A_A_ron

Nice

Setting it up that way looks to be pretty cheap compared to cobbs 225 dollar kit. I was worried about spending a good chunk of change to verify that I have a fuel pressure issue only to have to spend more.

Yah it says in the manual to use 87, or better. This is why I'm curious as far as if I could harm my 2.5 with premium gas. I wouldn't think it would do anything bad...

You won't harm anything. You also won't notice a difference unless your car has been running kind of like crap due to oil from the PCV into your intake.

My tuner has asked me to confirm fuel pressure is rising with boost at a 1 to 1 ratio. I'm assuming I will end up having to install my fpr and hardwire my fuel pump.

Has anyone done this to their GT and what did your setup look like?

burn up - Your oil level will go down as some of the oil is betting burned off your piston walls and in your turbo journal bearing. A little is okay, think about 1 quart low every oil change. A lot is bad, like 1 quart every 1000 miles. For reference 1 quart on your oil dipstick is about the difference between just above low and just below full.

I use Subaru oem synthetic. There are other more expensive oils that some people will recommend. As long as you are changing your oil every 3750 or less you should be good.

I think your build date and vin should point to the first version of the bolt which would be the one without the restriction. No need to replace this as it's not doing anything to harm your engine or turbo.

There is one banjo bolt with a filter for each right and left AVCS. These shouldn't need attention unless you have had a number of burn ups or long oil changes. Depending on your car manufacture date there might be a banjo bolt in the turbo oil feed line that has a restricter but it's not a filter and won't clog unless there a chunk large enough to mess up your journal bearing too.

Given the labor involved getting to some of these bolts I wouldn't worry about it unless you are suspicious of engine abuse in the past. How many miles on your car? Do you have the VIN or manufacturer date?

danger to manifold and ecu

This is interesting. I'm putting on some popcorn.

I JB welded my OEM intercooler with two coats all around the seams and it held 18psi fine. Cheapest option and it works.

Seems like the best bang for buck until I do the full charge pipe and intercooler upgrade. What JB weld did you use?

It totally is - you get what you pay for. That said, it's probably better than stock and not likely to blow end tanks. Even if it just takes longer to heat soak because of increased volume, it's a compelling choice at that price.

 

If you're interested, I have an old RacerX TMIC sitting in my closet that I'd send to you for cheap. I bought it from Rutchard a few years ago. It's well used, but functional.

You make a good point about it probably being better than stock especially given that it is cheaper than what Subaru parts department will sell you.

There is a cheap option on ebay I believe in the $250 range, well worth it. But if memory serves the bulletproof option was an aluminum channel that bolted all the way around the intercooler to plastic tank seam to keep it from being able to expand. It wouldn't be hard to replicate with some aluminum plate from home depot or lowes.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bulletproof-tmic-mod-lgt-08-wrx-158870.html

I think I'm going to have to epoxy it for this weekend but I will look into the ebay one. I can't help but feel like it's a Chinese knock off of the grimmspeed one.

Does anyone know where the post about making the OEM TMIC bullet proof is? I remember seeing a pretty detailed post about I think epoxying the seams but I wanted to read through it before I dive in. I know I should but a new one but I don't have 1000 bucks lying around and I would rather not spend a few hundred on an OEM one.

Thanks

Can this be rebuilt in this case and this a common thing for cylinder #4 to be fried?

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2821336

Yes, it is very common. Even though the ringland piston design was improved at some point I believe the issues still lies with the over heated cylinder.

Did a compression test on #4, 0 psi. This is where I had to call it a night.

It's fried. Yes but it's a little pricey. You can send off the block to a few different Subaru shops around the country and they can re-sleeve it. You other option is to find a used EJ25 and pop it in. You probably only need a short block if your heads aren't toast but given the cam issues it might be safe to get a long block.

IAG puts together EJ motors all day long and they will go right in great but you are paying a premium for upgraded parts and the brand new block.

Read this entire thread. The early posts are doubtful but the more you read the more they start to understand why the mod was made.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2882734

The EJ has fundamental flaw with how the coolant flows through the left hand head and some say the knock sensor location exacerbates this. If you find pictures of blown EJs you'll notice a trend that cylinder 4 is the one the is messed up or looks the worst.

IAG short block. This will be bullet proof unless you go big turbo.

https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-Stage-1-2-5L-Subaru-Short-Block-WRX-STI-LGT-p/iag-eng-1002.htm

Cylinder 4 is the cylinder on the rear drivers side closest to you when you are driving the car. If you are having significant misfire on this cylinder it's probably because it got cooked. There's a guy in my town who has a 2010 LGT and when he took it apart cylinder 4 was toast.

Unless it's a coil pack I would assume it's the standard EJ problem. Do a leak test and you'll know for sure if your short block is shot.

Given the two error codes you listed and the fact your AVCs is showing different on right vs left you might have a cam position sensor issue or messed up timing.

Which bolts? The steering wheel nut or ones holding on the airbag/horn assembly?

 

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Air bag horn assembly