Beamercub

On 11/20/2023 at 9:07 PM, silverton said:

Only if the fluid coming out is the same temperature as the fluid going in, like if the car and the new fluid stayed in the garage over night before work was performed.  Ideally the fluid level would still be checked via proper procedure, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do right?

Along with the proper temperature, what about the CVT relearn that has to be done with the higher end diagnostic computers?   

If OP was able to measure the amount of fluid that came out, can't the OP just add that amount and be done?

Yikes, those RPM's do seem a bit HIGH.  

I really appreciate the advice!  I hadn't thought about a winter blend of fuel being an issue..  It does seem that this issue appears around this time of year...   I am religious about getting gas from the same place, I was in a pinch..  Another reason, why I could never have an all electric car..  I would suffer from range anxiety.  I just went out and OBD said no codes.  I'm going to go back to my trusted gas station ( getting 93 this time ) and I will try a bottle of Techron.

Another thing I noticed, I'm getting about 3mpg less with this past fill-up.

I'm also going to replace the battery.  It has been getting down to 35f at night around here and when I start the car in the morning it's cranking very slow..  Better to be pro-active, eh?

I'll circle back in a couple days..

What might you suggest?  

Reality check?  Seriously?

When this happens, in the past the remedy has been coil replacement..  All 3 times coil packs were replaced under warranty.  Second time around the spark plugs were replaced.  Couple things, with the weather change I have noticed the car starting ( turning over ) very slow - 2 year old battery..  I also recently got gas at a gas station I don't go to - could it be bad gas?   I was thinking of pro-actively replacing the battery and I added a bottle of HEET to the tank..   Problem seemed to be less frequent with the addition of HEET.  Hooked it up to code reader and no codes are being reported.  

I remember a tech telling me once that the common issue with the 3.6R is cylinder 5 ( coil )..   Due to it's location and exposure..   I haven't tackled the coils myself to date...     Anyone else have a similar issue>?  

Question for you:  Where are you noticing the burnt oil smell?   In the vehicle or outside the vehicle and if outside the vehicle, is the vehicle running while you are smelling the burnt oil?  Exhaust smell?  I am currently having an issue with my lower oil pan, it is a small leak that i do notice on the ground.  I'm not sure where on the lower oil pan it is leaking, I do know it is from corrosion.  This is the 3rd oil leak that I have had.  Both times prior it was leaking from the crank seal/ cvt housing.  It was repaired both times under warranty.  As for the lower oil pan, I have purchased the lower oil pan, just gotta actually get under there and replace it..   I'm not sure if the "gasket" could be an issue, because there is no gasket on the lower oil pan, it's a grey apoxy called  "Threebond 1217H".   Not just ordinary RTV.

Question:  Where (exactly) did you notice it?  

-When you found/ noticed it is it possible it landed in that spot or possible with driving it moved?

-Why did you notice it?  Just caught ur eye or were you doing any cleaning or maintenance?

Update, so...  Oil pan is ordered along with the TB1217H liquid gasket and oil pan cutter tool...   What about the bolts?  The current bolts are horribly rusty, what bolts do I replace with?  Should I go to Subaru Parts for the replacement bolts or is this something I could order online?  I haven't been able to locate a replacement size as of yet..  Appreciate any insight, thanks.

Thanks for the info...   I don't even want to think about the upper oil pan..  Looks like a hot mess to get off.

I'll try and get a pic of the pan and bolts..  It's bad..   Also the curved tube coming out the side above the oil pan is pretty bad..  I think they are cooler lines?   

Hello..  My 15 3.6R has a very slow oil leak that is coming from a very rusty oil pan lower.  Seems easy enough to remove and replace.  I am worried about the bolts as they are horribly rusty as well..   -What do I do when the bolts snap off?  Any suggestions on how to prevent these bolts snapping off?  

I have no clue what type of lights are in this car for the headlights?   I'm certain that they are not halogen.  Is replacing these "bulbs" as easy as doing something like H4 on a Honda Civic or is this process more involved?   I'm pretty sure the lights are specifically something different than the non limited models..   Because the 3.6R Limited, the lights seemed to have a purple hue to them?     

I plan on replacing them as a pair..   Wanting something brighter than stock...  Any recommendations?

Thanks much.

Run.  I have the same exact car.  Run.  

I would suggest to look for a similar aged Lexus...  Just say NO.

