Darth SpecB

I know this has been covered before but I have not seen any recent postings on the quality of aftermarket CV axles. I know it's a good idea to replace both sides. I am currently having clicking and popping at low speeds while making a sharp turn. It's coming from the driver side which sucks because I just rebooted and regreased the passenger side. My question is, are duralast CV axles from autozone trash? Or worth the buy? 170$ish for both. Or should I just spend 400+ on reman CV axles? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Where are you located? The ej20 turbo has dual variable valve control, it will require the ECU and immobilizer from the donor vehicle. This question has been answered many times, so try Google search legacy gt turbo swap etc. Most members will say it's not worth swapping to a turbo motor unless you run an aftermarket ecu. Its much cheaper to buy a legacy gt than to convert it to turbo. That is of course assuming you dont already have all the parts you need. If you did, then you wouldn't be asking. Anything is possible with time and money, decide if it's worth it to you. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

You can apply a thin layer where manual says. Or you can go all around the gasket. Both will work. Dont forget half moon seals. Also check that the oil feed port and the metal line is not leaking. The metal lines are known for cracking and is often overlooked. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I doubt an intake would fit on top of the engine. Besides there's a lot of heat soak in that area so the fender area is your best bet. I believe someone said you will need an lgt front cross member, and lgt driveshaft for rear diff. There is someone I think his name is code who did an sti drive train swap on his lgt. Look up that thread for much info. And good luck, I'm looking forward to this! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

King performance main and rod bearings are pretty good. Check them out Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Could so much damage happen in 2 miles? My experience says yes because this exact same thing happened to me. And 600 miles after slapping a new turbo on, boom! There went my connecting rod bearings, cam journals, orifices, everything! But hey there are some people who get extremely lucky... Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Bought the car with 119k MILES. Currently at 123k. 3k on the rebuilt motor! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

LMAO!! I couldn't help but laugh at this, because it's soo true! Good work! I would have used a wooden dowel to knock out the wrist pins because you can risk scoring the rod bushings. I would double check them to see if they are good if you plan on reusing those rods. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

You can get away with around 500$ of machine shop work if you do the hone yourself. I bought a flex hone for my cylinders. However your walls look a bit worse than mine. I believe line hone is for crank journals. Not exactly necessary unless your pushing high rpms, or big hp. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

It is possible they are out of round but you can measure that with a bore gauge. Machine shop is more than capable. Also if they are marked size B pistons. You can use oem size A pistons since they are a little bit bigger. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

You would think that this leak would throw a code? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

I dislike how the red ring around speedometer disappears at the bottom (manual transmission only) I almost cried when I thought I would have to pull the dash apart to replace the bulb or even have to get a new cluster. Also the common rod knock and catastrophic turbo failure. I drove my car for a week after I bought it until it blew up. I wish the rear seats were heated. And that we had cup holders in the doors or storage space. And my Navi is pretty much useless, wish it was a boost, oil gauge or even a cubby. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Another method you can try to get them off is a bolt extractor. It worked great for me. Of course you would need new bolts if you go this route. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Will this headlight (Liberty/JDM) http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170106/6c3305ba0100036cf45de18a8d7971d5.jpg Fit In my car? (USDM) http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170106/2a0649daa0ed9bf517b7881da6a748b2.jpg They look absolutely the same in size, but it is really hard to tell from pictures, and from reading around I hear mixed opinions. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Interesting, I am looking to do the same thing. I have heard you need to Rev up and engine break in order to seat the new rings to the new hone. The only problem is that I have no clue how the car is tuned atm. It could possibly be stage 2 because when I bought the car I received dyno sheets at 250whp. A stock tune could have been applied before the sale as well which would be detrimental considering I have an intake and turbo back. I don't see a way to be revving my engine without boost since it kicks in around 2500 rpm. I'm not meaning to thread jack just looking for info. Great job on the build btw! One of my inspirations! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Was a break in tune necessary? If so was it done yourself? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk