Libacy GT
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Posts posted by Libacy GT
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Oh nice. Thanks for that. Now I just need to know if there is a big difference between the usdm and Australian Liberty/legacy pumps. Rarely I see part numbers different between our cars.Sunsong indicates they offer a seal kit for the 2010-2012 USDM Legacy (it's their part number 8401607) - Rockauto lists it for $18.25Legacy complete pump part numbers shows as either :
34430AJ021
34430AJ020
34430AJ030
34430AJ031
AUS Liberty complete pump shows part numbers as:
34430AJ011
34430AJ010
Maybe it's just a matter of bracket or fitment cause right hand and left hand drive cars. The internal parts has to be the same. I cant see any reason for them using different internals.
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It's crazy that their isn't a repair kit.
Brand new one cost is through the roof. even if I get one from the wreckers it's not cheap.
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TrueIt might not have enough oompf to it. The Legacy has bigger wheels and is heavier. It'll need more power to turn the wheels especially at slow speeds/stopped. If you use it you might find it goes out quickly.Sent from my HTC_M10h using Tapatalk
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You think if I just use the 06 impreza pump I have. Will be any problems.?
It will fit. But the question is will I have issues. Hmm
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I can see it pool up slowly towards the back of the pump.Where is it leaking from, the seals on the ps pump? I did a ps leak fix once and replaced the seals and noticed that air got into the system after replacing the seals. I would notice that the ps fluid would bubble up with the car running in the resevoir when i started the car to bleed the fluid when turning the wheel lock to lock. Turns out that the ps hose lines needed replacing as well because over time the hose hardens and develops cracks in them that cause leaks and improper seal at the hose clamp ends.I wasnt able to stop air from getting into the system until i replaced the hoses as well. I opted to not buy the oem hose since it has the preformed bends due to being expensive, and bought oil hoses from my local auto store and cut them to length.
Just an fyi if you encounter this problem,,
Hoses looks great. Not hard. Seemed fine.
What seals did you use for the pump?
There are no direct aftermarket kits for it
The main problem is that thicker shaft seal. Not sure what it's called
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Hi.
Does anyone know if their are aftermarket repair kits for the power steering pumps?
I have the Australian Liberty GT.
I've noticed the US power steering pump part number is different to the Australian part number.
Anyone know anything about this?
I have a power steering pump leak and want to repair with new seals.
I have a spare wrx power steering pump that looks the same but not sure if will have any problems with install.
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That's very surprising. Good to know the stock transmission is capable of big power.When I owned it I wasn't exactly gentle. A lots of miles were spent on mountain roads chasing fahr_side's built WRX.Though the car was never tracked, I burned through about 60l of meth, two sets of RE-11As, two sets of brake rotors, 4 sets of Project Mu high-temp pads and ripped 3 sets of strengthened front lower control arm bushings. Launching uphill WOT with 4 passengers and a load of camping or windsurfing gear was a regular occurrence. A lot of people broke their tranny's due to the slow and soft OEM shift settings. I bought a broken one and re-built it as a spare, but never needed it. I later sold it to someone who DID break their transmission.
My STG2 STi just can't compare, nice as it is.
I wonder if it's mainly to do with the turbo and torque not being too aggressive down low rpm range because like I mentioned the main issue of these 5EAT under these big power builds was the torque being too much for centre diff and parts always breaking.
I'm sure the wagon was not entirely a monster at low rpm was it?
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You have a build thread?Yeah got the same car.Sadly not as many mods on mine, only injectors/fuel (run E85) pump, Sti exhaust cams and Tgv deletes basically.
But I will be test fitting an MGT2259s which appears to be somewhere between a GT25 and GT28 size plus the rest of a 2015 WRX headers and exhaust.
Along with that, going big FMIC.
Not many of us around with the 5th GEN 5EAT
I have built engine, about to install the hybrid VF54 that Les supplied me and crank it up. Hopefully my transmission behaves itself.
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Adjusting those parameters may help with the slipping but the centre diff has always been the issue with the 4th/5th GEN 5EAT as the 5th GEN has almost all of the same internal components except the valve body.Worth noting that was a stock transmission however the tune featured adjustments to the Requested Torque values and calculated torque also. I have a feeling this made a difference in the ability for the 5eat to hold up without slipping.Not sure if all tuners would be aware of these or bother with them.
Really good to know it will hold 400hp as that's all I'd ever want for mine.
To touch on an older Post in the thread about going manual:
It is possible to flash a manual rom onto the ECU, as I have confirmed on my car. However I do not know how the BIU/cluster would play a part.
Also not sure if flashing a manual rom would let the TCU know it should no longer perform its role haha. Even if you go and disable a bunch of error codes via romraider.
I'd only consider it if I found a complete wrecked manual gen V to use as a donor. And then could upgrade to the Sti 6 speed at a later stage.
Even still, like I mentioned, 400hp is enough.
