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Libacy GT

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Posts posted by Libacy GT

  1. Sunsong indicates they offer a seal kit for the 2010-2012 USDM Legacy (it's their part number 8401607) - Rockauto lists it for $18.25
    Oh nice. Thanks for that. Now I just need to know if there is a big difference between the usdm and Australian Liberty/legacy pumps. Rarely I see part numbers different between our cars.

     

    Legacy complete pump part numbers shows as either :

    34430AJ021

    34430AJ020

    34430AJ030

    34430AJ031

     

    AUS Liberty complete pump shows part numbers as:

    34430AJ011

    34430AJ010

     

    Maybe it's just a matter of bracket or fitment cause right hand and left hand drive cars. The internal parts has to be the same. I cant see any reason for them using different internals.

     

     

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  2. Where is it leaking from, the seals on the ps pump? I did a ps leak fix once and replaced the seals and noticed that air got into the system after replacing the seals. I would notice that the ps fluid would bubble up with the car running in the resevoir when i started the car to bleed the fluid when turning the wheel lock to lock. Turns out that the ps hose lines needed replacing as well because over time the hose hardens and develops cracks in them that cause leaks and improper seal at the hose clamp ends.

     

     

     

    I wasnt able to stop air from getting into the system until i replaced the hoses as well. I opted to not buy the oem hose since it has the preformed bends due to being expensive, and bought oil hoses from my local auto store and cut them to length.

     

     

     

    Just an fyi if you encounter this problem,,

    I can see it pool up slowly towards the back of the pump.

    Hoses looks great. Not hard. Seemed fine.

     

    What seals did you use for the pump?

    There are no direct aftermarket kits for it

    The main problem is that thicker shaft seal. Not sure what it's called

     

    Sent from my HTC_M10h using Tapatalk

  3. Hi.

    Does anyone know if their are aftermarket repair kits for the power steering pumps?

     

    I have the Australian Liberty GT.

    I've noticed the US power steering pump part number is different to the Australian part number.

     

    Anyone know anything about this?

    I have a power steering pump leak and want to repair with new seals.

    I have a spare wrx power steering pump that looks the same but not sure if will have any problems with install.

     

    Sent from my HTC_M10h using Tapatalk

  4. When I owned it I wasn't exactly gentle. A lots of miles were spent on mountain roads chasing fahr_side's built WRX.

     

    Though the car was never tracked, I burned through about 60l of meth, two sets of RE-11As, two sets of brake rotors, 4 sets of Project Mu high-temp pads and ripped 3 sets of strengthened front lower control arm bushings. Launching uphill WOT with 4 passengers and a load of camping or windsurfing gear was a regular occurrence. A lot of people broke their tranny's due to the slow and soft OEM shift settings. I bought a broken one and re-built it as a spare, but never needed it. I later sold it to someone who DID break their transmission.

     

    My STG2 STi just can't compare, nice as it is.

    That's very surprising. Good to know the stock transmission is capable of big power.

    I wonder if it's mainly to do with the turbo and torque not being too aggressive down low rpm range because like I mentioned the main issue of these 5EAT under these big power builds was the torque being too much for centre diff and parts always breaking.

     

    I'm sure the wagon was not entirely a monster at low rpm was it?

     

    Sent from my HTC_M10h using Tapatalk

  5. Yeah got the same car.

     

    Sadly not as many mods on mine, only injectors/fuel (run E85) pump, Sti exhaust cams and Tgv deletes basically.

     

    But I will be test fitting an MGT2259s which appears to be somewhere between a GT25 and GT28 size plus the rest of a 2015 WRX headers and exhaust.

     

    attachment.php?attachmentid=134070&stc=1&d=1458890601

     

    Along with that, going big FMIC.

    You have a build thread?

    Not many of us around with the 5th GEN 5EAT

     

    I have built engine, about to install the hybrid VF54 that Les supplied me and crank it up. Hopefully my transmission behaves itself.

     

    Sent from my HTC_M10h using Tapatalk

  6. Worth noting that was a stock transmission however the tune featured adjustments to the Requested Torque values and calculated torque also. I have a feeling this made a difference in the ability for the 5eat to hold up without slipping.

     

    Not sure if all tuners would be aware of these or bother with them.

     

    Really good to know it will hold 400hp as that's all I'd ever want for mine.

     

    To touch on an older Post in the thread about going manual:

     

     

    It is possible to flash a manual rom onto the ECU, as I have confirmed on my car. However I do not know how the BIU/cluster would play a part.

     

    Also not sure if flashing a manual rom would let the TCU know it should no longer perform its role haha. Even if you go and disable a bunch of error codes via romraider.

     

    I'd only consider it if I found a complete wrecked manual gen V to use as a donor. And then could upgrade to the Sti 6 speed at a later stage.

     

    Even still, like I mentioned, 400hp is enough.

    Adjusting those parameters may help with the slipping but the centre diff has always been the issue with the 4th/5th GEN 5EAT as the 5th GEN has almost all of the same internal components except the valve body.

     

    People have smashed the intermediate shaft, planetary gears, pinion shaft, and needle bearings on Far less power , I know someone who had a fully built 4th GEN 5EAT (Clutches, frictions, steels, Shotpeen , cyro treatment , valve body mod, brass bushing upgrade) and smashed center diff 2 times at only 330hp!

     

     

    Sent from my HTC_M10h using Tapatalk

  7. Worth noting that was a stock transmission however the tune featured adjustments to the Requested Torque values and calculated torque also. I have a feeling this made a difference in the ability for the 5eat to hold up without slipping.

     

    Not sure if all tuners would be aware of these or bother with them.

     

    Really good to know it will hold 400hp as that's all I'd ever want for mine.

     

    To touch on an older Post in the thread about going manual:

     

     

    It is possible to flash a manual rom onto the ECU, as I have confirmed on my car. However I do not know how the BIU/cluster would play a part.

     

    Also not sure if flashing a manual rom would let the TCU know it should no longer perform its role haha. Even if you go and disable a bunch of error codes via romraider.

     

    I'd only consider it if I found a complete wrecked manual gen V to use as a donor. And then could upgrade to the Sti 6 speed at a later stage.

     

    Even still, like I mentioned, 400hp is enough.

    Do you have a 5th GEN 5EAT as well?

     

    Sent from my HTC_M10h using Tapatalk

  8. As of last Friday I am a proud owner of a transgo modded valve body. Very impressed and happy with my purchase! Well worth the $230, feels nice and smooth when cruising around town but when you lay it down it grabs much much quicker. I think TCU is still learning as the shifts seem to be getting more reliably quick under open throttle, but overall I'm very happy and it wasn't as hard as it looked to install. No idea what my power numbers are but I have the Evo 3 16g with up pipe, downpipe, process west tmic clone, and a tune. I didn't have any slipping problems before and the tranny was quite clean inside for it's age (180k miles). Definitely getting a cooler now though as I replaced all my fluid 20k ago and it was already getting quite brown!
    Nice one. Enjoy!

     

    Sent from my HTC_M10h using Tapatalk

  9. Dont see why pay top dollar for a name brand.

     

    I have a flexfuel kit from a different company and been problem free since install! Not to mention paying atleast 50% less.

     

    After seeing this post, kinda glad I didn’t went Cobb

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Flex fuel for the gen 5 ?

    Send link here or pm me if its not appropriate to link in this thread.

     

    Sent from my HTC_M10h using Tapatalk

  10. I looked at the AC system diagram while looking at parts for my car.

     

    I'm assuming the Denso box you pushed on is 72343 on the diagram. It looks like it's screwed on to the blower housing. Maybe it's just loose and you can try re-tightening?

     

    https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2010_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Premium-Sedan/_54104_6025950/HEATER-SYSTEM-BLOWER/B14-720-05.html

    Yep you may be right. I'll take a proper look and check it out when I can

     

    Sent from my HTC_M10h using Tapatalk

  11. Hole down the bolt looked to be about the same big tube as the standard. The one with the small hole was machined witch much more precision.

     

    If you don't mind can you please measure the diameter of the hole through the middle of the m10 Bolt (15194AA110)? And also through the middle of the m12 Bolt (15194AA420)

     

     

    Thanks for your help.

     

    Sent from my HTC_M10h using Tapatalk

  12. Denso thingy right on the AC evaporator housing? I would guess its the blower motor fan speed resistor. But it doesnt have anything that squeaks. Maybe it was loose?
    Was all dark inside Couldnt make anything out other then some black unit on the right of the blower fan (white box that air con filter sits in)

    Applied pressure on it and squeak stopped.

     

    Next is to diagnose rear knock when I'm turning either left it right on some bumps.

     

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