finsta

That sucks, but I appreciate the fast reply. Looks like another addition to the parts order list.

Got a question lockout question for 6 speed owners: I have a Cobb short shifter, ran it down super low and as you can imagine, the reverse lockout cable got chafed on the driveshaft. Ziptied and increased the height. Now, as time went on, I went back to stock height. Cobb lists the short shifter of having +- 1 inch of wiggle room so I just bottomed it out and went up 1 inch. My lockout would not fully retract down the shaft once out of reverse. It was vibrating brutally so I swapped it out for a Billetworkz one, no rattle. Greased it a fair amount with white lithium grease when installing it, hoping it would fix the issue. Nada. It doesn't fully reset downward so there are times you can go all the way over towards reverse. Wondering if anybody has encountered this or has suggestions?

Ran this setup in Kebek winters for years. It's a good one. I'm using Hakka R3s for the first time because my garage doesn't allow studded tires.

My ears were burning. If you say my name 5 times in front of a mirror, I'll appear.

Alrighty, so here's the long-awaited post about the AC/Double DIN Controls for LHD cars. Unfortunately, I lost all the photos I took so I wrote this to the best of my ability. What you will need Double DIN Faceplate from eBay i88 and associated wire harnesses, available from svxDC, Tight Fit Fabrication or Auto Harness House Metra 40-SB-10-18 Antenna Adapter Subaru Euro Radio P/N: 86201AG460 Factory Radio Superglue X-Acto Knife or thin blade A bit of patience 20-40 minutes of time [*] Getting Started To get started, make sure you have all the necessary parts readily available. Remove the factory stereo from your car as well. You may remove the hazard lights button from the factory radio, as you will be attaching it to the eBay faceplate just before installing. Keep track of screws and where they came from, you will be reusing many of them! [*] Gutting the Euro Radio At this point, we can start gutting the radio. Start by removing the back circuit board of the climate control board. It is held in by a few screws. When the screws are removed, you will be left with a circuit board that has a black plastic back and a connector on the front and back. Set this aside for now, we will come back to it after. Now, we must remove the actual climate control front-facing circuit board. There is a thin ribbon cable that attaches the radio to the climate controls. Just disconnect it. I don't know what the cable does but it seemingly has worked fine for months without it connected. Once the circuit board is removed, we can take out the button caps, grey rubber button membrane and trim rings. Transplant these onto the new faceplate. Finally, we're at the part where patience is required. We need to get the VFD filter. To get good access to it, we need to remove the whole faceplate of the Euro radio. Unscrew everything and remove the faceplate. There will be a lot of screws that are going to not have any purpose going forward, set them aside so your dogs/cats/small children don't eat them. The filter is held in by clips and adhesive. To remove it, you have to release the clips and press the filter out towards the back of the faceplate. Take your time with the process as you're breaking the adhesion and it will eventually come loose then pop out. Once obtained, pop it into the new faceplate. [*] Putting it Together We can now put it all together. Wipe the back of the VFD filter and the display with a microfiber cloth, making sure there's no dust. Screw in the front facing circuit board. Once attached, connect the back circuit board with the black plastic back and screw it in. Now, the climate control portion is done. Take the mounting brackets from the Euro radio and attach them to the new faceplate. With these attached, you can install your double DIN. Screw in your hazard lights button. Now what's left is the the Temp stickers. For this, I used a thin blade and peeled them off then glued them back on with some superglue.

That would be me. I'm going to post some more photos later this week and a more involved writeup.

Finally found my front end clunk. My inner tie rods had rotted and were exceptionally clunky. Apparently, moisture had seeped into the boots, causing everything to rust and seize. Replaced them, got the car aligned and everything's good again. Thought it was the steering bushings.

That's good to know. I have a set for my JDM facelift swap.

Ball joints are fine, I did the pitch stop a year ago unless it came loose...? I'm guessing it's the steering rack bushings.

I've got the photos of the catback up. Let me know if you want photos of any specific part of it!

I've been getting home late these past few days. I'll take and post some tomorrow!

Hey people, I've been chasing a front end clunk/knock. It comes and goes but feels like a knocking sensation around the pedal box and you can feel it in the steering wheel as a slight thud. Taken the car to my trusty mechanic a few times with no luck. It's kinda prominent when on an incline or turning. I back into my driveway which is on a very very minor incline. I have a Whiteline sway bar. The end links were rubbing and so those were dealt with. I have new front LCA bushings. I haven't got an idea. Steering wheel bushing maybe? I've also checked to see if the brake pads in my Brembos are sliding around.

Hi, Not sure if I replied to this in the PM but it's all black. I did the Euro facelift interior so it all matches. That said, if you want to vinyl wrap your shift surround black to match everything, 3M 1080 matte black is a good match!