On 1/31/2023 at 2:09 PM, Tom Pearl said:

Not sure what you mean by torque steer issue but yes the more I accelerate the more pronounced the pull becomes. At low speeds its hardly noticeable and over 65ish its so pronounced I have to keep a hand on the wheel and turn a little to the left every few seconds to stay in my lane. But overall its a pretty slight and steady pull. I almost wouldn't even call it a "pull" ... Its more like a steady drift to the right. Feels almost like the right side of the car is lagging behind the left like the car had a stroke or something lol. Or the front axle is at a slight angle instead of level/ perfectly perpendicular with the driveshaft.

Again, I sense ur frustration.  I have almost lost my mind dealing with handling issues of my car.  I'll go thru the list of things I have done to make my car handle "better".      

- Check wheel bearings  ( All of mine have been replaced by now - first bearing replaced at 7k miles )  @ 114k currently

-  Rear differential was replaced at 21k miles.  ( felt like car was having a stroke on the highway )

- RSB ( Rear sway bar upgrade )

*Being that you bought the car used in 22'  take a peek back in the history of posts on here and you might get some relief.

Alot of owners had similar problems with handling issues with the Legacy, but that was years ago..  Most have probally moved on from the car by now.   

My car still isn't completely right..   I have a 2015 and my saving grace is that lane keep assist wasn't offered until 2016

***  How about new tires**   ?

Is it a torque steer issue?  Does it pull to the right while you are accelerating or when ever you let go of the wheel?  

I can sense ur frustration..  To keep ur sanity how about rotating ur tires urself?  Put the back tires on the front switching sides and put the front tires on the back keeping them on the same sides ..   So rear right put on left fron and rear left put on right front and move front wheel to back keeping them on the sides they already are..  Thats my best suggestion..

How about taking the wheel off and centering it?  Done.

It could also be off center if the ring connector has been replaced and when putting the steering wheel back on they didn't line it up properly.  The ring connector is commonly replaced when the horn stops working.  

Is it just me?   I have thought it might be a head gasket at one point because it was a heck lot of cloudage around me...   I haven't noticed if other Legacy's are producing the same volume... I do notice that some makes produce nothing visible..  Usually something like a Honda CRV or random Toyota..  And then there is me and i literally look like Sanford and Son or something.  Could it be something to do with the boxer engine and the exhaust being at a higher temperature?   Or could being the H6 model produce more volume ?   Anyone else notice anything similar?   

I think the common ground connection is something I should check...   Any idea where on the engine block it is located?

I noticed yesterday a slight stumble upon acceleration with the RPM's just under 20,000 RpM = around 65-70MPH...   And while I had it on cruise control, I could feel the hesitation and actually see the needle fluttering around the 16,000 RpM point..  Every time this has happend in the past, it has led to a misfire with flashing check engine coil packs being replaced..  The first 2 times it threw codes..   I'm not remembering right now what they were, but it was coil specific...   First time it happend they only replaced 1 coil, #6 I believe..   The second time it happend they pushed it off on me saying I needed a tune up..   Even with gold plus, I paid for spark plugs and labor they covered the coils, all 6.  Third time was right after passenger ball joint was replaced..  With no check engine light or codes, car had a horrible misfire and to fix, they replaced spark plugs and all 6 coils at no cost..  - Funny bit was, they actually said it was either a known bad batch of coils or that they just didn't look right.    So, this being the 4th time, I'm trying my best to be proactive.  Also now that i'm at 113k no more warranty fun time.  I'm thinking about either swapping coils out with #6   or just replacing it and going from there..  Any thoughts?    - I plan on seeing if there are any current codes tomorrow..    Any insight is appreciated, thanks much.

I had to disconnect my battery while replacing the roll conntector ( horn not working)  When I attempted to get a state inspection sticker, the car failed for emissions because the battery had been disconnected..  My question is, how long or how many miles / drive cycles need to be done before the OBD will register for emissions...    Any insight is appreciated..

Mission completed.  I contacted SOA and was able to get a goodwill credit for service and or parts, amount $350 !!     I used that for the $145 roll connector and replaced it myself !   The job was easier than it appeared.    Thank you for the help, I appreciate it.

I'm trying to find the instructions on removing the steering wheel / screw/ tab locations...    Any detailed info on how to remove certain tabs...  Where would one find the technical remove and replace instructions?

I'm attempting to replace the roll connector behind the steering wheel.   Besides youtube videos i'm having a hard time

finding the actual procedure....    Fingers crossed that someone can help in anyway....   I miss my horn!

I already have the part, i just really want this to do as smoothly as possible...    

Hey guys...  The horn is just wonky..  Subaru thinks it could be the "clock spring" ?    As for the gas range, I dunno what is going on.   I have run out of gas a couple times because of it...  I just don't let it go below half a tank at this point..  

2015 3.6R