does not have a filter.

I'm trying to find the part that goes to the engine which is the one linked. (15194AA420) but I just want to confirm if that's the exact one I need. On the "turbo charger" diagram it shows it as number 3 and as you said before number refers to 2 bolts depending on the year model.

My car build is 10/11

So I think I need Bolt 15194AA420 not Bolt 15194AA270

Is that right?

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Gotcha, good luck!

Do you know how I can upload an audio recording?

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So at least we know it's not the steering column then. [emoji38]

 

 

 

Was your glovebox light working? That plug may be for that.

 

 

 

Those are hefty wires behind the glovebox, they may be rubbing against it causing squeaks?

 

 

 

Nothing looks obviously squeaky there. Maybe you can run the car like that and see if the squeaks are gone. If not, it may be easier to pinpoint with less bits in the way.

Yeh those wires are for the AfR gauge that I just leave inside the glove box. Yeh i will take everything off again and drive and see if i can pin point the sound.

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does the car have a switch to disable/enable the ability to open the trunk? On USDM cars, the switch is on the left side of the glovebox, and has a two pin connector that looks like the one you took a picture of.

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Does it squeak even with the AC off? Maybe the AC blower fan?

 

 

 

EDIT: maybe it's noisy because the steering column is missing?

Has to be some type of pulley around the glove box side. Hmm.

Lol. This is an AUS Liberty GT. Steering on the right [emoji23]

Back to front and front to back. Upside down and downside up. This is Australia.

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1. Does anyone know what this unplugged wire is for? (1st pic,) 2nd pic is showing general location.

Was in the process of checking my air con filter behind the glove box and I noticed that wire unplugged

I do have an afr gauge that works and the wiring goes through the glove box , not sure if its related and they disconnected that plug for some reason.

2. Also recently I've been noticing a squeaking sound coming from the glove box area. It's sounds like a squeaky pulley or something. Not a constant squeak but a squeak every 0.5 seconds or so.

It's random , does not always happen, but more and more frequently. Any ideas?

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They are missing something then:

 

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/49227607/15194AA420.html

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The valvebody mod applies to every 'mode'. However, the valvebody sends different line pressures depending on what mode you drive in. Full auto uses a lower line pressure than sport mode or manual mode. This is why generally full auto mode is smoother.

 

 

 

The delay in the shifts has nothing to do with the valvebody mod. This delay in manual mode is a software delay and there is no tuning around it as we cannot access the TCU to remove that delay. The best bet is to do a TCU reset and then drive the car how you would like the car to drive at all times in manual mode. That way the valvebody will relearn your driving style and shift to match that style when in sport mode.

 

 

 

So for example from the factory the car will try to get in the highest gear possible as quickly as possible. Let's say that at 20% throttle the car shifts from 1st to 4th at 2000rpm for each shift. After the TCU reset put the car in manual mode take a long drive and shift every gear at 3000rpm. You will notice that when in full auto or sport mode the car will try to rev to 3000rpm every time before shifting and will even hold lower gears longer.

 

 

 

Hope this helps

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Image should be here.

 

https://imgur.com/gallery/VM9jpWs

 

These are the part numbers for the two banjo bolts on the turbo diagram.

They are based on build dates.

 

Listed as requiring two of the standard bolt 15194AA270

02/09-04/10 (probably MY09 JDM and AUS)

02/10-04/10 (MY10)

The rest list only needing one indicating that the banjo bolt on the top of the engine was switched out for the newer part 15194AA420. Which is essentially the same bolt but with a tiny hole.

I contacted Partsouq, they never sold the part number 15194AA420, it doesn't even exist in their database.

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I think the image link is failing. https://imgur.com/a/FcZkIJc

 

Working from home today and I just remembered I ordered a bunch of parts for replacing my turbo oil feed lines and coolant lines. Check it out. Looks like some the filter bolt in m10 and the 15194 bolts are m12.

Looks exactly the same in the pic. One is for coolant lines and one is for oil lines.

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Image should be here.

 

https://imgur.com/gallery/VM9jpWs

 

These are the part numbers for the two banjo bolts on the turbo diagram.

They are based on build dates.