My body is ready. madrig, if you need help with anything, ie parts, let me know!

I don't have many photos taken, or really anything useful beyond the finished product. But none the less, here's what I did. There's a seller on eBay who sells the faceplate, euro/JDM matched in color. So you grab one of those, they make it for both LHD and RHD. If you want the seller, PM me as I'm not sure if it's allowed by the rules to post a direct link. Then you would need a LHD Euro(assuming whoever is reading this has a USDM car) radio. Emphasis on the Euro, reasoning is that the AC and stereo are split into two modules. USDM radios are all integrated. This is the secret sauce. Part number for me was 86201AG460. Now for the gutting, well you need to pretty much unscrew everything. The new eBay piece needs the VFD filter, (which is the fix to the dim AC screen), temp stickers, buttons and so on. The AC portion is split into two circuit boards with an internal connector holding the two together. You would take them out, remove the membrane and plastic button caps for AC, mode, fan speed along with the trim rings for the knobs then place them in the new faceplate. There is a ribbon cable on the front-most AC board that attaches to the radio portion, you can just remove it. I haven't had issues. To get the VFD filter out, you need to take apart the stereo portion as there is a metal plate that blocks it. Pop it out, pushing towards the back. There's a bit of adhesive so you would need to press down on one clip at a time and it will eventually give. Pop that piece into the new faceplate. Bolt everything into the new faceplate using the same screws. At this point, you could put in your hazard button and attach the mounting brackets from the euro radio. Then you're done. You still need the i85 and i88 harnesses though. After writing this all up, I wish I had more photos...

Today I just finished cobbling together my "USDM" double din setup. You can get faceplates for the double din as a single unit from a seller in Russia off eBay. The double din brackets mount right up and then I gutted a dual zone climate radio from Europe. Works perfectly, don't have that famous dim AC display that the JDM double DINs are known for.

Bump, now with a JDM Double DIN kit.

Hmm, some ideas but I don't think I'll relocate to the back. May have to drill in and place a fuse block?

Bump!

Yeah, Ralph makes good stuff. I have his mirror harness. That said, because I did my own wiring for the JDM HIDs, I have to run some taps for the motors for HIDs, mirrors and my DRLs. Ergo, I'm looking at something like this: https://www.bluesea.com/products/5025/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_6_Circuits_with_Negative_Bus_and_Cover Or https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/lv.php?sl=70213

Stupid question for people here: Has anybody had any luck or ideas for running a fuseblock and/or placement? I'm looking for a good way to reliably provide power to some goodies (power folding mirrors, HID levelers and LEDs DRLs).

Bingo. Thanks! Wasn't sure if that plastic piece with the fastener was going over or under the carpet!

Got a quick question, would anybody mind taking a photo of how the front kick plate trim on the passenger side is mounted? It's the plastic trim piece along the door and under the glovebox. I took mine off a year ago and just am getting around to putting it back. Not sure if the bracket that sticks out goes under the carpet or over it. Thanks!

Hi, The motor you have in there is a EJ20Y. The EJ20X is the same thing, just means mated to an automatic transmission. Welcome none the less and enjoy your stay.

Hi everybody, I got some stuff to sell. I need to clean up so if there's any interest for anything, let me know. Prices do not include shipping and I'm more than willing to bundle things together for a discount. Prices are in USD. JDM BL/BP Facelift black A Pillar Interior Trim Black JDM interior trim. Cannot confirm fitment for USDM, includes both sides Sold JDM BL Facelift black C Pillar Interior Trim Black JDM interior trim. Cannot confirm fitment for USDM, includes both sides Sold JDM Black Sunvisors Sold JDM BL Facelift Tail lights Includes wiring harnesses and bulbs. $100 JDM Facelift Honeycomb specB Grille with "blacked out" chrome ring JDM BL/BP Facelift specB Honeycomb grille. The chrome ring has been blacked out with vinyl. Sold Facelift Legacy JDM Grille Removed from sale because it was damaged. Legacy BL/BP facelift grille, looks similar to USDM. $70 Front Sway Bar, USDM Legacy GT/specB $10 Rear Swaybar, USDM Legacy GT/specB $10 Intercooler Shroud, USDM $5 EJ255 Engine Cover $5 Stock Legacy GT Catback Been sitting under my deck for three years. Taken off at 40,000km $70 JDM Double DIN Kit Sold! This double DIN kit was removed from my car as of Sep 20/21. It works as intended. The JDM hazard button is included, the wiring harnesses are not included. You can obtain those from our own svxDC or k00laid83. You will also need a Metra 40-SB10 adapter for the radio antenna.