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Another update: Got the intercooler fitted. Tired eyes and hands make fitting it a pain. Going for a dyno tune next week. Put in a VF52 with a few nice upgrades (wastegate actuator, flap, billet wheel, porting), DW65c, IAG AOS (I discovered through the install of this that my PCV was finished), turbo blanket and cylinder 4 cooling mod. Acquired a JDM specB Rev D to F nose cut for the spring as well.

For what it's worth, I'm on windshield number 3 on my 2007 specB. First one was the one that came from the factory, second one was an OEM one ($$$) and the third is an aftermarket Fuyao. My dad has a 2019 Forester Premier (top trim in Canadia), he got a chip right below the rear view mirror, I'd say, 6 months after he got the car. I'm curious to see what will happen in Canada.

I swapped out the OEM fuel pump to a DW65c, routed out my new IAG AOS but am having fitment problems with the Grimmspeed intercooler. Has anybody had any issues or advice? I'm having a hard time getting the couplers on and lining the thing up on the mounts.

Are those bolt on?

Xforce makes the Varex line of products, they're most well known for that. I have two of 'em on my car.

Since I've been working from home, the car's been sitting and I've been working on some upgrades: VF52 Turbo, rebuilt by TPC. Has upgraded compressor wheel and wastegate actuator. Got that puppy in. Grimmspeed intercooler will be in. I'm having problems fitting the IC to throttle body coupler hose. It doesn't seem to want to go over the throttle body entry point. I can get it 3/4s of the way through but one side always pops out Cobb EBCS is installed Replaced the pitch stop which was a little worn with a Group N one IAG AOS is going in this weekend Brembo front left caliper has been fixed and resolved. If I knew in advance, I would have gotten one of those remanufactured calipers from Rockauto. Would have saved a lot of money and just powdercoated it. Trusted mechanic had to fill out the thread and tap new aluminum. Doesn't look pretty but not seen. Replaced the front lower control arm bushings to Whitelines. They were overdue, car noticeably wanders less, if at all. In the works, I have the S402 fenders that are going to go on the car in the spring. Going to do the JDM specB facelift swap. I have the heated folding mirrors too, not sure if I broke the mechanism trying to take out the glass though. Car will need a repaint and I'm going to do it in the spring with all the JDM goodies so I'm debating if I should have sprayed in DGM as is factory or go with another color. As always, opinions and comments are welcome!

They say a picture is worth a thousand words.

Hi there. I have no problem getting it back into place but after a while, it seems like the top corner just casually pops out.

Acquired some S402 fenders, going to do the JDM facelift during spring time.

Casual bump. Has anybody figured out a way to keep the side trim pieces from not popping out? Mine do from time to time. Thanks in advance!

Alrighty, so here's my post about the interior swap: The parts all came off a European car in Romania. First thing I did was remove all the parts from the inside. Some had to go back on, which I will detail in a bit. Once all that stuff is removed, the bracket that holds the console and parking brake cables was switched over. The center console bolts to the car from the sides, instead of just straight down through the center console cubby. There are two little caps that cover the screws. I then went right to left. I received a glovebox backing (the inner black plastic bit where the manual would be held in the glovebox, and where the glovebox itself attaches to) and tried to put it on. It would not fit, the European Legacy does not have these two mount points that are welded to the crossmember that runs behind the dash. So, I kept the original piece in because it mounted fine. This, however, proved a bit problematic. Since I have a 2007, I don't have any of the facelifted interior trim with the silver bits so I wanted to use the glovebox that came with the European bits. Unfortunately the mounting is entirely different. As the car sits right now, there is no glovebox because I had to source one from eBay. In the images I posted, the original USDM one is on the left and does not have those snap-in clips. From the front though, the USDM ones are identical minus the handle which has a lock, which I'll have to transplant from my original one to the newer one. The European one has some felt inner lining and no weights added, the USDM one certainly "feels heftier". Center plastics and the console all pretty much just bolt up, no issues there. Bolt in the console, attach the cigarette lighter/ashtray assembly. Place the shift boot then the parking brake boot. Done. The right silver plastic trim pops out a little, I would like to figure out how to resolve that. It for sure has to do with the double DIN kit. At one point as well, I'd like to see if it's possible to boost the brightness of the air conditioning display. I'll have to tinker with that at some point... Onto the driver's side. Once I transplanted the switches into the new piece, I then attempted to mount it. The USDM cars as well have a big metal plate behind the trim piece, held in by two 12mm bolts/philips #2 screws. I had to remove this plate to mount the trim. I suspect as well, the regular USDM facelifted trim has this piece as well. Lastly, reuse the piece with the OBD2 port under the steering column. Voila, done. For the people wanting to do this, the facelifted USDM interiors have less stuff to remove for sure. I may wrap the silver pieces because they're a little discolored and I have the shifter ring and cupholders in the darker gun metal metallic that came on the tbSTI and S402 trims, so I'd like to match those. I got a new shift boot, parking brake boot and armrest lid cover from Redline Goods. I accidentally touched them with a bit of glue on my fingers when sticking them on the plastic pieces so there's some shiny bits. I'll likely go and replace those in time and be a little more cautious when doing so. For facelifted interiors, all you need is just the center console, parking brake boot, shift boot, ashtray/cigarette piece below the AC, the silver side pieces and the black plastic side pieces. For non-facelifted interiors, you'll need a USDM facelift glovebox and either the USDM driver's side trim or the Euro one and remove the metal plate as well. In regards to the cupholder lighting, if you get a JDM SI-Drive switch off of JapanParts, there is an extra connector for one of the LEDs in the cupholders (there's two, one on each side). I snipped it off and put a Molex Mini Fit Jr. connector and then hardwired the two cupholder LEDs to a mating connector. The lights are dimmed with the dimmer switch because the extra connector is tapped to the SI-Drive switch backlighting from the factory and provided a nice clean way to power the lights. Originally, I was going to run a tap but not needed. Shout out to tysparks81 for hearing me out when I had a few doubts and being patient. Hope this helps for anybody looking to do the swap.

Though not today, but earlier this week: Euro console. I'll be adding to my thread soon enough about my experiences doing the swap.

Hey there. The remote starter itself is a Compustar unit and the RF portion is called MyStartPlus. In Quebec and Ontario (Canada), there's a wireless network setup so I can either remote start from my phone (no use of LTE in the car) or the OEM fob. Cost about $450 CAD. Regarding the powdercoat, I had only materials cost. I'd figure the cost would also be dependent on if you pre-disassembled and sandblasted them.

Thanks again for the advice! So, I've acquired all the pieces for a Euro/JDM interior swap. Going to through with it soon. The teal backlit cupholders are a nice touch but I prefer to keep things uniform with the backlight, so I swapped out the LEDs. That was an interesting time figuring out the wiring: I got the parts from Europe and then went and got the cupholder/wiring harness from Buyee and Japan. I wanted to keep things as original as possible but the harness had only one connector. After much looking, I found the connector, being a Yazaki 7183-8049. The unfortunate thing is that the connector is very likely end of life and nobody supplies it. Hell, I couldn't even find a knock off from AliExpress/Alibaba. The other issue was that the mating connector on the LEDs is actually built into the housing. This required some drilling for the wires to pass through since only the tabs have holes to poke through. A little sloppy machining and all is well. I'm hoping to do the interior swap this week. I got matching Redline Goods parking brake boots, shift boots and armrest covers in black leather with blue stitching to match the seats and door cards.

Swapped out the LEDs on the JDM backlit cupholders. I want to keep it more uniform for my forthcoming swap.

I hear you, I'm in Canada so yeah, winter's surely coming. It was one of the two M12x1.5 bolts that attaches the caliper to the hub. You think the hub itself is done?

Following up with my Brembo bonanza, I found my issue. Friend and I took off the front left wheel, bolt to the hub was in on angle and crossthreaded. The caliper was pretty much moving while driving and especially when turning right. Going to call the shop and ask them to helicoil it and put in a new bolt. We ugga-dugga'd (think caveman) the bolt in enough so it won't rattle as much. Apparently they did retap the inner bleeder on the front left caliper, so the rear left just does not have an outer bleeder.

I found my issue. Friend and I took off the front left wheel, bolt to the hub was in on angle and crossthreaded. The caliper was pretty much moving while driving and especially when turning right. Going to call the shop and ask them to helicoil it and put in a new bolt. We ugga-dugga'd (think caveman) the bolt in enough so it won't rattle as much.

Unfortunately, the person who powdercoated them welded over them so they've been blocked off. The Powerstop rebuilds is good for the front, any idea about the rear?

