Das Ninjabot

Pulled the motor to diagnose a collapsed lifter and a bad rear main seal. Seal looks dry so I need to figure out where it's coming from. Unfortunately, the clutch disk slipped out of my hand and hit the ground. There is a small chip off of the edge of the clutch. I'm not sure if I need to replace or if it will be ok. Thoughts?

Finally got around to an oil change, it didn't look horrible, but there was certainly some particulate on the magnetic plug. I'm fairly sure its from a bad lifter slapping a cam lobe. I'm not terribly concerned as I'll be swapping the heads soon enough when I pull the motor for a new rear main.

Replaced the alternator when it started shading out on me on the drive back from picking up some used parts (rear shock brace, ladder brace, and new Whiteline rear endlinks, all for $80!). 46 minutes including the trip to the store for the warranty exchange, not a bad swap.

Oh I never said that I didn't get a CEL! I taken the obd port connection out of the clips on the dash and have it tucked in behind the dash with the reader constantly plugged in. I run the torque app most of the time when I'm driving. Eventually I'll throw an old phone in there full time just for the display. I typically get two misfire codes at a time (either 1&2 or 3&4). Typically throws the codes when I'm cruising at a constant rpm for awhile on the highway. The only time I see any real negative effects are coming to idle after pushing the clutch in and letting the revs drop when coming to a stop. It dips a bit low and then rebounds to about 740 rpm. I can't say I'd do the combo again, but I'm not going to change it now, like how quickly it does rev up and the driveline feel with the flywheel is great.

I had a slipping alternator belt that was starting to squeal on startup. I thought the bolt was stripping out so I stopped at home depot to get a new bolt and install it. Turns out the body of the alternator was stripped out and wouldn't take a new bolt. Ended up putting a longer bolt through the tensioner with a lock-nut on the back end. Takes an extra step to adjust the belt tension, but at least it works. The alternator is a reman unit that I got from Rock Auto about a year ago. I'm wondering if the unbalanced nature of the motor with a lightweight flywheel and lightweight crank pulley vibrated the bolt loose where the tension stretched the threads in the alternator to the point of stripping out. Either that or I over tightened the bolt upon installation.

Finally got the WRX seats installed, they sit quite a bit higher but I do like the bolsters. I'm sure I'll get used to the new seating position relative to the pedals and the shifter, but it feels a little like driving a truck again. Also got a new master switch installed and got the little triangle tweeters I pulled from an Outback wagon installed on the doors.

Installed a Kartboy short throw shifter and new shifter boot from Redline. The throw is really nice, but it is like shifting through peanut butter. It does not seem to be binding, but it is really tight.

I replaced the alternator on the side of the road after the light popped on and I noticed I was only putting out 7 volts. Thankfully I made it to the parts store and they had a reman unit in stock. Took 16 minutes and I had my core charge back in my account. Not exactly what I wanted to do on my lunch break, but I still made it back to the office in time. All is good and now I'm onto the water pump on the girlfriends Saab (I'd much rather burn the car down).

Poosh, what rims are those? They look fantastic!

Looks great! How did the holes work out? Did your confidence beer help or hurt?

Brighton, that grill on your 2nd gen is fantastic, where did you get it?

Nice score! Going to clean it up and flip it or add to the stable?

Good looking install there!

Awesome, thanks for the info, I've got a lifter tick and I was worried that pulling the engine would be the easiest way to get at this. Not sure I believe you that there is "plenty" of room, but I believe there is enough!

Say Brighton, when you had the lifter tick did you actually attack that problem with the engine installed?

I actually just pulled mine and rebuilt/reinstalled it between Jan and now so I'm right there with you! I'm sure the next time I pull the motor I can have it done in about an hour.

Can confirm that the above instructions make this a quick and painless process. Take lots of pictures from every conceivable angle, you'll want them for later.

My '98 GT sedan rolled over to 98,8xx before the headgasket blew and it took up temporary residence in my garage.

Gotcha, we've got it around here, kinda curious to know if the stock ecu will adapt to it or if a new brain is needed. Did you swap injectors too or just lines?

Hey Brighton, did you realize any performance gains from your e85 swap? Did you just do injectors and lines or was there more? I'm considering it since I have everything apart.