 

Listed as requiring two of the standard bolt 15194AA270

02/09-04/10 (probably MY09 JDM and AUS)

02/10-04/10 (MY10)

The rest list only needing one indicating that the banjo bolt on the top of the engine was switched out for the newer part 15194AA420. Which is essentially the same bolt but with a tiny hole.

and turbo oil feed is the only m10 x 1.5 banjo Bolt. All the rest on engine avcs , water in & return e.t.c are m12 x 1.25

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Does the valve body mod apply to the manual mode or just full auto. I like having more control over the car in manual mode but I wanna be sure there won’t be that huge delay in response between shifting up and the actual shift. That’s the main reason I want this. I hate that it takes so long to manually shift

 

 

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Has anyone determined the wear effects of a valve body modification? If the valve body is shifting harder and faster wouldn’t it in turn wear the transmission faster?

 

 

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I recall reading that creating firmer shifts is actually healthier for the transmission somehow.

Would be good to know how people are fairing with their upgrades after long use. One thing I've found on forums is that we rarely get to find out about how certain upgrades are going after a year or a few years.

when we read a thread, we hear all these feel good positive feedback and then when we try to follow up and contact these individuals in pm and ask them how did so and so upgrade go, either they are no longer active on forum or the transmission blew even after a full rebuild. Lol

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Did not find it yet. Bust weekend. I'll check tonight.

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I'll try to find the invoice. That will be easiest.

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Apparently there were reports of many people breaking the needle/roller bearings which then caused the planetary gears, output/intermediate shaft and pins in the centre diff to break

Yes its true the needle bearings are weaker because of their inherent design but for stock applications they serve a good purpose and much better then other bearing solutions because of better oil distribution and load distribution.

People have not broken the actual brass bushings from what I know but they have still broken the centre diff components even after the brass bushing install. What I don't understand is because the brass bushing clearance is so tight or practically 0, what will happen when due to temperature fluctuations it seizes in the planetary/pinion gear, or it seizes on the pin that goes inside it?

I have a set of the brass bushes that I have not installed yet and a spare planatery/pinion gear and the bushes will definitely not fit in the planetary/pinion freely by hand, Its just too tight. I recall reading that you must freeze the bushings and then heat the gears or something and then can get them to fit, or you can hammer them in, but stock ones slide right in and out by hand.

Anyway my subi transmission builder refuses to install them if I want him to build my 5EAT lol.

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Yeh. So the only banjo bolts with the filter inside is part number : 14445AA90 there are 2 , one located on each side of the engine I'm assuming to the avcs.

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You can't trust their names because they have no standard.

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Yeah that number 3 has two part numbers. A and B one with the filter and one without.

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=Subaru&ssd=%24%2AKwHY7P3-kMaEiaTahYv39ICUtLOt3NPe383bxqrbrpOfq5fM1Z-byNvY3cjHzp6Rh4Pa2s6QlJ2slZHUg9DJpqvbqb7X-OuSqKzc393S39uRkYOPydbb29LAzMqfm8ipzpAAAAAAZ5EX4Q%24&vid=0&cid=252&uid=7568&q=JF1BR9KV3BG027935

Part number A for the return line (because it states it specifically) and part number b I'm assuming has to be for the feed line which also states it in the code number section, But either way none of those banjos have filters.

If it has filter like part number 14445AA90 they will call it "union screw and filter assembly"

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So each AVCS line has a banjo bolt with a filter and one without. The turbo feed line off the engine has a banjo bolt with filter. If anyone of those gets plugged it's going to cause problems eventually but debris in certain parts will cause problems too. I agree with changing those bolts out but they are pretty difficult to get to even though they appear to be right on top.

 

Check this diagram to see where the avcs oil feed lines are. Keep in mind this are buried in, around, and under your fuel rails, tgvs, and intake manifold.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2010_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54102_6023313/CYLINDER-HEAD-SYSTEM-10MY-12MY/B14-006-03.html

this part here below that you linked which is the top half of the turbo oil feed line does not have a filter in the banjo at the top according to the parts diagram.

Part number for that banjo is 15194AA420 bolt number 3 on the diagram.

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Sub...E-OIL/49227589/15192AA610.html

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Can you please list all the replacement parts that you ordered?

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