I appreciate that (seriously). Since I've put them on, I've had my doubts and have been internally debating buying a new set from Mach V/FastWRX. I think this is pushing me more towards doing that.

Max Capacity to the rescue! I'll take a look later tonight and report back. I have some Permatex silicone ceramic brake grease that I used when reassembling, would that suffice? And by the tabs, you mean the ones that have the pins going through? And if so, should I be grinding the inner or outer portion?

So I got the Brembo swap done. Went with the Kartboy brackets and the parking brake shoes. I preferred the idea of being able to just use 2004 STI parts if/when the brakes need a service and not have to worry about hunting down specialized rotors. Also tossed in a master cylinder brace. This was particularly annoying but not for reasons that were foreseeable. The guy who powdercoated my calipers blocked off one bleeder on two calipers because apparently they would not come out. I tried as well with no luck. So we had issues bleeding the brakes. Then on top of that, the flange nuts for the brake lines would not budge since I wanted to do stainless steel lines. Wound up bringing the car to somebody I know who is a former Subaru dealer tech and opened up a drift car shop to finish it up. Apparently, one of the rear calipers did not have enough surface area for the crush washers to sit so he had to machine it. Torched to get the flange nuts off. Car runs but I do get speed dependent metal on metal noises, that go away when the brakes are pressed. Any thoughts? I followed Hawk's break in procedure for the pads so I'm thinking either one of the calipers is sticking or some material needs to be shaved off of the pad?

I just did my Brembo swap. I'm noticing though that I get speed dependent noises on one caliper. Not sure if the caliper is sticking. I rebuilt them so I don't know what's going on. The sound goes away when the brakes are pressed. I followed Hawk's procedure to bed the pads. The guy who refinished them blocked off a bleeder on two of the calipers because they would not come out. What's the general thought on this?

The Retroquik works nicely, my only complaint is just that the wiring inside of the headlight needs instructions but after a little bit of thinking, it was resolved. Just make sure you get all the extra harnesses, they do come in handy. All you need is a heat gun (prefer this over an oven, especially if you're using a third party light like TYC where the plastic melts, ask me how I know...), drill with stepper bit and a Philips screwdriver. For the longevity of your HIDs if you have a pre-facelift car, you should disable DRLs and if you want, wire in other lights somehow. That's why I put in those LED strips. Facelift headlights use the high beams for DRLs so it's not a big issue but the pre-facelift cars use the low-beams at a reduced voltage so the ballasts will not work properly. I actually killed a cheaper Hylux ballast because of that. It would flicker at times then eventually stopped working and became a paperweight.

Hey everybody, looooong time bump. A lot has happened since: I acquired a set of '04 to '07 STI Brembos. Powdercoated them Prismatic Powders' Illusion Lime Time. Rebuilt them: new pistons, Brembo seals, Centric rotors, HPS pads and Goodridge stainless lines. I plan on putting them on next week. For those curious, I went with Kartboy adapters, KNS parking brake shoes and AC Delco parking brake hardware. Acquired a VF52, was told it didn't have shaft play... It did. I had it rebuilt somewhat locally (I know JmP does good work). Went and got a little carried away with upgrading it: billet compressor wheel, new and clipped turbine shaft, ported wastegate + flapper upgrade and lastly, upgraded wastegate actuator. Will be putting it on in a few weeks along with a Grimmspeed intercooler, DW65c fuel pump, IAG Street AOS and a Cobb EBCS. After much debilitation, I decided to weld in a cat into my Invidia downpipe. I went with a GESi G-Sport as it seemed promising. I was tired of being anxious and there's more of a crackdown here. Did a retune with Dave @ Cryotune. Following the cat welding, I went one step further. I was running a Q300, sold it and had a full custom catback made with two Varex mufflers thanks to the help of the fine gents at MAKE//Automotive. I wasn't too happy with the Varex controller so I designed my own. I 3d-printed a switch holder to go in the place of the AUX jack. Power is tapped from the cigarette lighter that was there and is now replaced by the USB plug. Finished it off with some 3.5 inch tips that are 5 degree slant cut. Did an HID retrofit, using the Morimoto H1 Retroquik kit. Put in 4500K bulbs, Pivot accent switchback LEDs for DRLs. Blacked out the headlights and the grille too. I got a few more things being worked on, and lastly: thanks to tysparks81 and Dave @ Cryotune for putting up with my constant questions.