People have smashed the intermediate shaft, planetary gears, pinion shaft, and needle bearings on Far less power , I know someone who had a fully built 4th GEN 5EAT (Clutches, frictions, steels, Shotpeen , cyro treatment , valve body mod, brass bushing upgrade) and smashed center diff 2 times at only 330hp!
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Do you have a 5th GEN 5EAT as well?Worth noting that was a stock transmission however the tune featured adjustments to the Requested Torque values and calculated torque also. I have a feeling this made a difference in the ability for the 5eat to hold up without slipping.Not sure if all tuners would be aware of these or bother with them.
Really good to know it will hold 400hp as that's all I'd ever want for mine.
To touch on an older Post in the thread about going manual:
It is possible to flash a manual rom onto the ECU, as I have confirmed on my car. However I do not know how the BIU/cluster would play a part.
Also not sure if flashing a manual rom would let the TCU know it should no longer perform its role haha. Even if you go and disable a bunch of error codes via romraider.
I'd only consider it if I found a complete wrecked manual gen V to use as a donor. And then could upgrade to the Sti 6 speed at a later stage.
Even still, like I mentioned, 400hp is enough.
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Not even upgraded clutches and steels?Yes and yes!I wonder how the new owner drives. I'm an aggressive driver, don't think it would have lasted this long with me lol
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Wow, this is impressive on stock transmission.
I have the same car AUS gen 5 , 5EAT and I am always worried about the transmission due to so many people breaking the centre diffs in the 4th GEN 5EATs
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Nice.In case anyone is wondering the car is still going strong and people are still asking how we pulled this off.Stock transmission was it?
What power was it at, 400hp?
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Nice one. Enjoy!As of last Friday I am a proud owner of a transgo modded valve body. Very impressed and happy with my purchase! Well worth the $230, feels nice and smooth when cruising around town but when you lay it down it grabs much much quicker. I think TCU is still learning as the shifts seem to be getting more reliably quick under open throttle, but overall I'm very happy and it wasn't as hard as it looked to install. No idea what my power numbers are but I have the Evo 3 16g with up pipe, downpipe, process west tmic clone, and a tune. I didn't have any slipping problems before and the tranny was quite clean inside for it's age (180k miles). Definitely getting a cooler now though as I replaced all my fluid 20k ago and it was already getting quite brown!Sent from my HTC_M10h using Tapatalk
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Flex fuel for the gen 5 ?Dont see why pay top dollar for a name brand.I have a flexfuel kit from a different company and been problem free since install! Not to mention paying atleast 50% less.
After seeing this post, kinda glad I didn’t went Cobb
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Send link here or pm me if its not appropriate to link in this thread.
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I didn't even know there was a flex fuel option for our cars. I've been running on straight e85 for 1.5 years.
Will be watching this thread closely for updates on when they get it right.
Any tuner can work with this kit right?
I currently have a custom tune from someone.
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Yep you may be right. I'll take a proper look and check it out when I canI looked at the AC system diagram while looking at parts for my car.I'm assuming the Denso box you pushed on is 72343 on the diagram. It looks like it's screwed on to the blower housing. Maybe it's just loose and you can try re-tightening?
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Noise is back. Not as loud and not as often as before, it has to be something to do with that black denso box next to the air con filter box
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Hole down the bolt looked to be about the same big tube as the standard. The one with the small hole was machined witch much more precision.
If you don't mind can you please measure the diameter of the hole through the middle of the m10 Bolt (15194AA110)? And also through the middle of the m12 Bolt (15194AA420)
Thanks for your help.
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Is the hole running through the middle of the Bolt the same diameter as the hole on the side?The m10 bolt was about .058Reason I'm asking is because for my new turbo I need at least a 0.078 size restrictor and I need to know if i have to drill both holes
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Was all dark inside Couldnt make anything out other then some black unit on the right of the blower fan (white box that air con filter sits in)Denso thingy right on the AC evaporator housing? I would guess its the blower motor fan speed resistor. But it doesnt have anything that squeaks. Maybe it was loose?Applied pressure on it and squeak stopped.
Next is to diagnose rear knock when I'm turning either left it right on some bumps.
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Well. I cant explain it but the noise is gone.
All I did was push that black thing next to the air condition filter box and noise seems to be gone. Don't know how or why.
I'll find out what that part actually is.
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Lol.
So I'm assuming that's the 15194AA420 part thats at the engine side of the turbo feed line?
Is it the same restrictor hole as the 15194AA110 banjo that connects directly to Turbo?
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Yeh these subies have all sorts of cabin noises. Especially as I have hardened engine mounts and built engine. It really exagerates the sounds.Ya it was just a thought. When I had a noise that sounded like it was coming from the glovebox after I changed the cabin air filter, it turned out to be the sunglasses holder lmaoSent from my HTC_M10h using Tapatalk
Jackal's 20g to 18g e85 Soap Opera
in Fifth Generation Legacy (2010 - 2014 )
Posted
Found his facebook link
https://www.facebook.com/IQ.Performance.Moscow/?ref=py_c