Beamercub

Solved problem.  Found severed wire in the area where the wires go from the body into the trunk lid..  Repaired problem solved.

6 hours ago, ammcinnis said:

The indicator light assembly consists of an LED soldered to a small printed-circuit board, plus an optical lens/diffuser to distribute the light. The most common failure mode seems to be cracks developing in one or more solder joints on the PCB. Over on the Outback forum, several owners have reported successful repair by simply reflowing the solder joints using a low-wattage, fine-tipped soldering iron. (A steady hand is also required; blacksmiths need not apply.) YMMV.

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/gear-shift-indicator-light-out.473017/page-5#post-6452992

A crack is visible at the lower left of the image below:

My question now is: how involved is it to get to that circuit board.  I assume the whole consol and armrest needs to be removed...    

6 hours ago, silverton said:

They're tied into the other marker lights so I imagine the problem is isolated to the trunk lid if those are still working.

Hmmm.  Both of the rear side marker lights are out as well..  I haven't tried replacing those yet, they have been out for awhile....     Actually the only marker light that is working at the moment is drivers side front.    To be continued....

Regarding this TSB..  Been there done that.  Twice.  

Next on my list is replacing the lower oil pan..  Rusting away.

On the subject...  The shift indicator lights haven't worked in my car for a couple years.  Started with the M-D flickering and then they all went out.  I didn't know they were replaceable?   I had thought it to be an electrical issue?

On 4/3/2024 at 9:15 AM, CBrown said:

So, I have a 2019 Legacy 3.6R limited.  I have had troubles with the lights (P R N D/S) on my shifter console.  I just replaced them for the second time.  I do not remember what color the lights were when I bought the car, but I do know that my second set were red (which matches most of the other interior display lights in the car).  The new lights that they used to replace the red lights are white.  I have asked the dealer a couple times to confirm that white is correct, and they insist that they should be white.  They say that the previous replacement was wrong.  Just based on the other lights on the interior, that seems a little sketchy.  

Can anyone confirm the color of the lights on their shift console?  Thank you very much.

The lights are red.  Not white.

Noticed license plate bulbs were out.  Replaced them, still not working.  Tested sockets with meter, and nada.  I'm thinking fuses would be a good place to start?  Anyone have any insight?   

On 4/19/2024 at 8:58 PM, waldguy said:

nicely done.  Just curious, did you get an OEM or what for a starter?  Cost?

Hey there...   Yes I went with the OEM Denso starter.  I ordered it reman from Rock Auto.  Out the door with shipping it cost $168 and that included $51 core!   Not bad at all.  My local dealership quoted me $ 355 for the starter.   I did find it cheaper on Subaru.oempartsonline.com for $238.  Both of those are with no core option.

I ended up replacing the starter.  Problem solved.  I put a couple of the Tom blocks in the engine bay, fingers crossed.

Went to the car wash,  turned engine off while cleaning interior..  When attempting to start car got slow crank and then nothing.  Tried jump starting, got nothing.  Battery was showing 12.30 volts..  Upon inspection when I touched the wire going from the Solenoid to the Starter it crumbled and severed.  I was shocked with the condition of the wire!   I don't know how the car had been starting before with such a poor connection!  I came here looking for insight on how to repair?  After researching I have located the part I would need, problem is I can't seem to find it available for a 2015 Legacy 3.6R .  Part is the " Brush holder assembly ".  It appears to be available for the 4th generation but not the 5th or 6th?   

Thanks for checking out my post.  

Ok.  I got a new subaru coil today and went to replace it and I can't get the bolt off?!  And the clip that attaches to the coil appears to have melted !   Called subaru and asked if I could order a new clip and repin it..  They replied with NO.  That i would need a whole new harness?   Does anyone know where I can order a replacement clip that I can repin?  I'm really at a loss for getting the darn bolt out..  It just won't move..  Thought about letting it warm up and then trying to get it out?  Any help/ suggestions please..   Attached a pic of the melted connector..  

I just noticed on RockAuto that they sell just the Boot and spring ?  Is that a thing?  Curious if anyone else has just replaced the Boot and spring and kept the original coil?

It sounds to me like something is bent somewhere.  Especially after being rear ended at some point:/"?

BaH-hum-Bug.

2 hours ago, silverton said:

chains are generally good for the life of the engine.  if you regularly have hard tapping noise that subsides real quick from the engine on cold start you may need guides/tensioners, otherwise... that's the point of a chain, to not worry about it.

Thank you for the insight.  I really appreciate it.  I guess thats why I haven't heard anything about the timing chains.  

hmm.  Either you are being direct or sarcastic.  Thanks for the info.

Yes, the RPM's are wrong. Too many OOO -0000.

Timing chain...  A topic i haven't heard much about?  As with lifetime CVT fluid, what about the timing chain?  Tensioner?  Any insight is appreciated.

3 minutes ago, silverton said:

 

The only information needed via scantool for a drain and fill is CVT temperature, a relearn is not necessary.

 

Hmmm, got me thinking of other ways to get the temperature?  Infrared?  

I appreciate the quick response..  The rear pads are easy enough to rewind with a caliper tool....  I can't even wrap my head around being able to do it with the push of a button..   My first project would be the CVT drain and fill and use the diagnostic tool for the CVT re-Learn...   And to get the proper temps, etc...  I've got CVT on the brain, lol.    Brain fart, but there is a 6spd manual of the legacy sold in Canada...   Frankenstein 3.6 with a manual transmission and supercharger?  Right?

Reaching the point where a good scan tool would take me to the next level..  They are very expensive.  I was just curious if there was any type of "hack" in the area?   I figured by this point a creative solution via laptop was out there somewhere?

No, it's not normal.  My 2015 had the front left wheel bearing replace at only 16k miles and rear diff was replaced at 21k.  I'm at 122k miles now and all wheel bearing have been replaced.   My passenger rear wheel bearing is needing replacement soon as well.  Front shocks have been replaced, passenger front ball joint, all bushings front and rear replaced..  Doing the bearings is easier now with the cartridge design bolt on/off..   Doing pressed in wheel bearings can be a pain and almost impossible without a press.  The front end on the 6th gen has always seemed wonky to me, even more so in the 3.6R.  I miss having a good old hydraulic steering sytem.

1 hour ago, silverton said:

A relearn is not necessary with fluid replacement.

Seriously?   Then why do they do it?