Volta55

I have been avoiding normal D mode ( I have an auto ) and even sport mode sometimes; I have been driving in nothing but semi-manual mode and i do not have the water hammer effect.

but when I do it stumbles.

I would love to buy your kit, @m_sprank , but I do not have a tune.

installed the hitch.. stoked for the riding season!

Does it get worse when you turn a particular direction?

Could be the axle. Replaced already? Reman or new? Some reman axles are known to have hum/vibration issues.

 

Turn your steering wheel at higher speeds and there should be a change in both noise and intensity... either a lack of, or increase in, both. If no change, I'd suspect other than wheel bearing, absent a physical evaluation with the wheel off the ground.

^ will try this out, thanks ^

when looking under the car I have these axles. the only reason why i think they are the same is because of the green "can" that is on the axle

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachments/problems-maintenance/215681d1446477290-oem-reman-axles-more-axle-talk-again-004-medium-.jpg

I think my front right wheel bearing is going

Im a big stickler for new noises, and there is a low/medium hum going around 60/70mph

I can feel vibration that matches the hum on the steering wheel and brake pedals

this seems like a straight forward install.. just need to confirm if it is def a wheel bearing

An update on my Tuning Alliance Stage 2 Tune:

 

From the mouth of my better half, "This is how this car should have came from the factory.".

 

I installed invidia up\down pipes, and a grimspeed crosspipe, I was afraid the crosspipe would get too hot around the oil filter so I engineered a heat shield from the OEM one.

 

Took me the better part of a day working by myself, mostly because of little things like trimming the turbo heatshield, making the crosspipe shield, and making sure I got every bolt torqued correctly. (I'm a bit OCD and paranoid when it comes to my cars).

 

I couldn't help but laugh as my father watched me hook up the test connectors and proceed to flash the ecu, as he asked "have you done this before?"

 

"Welp, I've read but never written".

(He is from the muscle car generation, so anything past bolt ons and engine mods are foreign to him, pun intended)

 

So the flash went flawless, I was more nervous for those two minutes than the entire days work. Unplugged test connectors, said a short prayer,and turned the key.

 

I could hear the difference immediately.

 

Guys, just let me say, that was the best $200 I have ever spent on a car.

 

I turned my logger on, all looked well, so I proceeded to make my 2hour voyage home, keeping the revs low, as hard as that was.

 

 

Flawless, that is the word.

I've driven this same 2hr drive 100 times, and could point out every hill\bump\curve where the car would stumble like it wasn't programmed right.

 

Not now.

 

i can FINALLY leave this car in D and forget about what rpm range I'm in, I can forget about being afraid my car will bog at the wrong time.

 

If you buy an 05\06 LGT, take my advice, buy the down\uppipes, get Mike to send you a tune, and skip the hassle of being upset at the factory tune.

 

I took a short drive earlier, can hear the most beautiful spooling sound by 2000rpm.

 

I fkkn love my TA tune, and you will too.

I think this is the post i needed to read

being a noob and having the infamous fourth generation stumble problem, I have a feeling that wiping the factory tune is the only option. and reading these fantastic reviews about TA made me feel much more comfortable.

once I get an after market up-pipe and down-pipe installed, I will be contacting TA again.

I have a hunch that's correlation, not causation. See how long it takes for the stumble to come back...

aaaand it lasted not even a day

staying in "manual" mode until i can figure this bullshit out

few things I am noticing

i drove about 300 miles in "manual mode" for shits and giggles (I have a 5EAT) shifting at around 4/ 4.5K

After putting it back into normal auto or sport auto mode, I am currently not getting any studder in the low rpm range.

We have seen many different versions of the "stumble". We have come across many different fixes.

 

For some it is a slight vacuum leak. Post turbo.

 

For some it is a dirty MAF.

 

For some it is a dirty or faulty TPS. In older cable TB cars it was the idle air solenoid.

 

For some it is a front (A/F) O2 sensor that is reading off.

 

For some it is a leaking BPV (leaking to atmosphere).

 

It can be a total mystery when combined with 5EAT's too.

going to try this as well... thankyou

I might as well sub myself to this thread, although I have been advised through Max Capacity and Tuning Alliance.

05 LGT auto bought 2 weeks ago

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TYPE OF STUTTER/STUMBLE

Steady throttle/Increasing throttle/Both: 20-35mph in the 2-3K RPM range ( like following a slow-poke going up a hill ) and if i downshift to get out of the studder, it jumps into 2nd and takes off like a rocket

MODS

Intake: K&N Panel filter

Exhaust: stock

Fuel: Stock fueling, 93 octane

Turbo: stock

Engine Management: stock

Tuner and revision of tune(if you don't mind): none

MAINTENANCE

Sensors changed: going to clean MAF

Plugs changed: none

Coil Packs changed: none

OTHER SYMPTOMS

Check Engine Light: none

Etc: slight shaking/vibration at a dead stop with foot on brake ( maybe its just a Subaru thing, my dads 03 legacy does the same )

And 18 MPG combined highway/city :/ ( even on a long 2.5 hour drive up to the catskills and back, with no bike roof or anything on roof, got a max MPG of 22 )

RESULTS

What has and hasn't worked for you: all random. today driving from apartment to family lunch it did not do it at all ( merging onto highway, etc ) I am at a 1/4 tank with 93 octane ( was much worse a couple days ago with more fuel )

If something worked, how long has it been working for: using the auto/manual option to keep rpms at or higher than 3K to avoid the "studder range" to get up hills. once I am moving at highway speeds, all is well.

I understand I need a full day of looking over and under the motor and checking out the fuel delivery and spark delivery systems, but it just confuses me that sometimes it drives just fine, which makes me feel like its a ECU problem.

I am considering getting aftermarket UP and DP pipes and having my ECU tuned my Tuning Alliance, but before i spend that money I want to see if i can fix this myself ( is that even possible? )